CategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding Snake Habitat

10 Best Snake As Pet

Snakes are interesting creatures, and with proper treatment, the majority of them may be kept as pets. Snakes, on the other hand, are clearly not suitable pets for everyone. They have certain requirements and should only be cared for by someone who is committed to meeting those criteria. Find out things to think about before getting a pet snake and which species are best for beginners if you’re new to snakes. The most popular pet snakes are listed here.

1. Corn Snake

The Corn Snake is the most common snake for beginners.

They are found in terrestrial environments and are native to the United States. These snakes are generally red-brown to orange in hue, with dark red-black blotches, however many captive-bred snakes come in a variety of colours.

Corns are 10-12 inches long when young and grow to be 3-4 feet long when fully grown. They can be caught in the wild (by experts), but captive-bred animals are healthier and have superior temperaments.

A 20 gallon aquarium, roughly the size of a medium-large fish tank, can house an adult Corn Snake, and the temperature in the tank should fluctuate from 72°F to 90°F from one side to the other.

Pinky mice are a main food of corn snakes in captivity. They have minimal medical difficulties, and any complications that do occur are usually due to inadequate husbandry. They have a lifespan of up to 20 years. Overall, they have a simple care regimen and a kind disposition that makes them easy to handle and care for, even for novice snake owners!

2. King Snake

Kingsnakes may not be the most colourful of the colubrids. They are typically completely black, black and white, or a brown and white combination. However, there are different hues. They may reach a height of 3.5 to 4.3 feet.

The Mexican black kingsnake’s hue is solid black. When it comes to the kingsnake, this colouring is unique and simple to spot. The Mexican black kingsnake is a good choice if you want an inky black snake. It’s simple to look after. Adults require a 40-gallon cage of standard size. They don’t necessitate any extra attention. They have a lifespan of 15 to 33 years. For novices, King Snakes are the finest option.

3. Ball Python

Ball Pythons receive their name from the “ball” they prefer to curl up in when they want to be secure.

They are native to West and Central Africa and like to dwell in grasslands, where they are most likely to burrow in rodent tunnels. They like to keep concealed during the day and are most active at night.

They’re usually brown with lighter spots, but captive-bred ones are a different storey. Ball Pythons are available in a wide range of colours. Adults are about 3.5-5 feet long and live for 20-30 years.

Ball Pythons are gentle animals who avoid biting. When they are threatened, they like to curl up in a ball. These Pythons devour mice, but their dietary preferences make novice herpetologists nervous. Freshly killed or frozen food is preferred by these pythons.

Ball Pythons are a popular first snake because, aside from their occasional food aversion, they have a simple care regimen and are extremely easy to handle.

4. Rosy Boa

Rosy Boas have a brown-rosy-pink coloration and adapt well to captivity. They may be found all throughout the west coast of the United States, as well as sections of Mexico.

Rosy Boas are naturally interested and don’t bite or attack. They’re also great for novices because they like being handled.

In captivity, they can survive for up to 30 years. They are known for being docile reptiles that are easy to care for and need less husbandry, although they are not as well-known as the top three snakes on our list!

5. Gopher Snake

The Gopher, often known as the Bull or Pine Snake, is a reptile that is native to the western United States.

They’re often mistaken for rattlesnakes, but amateurs can tell the difference since they don’t have fangs and have a rounded nose and pupil. This reptile can be nocturnal or diurnal, although it is highly active in both modes.

These snakes are slightly longer than many others on this list, reaching a maximum length of 4.5 feet.

They hiss and shake their tails like rattlesnakes when threatened, although they are not poisonous. Although their bite is terrible, they only bite in self-defense.

A tamed and bred hostage for beginners, the environment should be calm.

They may live up to 20 years and like sunbathing, therefore a basking lamp will be required in their vivarium.

6. Garter Snake

Garter snakes are one of the most common snakes in the United States, with dozens of subspecies. These snakes are fantastic in captivity and have calm, gentle temperaments, despite their frequent sightings in the wild. Garter snakes are usually thin and tiny, reaching a length of two to four feet. They are available in a wide range of hues.

This snake is distinguished by its unusual diet, which includes tiny fish and worms, as well as rodents and amphibians. The garter snake is also active throughout the day, which is a fascinating feature. Garter snakes have a ten-year lifespan.

7. Boa Constrictor

The boa constrictor is one of the world’s biggest snakes. They also live for a very long time. They can even live to be beyond 40 years old. If you want to retain a boa constrictor, you must be serious about it. The B. c. imperator, often known as the Colombian boa constrictor, is the most popular boa constrictor breed. These often reach a height of 5.5 feet.

Boa constrictors are magnificent creatures that like exploring, but they are not the easiest snakes to look after. They need big, humid enclosures. They are also costly to get. These magnificent and unique snakes are not for novices, but they are a must-have for any snake aficionado.

8. Carpet Python

The Carpet Python is an Australian native with a wide range of colours and kinds. This Python is a little longer than other snakes, reaching an average length of 6-6.5 feet. They have a lifespan of up to 20 years.

In terms of temperature, lighting, and food, these snakes follow most of the same husbandry guidelines as the others on this list. They’ll require high temperatures, consistent illumination, and rodents to survive.

Carpet Pythons are snappy as babies and juveniles, but if they are handled regularly as children, they become more patient as adults.

Because of this, some novices choose to begin with a milder option, but it isn’t to suggest that a nice Carpet Python won’t make a good pet for most people.Most beginners adore them because of the wide range of colours available. 

9. Green Tree Python

The green tree python is a fascinating and visually appealing snake. These unusual snakes are born in colours of yellow, orange, or red. They may reach a height of 4.9 to 6 feet. They change colour and become green as they mature.

They may grow to be fairly huge, therefore a large enclosure is required. Despite its name, tree pythons require a broad enclosure rather than a tall one since they spend nearly all of their time resting on a branch.

If you want the snake to be happy, get a terrarium that is 36 x 18 x 18 inches. Biak, Aru, Jayapura, Sorong, Manokwari, and Wamena are popular pet snake breeds of this species. The morphs are called after the countries from whence the snakes originate.

Temperatures between 88 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for these snakes. They require a lot of humidity because they are tropical snakes. Humidity should not go below 40%. You must spray the cage on a daily basis. They have a life expectancy of 20.6 years.

10. Milk Snake

The Milk Snake, is a distinct species of the King Snake.

They are endemic to the United States and Mexico, and their body rings are usually black, white, or red.

They are often found in the woods or rocky places, and they like to absorb heat from rocks and logs rather than the sun, so an under tank heater may be preferable for them. They require only the most minimal of care and can survive for up to 20 years.

This little reptile may grow up to 2 feet in length during its first few years.

Milk Snakes, like other King snakes, are gentle and rarely bite.

Which Snake Is  Best For You?

There is no such thing as the best pet snake. Each snake keeper/enthusiast has a favourite pet snake based on their personal preferences. The ball python, the corn snake, the green tree python, and the gopher snake are the most common pet snake species.

The diversity of the ball python is praised. When it comes to ball pythons, there are thousands of established morphs on the market. They are really well-liked.

Although the green tree python is not a docile pet, it is incredibly gorgeous. They are, in our opinion, the best display snake you can have. They spend the day curled up on a limb, where everyone can see them. Corn snakes and gopher snakes are popular in the United States. They are simple to locate and to care for.

Please keep in mind that all snakes have certain demands, including a consistent source of heat, so unless you’re ready to satisfy those requirements, a snake may not be the ideal choice for you.


Almost all of the snakes in our list of ten are gentle and easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners! If you’re new to reptile ownership, consider which one is ideal for you depending on your lifestyle, such as temperament, handling, and looks. New owners of any snake should be familiar with correct care, feeding, behavioural traits, and the level of commitment necessary to retain the snake.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

garter-snake-caringCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding Snake Habitat

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Garter Snake

Garter snakes have adapted to many different environments in the wild including scrubland and forests and they are usually found near water. Garter snakes are commonly available as captive bred but they are also wild collected. It is strongly advised that you only obtain captive bred or rescue animals. These snakes are now available in many captive bred colour morphs.


Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active. In the wild they are often found around water; streams, rivers, lakes and marshes.

Females are around 3ft long depending on species and males are usually 2ft or less in length. They are a fairly slim bodied snake, males more so than females. Babies are very small, average size at birth is 6-8 inches. The average lifespan in the wild may only be 4-5 years however they can live twice as long in captivity. Captives reaching over 10 years old have been documented when reptile health and wellness is prioritized along with proper snake supplies, reptile cleaning supplies, and snake habitat products.


Naturally, garter snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 85of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Garter snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.

At night, all of the lights should go off and the enclosure should be completely dark. This should make sure that the snake has a clear day and night cycle.

During the day your temperatures will be much too warm and the heat mats thermostat should keep it off automatically. The heat mat will only begin to heat once the temperatures have dropped below 75of at night time.

Though the thermostats we sell are very reliable it is always best practice to monitor your temperatures with a thermometer. A 5of variance on the basking spot is nothing to worry about as long as your cool side is still cool. A simple dial thermometer on each side should be sufficient but digital probe thermometers are much more accurate.


Garter snakes do not require UVB to use the calcium in their diet like other reptiles but it is still a beneficial addition to the enclosure. The snake would naturally be exposed to UV from sunlight in the wild and as we are trying to emulate nature in our enclosures, we recommend providing some UVB. A 5% T8 UVB tube, 2-5% T5 UVB tube or more powerful but smaller unit should be sufficient. The UV tube should be mounted to the ceiling at the back of the enclosure to provide a light gradient running parallel to the temperature gradient. There will be times when the snake will want less or no UVB so partial and full hiding spots should be placed all along the width of the enclosure.


The correct humidity is essential to keep your snake’s respiratory system healthy and for normal skin shedding. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity inside the vivarium, which should be around 50 to 60%. If it is too low, you can spray it with clean water. If it is too high, the vivarium will need more ventilation.


Garter snakes, as with most pets, require a clean environment to thrive. We recommend a spot clean as often as possible (every day) and a full clean every 4 weeks or so. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It may still be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

When cleaning the enclosure you should remove your animal, all decorations and all of the bedding. Once the enclosure is clear you can spray it all over with a reptile friendly disinfectant. These usually work very quickly and only need to be left for around 30 seconds, instructions can normally be found on the disinfectants packaging. Once the disinfectant has done its work it can be wiped away from the surfaces with a paper towel. In some cases, you might want to repeat this process a second time to ensure that the enclosure is thoroughly cleaned.

Your decorations can be cleaned in a similar method, simply spray them down with the disinfectant and rinse thoroughly with water before drying them off and putting them back into the enclosure. We recommend this process is done during the day time to make sure that the snake will be going back to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lamps are turned off for the night.


Garter snakes are not keen on being held for long periods. However, they may allow you to hold them for short periods, after they have settled in. Never grab your snake as this could stress it and may lead to struggling, biting or musking – when a strong smell is released from the snake – normal predator avoidance behaviours. The snake can be gently scooped up supporting the whole animal. The snake should not be taken out for so long that its core temperature drops. Five to ten minutes is a safe period, depending on the temperature outside of the vivarium.


Many keepers feed adults a frozen thawed rodent only diet, which is fine because this provides complete nutrition. However in the wild garters would eat a more varied live reptile food diet consisting of worms, amphibians, fish, and rodents, so it is a good idea to provide some variety in captivity. I prefer to feed both night crawlers and rodents, which can be found in pet stores or online reptile shops. Babies are easy to start on small cut up pieces of night crawlers. Most feeder fish contain an enzyme called thiaminase, which breaks down thiamine (vitamin B1). Long term exclusive feeding of these fish should be avoided, because doing so can lead to a potentially fatal vitamin deficiency. Garters do not eat crickets, mealworms or other insects.

A water dish large enough for the snake to completely submerge in is ideal. Garters love water and will often soak, especially before shedding. A water area large enough for swimming is ideal but not necessary. Garters will sometimes defecate in water, so it is important to check and change frequently. I prefer to use 16 ounce disposable deli cups, which are replaced at least once a week. This is the bare minimum size for adults.


There are many substrates that will work for garter snakes. Popular choices are Aspen shavings, newspaper pellets or pulp crumbles, Cypress and Coco Husk like products. Substrates to avoid are sand, clay cat litter, cedar, pine or other aromatic wood products, or dirt from outside. Newspaper or paper towels can be used for babies but are not good choices for adults. Due to garter’s high metabolism, a deeper more absorbent substrate is preferable. Also, garters like to burrow, so it is good to provide at least an inch or two of substrate. I have used newspaper pellets or pulp, aspen, and wood pellets with good results.


Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active.

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A Complete Overlook on Captive Snakes Caring

Snakes make excellent pets. They are simple to maintain, clean, quiet and they do not require frequent engagement. They also need very little specialised equipment for optimum care and handling. It’s crucial to realise that snake care is really not something that can be generalised. Certain species require particular handling techniques, so do your study on the species to learn more about how to care for your pet snake properly

It’s critical to provide your snake with the best possible care by simulating its natural surroundings as nearly as possible. Investigate your snake’s native environment, such as fields, marshes, meadows, tropical woods, or deserts.

Temperature and Lighting

Snakes are cold-blooded and require a source of heat to maintain their body temperature and maintain good health. There should be a warm and a cool side to your snake’s terrarium. The majority of snakes demand a consistent temperature of 75°F to 85°F. For most of the pet snakes, keep the warm side at 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool side at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. This gradient can be maintained by under-tank heating or overhead heat bulbs. The entire terrarium should be 65-70°F at night. Tropical species require slightly greater temperatures in the basking area, up to 90°F, as well as increased humidity 75-90 %.

For maintaining this temperature, you can provide a heat bulb to top of the cage or heat tape at the bottom of the cage. An under-aquarium heating pad and an incandescent reptile light fixture with a spot light or ceramic heater can be strategically placed to achieve this. Your snake can control his own microclimate by locating the hiding spot in a cooler corner.


Aquariums with a lockable screen cover make excellent snake housing. They will keep cold-blooded animals warm while also allowing for optimal visibility and proper ventilation. Snakes use both vertical and horizontal surfaces, so there should be enough room for them to stretch out and move about freely within their enclosure. Unless you want to keep an arboreal species such as a rough green snake, a ribbon snake, or a tree boa that require height for climbing, an aquarium that is longer and deeper than it is tall is optimal. Snakes may strike or rub against the wire on the side walls of an enclosure, inflicting harm to the snake’s face or skin. Security-oriented screen covers are a must-have. Make sure the enclosure has a good locking system. Snakes can climb over glass walls, push open covers, and squeeze through small spaces, making them excellent escape artists.

Diet and Nutrition


Snakes are all carnivorous. They eat mice, rats, chicks, fish, eggs, red worms, and crickets in captivity. Newborn snakes are preferring pinky mice. Water snakes and garters are fed nightcrawlers and minnows. Green, decay, and ringneck snakes are fed live crickets, earthworms, insects, and caterpillars. Many desert species only eat lizards, while hognose snakes only eat toads. Bird eggs, as well as birds themselves, are common foods for other species. Most snake species that consume amphibians, reptiles, or birds in their natural habitat can be trained to eat rodents. The type of diet and frequency of feeding will vary depending on the snake’s species, age, and season. Snakes should be fed once per 1 to 2 weeks in most cases. Although your snake’s jaw can expand to swallow a rodent larger than its head, it is a good rule of thumb to never feed a prey item that is substantially thicker than the snake’s thickest point. Feed frozen rats instead of live rodents whenever feasible. Live rodents, which may bite in self-defense and damage your snake, are safer and healthier to feed. Furthermore, the freezing process will have killed most internal or external parasites that the prey item may have carried. Thaw the rodent until it is slightly warmer than room temperature before feeding it to your snake. Do not allow the rodent to thaw in locations where food is prepared.

Provide a large enough water dish for the snake to soak in. This will provide lots of water for your pet, as well as serve to raise ambient humidity and aid in shedding. A water dechlorinate should be used with all tap water. Once a day, change the water.

Handling and Safety

Small snakes are generally very easy to handle. When handling your pet, avoid being overly harsh or making rapid movements to be on the safe side. You should study the behaviour of your snakes. Some snakes are active in nature who will benefit from time spent outside the vivarium exercising. Approximately 10-15 minutes 3-4 times a week is a suitable amount of time for handling these kinds of species, but this may vary depending on the particular snake. Some snakes are shy, they don’t like being handled. Give a few weeks to settle a new snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you. Snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Handle young snakes just once or twice a week. Wait a few days after feeding your snake before handing it over; this will allow the snake to digest its prey.

When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.

Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.


Good cleaning, care, and handling will assist to keep your pets healthy and limit the risk of your snake infecting humans. Proper care to keep your pet healthy, in addition to giving the correct feed, temperature, and humidity. Clean the enclosure on a daily basis and remove any droppings. Cleaning the branches and pebbles, changing the substrate, removing any large clumps, and wiping down the glass should all be done on a weekly basis.

Snakes should be handled with caution and under the supervision of an adult. A snake may be startled by sudden movements, forcing it to attack defensively, resulting in significant harm. After touching your snake, you should always wash your hands with antibacterial soap. Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy.

Common health issues

·   Mites: Check your snake for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for your pet snake.

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your snake is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.


Snakes often thrive in smaller habitats. Larger dwellings may cause your pet snake to become agitated. In a 20-gallon tank, most snakes will be content. To minimise territorial disputes, difficult feeding, and even cannibalism among some snake breeds, several snakes should be maintained separately. To keep your snake from fleeing, make sure your terrarium has a secure lid.


The type of bedding that will line your snake’s habitat is known as a substrate. A suitable substrate will maintain moisture efficiently, will not emit foul odours from uric acid absorption, and will not be easily swallowed or inhaled by your pet snake. Burrowing and non-burrowing snakes will benefit from cypress mulch, aspen shavings, and coconut fibre. They maintain humidity and manage odour inside the snake’s cage while posing no risk of impaction (constipation). Newspaper and paper towels are free solutions, but they don’t have a high moisture tolerance and aren’t suited for burrowing snakes.

Not all forms of bedding are suitable for snakes kept in captivity. Sand, is easily absorbed by your snake, causing rigid stools and constipation. Any substrate containing cedar or pine should be avoided since it emits oils that are detrimental to snakes and reptiles in general.


Snakes make excellent pets for experienced owners. In order to thrive, they require the right tank and temperature conditions. Proper care must be taken to keep your snake healthy. A pet snake can be the ideal pet for you if you have the necessary experience, dedication, and education.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Grey Banded Kingsnake

The gray-banded kingsnake (Lampropeltis alterna) is an excellent pet snake. It does not grow to a huge size, is a good eater on easily obtained food items, and has lovely colours. Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in west Texas, New Mexico, and northern Mexico in the wild. The gray-banded kingsnake is one of the most sought-after snakes in the world because of its extreme diversity.


Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in a variety of habitats. These snakes are known for being simple to tame and loyal. They’re also simple to teach, particularly when it comes to feeding times and routines.

Gray-banded kingsnakes are available in a wide range of hues, from sparkling light grey and orange to darker variants. Gray-banded kingsnakes range in size from hatchlings of 10 inches to adults of more than 3 feet. They have a 15-year lifespan. Gray-banded kingsnakes can live up to thirty years if you give them the greatest possible care.

Temperature Requirements

During the day, grey-banded king snakes require temperatures between 84-90 degrees. Temperatures should be between 68 and 75 degrees at night. If you keep your snake too cool, it will regurgitate, so keep the daytime temperatures consistent. If your snake is continually moving in its enclosure and finds it difficult to settle, adjust the temperature on both ends gradually. Using temperatures to help your snake’s health is another option. During the winter, lower the temperature even further. This will provide the snake with a climate that is comparable to that of its natural habitat.


Humidity should be kept low to avoid respiratory issues. Gray Banded King Snakes require around 60% humidity. Place a damp plastic box with damp paper towels inside to keep humidity. The cover should have a hole the same size as your pet’s, and it will also help to increase humidity in the living space. You also can provide a water bowl or small dish.


When it comes to lighting, kingsnakes don’t normally rely on it, and they don’t usually engage in basking behaviours. Extra heat sources, such as hot lights or specialised bulbs, are not necessary. If you want then you can install UVB lighting as a supplementary heat source.


Gray-banded kingsnakes normally don’t mind being handled gently. If your snake has a strong feeding reaction, gently nudge it with an inert object before reaching into its enclosure to avoid it from mistaking your hand for food (such as forceps). This informs the snake that it is not time to eat.

Allow a gray-banded kingsnake to slither around in your palms without being constrained. Don’t hold on to it too closely. You can get a slight nip if you try to detain the snake too violently, or the snake may exude musk to show its dissatisfaction. So that your snake does not feel intimidated, always support it with both hands.


As needed, the terrarium should be cleaned. Several times a week, any faeces should be wiped out. Once a month, the bedding should be fully replaced, and fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A suitable reptile cage cleaner can be used to clean the inside of the terrarium. King snakes can be handled on a daily basis, but wash your hands thoroughly before and after touching them.



Gray-banded kingsnakes prefer to eat mice and other common reptile diets. However, a few lizards might be helpful to get them started. Then introduce them to mice and rats, which will be their sole source of nutrition for the rest of their lives. Feed the hatchlings a pink mouse that isn’t dressed. Adult gray-banded kingsnakes eat small adult mice, while juvenile gray-banded kingsnakes eat fuzzy baby mice.

Potential Health Issue


Mites are small black parasites that grow on and feed on the blood of your King Snake. Mites are generally seen around the eyes, mouth, and under the scales of a King Snake that has caught them. During a mite infection, your snake will appear lethargic and may refuse to eat. If you find mites on your King snake, bathe it in warm water immediately and thoroughly sanitise the tank and contents.

Respiratory Infections

R.Is is a bacterial infection induced by poor cage conditions, low temperatures, or excessive humidity, but it can also be spread from snake to snake. Excess saliva and nasal discharge can make king snakes sound wheezy. Very mild R.Is may go away themselves If the snake’s living conditions are improved, it may go away on its own, but major illnesses should be treated by a veterinarian right enough to avoid Mouth Rot or even death.


Regurgitation can be a sign of a variety of digestive issues, illnesses, and stress. If a King Snake is handled too soon after a feeding or if it is fed an item that is too large for it, it may regurgitate its food. In this situation, you should give the snake a week to settle down before feeding it again. If your King Snake regurgitates its food frequently, loses a lot of weight, or shows any other indicators that concern you, seek medical help as soon as possible.

Substrate Nature

You can utilise shavings, paper towels, and newspapers as terrarium substrates. It is necessary to spot-clean the substrates at least twice a week and to change the full set of substrates every two months to preserve cleanliness. Allowing dirty substrates to remain in the enclosure for an extended period of time will lead to the growth of hazardous germs, which can cause snake illnesses or even death. No Cedar or Redwood Shavings should be used in predator or prey enclosures since they are poisonous to all animals. Cedar and redwood should not be utilised in the construction of animal housing, nor in any furniture or panelling in a vivarium that houses animals.

To clean the terrarium, combine 95 percent water, 5% bleach, and a few drops of liquid soap. This solution must be used to thoroughly clean the cage before installing the new substrates. Clean the snake’s water bowl and hiding spot with this solution as well. Before returning everything to the cave, make sure it is completely dry.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk


Coconut husk is a light, easy-to-clean, and appealing material. It is more expensive than other substrates. It absorbs odours and binds them to the substrate. It’s a non-toxic, dust-free substrate that’s completely chemical-free. It doesn’t mould and absorbs a lot of moisture.

Aspen Shavings

For King Snakes, aspen shavings can be used. As its shavings cannot be cleaned, they must be removed and replaced with new shavings as they become dirty. If you’re using aspen shavings, you may scoop out the urine and excrement with a cat litter scoop and replace it with fresh aspen as needed. Remove any soiled substrate as soon as possible; urine-soaked material may serve as a breeding ground for bacteria, potentially harming your King Snake. You must feed your snake in a secure environment if you use this type of substrate; you do not want it to consume any of the shavings.


For years, animal keepers have used layers of newspaper. When multiple layers are utilised, it is relatively absorbent and affordable to replace. The inks used in printing, on the other hand, are known to be toxic to animals. Unprinted sheets are available from moving supply stores, and roll ends are available from some newspaper companies. When multiple sheets are used, it is relatively absorbent, similar to printed newspaper, especially when layered with paper towels. Unprinted sheets and rolls, unlike printed newspaper, are free of potentially toxic inks that could injure your King Snake.

Beech Chippings

Beech Chippings are widely accessible at most reptile stores and make for a beautiful vivarium substrate. It’s available in three sizes i.e. small, medium, and large, so you may pick the one that’s right for your snake. Although it is not as absorbent as Aspen, it allows for spot cleaning. Burrowing snakes do not prefer it as a substrate.

Astroturf / Artificial Grass

The first artificial grass floor covering was Astroturf. Since then, carpet producers have released a variety of artificial grass grades. In most hardware stores, there are two or more grades. The cheapest option is usually the best to use. It’s more adaptable, which is important for complete cleaning and disinfection. Pieces can be washed and disinfected multiple times before needing to be replaced. Astroturf® is affordable enough that several pieces for each enclosure can be cut and rotated every cleaning day. Many pet shops and mail order pet suppliers sell fake grass substrate in small, packed pieces that are identical to the stuff found in building supply stores.


One of the snake species that can be kept as pets is the gray-banded kingsnake. They don’t get very big, and they’re usually simple to feed. These harmless snakes are not venomous and pose no threat to people.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rattlesnake

Rattlesnakes have unique behaviours that make it a very good pet besides the fact that its bright green colours are a sight to see.

The rattlesnake has a triangular shaped head and is a heavy bodied snake. On each side of its face, there are two dark diagonal lines starting from its eyes to its jaws. There are dark diamond-shaped patterns on its back. Just above the rattles, there are black and white bands on its tail.


Rattlesnake is an extremely arboreal reptile by nature, so it spends its entire day on top of a branch or an elevated spot. When it is hunting or when it needs to drink water, it goes down to the ground because this reptile is somewhat shy and feels safe on top of a branch or any other similar elevated spot in its enclosure.

Rattlesnake is one of the largest members of anole species and their overall size is usually upto 1.5 feet long. The Western Diamondback Rattlesnake has a lifespan of about 8 to 12 years. Most Western Diamondback Rattlesnakes that live under human control usually live an average of about 8.3 years. As long as they are given the proper care and nutrition, these reptiles can live for more than 12 years.

Temperature Requirements

Environments that are warm and tropical are preferred by Rattlesnakes. Use lighting sources such as a UVB lamp or an incandescent heat lamp to provide your reptile with the heat or warmth it needs. Temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees should be there in the coldest portion of the entire enclosure. For achieving this temperature UVB lamp should be beneficial because it does not produce a lot of heat.


However, because the Rattlesnake wants a basking place after eating, there should be a fairly hot portion in the enclosure. The temperature in the enclosure’s warmest section should be between 95 and 100 degrees. This hot spot is most likely directly beneath the heat lamp, as that is where the most of the heat it produces should be.


When it comes to humidity, Rattlesnakes demand a humid environment with humidity levels ranging from 50% to 80%. To reach these humidity levels, mist the snake’s enclosure with water on a frequent basis. As a result, the habitat might remain moist and humid. The best technique to provide the Rattlesnake with the water it requires for drinking is to mist it. A water dish can also keep humidity levels up, even if it doesn’t serve many uses in terms of your snake’s hydration needs. The simplest way to tell if the enclosure is humid is to look at the substrate and see if it remains damp or moist.


If you want to provide good lighting to your Rattlesnake then there are two types of lights available. The first should be a UVB light that gives your snake vitamin D3. This permits it to better digest calcium, lowering the chances of it developing metabolic bone disease. Another type of light in the enclosure should be a strong heat lamp that supplies the majority of the light and heat. The main aim of a heat lamp is to maintain a natural light schedule for your snake.


For keeping your Rattlesnake away from harmful illness or health problems it is important to provide clean and sanitary habitat. Whenever you find faeces or anything nasty, make sure to spot clean the enclosure. However, once a month, properly clean the habitat to kill off germs, moulds, and other hazardous microorganisms. You may make a sanitizing solution with water and vinegar.



Rattlesnakes eat a wide variety of prey, including lizards, frogs, and rodents of many kinds. Mice and rats are eaten by tiny individuals, while squirrels and small rabbits are eaten by adults. It usually does not contain large parasite burdens, unlike some other rattlesnake species, though all specimens should be tested by a qualified veterinarian. Wormers and other drugs will be administered through the diet.

Substrate Nature

Rattlesnake rarely spends time on the ground due to its arboreal nature, you should provide a decent substrate in its enclosure to act as bedding and to keep things moist. Cypress mulch is a good choice since it maintains moisture effectively, but newspapers or coco fibre are other good options. Use of fertilised garden soil sparingly since it may hurt the Rattlesnake if it swallows it accidently while feeding.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre


Coconut fibre is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.


·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material


·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.


·       Retain moisture

·       It doesn’t mold.


·       Costly

·       Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Newspaper and paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. Paper towels can work superior for small cages. It is versatile and it can be placed on the bottom of the cage. Newborn snakes love newspapers. Adults can’t easily burrow in newspapers, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Wet or damp newspapers and paper towels can cause skin infection in the snakes. To avoid these, replace wet newspapers with fresh newspapers.


·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.


·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

The Rattlesnake is quite simple to care for in terms of maintenance. Rattlesnake does not like to be handled, they are not the best pets for beginners who enjoy handling their reptiles. Be careful while handling Rattlesnakes, they may bite you because of their shy tendencies. Proper diet and right enclosure must be provided to the snake for their health.

kingsnake habitatCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – King snake

Kingsnakes are the most beautiful species found in many areas of North America. They make  excellent pets and fairly common snakes to own. There are many different types of Kingsnakes that are common in environments like grassland, farmland and are great climbers and swimmers as well. 


Kingsnakes are non venomous and easy to maintain. Once warmed-up with the owners, it becomes detachable. King snakes are very beautiful and exist in different colors and patterns. Kingsnakes are moderate-to-large size snakes. They are 8 to 12 inches long when they are hatched from eggs. They are fast growers and quickly reach their adult size 3 to 5 feet. There is no significant difference in male and female in size or appearance. King snakes tend to live a long life, that’s usually 15 to 20 years.

There are multiple varieties of kingsnakes found with different colors and patterns. They generally have dark brown and black bodies and variations like yellowish-white speckles and bands along their bodies. California, Florida and Eastern Kingsnakes are mostly banded with the chain-like pattern. California Kings have thinner and more white than yellow bands. Mexican Black kingsnakes are truly unique species of Kingsnakes with jet-black pattern and  Brook Kingsnakes is one of the unique subspecies with speckled pattern and light brown in color.


Kings originated from the northern U.S, and northern Mexico. They are cold blooded, which means they depend on the environment to determine their body temperature. They like fairly warm temperatures and are mostly active at night time though they need to be cooled off if they want to. Kings require a warmer temperature of 80 to 85 degrees. To reach this temperature, the heaters or heat tape or heat cable can be used. These temperatures can be easily controlled by using a thermometer. The cool temperature is between 75-80 degrees. At night it can drop to 72 degrees.  


Ensuring correct humidity levels is essential to respiratory health as well as shedding. Kingsnakes are best between 40 to 60% humidity range. To maintain these humidity levels, placing the water bowl is helpful. Misting by water spray is usually sufficient. Humid cave stuffed with damp, clean sphagnum moss is also a good idea for maintaining the humidity level.


Kingsnakes are mostly active during dawn and dusk (noctual). Providing the light in the enclosure helps to regulate this kind of day-night rhythm. Usually kingsnake does not require a UV bulb or other special lighting. If you are choosing to add a basking bulb to add more light to the snake, make sure that you are maintaining the proper heat level. It should not be more than  88o F of temperature.


Kingsnakes make excellent pets and are popular one. From their banded dark brown or black to white or yellow, the variety of colours and patterns found in kings is truly attractive. Once they warm up, they become easy to handle and friendly in nature.

Handling your snake, care must be taken. When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Generally Kingsnakes are large in size so be careful while holding a snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.



Kingsnakes are carnivores in nature that means they are meat eaters and can eat whole animals at times. New born king snakes require to feed pinky mice a week while they are growing, increasing the size of prey as it grows. The adult kingsnakes require to be fed 1 to 2 mice every 10 to 14 days.

For healthy nutrition, you can feed them a variety of food. You can offer them different kinds of food like lizards, quail eggs and young rats or so. Place a large water bowl in the enclosure at all times. You can change the water at least twice a week. Replacing water daily is better yet. 

Potential health issues

Proper care and correct nutrition is a key to the health of snakes. With consistent husbandry, snakes can live a long life. 

The following are some common health issues for your Kingsnake:

Mouth rot 

Mouth rot is a secondary infection that comes out due to a low immune system. It can occur from untreated mouth injury. The symptoms of this are swelling and discharge. It can be treated with antibiotics by a veterinarian. 

Scale rot

Scale rot comes out due to moist or dirty enclosure of substrate. It happens because of bacterial growth in substrates. In that case, allow your snake to heal on clean paper towels for some time to be cured. It can be controlled by cleaning the cage consistently.


Mites cause skin irritation to snakes. It can be treated with proper treatment and over the counter products.

Signs they are healthy

·   Hunting/foraging behaviors

·   Eating regularly

·   Sheds are intact with eye caps

Sickness Symptoms

·   Self-soaking for several hours at a time

·   Refusing prey

·   Stuck shed on eyes or body

Subtract Nature

Substrates should always be easy to clean. New born King snakes like Newspapers, reptile carpet and paper towels. They easily burrow in this enclosure. Aspen bedding is the most popular snake bedding option. Kings are happily maintained on aspen bedding. It can be changed every 7 to 6 days. Coconut husk is also the best choice as it is organic and has no odor. Pine or cedar shaving is toxic to the snakes. Its aromatic oils can cause irritation and respiratory issues in your snake. It is recommended to never use these bedding. It is important that whatever substrate you use must be odor and dust free. Cleaning is essential! The substrate should be completely replaced every 7 to 8 weeks.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk


The coconut bedding is an all natural, organic bedding option for your snake without investing much money. Coconut husk resists the  foul odor and leaves in fresh air. The coconut husk is a dust-free and odor-free bedding option which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It does not mold and is highly absorbent.


  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic 


  • Does not retain humidity longer 
  • Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. For small cages, paper towels can work superior. It’s versatile and you can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. It’s not easy to burrow in a newspaper, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the snakes.


  • It is affordable
  • It is one of the most versatile bedding options
  • More suitable for hatchings


  • Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers 
  • Wet or damp newspapers can cause skin irritation for snakes

Aspen Shaving

Aspen bedding is the most popular kind of snake bedding. Aspen shaving is not too expensive and it is an ideal bedding option for King snakes. It is made up of wood and it is chemical free. You can completely replace it by paying cheaply. It absorbs and prevents the odors from waste. The substrate is free of chemicals or toxic oils and is perfectly safe for pets. 


·   It is affordable

·   Excellent absorbing and clean-up

·   Snakes like to burrow in this


·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen


Kingsnakes are truly attractive and beautiful snakes. They are adequate in size and easy to handle. They are hardy animals that eat well and are typically very friendly once warm up with the owner. Making them feel comfortable is all up to the owner. Proper diet and right enclosure must be provided to the snake for their health.
The king snake is excellent and one of the most popular snakes for beginners.

a-guide-on-pet-snake-caring-green-tree-pythonCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Green Tree Python

There are few other snakes that will receive more nervous glances from guests than the green tree python. They look more deadly than the truly venomous green tree viper.  But in reality, they are harmless. These arboreal snakes do spend a great deal of time in trees, but are active animals that need space to move and groove on the ground as well.


Although a bright neon green is a predominant colour in adults, they can also come in a wide variety of other colours. Hatchlings usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long, growing between 4 and 6 feet as adults, with females being thicker and longer than males. They can live up to 20 years of age with proper care.

These snakes have a reputation for being aggressive. Actually, the times they strike at handlers is when they are being approached from above or yanked aggressively from a limb. There are simple ways that a handler can prevent a crabby snake attack. Correct habitat design is one way, and will be discussed below.

Another way to keep your snake’s temper sweet is to always approach the animal from below. Imagine yourself sunning on a lounger beside the ocean, dozing off now and then in the pleasant warmth. Suddenly, a giant hand descends from the clouds to snatch you up and take you somewhere else that you may not want to be! You’d be crabby too.

Although this pet may not be a good choice for a hasty or thoughtless pet keeper, mindful handling generally prevents most snake and handler disagreements. With that being said, some races are just naturally more aggressive than others, such as the colourful Biak locality type. If ease of handling is important, then the potential python owner needs to consult with various breeders.  Those breeders will inform you which species have the most placid temperaments.

Most green tree pythons can be expected to live into their mid-teens with good care. A few have even made it into their mid-20s.

Temperature Requirements

Green trees originate from the rainforest, and they need it to be fairly humid. Like all reptiles, they are dependent on external thermoregulation to control their body temperature. This essentially means you need to provide a hot and a cool side to your enclosure. All the heat elements should be on one side and the other will then be the cool side. This way your green tree can move back and forth between the different temperatures depending on its needs.

The hot side basking spot should be at 86-88 degrees. The cool side can be between 78-80 degrees. At night, it can drop down to 72 ambient temperatures. The basking light should be housed in a good quality light dome like Exo Terra and Flukers that has a ceramic housing to tolerate high heat and an on/off switch. 


The green tree python requires high relative humidity levels to thrive. The humidity levels need not drop below 40 percent. As a species native to tropical rainforest, the tree python experiences rain almost every day throughout the year. Similarly, you need to mist the enclosure daily using a spray bottle. The enclosure needs to dry between sprayings.

The snake will drink the water droplets on the leaves, and side of the cage. However, you need to provide a water bowl. The bowl should be heavy and sturdy so it is not easily overturned.


As with most snakes, special UVB lighting is optional. However, to maintain the vivid green coloration of this python, it is a good idea to use a full spectrum light if the snake’s enclosure does not receive sunlight. An excellent full-spectrum light that also provides warmth is the Evergreen 100 Watt UVA/UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb which has already been mentioned. You can use a heat lamp that provides full-spectrum light. The lights need to be on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.


Green tree pythons have gotten a bad rap over the years. They have a reputation of being aggressive. The best thing to do if you want to handle your snake is to have a removable perch. Then you can remove the animal from its enclosure without disturbing it from its resting place. If you want to hold your snake, approach it from below, which is far less threatening than from above. Try not to pull the snake off of its perch. Gently lift the snake’s coils and offer your arm as another perch. Most green trees will tolerate limited handling. The handling aside, green trees make wonderful display animals.


Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Performing sanitation weekly is more beneficial for your snake. This is because snake feces can become rank in a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

You have to daily remove all the feces that you see. Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh. You can do this once a week. Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.


As hatchlings, green tree pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted pinky mice, as the snake grows the food size should be increased. Adult green tree pythons can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

A large water bowl should be provided and the water should be changed every day to ensure there is always fresh drinking water.

Potential health threats

In order to detect health issues, you need to pay close attention to their appearance and behaviour. That way you can notice changes in appetite, weight, or movement. Common health issues that affect this reptile include dehydration, obesity, tail hanging, rectal prolapse (protrusion of bowels outside the cloaca during or after defecation), necrotic stomatitis (mouth rot), and MBD (metabolic bone disease).

If you notice changes such as lethargy, loss of appetite, regurgitation, wheezing cough, or bloody bowels, you should contact your local herp vet.

Substrate Nature

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Similar to a fancy cat box type of setup. Absorbent sheets in the bottom of a false set up are fairly affordable.  And they will greatly reduce urine odour and eliminate urine from the substrate very quickly.

If you forgo the false bottom option, and start with a simpler, solid bottomed setup, you should line the bottom with either paper towels, or some other type of absorbent material.  A 2-inch layer of cypress shavings is favoured by most snake keepers. If possible, try to purchase cypress substrate from an earth-friendly supplier.  Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation.

The floor of the terrarium should be moist, not wet. It is of little consequence to the animal when deciding how to get there, there are many good choices. Coco base, whether they be fiber or chips. Mix them, layer them, lay them out uniformly – as long as it’s kept moist, you’ll be providing an appropriate substrate layer. Live or sphag moss can be centred around areas that get a lot of misting attention, around the water source is also a fine place to keep moss.

Bedding Type Available

Coconut Fiber


This may be the best choice for trying coconut bedding without paying a high price. The coconut does a great job of encapsulating and then breaking down odours from the waste. It also helps make the clean-up easier by clumping somewhat around the waste. This bedding is non-toxic and chemical free. This also makes the bedding fragrance-free, which is another sign of no chemicals. One of the best additional features of this coconut fiber bedding is the specific design to be dust-free. This is an organic product and safe for the environment.


·   Coarse material suitable for burrowing

·   Odour-free, Dust-free

·   No chemicals


·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Newspaper and Paper Towel

Newspapers work and are easy as well as cheap.  Paper towels can work in rack systems and smaller cages. It’s versatile, so you can lay the newspaper on the bottom of your snake’s cage, or you can shred it to increase the surface area. It won’t hold on to urates that well, but the shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. Care must be taken to remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the python.


·   Affordable


·   Snake can’t easily burrow in newspaper

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch Bedding are decent substrates and have the added benefits of looking more naturalistic as well as absorbing odours. Cypress mulch looks nice, again helping to create a natural-looking enclosure.


·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold


·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch


Many substrates are suitable for green tree python enclosures. Newspapers are easy to clean, but it’s not aesthetically pleasing for some people.
Whatever substrate you use, the 2-3 inches of depth. This is a good balance, allowing the corn snake to burrow. The best choice for you and your python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

pet-breeding-caring-carpet-pythonCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Carpet Python

Carpet Pythons are popular among diverse pet snakes for their vivid appearance. They exhibit a dazzling array of patterns, color variations that mimic beautiful woven carpets that are widely found in the Middle East. Often portrayed as a snake with an attitude and a nippy disposition, carpet pythons generally become used to handling and can even be docile. Additionally, carpet pythons are intelligent and curious snakes that are mostly seen in pet stores. 

Carpet pythons can be a rewarding species for your own good, if you understand this species and its needs. The following guide contains important information to help you determine if the carpet python is the next snake for you.


Because of their semi-arboreal nature, carpet pythons have a slender build. Their colours are wide-ranging, depending on the subspecies. The jungle carpet python has a striking appearance with its black and yellow markings. The coastal carpet python is brownish with yellow stripes, while Irian Jayas is brownish with tan-coloured markings. Diamond carpet pythons are black coloured with yellow or white dots. Just as with colour, the size of adult carpet pythons is dependent upon the subspecies. 

From smaller ones, like Irian Jaya (5 feet) till matured Coast carpet pythons (9 feet), these snakes grow in an advanced passion. In many species of carpet pythons, the male and female are of similar size. However, female diamond and coastal carpet pythons are often larger than the males. Carpet pythons are long-lived and commonly live over 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

A temperature gradient is a must and should for a caged snake. In particular, carpet snakes prefer warm basking, and the temperature maintained within the container should be 32o C high, and 26o C at low. During night, the temperature should be dropped to 70o F to mimic the natural environment. 

In order to maintain the regulating temperature within the enclosure or the cage, static equipment is much in need. Like, the Ceramic heat emitter or Radiant heat panel, one that is mounted on top of the larger cage. And the heat pad/ flex watt tage that is placed beneath at smaller ones. 


The Carpet Python requires moderate humidity of about 50 – 60% which should be easily reached with good substrate choices and misting. You will mist according to the readings of an accurate digital hygrometer to ensure this humidity isn’t exceeded which can become detrimental to the snake, by promoting bacterial growth. 

It is apt to provide a dish full of water or a pooling area for the snakes to rest and bathe. This way, the atmosphere remains hydrated, leaving behind sufficient humid temperature for skin shedding as well. The dish should be cleaned regularly and hygiene must be maintained prior.


The snakes are in much need of UVB rays in their source lighting, which promotes a healthy environment for better snake growth. Normal lighting or heating for carpet snakes are provided in the form of Basking bulbs or Ceramic heat mats. But a full spectrum light is recommended for the snake breeders for regulating lighting year round. 

A basking temperature of around 32oC should be maintained during the day, with cooler areas around 22-25oC which will enable your snake to respond properly.


Carpet Pythons are semi-arboreal snake species, which have a natural defensive stance by nature. So care must be taken while handling the snakes. 

  • Gradually increase the amount of time you engage with them.
  • When handling carpet snakes, support the whole snake body with your hand. Like these snakes happens to perch on branches, raising your hand overhead will give them a calming effect.
  • Avoid touching the snake’s head as it repulse back in defense.
  •  Let it move around your hands while you support its body, that way it creates a secure feel within this species.


Carpet Pythons are good eaters and tend to be overweight easily. Schedule and a regular routine should always be in check.  As these pythons grow, the feed quantity should also be increased.

For the younger hatchling to one-year-old it is advised to feed once a week, during this period a lot of protein is required which are provided in the form of mice and chicks. For adult pythons, larger rats, guinea pigs or even small rabbits are suffice to be fed on every 2 to 3 weeks.

Food should be defrosted and preferably warmed up before feeding to snakes. Handling snakes should be avoided for the next 48 hours to reduce the risk of regurgitation.

Potential Health Issues

The following are potential health issues for your carpet python:

·   Mites: Check your carpet python for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for pythons. 

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your carpet python is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

The following are health warning signs for your carpet python:

·   Lack of appetite

·   Spending excessive amounts of time submerged in its water bowl

·   Emitting a wheezing sound when breathing

·   Discharge, which can be fluid, from their nostrils or mouth.·   Diarrhea

Substrate Nature

Carpet python can be successfully raised on any type of substrate of your choice. Regardless of the substrate you choose, it is important to spot-clean the substrate daily. The substrate should be changed regularly after 6 to 8 days. 

There are many different substrates that can be used for a Carpet Python. Just newspaper can be used, but your snake will appreciate something natural. Aspen shavings and Cypress mulch are two safe and popular substrates. 

If you are specially buying for snakes, then make sure it does not have any added chemicals. You can start with Coconut husk for snakes as it forms a very good choice in means of natural, organic, odor-dust-free, does not inflict any harm to snakes and environment. 

Avoid using Pine, Walnut, or Cedar bedding. These substrates have oils and a strong smell that can irritate your snake. Eliminate the dust from wood shavings before putting them in the enclosure. Dust from shavings can be irritating to your snake and dehydrate them as well. Cleaning is most important. Whatever substrates you use It should be changed completely every 6 to 8 weeks.

The following is a list of bedding can be used for Carpet Snake:

  • Coconut Husk 
  • Cypress mulch
  • Newspaper

Bedding Types

Coconut Husk

The coconut bedding is an all natural, organic bedding option for your snake without investing much money. Coconut is helpful for encapsulating and breaking the foul odor. The coconut husk is a dust-free and odor-free bedding option which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It does not mold and is highly absorbent.


  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic 


  • Does not retain humidity longer. 

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is a comfortable bedding for snakes. It looks attractive and natural. It has a property of absorbing odor. This substrate is helpful for retaining moisture. It helps to create a natural looking enclosure for snakes so that they can feel comfortable.


  • Retain moisture
  • It does not mold


  • Costly
  • Risk of pest infestation


Newspapers are widely used for snake bedding because it’s readily available. They are really very cheap and easy to handle and replace. You can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspaper but shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. But care must be taken, the wet newspaper can causes skin infection


  • Affordable
  • easy to use.


  • Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.


Carpet python are the chosen pet snakes for docile and intermediate temperamental after taming. They are of manageable size and do not inflict any injuries for breeders. Carpet snakes are a smart-inquisitive snake species that you need to be mindful of. 

Carpet python goes well with any kind of substrate you provide. The substrate has to be of 2-3 inches of depth and good at aeration and allowing snakes to borrow. The choice of substrate selection is felt to the best of the breeders’ and snake needs. But the type, source, and depth of the substrate will have a significant impact on your pet snake health and activity.

ball python caringCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Ball Python

Ball pythons, or royal pythons as they are sometimes referred, are endemic to tropical western Africa, with the majority originating in the countries of Ghana and Togo. These snakes are secretive by nature, spending much time in underground burrows or abandoned termite mounds.


Ball pythons are among the smaller species of pythons commonly available to hobbyists. They typically measure 10 to 15 inches as hatchlings, and adults may reach lengths of 3.5 to 6 feet with just over 4 feet being average. Females are usually longer and heavier bodied than males. Properly cared for ball pythons can be expected to live for over 20 years.

The right substrate needs to be chosen for ball python to be comfortable. A healthy snake needs a healthy substrate. The substrate of choice depends on availability, affordability, and how easy it is to clean. There are many options available such as aspen shaving, cypress mulch, coconut fiber, and even paper towels.

There are a few things you need to know when choosing right bedding for Ball Python which includes following factors:

Temperature requirements

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

However, as tropical snakes, they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees. These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.


Ball pythons require localized areas of high humidity within their cages. Once or twice daily misting of the entire enclosure with room temperature water in a hand spray bottle should be adequate in most situations.


These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

These are tropical snakes so they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees.  These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. In fully enclosed cages such as vision cages and penn plax cages, use of a radiant heat panel can be a convenient and unobtrusive way to heat the cage.

Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.Use of a thermometer, especially one that records a min and max temperature within the cage, is recommended.


Ball pythons are by far one of the easiest snake species to handle. Although hatchlings can be nervous and nippy, this behaviour usually disappears within the first few months of life. As naturally shy animals, ball pythons tend to be slow moving, and content to casually explore their surroundings by crawling through one’s hands.


All snakes are carnivores, and ball pythons are no exception. In captivity a diet of mice and rats will suffice. Even hatchling balls are capable of subduing and swallowing small, adult mice, while adults may require large rats.

Generally, food items should be offered once a week for the snake’s entire life. However, this regimen may change based on the age of the snake, time of year, and pre and post breeding conditions.

Habitat Maintenance

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week. Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of bleach smell and dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate.


Whichever substrate you choose, spot clean as necessary. Due to the nature of snake urine and feces, complete changes of bedding and tank cleaning may be required frequently. If for some reason your python has managed not to make a mess for an entire month, the substrate should be replaced monthly, or at very least once every quarter.


Ball pythons originate in the forests and grasslands of Africa, where the humidity is always relatively high. Different substrates will affect the humidity level of your enclosure differently. So must choose the substrates which can be helpful to maintain the humidity level. While not a particularly common activity, some ball pythons may enjoy burrowing and excavating in their substrate. Loose substrates that allow for this can enrich the life of your captive snake.

The damp moss and tight quarters help these shy snakes to feel safe and secure. Reptile bark (orchid bark), cypress mulch, pulverized coconut husk (bed-a-beast), or a mixture of both are prime choices. Avoid any excessively drying bedding including pine shavings, sand, or paper products. And never use a cedar bedding…cedar is toxic to all snakes! 

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

Coconut husk is made from roughly chopped chunks of coconut shell. It’s widely considered the best substrate choice for ball pythons and other tropical reptile and amphibian species. Coconut husk can absorb large amounts of water, so it helps drastically with maintaining adequate humidity levels. But this cannot be used for burrowing due to the large size of husk chunks.


·   Retains moisture.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   Dust free and odours free.


·   large chunks of coconut husk may cause impaction

Coconut Fiber

Coconut Fiber or coconut coir is made from very finely ground coconut shells. It creates a fibrous soil that can be dense or light and fluffy, depending on how moist it is. Coconut Fiber is excellent at retaining moisture and maintaining humidity, probably the best choice for this purpose. Being very soil-like in nature, coconut fiber is perfect for allowing your ball python to burrow.


·   It is the best for ball python eggs or at least one of the best.

·   It absorbs bad odours.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels for snakes.


·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Aspen Bedding

Aspen shavings may just be the best snake bedding. Ball python is comfortable on this bedding. This material is preferred because of its affordability and portability. They are absorbent, contain no toxic oils or resins, and are great for the environment. Aspen shavings do not help maintain humidity levels. In fact, they can dry the air out. Aspen bedding can be great for burrowing ball pythons.


·   It is very affordable.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels.

·   Its light colour looks great in the snake’s vivarium.

·   It is super absorbent.


·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

The bedding should be avoided are include

Cedar Shavings

Cedar wood shavings can help repel unwanted creatures. The phenols given off in the scent of cedar oil is repellent to snakes. Cedar has long been used in closets because it’s naturally resistant to insects and decay. Unfortunately, cedar is one of the most dangerous woods for reptiles and should not be used in their care at all. Reptiles exposed to cedar may exhibit respiratory symptoms or develop skin lesions.

Pine Shavings

Pine that has not been kiln dried contains volatile oils which can cause respiratory problems in reptiles. It can also cause these symptoms in small furries. This bedding is not suitable for snakes. They can cause lung and eye irritation. This bedding can be toxic.


Although a common substrate for many reptiles, sand unfortunately is notorious for promoting the growth of mold. On top of this, it also reduces humidity, can irritate the respiratory tract, and can cause impactions due to its clumping properties.

Paper Towels, Newspaper, and Butcher Block Paper

It is an easy-to-clean and simple aesthetic that makes them low maintenance and ideal for temporary husbandry. Paper will absorb moisture, but it’s not particularly useful for impacting the enclosure’s humidity. Ball pythons can’t exactly burrow and dig in sheets of paper, but some do enjoy hiding underneath it.


There are many safe and ideal types of substrates to choose from. The best choice for you and your ball python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

Fortunately, if you aren’t happy with the substrate that you pick, you can always change it up during the next cage cleaning. If you switch it up enough and carefully observe your snake, you might even discover which one they enjoy the most!

rosy boa caringCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rosy Boa

Rosy Boa are docile beings that make an excellent pet among snakes. They are nocturnal creatures, mainly feeding on mices and small mammals. It belongs to the same boa family that are native to south-western America, northwestern Mexico. Boidae are snake species for pet lovers , non-venomous, heavy-bodied and are frequently kept in captivity.   

These non-poisonous snakes are able to defend themselves by releasing a foul-smelling musk from the base of the tail while threatening. Rosy boas are found in different locations that cause the color and pattern of the species to differ. Typically, rosy boas have three stripes of color that run laterally down the tail which entitled them as ‘three-lined boas’.

So the living expectations of boas are surely at another level. Their dwellings must meet the ends of boas’ requirements and if you’re planning on raising a rosy boa , you need to be mindful of these factors before you make any moves. 

The first and the foremost need is boa habitat in bedding/ substrate, the material used to line the bottom of the boa enclosures. The best bedding needs to be clean, natural and free of mites and harmful chemicals. 

The bedding type needs to keep the enclosure humid, aerated, and warm. It has to form a 2” layer in order to maintain optimal heat and humidity for the boas borrowing under them.

Young rosy boas are approximately 10 inches in length. Adults can reach 4 feet in length, but this is rare. They generally reach a length of about 36 inches. The record age for a rosy boa is more than 60 years.  This requires excellent husbandry and sanitation.  And as a caring boa owner, it’s likely they’ll receive this care, so plan on a long life for your new pet snake if you provide proper care.

Rosy boas are primarily diurnal by habit.  But if the weather is hot, they will burrow during the day and emerge at night. In a climate-controlled setting, it can expect that to see them regularly during the day.  And at this time during the day, they can be handled.

What good bedding for Rosy Boa needs to include?

Temperature Requirements

Provide your boa with a basking spot temperature of 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and an ambient temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. Nowhere in the habitat should the ambient temperature be less than 67 degrees. It’s important to take readings at the surface of the bottom of the warm side, the cooler side, and any basking areas. A basking lamp can be provided, but it must be carefully placed so that it can never exceed 90 degrees F at the closest possible point to the snake. Most experienced keepers recommend an under-tank heating mat, especially for night time usage.


Humidity can be a problem for Rosy Boas, so make sure to keep the humidity low. Provide a small water dish, and clean it up right away if it’s spilled. You can even remove the water bowl and only make it available one day a week. Spot clean the enclosure for urates and feces once a week, and every 3 months, remove all substrate and clean and disinfect the tank and décor.

Nutrition and Diet

Rosy boas are voracious feeders and will eagerly eat one appropriately sized meal every 5 to 7 days. Very large adults may be offered food slightly less often. The diet should consist of pinky or fuzzy mice for young snakes, and then gradually larger food items as the snake matures. A properly sized meal should leave a slight, but noticeable, bulge in the snake’s mid-section. 

Substrate Nature

Rosy boas are one of a small handful of common pet herps that can be safely kept on sand. While washed play sand will work, coloured sands designed specifically for reptiles may be a better choice. They are 100% clean, and because they are of a finer grain, will clump easily when soiled, and are less likely to be abrasive to a reptile’s skin.

However rosy boas are a highly adaptable species, and will thrive on a variety of other commonly available substrates. Sani-Chips (heat-treated aspen chips) is a personal favourite, while repti-bark and paper pulp products will work as well. Provide a layer of bedding deep enough for your snake to burrow and completely hide itself.

These snakes are secretive by nature, and require a variety of secure, dark hiding spots within their enclosure. Curved slabs of cork bark, half logs, and driftwood all make acceptable additions to a rosy boa terrarium.


Rosy boas are quite placid and innocuous snakes, and reluctant to bite under most circumstances. Handle your rosy boa gently and deliberately, but do not drop or injure the animal. Most rosy boas will become more accustomed to handling and will settle down considerably and become quite docile and personable pets to keep.

Cleaning and Habitat Sanitation

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Attending sanitation weekly is something you will thank yourself for, because snake feces can become rank is a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

Daily: Spot remove any feces that you see.

Weekly: Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh.

Bi-weekly: Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Bedding Common options for Rosy Boa Snake bedding include:


The best snake bedding or substrate to use with this snake is aspen snake bedding. This type of bedding does not hold moisture, making it ideal for snakes that do not need humid environments. It is also a good substrate for burrowing.

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Sort of a fancy cat box type of setup. If you begin with a solid, glass bottom, you line the bottom with paper towels.  Then, you’ll need to place a fluffy, absorbent material on top of the paper towels. 

Enclosure Type

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate. Use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. The shavings get moldy from too much moisture, and particles can get under a large snake’s scales on its belly, which causes irritation. Aspen shaving is an ideal paper Bedding Rosy Boa. It is soft and comfortable Pet Bedding. It is super absorbent. It is chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding.


·   Affordable

·   Excellent absorbing and clean-up

·   Snakes like to burrow in this


·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.


·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold.


·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch.