CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding

10 Best Lizards As A Pet

Reptiles are becoming increasingly popular as family pets, and for worthwhile purposes. It’s exciting to observe and engage with these sophisticated creatures. If you’re looking to acquire a reptile, there are many to choose from lizards. In no particular order, here are the top ten most popular lizards kept as pets.

1. Bearded Dragon

The Bearded Dragon is a popular, outgoing, and low-maintenance reptile. They are among the greatest reptile pets available. Beardies are Australian natives who are recognised for their unique communication style. They have skin folds under their chin that protrude into a “beard.”

Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat a variety of fruits and insects during the day. They should eat a couple of times a week and take a calcium supplement. These dragons are the most friendly reptiles you’ll ever meet. They prefer to engage with their owners most of the time. According to several owners, each dragon has its own distinct personality.

The Bearded Dragon is a wonderful starter lizard because of its general simplicity of care and pleasant nature. They grow to be 1-2 feet long and survive for 10-15 years.

2. Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are a popular pet and are well-known for being a good choice for newcomers to herpetology. They are covered in a pattern of dark brown spots, like to the animal for which they are called. They are totally insectivorous and must be supplemented with calcium. They are nocturnal as well.

Leopard geckos are typically calm, do not bite, and are easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners. They like to talk, especially when they’re hungry, so if you don’t want a noisy pet, they might not be the best choice. Fortunately, unlike other geckos, this species lacks sticky toes and does not climb, so they won’t require a tall aquarium. They have a 15-year lifespan.

3. Blue-Tongue Skink

The vivid blue tongue of the Blue-Tongue Skink is its most distinguishing feature!

These Australian indigenous are omnivores who consume primarily fruits with a small amount of meat. Although they require a fruit and vegetable diet, meat, such as large worms or mice, should also be supplied. They are a little heavier than the reptiles previously mentioned, although they do not grow particularly long for their size about 20 inches.

Skinks with blue tongues are typically gentle, quiet, and easy to tame. They have a powerful bite if they feel threatened, so while it is safe for youngsters to touch them, they should always be supervised. This skink has a 20-year lifespan. Overall, they are ideal starting reptiles due to their simplicity of care and docility.

4. Tegus

The Tegus is a South American animal that has lately been brought to Florida’s wilderness. They are a burrowing species that like to stay cool by hiding in tunnels.

This is a bigger species, reaching up to 4 feet in length, but it should be easy to care for for novices who can handle their size.

Despite their size, Black and White Tegus are more docile than the majority of reptiles.

They are easy to manage and have a high level of intelligence. They are another reptile species that eats mice, so if you prefer to feed fruit or insects, this may not be the ideal option for you!

This tegu has a lifespan of 15 to 20 years.

5. Monitor Lizard

The beautiful Monitor Lizard makes an excellent pet. The Savannah Monitor, Acklin’s Monitor, and White Throated Monitor, which are smaller variants of the Monitor Lizard, are the most frequent. This pet reptile should not be obtained from the wild once again.

The carnivorous Monitor Lizard may be fed rats and mice twice a week. This clever pet reptile should be maintained in a big, safe enclosure to prevent it from escaping. The Komodo Dragon, which resembles a tiny dinosaur at first glance and is not suggested as a pet, is the most well-known of the Monitor Lizards.

6. African Fat-Tailed Geckos

African Fat-Tailed Geckos are closely related to Leopard Geckos and require comparable care. These lizards are African natives, as their name implies, and their tails are nearly as thick as their bodies.

Beginners will have no trouble caring for them. Their husbandry and feeding requirements are quite simple. They are typically gentle and pleasant. They have a lifespan of 10 to 25 years.

7. Chameleon

A Chameleon should be purchased from a captive bred pet store or breeder, just like any other pet reptile. A Chameleon is a difficult reptile to keep as a pet since it is often stressed and requires a lot of attention in terms of habitat, health, and food. The Chameleon, unlike other pet lizards, dislikes being touched.

With its ability to change colours, rolling eyes, and lengthy tongue, the Chameleon makes for a fascinating and fantastic companion. The Veiled, Jackson’s, and Panther Chameleons are the most common pet Chameleons. Chameleons require big, open enclosures and feed on live insects such as crickets and flies.

8. Day Gecko

The Day Gecko is native to Madagascar, but it has lately been brought to Hawaii and other Pacific Islands. They get their name from the gold flecks that emerge on their dorsal side. They are mostly green in colour.

They’re little lizards, approximately 5 to 6 inches long, but they need a 20-gallon tank with plenty of logs and branches to hide in. This will help them cope with their shyness. These branches will also allow them to indulge in their climbing passion. Some novice reptile keepers are hesitant to accept this species since they are highly stressed and their skin rips readily. These lizards are best kept as showpieces with little handling.

They’re ideal for novices who want to learn about lizard care without having to engage with them too much. Day geckos have a lifespan of around ten years.

9. Green Iguana

Because of their attractive look and herbivorous habit, iguanas are a popular beginning Lizard. They consume leaves, fruits, and flowers, so they’re ideal for first-time reptile owners who don’t want to give live food. They are endemic to Central and South America and may reach a height of 5 to 6 feet. They will require a huge cage with a pool of water large enough for them to soak in as they get larger.

To tame your Iguana, begin handling them as often as gently as possible after they appear more at ease. They also have strong claws, so keep an eye on where they put their feet. Iguanas have a lifespan of 10 to 15 years.

They’re ideal for novices who have lots of room, patience, and devotion.

10. Basilisk

The Basilisk is noted for being a water-running lizard, gaining the moniker “Jesus Christ Lizard.”

Typically found in Central America’s tropical jungles. They consume insects, mice, and the occasional fruit as part of their omnivorous diet. Because they are small, these lizards are suitable for beginners. They may grow up to 3 feet long and aren’t very stocky or heavy for their size.

They require a huge cage with higher-than-normal temperatures and humidity. They don’t usually take to handling well, but they’re an interesting pet lizard to observe from a distance. Beginners who are willing to accept their particular husbandry requirements and lack of human interaction should keep this breed. They have an average lifespan of 8 to 12 years.

Which Lizard is best for you?

Many of the lizards on this list are wonderful for some people, but not for others. Make sure the species you pick is appropriate for your lifestyle, husbandry, and handling ability.

Though each of the lizards on this list would make an excellent first pet, they all require special care.

Because of their amiable demeanour and enjoyment of handling, bearded dragons are one of the finest choices for first-time reptile owners.

Choose your reptile carefully, conduct your homework, and bear in mind their needs.


Reptiles make unusual and intriguing pets, regardless of their species. Most reptile pets will live a long time and give years of companionship and amusement provided their unique needs are addressed.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring

Caring for your Pet Turtle – Aquatic Turtle

Turtles, both aquatic and semi-aquatic, are popular as pets. Turtles are interesting pets to have, but they are delicate animals, so learning how to care for one before acquiring one is essential. For survival, you need make space, light, hydration, and food. Understanding these areas of turtle care can ensure that your turtle has a long and happy life.

Most popular species of Aquatic turtle

Red-Eared Slider Turtle

Red-eared slider turtles are native to North America and make excellent pets. They have appealing yellow and green patterns on their bodies, as well as prominent red patches behind their eyes. They are also frequently social with their owners. When it comes to their upkeep, though, they are a significant undertaking. Those lovely tiny turtle hatchlings for sale will develop into huge, long-lived, and a bit untidy aquatic turtles. Prepare for the amount of room and cleaning they will require.

Yellow-Bellied Slider Turtle

Yellow-bellied sliders, one of the most popular pet turtles, are long-lived aquatic turtles that can live up to 40 years in captivity. Although these turtles spend the most of their time in the water, unlike amphibians, they require the ability to dry off and relax. This species of turtle is relatively easy to care for in terms of turtles. Aquatic turtles, in general, need a lot of tank upkeep. As adults, these turtles, which are closely related to red-eared sliders, will require a large aquarium. The brown or black shells with yellow stripes differentiate these popular pets. Their lower shell, or underside, is yellow with black dots, therefore the name.

Painted Turtles

Painted turtles are called from the elaborate shell patterns on their shells, although they are also known as Chrysemys picta. Males are smaller than females, and the average painted turtle develops to be between four and twelve inches long. 1 Painted turtles can live up to 50 years in the wild and can be found in ponds and small lakes, where they congregate on logs to sun themselves and dry off. They will hibernate in the winter.

Mud Turtle

Eastern mud turtles are aquatic turtles that are tiny and compact and are native to ponds in the Eastern United States from Texas to New York. They are popular as pets primarily due to their small size, seldom growing to be more than five inches long. Their needs are comparable to those of other aquatic turtles, although they are semi-terrestrial, unlike some of their cousins. Rather than seeking to soak up the sun, they spend much of their time wandering, covered beneath leaves, or resting on the bottoms of small ponds. Mud turtles are probably not a suitable pet for a smaller child, even if they are well-suited for older children who can properly care for them.

Diamondback Terrapin

Diamondback terrapins are named from the diamond-shaped pattern on its dorsal shell. Terrapin means tiny turtle. One of the most stunning turtles endemic to the United States. Diamondback terrapins are typically gentle turtles who are happy to be handled, however they may nip if threatened. They vary from other common pet aquatic turtles such as painted turtles and red-eared sliders in that they live in brackish (salty) water rather than pure freshwater.

Choosing Your Aquatic Turtle

Turtles make lovely, intriguing, and delightful pets for the appropriate person with the correct dedication. The first step in excellent aquatic turtle ownership is to learn about the different species and how to care for them. While the fundamentals of aquatic turtle care are the same for all species, prospective owners should read up on the specifics of housing and food for the type they choose before making a purchase.

The hardier aquatic turtle species, such as red-eared sliders, cooters, mud, and musk turtles, are suggested for novices. Keep in mind that sliders and cooters may grow to be over 12 inches long at maturity, although mud and musk turtles are roughly half that size. Some of the less popular species, such as map and painted turtles, are less resilient as pets. Softshell and snapping turtles have a reputation for being big, aggressive, and more difficult to care for, making them unsuitable for beginners.


Aquatic turtles do not require much maintenance aside from a suitable environment and nutrition, however regular engagement may result in a docile and social turtle. Depending on the species and under perfect conditions, they will reach adult size in 1 to 2 years; increase the size of the habitat as your turtle develops. In any event, they’re gorgeous, and with careful care, they should last for many years.

Large tanks, specific lighting, adequate filtration, and frequent cleaning are required for aquatic turtles. During the day, they are most active. Allow yourself to be exposed to the sun during the warmest portion of the day to assist digestion, immunity, and regular development. By roaming between warm and cool regions of the cage, they control their internal body temperature. In most cases, aquatic turtles prefer to feed while still in the water. Turtles dislike being handled frequently and may bite if startled.

Temperature Requirements

A basking lamp and a submersible heater serve as major heat sources for a temperature gradient of 95°F for the warm end/basking area and 75°F for the cool end/water. UVB rays and full spectrum illumination are necessary for 10 to 12 hours each day. For basking regions, incandescent illumination is required. Temperature changes take a long time for turtles to acclimatise to. If you want to play with him outside of his tank, make sure the room is close to the same temperature as the tank. Sudden changes will put him under stress, and his immune system may suffer as a result.


Aquatic turtles necessitate a lot of space. Turtles require frequent exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, thus all turtle tanks should have specific light bulbs intended for reptiles that generate both UVA and UVB radiation. They can get soft shell syndrome, a metabolic bone condition, if they don’t get enough light. Aquatic turtles are extremely filthy, so their tanks require frequent cleanings and, most importantly, a decent filtration system to ensure proper water quality. They should have adequate water to swim in, as well as a spot to get out of the water and relax under a heat lamp. At all times, appropriate water and ambient temperatures should be maintained.

Diet and Feeding

Although aquatic turtle diets have improved over time, they are not suggested as a sole source of nutrition. Most aquatic turtles are omnivores, however their preferences for certain foods may alter over time, and the best approach to feed them is to provide a range of foods. Aquatic turtles enjoy leafy vegetables like romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, and parsley (fresh, not dried). Because your turtle spends the most of its time immersed in water, the ideal approach to feed greens to your turtle is to either place the food directly in the water or use a suction cup clip to keep the food in the tank but not float in the water.

Chopped apples and frozen shrimp can be given to an aquatic turtle as a treat, but they are not recommended for daily consumption. Although certain water turtle species eat insects, vegetation should make up the majority of their diet. Because turtles are messy eaters, it’s best to feed them in a container separate from their home tank. This keeps the mess to a minimum. When many turtles live together, it also helps owners to keep track of each turtle’s food intake.

Habitat Maintenance

Keep the habitat clean by removing any uneaten food or excrement as soon as possible. At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat. Place the turtle in a safe environment and use a 3 percent bleach solution to clean the tank and furnishings. Rinse carefully with water to remove any lingering bleach odour. Before reintroducing the turtle, provide clean, dechlorinated water with a temperature range of 70 to 75°F.

Substrate Nature

For aquatic turtles, substrate is advised to reduce the danger of pressure sores on the bottoms of their feet. Your turtle’s health depends on having access to clean water. Even though the water looks to be clean, it may contain a significant amount of nitrogenous waste from excrement. Clean water is ensured by frequent complete water changes. The more frequent the water changes, the lower the volume of water. A 4-inch turtle in a 10-gallon tank should be changed 2-3 times each week. The water in a 50-gallon aquarium is usually changed once a week. The more turtles in the cage, the more water changes are required. If the turtles are fed in the cage, the water should be changed every 12 hours. When doing a full water change, clean and rinse the cage well to eliminate any remaining bacterial development on all surfaces. Because sudden changes in water temperature might be dangerous, be sure that the water temperature after cleaning is equal to what it was before.

Common health problems

  • GI tract parasites: Poor appetite, listlessness, perhaps diarrhoea, and anal prolapse are all symptoms of parasites in the gastrointestinal tract. As soon as possible, consult your veterinarian.
  • Respiratory infection: A cold environment can induce a respiratory illness, which includes open mouth breathing, eye, nose, and/or mouth secretion, and sneezing. Consult your veterinarian and make sure the environment is at the proper temperature.
  • Ulcers/shell rot: An dirty environment or an inappropriate food can create discoloured or foul-smelling patches or pits on the shell, which can become diseased. Consult your veterinarian and make sure you’re getting daily cleanings and/or changing your diet.
  • Eye or respiratory infection: A vitamin A deficit may produce swollen eyes and sides of the head. Consult your veterinarian and take a multivitamin.


Aquatic turtles are friendly and popular pets, but they require a lot of care. These creatures are tidy, quiet, and very simple to look after. Children should avoid aquatic turtles as pets.

green-iguana-posterCategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Green Iguana

Green iguanas can be found throughout North and South America’s tropical and subtropical regions. Green iguanas are found throughout Mexico, Central America, and South America, including Paraguay and Argentina. Green iguanas can be found across the Lesser Antilles, as well as the Greater Antilles and Southern Florida in recent years. Green iguanas are an invasive species in the Greater Antilles and southern Florida. Iguanas are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets. They prefer sunbathing or being exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and they eat a diet rich in leafy greens and vegetables.

What We Like About Green Iguanas:


  • In its native nations, this species is known as “palo gallino” or “bamboo chicken.”
  • On top of their heads, they have a “third eye,” a photosensory organ.
  • Face recognition is a capability of iguanas. This means they can figure out who looks after them.
  • Hatchlings can stay together for up to a year. Males in the family group frequently guard females, a trait rarely seen in other reptiles.


  • Large, complicated enclosures with plenty of perches and room are required for iguanas.
  • This lizard has unique requirements for temperature and illumination.
  • It can take months for them to become accustomed to human interaction.
  • During breeding seasons, males may become more aggressive.



The name implies that Green Iguanas are only green, although this is not the case. They can actually come in a range of hues. Red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, and orange iguanas are available. Their price usually rises as the colour gets scarcer, such as yellow, white, and black. Color is greatly influenced by location and selective breeding. They shed in chunks on a regular basis, just like other lizards. This process can be aided by regular soaking, but when sufficiently hydrated, they should be able to remove the skin on their own.

Green iguanas can grow to be 6 to 7 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds. Male green iguanas grow to be longer than female green iguanas, which rarely grow to be more than 5 feet long. Male green iguanas also have larger spikes on their backs and massive femoral pores on the underside of their back legs as they develop. Green iguanas can live for 15 to 20 years if properly cared for.


A Green Iguana can be docile and quiet in captivity if gentle socialisation is practised from a young age. If they haven’t been socialised or are in the presence of a stranger, they may exhibit defensive behaviours including hissing, biting, clawing, tail whipping, or stiffening. As hatchlings, green iguanas might be stressed. Excessive handling can exacerbate this, making it more difficult to socialise. Avoid handling your Iguana after they’ve been moved into their new enclosure. Instead, try moving the cage’s décor about to make them used to you. Start with feeding them with your hands to get a feel for how to handle them. Once they identify you with feeding, they will begin to trust you. You can begin managing trust once it has been established. For certain species, this process can take months.

Keep the following in mind when handling your Green Iguana:

·   Keep their face away from yours

·   Keep their tail pointing towards the ground behind you

·   Brace their weight by placing your hand between their forelimbs

Captive Environment

Adult Iguanas in captivity require a vivarium measuring at least 6′ x 5′ x 4′. If extra space is available, it is best. Most people will give a fully grown adult Iguana a room in their home. 12-14 hours each day, use full spectrum 5 percent UVB illumination. Provide a shady spot with access to a cooler spot. A heat gradient in their aquarium is preferred by all reptiles. A UVB bayonet lamp for basking at one end of the tank, with a heat mat under the same side, would be ideal. Hides, branches, reptile plants/leaves, and substrate like Coconut fiber are all excellent choices. Although personal preference is important, try to adhere to wooden hides and leaves, as these creatures’ dwell in trees, and sand for substrate and caves for hides are not appropriate for their natural habitat.

Cleaning & Misting

Since green iguanas consume a lot, they will leave a lot of waste in their cage. As a result, you should remove faeces and plant detritus with a substrate shovel on a daily basis. You should also inspect their faeces during this time. Make sure there’s a good mix of dark and light urates. An imbalance between the two, or their complete absence, can indicate digestive problems. You should clean your Iguana’s cage and replace the substrate every four weeks. If you’re using live plants, make sure to carefully remove them while preserving the root structure. Soap and water should be used to scrub all surfaces. Any removable décor should be soaked in a 10 percent bleach solution to destroy microorganisms.

Lighting & temperatures

Green iguanas are native to the tropics. You’ll want to provide them with a basking area as well as a chilly place where they can adjust their body temperature. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. Your iguana will be able to move back and forth between the different temperatures as needed. A 100–115-degree basking space should be supplied. The temperature in the rest of the enclosure can be in the 80–85-degree range. Temperatures can dip to as low as 75 degrees at night. Use a decent temperature gauge, such as a digital thermometer or a thermometer. For a baby iguana, one basking bulb is sufficient, but for an adult iguana, at least two bulbs should be placed next to each other to provide a bigger space for your iggy to heat up. Warming a large-bodied iguana takes a lot of energy. It’s great if it’s a little more spread out and not too hot in one spot.

Iguanas require UVB lighting in addition to heat to help them absorb calcium and produce vitamin D3. We must offer UVB light in the form of a special fluorescent bulb designed to create UVB rays because they do not receive natural sunlight in our homes. Heat rocks should not be used. Green iguanas have evolved a particular adaptation for basking, which allows them to absorb heat from above. They can get severely burned on a heat rock if they don’t notice it’s too hot until it’s too late.

Humidity and Water Requirements

Iguanas demand moderate to high humidity levels. Every other day, mist the vivarium. Additionally, provide a large, relatively deep-water dish for drinking and bathing. Place the water dish over half of the basking area to allow the heat to produce water vapour, which will increase humidity. As water stimulates the bowls of all reptiles, this will need to be cleaned out thoroughly every day. Also, check the water levels every time you are near your tank to make sure it hasn’t all evaporated. Also, make sure you use just lukewarm water. They might be shocked and possibly die if they come into contact with ice cold water.

Green Iguana Food

Raw natural foods purchased in a supermarket and professionally prepared “Iguana Food” can readily meet the dietary needs of green iguanas. Collard greens, turnip greens, dandelions, yellow squash, entire green beans, and other vegetables are great for your green iguana. We also give fruit on a weekly basis. Diarrhea can occur if a green iguana’s diet is high in fruit.

Small green iguanas require slightly different food preparation than adult green iguanas. When chopping raw veggies, make sure each piece is the right size for the green iguana to simply pick up and consume whole. Keep in mind that green iguanas can’t chew their food and must swallow it whole.

Green Iguana Substrate

A solid substrate must be used to avoid the possibility of your Green Iguana eating the substrate. Particulate substrates are not advised at all because they can create health issues for your Green Iguana if swallowed mistakenly. Coconut fiber, newspaper are recommended.

Coconut fiber

For most iguana owners, the coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. When the iguanas are young and in their large pen, coconut is a good substrate to utilise. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.


•      Very natural look

•      Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•      Affordable and good value


•      May attract mites and bugs over time


Another viable substrate choice is newspaper. Using newspapers, which are often easily available in the home, is a simple method. Three or four layers of newspaper should be used to cover the entire floor area. Daily replacement of newspaper substrates is recommended. Any spills should be cleaned up as soon as possible. Newspapers are a relatively cost-effective solution, despite their unappealing appearance.


•      Easy to replace

•      Affordable


•      Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection 

Artificial Grass Patch

For the large region that needs to be covered with iguanas, an artificial grass patch works nicely. It is more expensive than the other products, but the benefits may be worth it to you. Iguanas can safely eat the synthetic material because it is lead-free and non-toxic even when wet. It has a natural-looking pattern that is full and comfortable to the touch. You don’t have to do anything to get it up and running. Simply place it where you want it and plonk it down. The colour won’t leak when exposed to sunshine or the UVB lights your iguana need because it’s UV resistant. The grass has drainage pores in it, making it resistant to mould caused by standing water. This also makes cleanup a breeze. This grass will last for years if no severe harm occurs.


•      Easy to use and clean

•      Soft, natural feel

•      Durable product to last years

•      Safe and resistant to mold


•      High price

Fun facts about the green iguana

·   If they are trapped, they can detach their tails and grow a new one. That’s ingenious!

·   They have superb eyesight, which allows them to see prey or detect danger from afar.

·   Despite being classified as omnivores, they prefer a herbivorous diet.·   Green iguanas have razor-sharp teeth that can rip leaves from trees and puncture human skin.