CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Snake Bedding Snake Habitat Tips & Tricks
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Housing For Your Pet Snake

Learning how to care for your first snake is a rewarding experience, and one that is required if you want to ensure your snake’s health and well-being. Before bringing a snake into your house, think about how big it will get and what size cage it would need for its environment.

Everything else will be a lot easier if you have the correct cage for your snake. The improper cage, on the other hand, might become a problem, allowing your pet to escape or making it unduly tough to govern his environment.

Cage Environment

Most snakes may be divided into three groups based on their cage size. Garter and grass snakes may be housed in a 10 gallon or 20 gallon aquarium with ease. In 30-55 gallon tanks, king snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes, gopher snakes, and other colubrids will thrive. It’s a different storey with boa constrictors and pythons. Adult boas and pythons often range in length from 18 inches to 32 feet. Some of them are above 500 pounds. Custom cages are required for these huge creatures. Consider making your own cage out of plywood or melamine if you are skilled in the industrial arts. Custom cages and kits are widely available if you don’t want to build your snake’s habitat.

Types Of Vivarium

Wooden Vivariums

Wooden vivariums are among the most affordable and dependable cages for snakes. They usually come in a variety of “standard” sizes, either flat-packed or pre-built. Buying a flat-pack version is frequently advantageous for anybody with some basic DIY abilities, since they are straightforward to assemble yet are often easier to move flat, as well as being cheaper.

Advantages

  • Most specialist reptile stores have wooden vivariums on hand.
  • They’re sturdy, adaptable, and fairly priced, and they look great if you pick a style that matches the rest of your furniture.
  • Drilling holes for electrics like heaters and lighting is normally quite straightforward with wooden vivariums, and the wooden construction also means that they maintain their heat effectively.
  • If you reside in a colder climate, this is perfect since you will be able to keep your snake warmer with less heating.

Disadvantages

  • Wooden vivariums are often heavy, making transportation difficult.
  • Ventilation in wooden vivariums might be a problem. Snakes enjoy fresh air and can become ill if they are deprived of it. Choose a wooden snake viv that has air holes if you want to keep your snake alive.
  • If left too wet, wooden vivariums can distort and decay. This implies that any water spilled within the cage should be soaked up as quickly as possible so that it does not seep into the wood and cause difficulties. Because most snakes prefer a drier environment, this is unlikely to be an issue for lizard owners.

Plastic Vivariums

While wooden vivariums are still the most prevalent type of snake housing, there are a growing number of plastic vivariums on the market. It should be emphasised that if you want to investigate this option, you should attempt to find one that is especially intended for snakes rather than any other type of pet. The ventilation openings will be kept tiny to prevent escape, and the overall proportions will be long and low, allowing your snake to roam around freely.

Advantages

  • Plastic vivariums are lighter and stronger than wooden cages, making them much easier to move about. You won’t need a substantial stand, table, or cabinet to put them on either.
  • Because of their ease of cleaning, plastic vivariums are sanitary. The germs and parasites may be readily removed from the moulded plastic vivariums using a towel and reptile-safe cleaning spray. In contrast, parasites or germs can persist in the seams between the panels in hardwood vivariums.

Disadvantages

  • Fitting electrics to a polyethylene tank is difficult. This is because, depending on the style you choose, you may need to either drill holes for electrical lines to poke through or remove plugs from your heaters and lights so that the cables may be carefully fed through the pre-drilled holes.
  • Plastic vivariums can be much more costly than wooden vivariums of comparable size. Before deciding whether the advantages of a plastic vivarium are worth the extra cost, compare costs carefully.

Glass Vivariums

Specially built glass vivariums for reptiles have become increasingly popular in recent years. These tanks are usually made entirely of glass, with two hinged doors at the front for easy access. These doors can save time and effort by removing the need to raise lids or move glass panels for normal maintenance and feeding. This can also mean that you can stack glass vivariums on top of one another in some designs, allowing for an extremely space-efficient method to keep your snakes.

Advantages

  • The most elegant and professional-looking kind of housing is glass vivariums. They not only look good, but they also give outstanding visibility. An all-glass vivarium, unlike most wooden or plastic vivariums, has glass viewing windows on the front that offer vision from all sides.
  • This not only gives you a unique perspective of your pet, but it also allows you to keep an eye on it and do health checks without having to take it out.

Disadvantages

  • Glass vivariums are heavy and can break if dropped or bumped while being transported. If you reside in a cold region, their all-glass structure might make it difficult to keep them warm in the winter; after all, heat can readily move through the glass surface.
  • Electrics can be a problem to install in glass vivariums for snakes; after all, one can barely drill a hole in the side to put an electric wire through.

Converted Glass Tanks

A converted glass aquarium is one last form of snake vivarium that is still encountered in the pet trade from time to time. Essentially, an unwanted fish tank may be used, and a reptile-safe lid can be purchased to cover the top and keep it secure. Although many individuals abandon the notion over time owing to impracticalities, this is typically a very cost-effective approach to keep snakes in captivity.

Advantages

  • Converting a glass tank is a simple process. Even in locations where there are few reptile stores, the majority of individuals will be able to obtain an aquarium. Even better, purchasing a used cage may save you a lot of money and provide you with a perfect cage for a low cost.
  • A proper cover must be constructed. These may usually be ordered at a reasonable price on the internet.

Disadvantages

  • Since converting a glass tank is so difficult, you’ll want to think about where you’ll put your vivarium. However, this is a minor flaw that is usually obscured by the two greater difficulties at hand.
  • Electrics might be tricky to install in all-glass aquariums like this one for snakes.
  • If you want to utilise an old aquarium as a reptile cage, you’ll have to be creative.
  • These vivariums from above are inconvenient to use. Because you’ll need to be able to remove the lid for any normal maintenance, this limits where you can put the cage.

Conclusion

The best snake vivarium is impossible to find. Each snake keeper has their own preferences, and it’s simply a question of weighing the possibilities available in your location and, using the information provided in this article, determining which solution is most suited to your needs.

CategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding Snake Habitat
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10 Best Snake As Pet

Snakes are interesting creatures, and with proper treatment, the majority of them may be kept as pets. Snakes, on the other hand, are clearly not suitable pets for everyone. They have certain requirements and should only be cared for by someone who is committed to meeting those criteria. Find out things to think about before getting a pet snake and which species are best for beginners if you’re new to snakes. The most popular pet snakes are listed here.

1. Corn Snake

The Corn Snake is the most common snake for beginners.

They are found in terrestrial environments and are native to the United States. These snakes are generally red-brown to orange in hue, with dark red-black blotches, however many captive-bred snakes come in a variety of colours.

Corns are 10-12 inches long when young and grow to be 3-4 feet long when fully grown. They can be caught in the wild (by experts), but captive-bred animals are healthier and have superior temperaments.

A 20 gallon aquarium, roughly the size of a medium-large fish tank, can house an adult Corn Snake, and the temperature in the tank should fluctuate from 72°F to 90°F from one side to the other.

Pinky mice are a main food of corn snakes in captivity. They have minimal medical difficulties, and any complications that do occur are usually due to inadequate husbandry. They have a lifespan of up to 20 years. Overall, they have a simple care regimen and a kind disposition that makes them easy to handle and care for, even for novice snake owners!

2. King Snake

Kingsnakes may not be the most colourful of the colubrids. They are typically completely black, black and white, or a brown and white combination. However, there are different hues. They may reach a height of 3.5 to 4.3 feet.

The Mexican black kingsnake’s hue is solid black. When it comes to the kingsnake, this colouring is unique and simple to spot. The Mexican black kingsnake is a good choice if you want an inky black snake. It’s simple to look after. Adults require a 40-gallon cage of standard size. They don’t necessitate any extra attention. They have a lifespan of 15 to 33 years. For novices, King Snakes are the finest option.

3. Ball Python

Ball Pythons receive their name from the “ball” they prefer to curl up in when they want to be secure.

They are native to West and Central Africa and like to dwell in grasslands, where they are most likely to burrow in rodent tunnels. They like to keep concealed during the day and are most active at night.

They’re usually brown with lighter spots, but captive-bred ones are a different storey. Ball Pythons are available in a wide range of colours. Adults are about 3.5-5 feet long and live for 20-30 years.

Ball Pythons are gentle animals who avoid biting. When they are threatened, they like to curl up in a ball. These Pythons devour mice, but their dietary preferences make novice herpetologists nervous. Freshly killed or frozen food is preferred by these pythons.

Ball Pythons are a popular first snake because, aside from their occasional food aversion, they have a simple care regimen and are extremely easy to handle.

4. Rosy Boa

Rosy Boas have a brown-rosy-pink coloration and adapt well to captivity. They may be found all throughout the west coast of the United States, as well as sections of Mexico.

Rosy Boas are naturally interested and don’t bite or attack. They’re also great for novices because they like being handled.

In captivity, they can survive for up to 30 years. They are known for being docile reptiles that are easy to care for and need less husbandry, although they are not as well-known as the top three snakes on our list!

5. Gopher Snake

The Gopher, often known as the Bull or Pine Snake, is a reptile that is native to the western United States.

They’re often mistaken for rattlesnakes, but amateurs can tell the difference since they don’t have fangs and have a rounded nose and pupil. This reptile can be nocturnal or diurnal, although it is highly active in both modes.

These snakes are slightly longer than many others on this list, reaching a maximum length of 4.5 feet.

They hiss and shake their tails like rattlesnakes when threatened, although they are not poisonous. Although their bite is terrible, they only bite in self-defense.

A tamed and bred hostage for beginners, the environment should be calm.

They may live up to 20 years and like sunbathing, therefore a basking lamp will be required in their vivarium.

6. Garter Snake

Garter snakes are one of the most common snakes in the United States, with dozens of subspecies. These snakes are fantastic in captivity and have calm, gentle temperaments, despite their frequent sightings in the wild. Garter snakes are usually thin and tiny, reaching a length of two to four feet. They are available in a wide range of hues.

This snake is distinguished by its unusual diet, which includes tiny fish and worms, as well as rodents and amphibians. The garter snake is also active throughout the day, which is a fascinating feature. Garter snakes have a ten-year lifespan.

7. Boa Constrictor

The boa constrictor is one of the world’s biggest snakes. They also live for a very long time. They can even live to be beyond 40 years old. If you want to retain a boa constrictor, you must be serious about it. The B. c. imperator, often known as the Colombian boa constrictor, is the most popular boa constrictor breed. These often reach a height of 5.5 feet.

Boa constrictors are magnificent creatures that like exploring, but they are not the easiest snakes to look after. They need big, humid enclosures. They are also costly to get. These magnificent and unique snakes are not for novices, but they are a must-have for any snake aficionado.

8. Carpet Python

The Carpet Python is an Australian native with a wide range of colours and kinds. This Python is a little longer than other snakes, reaching an average length of 6-6.5 feet. They have a lifespan of up to 20 years.

In terms of temperature, lighting, and food, these snakes follow most of the same husbandry guidelines as the others on this list. They’ll require high temperatures, consistent illumination, and rodents to survive.

Carpet Pythons are snappy as babies and juveniles, but if they are handled regularly as children, they become more patient as adults.

Because of this, some novices choose to begin with a milder option, but it isn’t to suggest that a nice Carpet Python won’t make a good pet for most people.Most beginners adore them because of the wide range of colours available. 

9. Green Tree Python

The green tree python is a fascinating and visually appealing snake. These unusual snakes are born in colours of yellow, orange, or red. They may reach a height of 4.9 to 6 feet. They change colour and become green as they mature.

They may grow to be fairly huge, therefore a large enclosure is required. Despite its name, tree pythons require a broad enclosure rather than a tall one since they spend nearly all of their time resting on a branch.

If you want the snake to be happy, get a terrarium that is 36 x 18 x 18 inches. Biak, Aru, Jayapura, Sorong, Manokwari, and Wamena are popular pet snake breeds of this species. The morphs are called after the countries from whence the snakes originate.

Temperatures between 88 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for these snakes. They require a lot of humidity because they are tropical snakes. Humidity should not go below 40%. You must spray the cage on a daily basis. They have a life expectancy of 20.6 years.

10. Milk Snake

The Milk Snake, is a distinct species of the King Snake.

They are endemic to the United States and Mexico, and their body rings are usually black, white, or red.

They are often found in the woods or rocky places, and they like to absorb heat from rocks and logs rather than the sun, so an under tank heater may be preferable for them. They require only the most minimal of care and can survive for up to 20 years.

This little reptile may grow up to 2 feet in length during its first few years.

Milk Snakes, like other King snakes, are gentle and rarely bite.

Which Snake Is  Best For You?

There is no such thing as the best pet snake. Each snake keeper/enthusiast has a favourite pet snake based on their personal preferences. The ball python, the corn snake, the green tree python, and the gopher snake are the most common pet snake species.

The diversity of the ball python is praised. When it comes to ball pythons, there are thousands of established morphs on the market. They are really well-liked.

Although the green tree python is not a docile pet, it is incredibly gorgeous. They are, in our opinion, the best display snake you can have. They spend the day curled up on a limb, where everyone can see them. Corn snakes and gopher snakes are popular in the United States. They are simple to locate and to care for.

Please keep in mind that all snakes have certain demands, including a consistent source of heat, so unless you’re ready to satisfy those requirements, a snake may not be the ideal choice for you.

Conclusion

Almost all of the snakes in our list of ten are gentle and easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners! If you’re new to reptile ownership, consider which one is ideal for you depending on your lifestyle, such as temperament, handling, and looks. New owners of any snake should be familiar with correct care, feeding, behavioural traits, and the level of commitment necessary to retain the snake.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Garter Snake

Garter snakes have adapted to many different environments in the wild including scrubland and forests and they are usually found near water. Garter snakes are commonly available as captive bred but they are also wild collected. It is strongly advised that you only obtain captive bred or rescue animals. These snakes are now available in many captive bred colour morphs.

Behaviour

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active. In the wild they are often found around water; streams, rivers, lakes and marshes.

Females are around 3ft long depending on species and males are usually 2ft or less in length. They are a fairly slim bodied snake, males more so than females. Babies are very small, average size at birth is 6-8 inches. The average lifespan in the wild may only be 4-5 years however they can live twice as long in captivity. Captives reaching over 10 years old have been documented when reptile health and wellness is prioritized along with proper snake supplies, reptile cleaning supplies, and snake habitat products.

Temperature

Naturally, garter snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 85of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Garter snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.

At night, all of the lights should go off and the enclosure should be completely dark. This should make sure that the snake has a clear day and night cycle.

During the day your temperatures will be much too warm and the heat mats thermostat should keep it off automatically. The heat mat will only begin to heat once the temperatures have dropped below 75of at night time.

Though the thermostats we sell are very reliable it is always best practice to monitor your temperatures with a thermometer. A 5of variance on the basking spot is nothing to worry about as long as your cool side is still cool. A simple dial thermometer on each side should be sufficient but digital probe thermometers are much more accurate.

Lighting

Garter snakes do not require UVB to use the calcium in their diet like other reptiles but it is still a beneficial addition to the enclosure. The snake would naturally be exposed to UV from sunlight in the wild and as we are trying to emulate nature in our enclosures, we recommend providing some UVB. A 5% T8 UVB tube, 2-5% T5 UVB tube or more powerful but smaller unit should be sufficient. The UV tube should be mounted to the ceiling at the back of the enclosure to provide a light gradient running parallel to the temperature gradient. There will be times when the snake will want less or no UVB so partial and full hiding spots should be placed all along the width of the enclosure.

Humidity

The correct humidity is essential to keep your snake’s respiratory system healthy and for normal skin shedding. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity inside the vivarium, which should be around 50 to 60%. If it is too low, you can spray it with clean water. If it is too high, the vivarium will need more ventilation.

Cleaning

Garter snakes, as with most pets, require a clean environment to thrive. We recommend a spot clean as often as possible (every day) and a full clean every 4 weeks or so. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It may still be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

When cleaning the enclosure you should remove your animal, all decorations and all of the bedding. Once the enclosure is clear you can spray it all over with a reptile friendly disinfectant. These usually work very quickly and only need to be left for around 30 seconds, instructions can normally be found on the disinfectants packaging. Once the disinfectant has done its work it can be wiped away from the surfaces with a paper towel. In some cases, you might want to repeat this process a second time to ensure that the enclosure is thoroughly cleaned.

Your decorations can be cleaned in a similar method, simply spray them down with the disinfectant and rinse thoroughly with water before drying them off and putting them back into the enclosure. We recommend this process is done during the day time to make sure that the snake will be going back to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lamps are turned off for the night.

Handling

Garter snakes are not keen on being held for long periods. However, they may allow you to hold them for short periods, after they have settled in. Never grab your snake as this could stress it and may lead to struggling, biting or musking – when a strong smell is released from the snake – normal predator avoidance behaviours. The snake can be gently scooped up supporting the whole animal. The snake should not be taken out for so long that its core temperature drops. Five to ten minutes is a safe period, depending on the temperature outside of the vivarium.

Diet

Many keepers feed adults a frozen thawed rodent only diet, which is fine because this provides complete nutrition. However in the wild garters would eat a more varied live reptile food diet consisting of worms, amphibians, fish, and rodents, so it is a good idea to provide some variety in captivity. I prefer to feed both night crawlers and rodents, which can be found in pet stores or online reptile shops. Babies are easy to start on small cut up pieces of night crawlers. Most feeder fish contain an enzyme called thiaminase, which breaks down thiamine (vitamin B1). Long term exclusive feeding of these fish should be avoided, because doing so can lead to a potentially fatal vitamin deficiency. Garters do not eat crickets, mealworms or other insects.

A water dish large enough for the snake to completely submerge in is ideal. Garters love water and will often soak, especially before shedding. A water area large enough for swimming is ideal but not necessary. Garters will sometimes defecate in water, so it is important to check and change frequently. I prefer to use 16 ounce disposable deli cups, which are replaced at least once a week. This is the bare minimum size for adults.

Substrate

There are many substrates that will work for garter snakes. Popular choices are Aspen shavings, newspaper pellets or pulp crumbles, Cypress and Coco Husk like products. Substrates to avoid are sand, clay cat litter, cedar, pine or other aromatic wood products, or dirt from outside. Newspaper or paper towels can be used for babies but are not good choices for adults. Due to garter’s high metabolism, a deeper more absorbent substrate is preferable. Also, garters like to burrow, so it is good to provide at least an inch or two of substrate. I have used newspaper pellets or pulp, aspen, and wood pellets with good results.

Conclusion

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active.

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A Complete Overlook on Captive Snakes Caring

Snakes make excellent pets. They are simple to maintain, clean, quiet and they do not require frequent engagement. They also need very little specialised equipment for optimum care and handling. It’s crucial to realise that snake care is really not something that can be generalised. Certain species require particular handling techniques, so do your study on the species to learn more about how to care for your pet snake properly. 

It’s critical to provide your snake with the best possible care by simulating its natural surroundings as nearly as possible. Investigate your snake’s native environment, such as fields, marshes, meadows, tropical woods, or deserts.

Temperature and Lighting

Snakes are cold-blooded and require a source of heat to maintain their body temperature and maintain good health. There should be a warm and a cool side to your snake’s terrarium. The majority of snakes demand a consistent temperature of 75°F to 85°F. For most of the pet snakes, keep the warm side at 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool side at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. This gradient can be maintained by under-tank heating or overhead heat bulbs. The entire terrarium should be 65-70°F at night. Tropical species require slightly greater temperatures in the basking area, up to 90°F, as well as increased humidity 75-90 %.

For maintaining this temperature, you can provide a heat bulb to top of the cage or heat tape at the bottom of the cage. An under-aquarium heating pad and an incandescent reptile light fixture with a spot light or ceramic heater can be strategically placed to achieve this. Your snake can control his own microclimate by locating the hiding spot in a cooler corner.

Housing

Aquariums with a lockable screen cover make excellent snake housing. They will keep cold-blooded animals warm while also allowing for optimal visibility and proper ventilation. Snakes use both vertical and horizontal surfaces, so there should be enough room for them to stretch out and move about freely within their enclosure. Unless you want to keep an arboreal species such as a rough green snake, a ribbon snake, or a tree boa that require height for climbing, an aquarium that is longer and deeper than it is tall is optimal. Snakes may strike or rub against the wire on the side walls of an enclosure, inflicting harm to the snake’s face or skin. Security-oriented screen covers are a must-have. Make sure the enclosure has a good locking system. Snakes can climb over glass walls, push open covers, and squeeze through small spaces, making them excellent escape artists.

Diet and Nutrition

snake-diet-mices

Snakes are all carnivorous. They eat mice, rats, chicks, fish, eggs, red worms, and crickets in captivity. Newborn snakes are preferring pinky mice. Water snakes and garters are fed nightcrawlers and minnows. Green, decay, and ringneck snakes are fed live crickets, earthworms, insects, and caterpillars. Many desert species only eat lizards, while hognose snakes only eat toads. Bird eggs, as well as birds themselves, are common foods for other species. Most snake species that consume amphibians, reptiles, or birds in their natural habitat can be trained to eat rodents. The type of diet and frequency of feeding will vary depending on the snake’s species, age, and season. Snakes should be fed once per 1 to 2 weeks in most cases. Although your snake’s jaw can expand to swallow a rodent larger than its head, it is a good rule of thumb to never feed a prey item that is substantially thicker than the snake’s thickest point. Feed frozen rats instead of live rodents whenever feasible. Live rodents, which may bite in self-defense and damage your snake, are safer and healthier to feed. Furthermore, the freezing process will have killed most internal or external parasites that the prey item may have carried. Thaw the rodent until it is slightly warmer than room temperature before feeding it to your snake. Do not allow the rodent to thaw in locations where food is prepared.

Provide a large enough water dish for the snake to soak in. This will provide lots of water for your pet, as well as serve to raise ambient humidity and aid in shedding. A water dechlorinate should be used with all tap water. Once a day, change the water.

Handling and Safety

Small snakes are generally very easy to handle. When handling your pet, avoid being overly harsh or making rapid movements to be on the safe side. You should study the behaviour of your snakes. Some snakes are active in nature who will benefit from time spent outside the vivarium exercising. Approximately 10-15 minutes 3-4 times a week is a suitable amount of time for handling these kinds of species, but this may vary depending on the particular snake. Some snakes are shy, they don’t like being handled. Give a few weeks to settle a new snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you. Snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Handle young snakes just once or twice a week. Wait a few days after feeding your snake before handing it over; this will allow the snake to digest its prey.

When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.

Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.

Cleaning

Good cleaning, care, and handling will assist to keep your pets healthy and limit the risk of your snake infecting humans. Proper care to keep your pet healthy, in addition to giving the correct feed, temperature, and humidity. Clean the enclosure on a daily basis and remove any droppings. Cleaning the branches and pebbles, changing the substrate, removing any large clumps, and wiping down the glass should all be done on a weekly basis.

Snakes should be handled with caution and under the supervision of an adult. A snake may be startled by sudden movements, forcing it to attack defensively, resulting in significant harm. After touching your snake, you should always wash your hands with antibacterial soap. Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy.

Common health issues

·   Mites: Check your snake for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for your pet snake.

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your snake is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

Enclosure

Snakes often thrive in smaller habitats. Larger dwellings may cause your pet snake to become agitated. In a 20-gallon tank, most snakes will be content. To minimise territorial disputes, difficult feeding, and even cannibalism among some snake breeds, several snakes should be maintained separately. To keep your snake from fleeing, make sure your terrarium has a secure lid.

Substrate

The type of bedding that will line your snake’s habitat is known as a substrate. A suitable substrate will maintain moisture efficiently, will not emit foul odours from uric acid absorption, and will not be easily swallowed or inhaled by your pet snake. Burrowing and non-burrowing snakes will benefit from cypress mulch, aspen shavings, and coconut fibre. They maintain humidity and manage odour inside the snake’s cage while posing no risk of impaction (constipation). Newspaper and paper towels are free solutions, but they don’t have a high moisture tolerance and aren’t suited for burrowing snakes.

Not all forms of bedding are suitable for snakes kept in captivity. Sand, is easily absorbed by your snake, causing rigid stools and constipation. Any substrate containing cedar or pine should be avoided since it emits oils that are detrimental to snakes and reptiles in general.

Conclusion

Snakes make excellent pets for experienced owners. In order to thrive, they require the right tank and temperature conditions. Proper care must be taken to keep your snake healthy. A pet snake can be the ideal pet for you if you have the necessary experience, dedication, and education.