CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Coir Products Pets Bedding Worm Bedding

Why should I switch to Coco Coir Bedding?

Coco Coir:

Coco coir fibre is an organic, waterproof material and absolutely safe for the animals as well as the environment. 

The coir fiber is known to be  thickest and most resistant of all commercial natural fibers and possess a higher elongation ability. They entrap surrounding air, giving rise to resilience to the fiber, and increase the time duration that the  water takes to penetrate into the fibers. Their low decomposition rate is the key advantage for making durable products. 

In addition, these fibers can be much more stretched beyond their elastic limit, around 5-10 times of their weight. Coir fiber is a good low cost adsorbent substitute.

  • The coir fiber is by-nature a waterproof material and is a 100% organic, renewable product that’s untreated & completely safe for animals and the environment.
  •  Providing amazing benefits, fiber’s interlocking ability makes sure deep absorption.
  •  It practically eliminates odor and thereafter flies and pests as well.
  • A unique aspect of coconut coir is its ability to insulate, providing thermal control during cold winters or blazing summer heat.
  • And it makes an excellent soil amendment, so it can be recycled safely into your garden, eliminating waste and doing wonders for your plants.
  • Coco coirs can be used as a bedding.

Coco Coir Bedding: 

Coco coir bedding is an absolutely natural bedding which can be implemented in different entities such as

Worm Bedding

Flower Bedding

Vegetable Garden

Reptile Bedding

Worm Bedding:

Providing a coco coir bedding for the worms benefits them in different aspects. The bedding acts as an excellent home for the worms without excessive constriction. It also allows air ventilation making worms to breathe and move freely.

As most of the worms consume the bedding provided for them, coco coir bedding is an excellent option as it is 100%  safe and organic.

Flower Bedding:

Coco coir provides excellent benefits to the plants and also the flowers. Using coco coir in the garden improves the soil health thereby making the plant grow well and give maximum yield.

Vegetable Garden:

Coco coir is an affordable bedding option one can use in the garden for the healthier plants and good yield. Going with the natural options available is great for plant health as well as human health. The vegetables grown on coir bedding will be natural and safe to consume.

Reptile Bedding:

A 100% natural and non toxic bedding which can be provided for your reptile  pets can be a coco coir bedding. Not only for the reptiles, but can also be used for different species.

Using an organic bedding directly impacts on a pet’s health and overall well being. 

You can refer to the user guide of reptile bedding in our recent blog. 

Advantages of Coco Coir Bedding: 

Let us get to know the advantages of coco coir bedding:

Bacteria and fungi free:

Coco coir is one such media or bedding which is free from the bacteria and fungi and thus absolutely safe to use for plants as well as your pets and doesn’t cause any harm to them.


Compared to other media or beddings, coco coir can be reused as it won’t crumble. Hence is environmentally safe , organic and biodegradable.


Coco coirs are generally affordable and low at cost when compared to other types of bedding. And also can be transported easily when it is in compressed form.

Neutral pH:

Coco coir possesses a neutral pH which suits best for plants and vegetables.

Moisture absorption:

The coco coir has a high moisture absorbing capacity and hence keeps the bedding dry and thus making the pet feel comfortable.


Coco coir bedding provides proper ventilation and doesn’t make the pets feel suffocated. 

Hence it’s time for you to switch to coco coir bedding and go natural and use environmentally friendly products. 


We hope you find this article helpful and enjoy reading. Do check out our recent blog Benefits of using Coir Netting.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Coir Products How To Recycle Coco Coir Tips & Tricks

How To Recycle Coco Coir

Gardeners are increasingly using coco coir in its many forms as a soil amendment or as a growth medium on its own. It is an environmentally friendly substrate, which is one of its main selling features as an alternative to sphagnum peat.

It’s not simply that the fibres are resistant to deterioration and can persist for years. Coconuts are grown only once a year. Coco coir is self-sustaining, unlike peatlands, which take decades to create.

It’s not surprising, however, that an increasing number of gardeners want to learn more about how to utilise coco coir successfully.

Recycling The Coco Coir

One of the most beneficial aspects of utilizing coco coir is the ability to recycle old coir particles.

The first and most important step is to remove the coir medium from the growing area for drying. Spread the coir out to dry; it will most likely take weeks to totally dehydrate.

Any leftover plant materials from the previous crop should be removed. Larger roots and stems should be removed, leaving smaller roots behind that can be treated (with enzyme solution) to create a healthy supplement for future root systems.

Wash the coco with distilled water to remove any dead roots or leftover salts that may obstruct future nutrient absorption, as well as to maintain optimum EC and pH.

To remove the coco from the wash basin, use a perforated strainer or screen with an 18-inch mesh. It is preferable to wash outside, in the garden or backyard, to remove any impurities.

Setting the coco coir to be reusable entails re-buffering and enzyme treatment, as well as renewing the growth potential.

Cation exchange sites abound on the surface of Coco coir. Buffering is the process of exposing cation exchange sites to extremely concentrated calcium and magnesium solutions.

The coir material will be buffered before being used for the first time. Buffering should be done once more for re-use purposes.

Simply place the fabric pot of coco in a bucket and pour enough buffering solution to thoroughly immerse the cation exchange sites with Cal/Mag. Allow it to sit for 8 hours, covered.

Then, remove the cloth bag from the bucket and drain the buffering solution.

A specific enzyme mix is employed to break down leftover root material from the previous crop. Sensizym, for example, reconditions coco coir to provide a healthy foundation for fresh crops.

Enzymes convert the leftover roots into Carbohydrates that are sugar, which are then used by helpful bacteria in the rhizosphere for energy.

Then they make new enzymes to keep the cycle going and break down dead organic materials.

Coco that has been buffered and enzyme-treated is now ready to be reused.

The used coco coir comes in useful as a combination for grow media or as direct grow medium due to its deep aeration and improved water retention.

Coco is an excellent soil supplement for outdoor flower beds, gardens, and other areas where the soil is compacted.


Growing coco is not just a healthy option however recycling the coco is yet another method to make an environmentally conscientious decision for a better world.

corn-snake-caringCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Corn Snake

Corn snakes are the most popular snake for their own good reasons. They make an excellent pet. Their extremely gorgeous colours and patterns are eye-catching. Corn snakes are calm, docile and relatively easy to handle. Because of their gentle nature, they make fantastic choices as pet snakes for beginner snake owners. They are native to the south-eastern United States, are mostly land-dwelling and are active mainly at night or at dusk and dawn.


corn snake in wild

Corn snakes are large snakes as they hatch from egg  8 to 12 inches and reach 4 to 5.5 feet in their adulthood. Corn snakes can live into their late teens and perhaps their early twenties if they are properly cared for. They can reproduce until they are 10 to 12 years old, and occasionally even longer. Corn snakes, often called red rat snakes as they are  orange or brownish-yellow snakes with a pattern of large red blotches outlined in black down their backs. They are appealingly slender.  

The alternatingly black and white marks like a checkerboard pattern, runs along their bellies. Corn snakes show considerable variations in their color and pattern depending on their age and geographic location.

Temperature Requirements

Corn snakes are most active around night time therefore additional light is not required so natural cycle of lights is enough. Corn snakes are cold-blooded or ectothermic. They require a temperature gradient consisting of a warm side 81o F to 86o F and cool side 74o F to 78o F. Corn Snakes tend to use heat from the ground. 

For maintaining these temperatures you need to use some external heating elements. Heat pads are recommended in order to keep corn snakes warmer. Also heat bulbs can be used for heating. Infrared Ceramic Heat Emitter with thermostat is also used for maintaining  these levels of temperature.



Corn snakes prefer to live between the average humidity of 65-75%. The right level of humidity is necessary to prevent dehydration, maintain respiratory health and facilitate proper shedding. These tips will help you maintain healthy humidity levels in your snake enclosures. 

  • Make use of dry substrate like aspen and lignocel. 
  • Provide a clean and chemical-free surrounding of leaf-litter on top of substrate. 
  • Mist the enclosure on a daily basis. 
  • For better results, install a cool mist humidifier at night.


Corn snakes are mostly daylight dwellers. They need a distinct day/night cycle in captivity. For regulating your snake’s natural biorhythms and encouraging them on natural behaviors, you need to provide them with terrarium-specific lighting. Corn snakes require 12 hours of lighting per day. 

To promote more natural hormonal rhythms in your snake and for better overall health results, provide them with a seasonal light cycle. Providing UVB can be very beneficial for a snake’s mental and physical health. If you are providing UVB then, use a T5 HO UVB fluorescent tube and replace it every 12 months.

Corn snakes don’t require nighttime lighting such as colored bulbs. If you are providing nighttime lighting to your snakes then stop, because it may damage your snake’s eyesight and/or mental health.



Corn Snakes are quite active snakes and to exercise they will appreciate time outside the vivarium. Give support to your Corn snake at all times to avoid dropping them. Give a few weeks to settle a new Corn snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your Corn snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you.

Depending on the particular snake, A suitable handling time for your Corn snake is 3-4 times in a week for approximately 10-15 minutes. Some Corn snakes may shy from regular handling while some may enjoy more time outside the vivarium. Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.


Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy. Bedding makes it easy to clean feces. You have to remove faces daily that you see. Cleaning the spot of your snake should be done lightly once a week. You can replace the top 1 inch of bedding in a week.  Weekly sanitation is must recommended to keep your snake environment hygienic. 

Cage Maintenance

As Corn snakes excrete small amounts of semi-solid fluid, they require least maintenance. For quick cleaning of feces, use Aspen and other similar substrates. The entire cage and all the accessories should be washed out once after 4-5 months with a gentle soap and the used bedding should be completely thrown out. If you are using paper towels then change them once a week.



The primary natural food of Corn Snake  is mice and rats. The size of prey depends upon the girth of the snake. Must avoid feeding your Corn Snake anything bigger than the thickest part of its body. Some baby snakes can eat lizards and occasional frogs. Adult snakes can also eat birds or their eggs. You can feed baby corn snakes once every 5 to 7 days and feed adults once every 7 to 10 days.

Substrate Nature

Aspen is the most commonly used bedding type for snakes, as it allows them to burrow easily. Corn snakes require just an inch depth of substrate to burrow in. Younger ones easily get adjusted to a new substrate while it may take some time for the adult ones to feel comfortable to settle in. You may add even more bedding to increase the depth and feel more comfortable.

Usually, corn snakes use bedding to protect their bellies as they slide around. But they love to feel of burrowing. Coconut husk is one such completely natural and organic bedding that is non-toxic and gives off a cosy feel to snakes. Never use cedar or pine shaving. 

Its aromatic oils can cause irritation and respiratory issues in your snake. Cleaning is essential. Substrates should be completely replaced every 7 to 8 weeks.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk


Coconut husk bedding is a completely natural and organic bedding material for your corn snakes. It is an easily available and low cost alternative. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.


  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic material


  • Doesn’t retain humidity much longer
  • Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Aspen Bedding

Aspen Bedding is the most popular bedding option for corn snakes. It is an ideal substrate and affordable so you can completely replace it. This is natural bedding which is made up of shaved aspen wood. It absorbs odours and prevents odour from waste. It is perfectly safe for your pet snake.


  • It is not too expensive.
  • Snakes are easily burrowed in it.
  • It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.


  • It needs to change completely more often.

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is slightly similar to the Aspen shaving. It is made up of small pieces of wood. It looks attractive and it helps to create a natural looking enclosure. It helps to retain moisture. It does not mold easily. Snakes can easily burrow in it.


  • It doesn’t mold.
  • It retains moisture.
  • It helps to create a natural looking enclosure.

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspaper covers are the cheap and easy-to-use substrate type. It works best for the small cages. Newborn snakes love the soft texture of paper, but adults can’t easily burrow in newspaper. Wet or the damp newspaper and towels can cause skin infections to snake skin. So replace the wet newspaper with fresh newspaper.


  • It is one of the most versatile bedding options.
  • It is affordable.
  • It is more suitable for hatchings.


  • Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.
  • Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.


Corn snakes burrow in the wild, so they should be allowed to do so in captivity. The best choice for snake bedding is Coconut Husk. Coconut Husk  is soft enough not to hurt your snake and it holds its shape when burrowed into. It is highly absorbent and looks better than other bedding types. However, the best choice for you and your snake is felt as per your convenience and needs. Types and depth of the bedding substrate is significantly important for your snake health and happiness. 

a-guide-on-pet-snake-caring-green-tree-pythonCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Green Tree Python

There are few other snakes that will receive more nervous glances from guests than the green tree python. They look more deadly than the truly venomous green tree viper.  But in reality, they are harmless. These arboreal snakes do spend a great deal of time in trees, but are active animals that need space to move and groove on the ground as well.


Although a bright neon green is a predominant colour in adults, they can also come in a wide variety of other colours. Hatchlings usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long, growing between 4 and 6 feet as adults, with females being thicker and longer than males. They can live up to 20 years of age with proper care.

These snakes have a reputation for being aggressive. Actually, the times they strike at handlers is when they are being approached from above or yanked aggressively from a limb. There are simple ways that a handler can prevent a crabby snake attack. Correct habitat design is one way, and will be discussed below.

Another way to keep your snake’s temper sweet is to always approach the animal from below. Imagine yourself sunning on a lounger beside the ocean, dozing off now and then in the pleasant warmth. Suddenly, a giant hand descends from the clouds to snatch you up and take you somewhere else that you may not want to be! You’d be crabby too.

Although this pet may not be a good choice for a hasty or thoughtless pet keeper, mindful handling generally prevents most snake and handler disagreements. With that being said, some races are just naturally more aggressive than others, such as the colourful Biak locality type. If ease of handling is important, then the potential python owner needs to consult with various breeders.  Those breeders will inform you which species have the most placid temperaments.

Most green tree pythons can be expected to live into their mid-teens with good care. A few have even made it into their mid-20s.

Temperature Requirements

Green trees originate from the rainforest, and they need it to be fairly humid. Like all reptiles, they are dependent on external thermoregulation to control their body temperature. This essentially means you need to provide a hot and a cool side to your enclosure. All the heat elements should be on one side and the other will then be the cool side. This way your green tree can move back and forth between the different temperatures depending on its needs.

The hot side basking spot should be at 86-88 degrees. The cool side can be between 78-80 degrees. At night, it can drop down to 72 ambient temperatures. The basking light should be housed in a good quality light dome like Exo Terra and Flukers that has a ceramic housing to tolerate high heat and an on/off switch. 


The green tree python requires high relative humidity levels to thrive. The humidity levels need not drop below 40 percent. As a species native to tropical rainforest, the tree python experiences rain almost every day throughout the year. Similarly, you need to mist the enclosure daily using a spray bottle. The enclosure needs to dry between sprayings.

The snake will drink the water droplets on the leaves, and side of the cage. However, you need to provide a water bowl. The bowl should be heavy and sturdy so it is not easily overturned.


As with most snakes, special UVB lighting is optional. However, to maintain the vivid green coloration of this python, it is a good idea to use a full spectrum light if the snake’s enclosure does not receive sunlight. An excellent full-spectrum light that also provides warmth is the Evergreen 100 Watt UVA/UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb which has already been mentioned. You can use a heat lamp that provides full-spectrum light. The lights need to be on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.


Green tree pythons have gotten a bad rap over the years. They have a reputation of being aggressive. The best thing to do if you want to handle your snake is to have a removable perch. Then you can remove the animal from its enclosure without disturbing it from its resting place. If you want to hold your snake, approach it from below, which is far less threatening than from above. Try not to pull the snake off of its perch. Gently lift the snake’s coils and offer your arm as another perch. Most green trees will tolerate limited handling. The handling aside, green trees make wonderful display animals.


Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Performing sanitation weekly is more beneficial for your snake. This is because snake feces can become rank in a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

You have to daily remove all the feces that you see. Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh. You can do this once a week. Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.


As hatchlings, green tree pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted pinky mice, as the snake grows the food size should be increased. Adult green tree pythons can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

A large water bowl should be provided and the water should be changed every day to ensure there is always fresh drinking water.

Potential health threats

In order to detect health issues, you need to pay close attention to their appearance and behaviour. That way you can notice changes in appetite, weight, or movement. Common health issues that affect this reptile include dehydration, obesity, tail hanging, rectal prolapse (protrusion of bowels outside the cloaca during or after defecation), necrotic stomatitis (mouth rot), and MBD (metabolic bone disease).

If you notice changes such as lethargy, loss of appetite, regurgitation, wheezing cough, or bloody bowels, you should contact your local herp vet.

Substrate Nature

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Similar to a fancy cat box type of setup. Absorbent sheets in the bottom of a false set up are fairly affordable.  And they will greatly reduce urine odour and eliminate urine from the substrate very quickly.

If you forgo the false bottom option, and start with a simpler, solid bottomed setup, you should line the bottom with either paper towels, or some other type of absorbent material.  A 2-inch layer of cypress shavings is favoured by most snake keepers. If possible, try to purchase cypress substrate from an earth-friendly supplier.  Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation.

The floor of the terrarium should be moist, not wet. It is of little consequence to the animal when deciding how to get there, there are many good choices. Coco base, whether they be fiber or chips. Mix them, layer them, lay them out uniformly – as long as it’s kept moist, you’ll be providing an appropriate substrate layer. Live or sphag moss can be centred around areas that get a lot of misting attention, around the water source is also a fine place to keep moss.

Bedding Type Available

Coconut Fiber


This may be the best choice for trying coconut bedding without paying a high price. The coconut does a great job of encapsulating and then breaking down odours from the waste. It also helps make the clean-up easier by clumping somewhat around the waste. This bedding is non-toxic and chemical free. This also makes the bedding fragrance-free, which is another sign of no chemicals. One of the best additional features of this coconut fiber bedding is the specific design to be dust-free. This is an organic product and safe for the environment.


·   Coarse material suitable for burrowing

·   Odour-free, Dust-free

·   No chemicals


·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Newspaper and Paper Towel

Newspapers work and are easy as well as cheap.  Paper towels can work in rack systems and smaller cages. It’s versatile, so you can lay the newspaper on the bottom of your snake’s cage, or you can shred it to increase the surface area. It won’t hold on to urates that well, but the shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. Care must be taken to remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the python.


·   Affordable


·   Snake can’t easily burrow in newspaper

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch Bedding are decent substrates and have the added benefits of looking more naturalistic as well as absorbing odours. Cypress mulch looks nice, again helping to create a natural-looking enclosure.


·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold


·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch


Many substrates are suitable for green tree python enclosures. Newspapers are easy to clean, but it’s not aesthetically pleasing for some people.
Whatever substrate you use, the 2-3 inches of depth. This is a good balance, allowing the corn snake to burrow. The best choice for you and your python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

rosy boa caringCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rosy Boa

Rosy Boa are docile beings that make an excellent pet among snakes. They are nocturnal creatures, mainly feeding on mices and small mammals. It belongs to the same boa family that are native to south-western America, northwestern Mexico. Boidae are snake species for pet lovers , non-venomous, heavy-bodied and are frequently kept in captivity.   

These non-poisonous snakes are able to defend themselves by releasing a foul-smelling musk from the base of the tail while threatening. Rosy boas are found in different locations that cause the color and pattern of the species to differ. Typically, rosy boas have three stripes of color that run laterally down the tail which entitled them as ‘three-lined boas’.

So the living expectations of boas are surely at another level. Their dwellings must meet the ends of boas’ requirements and if you’re planning on raising a rosy boa , you need to be mindful of these factors before you make any moves. 

The first and the foremost need is boa habitat in bedding/ substrate, the material used to line the bottom of the boa enclosures. The best bedding needs to be clean, natural and free of mites and harmful chemicals. 

The bedding type needs to keep the enclosure humid, aerated, and warm. It has to form a 2” layer in order to maintain optimal heat and humidity for the boas borrowing under them.

Young rosy boas are approximately 10 inches in length. Adults can reach 4 feet in length, but this is rare. They generally reach a length of about 36 inches. The record age for a rosy boa is more than 60 years.  This requires excellent husbandry and sanitation.  And as a caring boa owner, it’s likely they’ll receive this care, so plan on a long life for your new pet snake if you provide proper care.

Rosy boas are primarily diurnal by habit.  But if the weather is hot, they will burrow during the day and emerge at night. In a climate-controlled setting, it can expect that to see them regularly during the day.  And at this time during the day, they can be handled.

What good bedding for Rosy Boa needs to include?

Temperature Requirements

Provide your boa with a basking spot temperature of 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and an ambient temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. Nowhere in the habitat should the ambient temperature be less than 67 degrees. It’s important to take readings at the surface of the bottom of the warm side, the cooler side, and any basking areas. A basking lamp can be provided, but it must be carefully placed so that it can never exceed 90 degrees F at the closest possible point to the snake. Most experienced keepers recommend an under-tank heating mat, especially for night time usage.


Humidity can be a problem for Rosy Boas, so make sure to keep the humidity low. Provide a small water dish, and clean it up right away if it’s spilled. You can even remove the water bowl and only make it available one day a week. Spot clean the enclosure for urates and feces once a week, and every 3 months, remove all substrate and clean and disinfect the tank and décor.

Nutrition and Diet

Rosy boas are voracious feeders and will eagerly eat one appropriately sized meal every 5 to 7 days. Very large adults may be offered food slightly less often. The diet should consist of pinky or fuzzy mice for young snakes, and then gradually larger food items as the snake matures. A properly sized meal should leave a slight, but noticeable, bulge in the snake’s mid-section. 

Substrate Nature

Rosy boas are one of a small handful of common pet herps that can be safely kept on sand. While washed play sand will work, coloured sands designed specifically for reptiles may be a better choice. They are 100% clean, and because they are of a finer grain, will clump easily when soiled, and are less likely to be abrasive to a reptile’s skin.

However rosy boas are a highly adaptable species, and will thrive on a variety of other commonly available substrates. Sani-Chips (heat-treated aspen chips) is a personal favourite, while repti-bark and paper pulp products will work as well. Provide a layer of bedding deep enough for your snake to burrow and completely hide itself.

These snakes are secretive by nature, and require a variety of secure, dark hiding spots within their enclosure. Curved slabs of cork bark, half logs, and driftwood all make acceptable additions to a rosy boa terrarium.


Rosy boas are quite placid and innocuous snakes, and reluctant to bite under most circumstances. Handle your rosy boa gently and deliberately, but do not drop or injure the animal. Most rosy boas will become more accustomed to handling and will settle down considerably and become quite docile and personable pets to keep.

Cleaning and Habitat Sanitation

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Attending sanitation weekly is something you will thank yourself for, because snake feces can become rank is a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

Daily: Spot remove any feces that you see.

Weekly: Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh.

Bi-weekly: Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Bedding Common options for Rosy Boa Snake bedding include:


The best snake bedding or substrate to use with this snake is aspen snake bedding. This type of bedding does not hold moisture, making it ideal for snakes that do not need humid environments. It is also a good substrate for burrowing.

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Sort of a fancy cat box type of setup. If you begin with a solid, glass bottom, you line the bottom with paper towels.  Then, you’ll need to place a fluffy, absorbent material on top of the paper towels. 

Enclosure Type

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate. Use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. The shavings get moldy from too much moisture, and particles can get under a large snake’s scales on its belly, which causes irritation. Aspen shaving is an ideal paper Bedding Rosy Boa. It is soft and comfortable Pet Bedding. It is super absorbent. It is chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding.


·   Affordable

·   Excellent absorbing and clean-up

·   Snakes like to burrow in this


·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.


·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold.


·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch.

caring for boa constrictorCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Boa Constrictor


Boa constrictor is a one large, heavy bodied snake belonging to the family, Boidae. Commonly found in tropical South America and islands of Caribbean. Boas live in a wide variety of environmental conditions like tropical rainforest to semi desert lands. 

Boas are generally found in captive breeding, the 2 major breeds of boas that are common among breeders are Red-tail boas (Boa constrictor constrictor) and Northern boas (Boa Constrictor Imperator). They are quite docile in temperament and and live comfortably in humid temperature, after taming they become quiet and calm pets. 

Boa is a nocturnal species that’s active at night and sleeps at day. It is fairly a low maintenance snake and doesn’t require much care in daily routine and their dietary feeds are on the mark. They are non-venomous snakes, so the only self-defense is their inherent strength, they coil around the prey, wrap tightly around the jawline, squeezing, finally crashing the bones.  

Behavior and Temperament

Boas are typically active, alert and prefer seclusion by burrowing themselves in medium sized mammal holes, by doing so they hide from their potential predators. The younger boas (like semi-arboreal) are good swimmers, climbing into trees and shrubs to forage. As it gets older, boas become more terrestrial. 

While living among people, boas tend to agitate when mishandled. So, it’s important to know how to hold in the right way, so it feels secure and free. Boas are quite temperamental and need time to get along. It often loosely wraps around you for more comfort and only constricts when it feels alarmed (like falling or manhandling). 

Humidity and Temperature

The origin of boas is from tropical rainforests that have lower humidity range of 60-70%. And prefers warm temperature in the enclosure. During the day, it must be maintained at 82-90o F, at night 78-85o F. 

The temperature of hot spots (where snake movements are highest) should be between 90-95o F.  

The temperature of hotspots (where snake movements are maximum) should be between 90-95o F. The enclosure environment should be held at high regards as such 

  • Providing a combination of incandescent bulbs, ceramic heating elements and heat pads. 
  • Sun barking is the common habit of snakes, which provides Vitamin D in sunlight,
  • Placing a bowl of water in the enclosure will raise humidity and bring along mist around.

Boa constrictors, like many snakes, need specific types of bedding to keep their tanks clean and their bodies healthy. Unfortunately, there are hundreds and hundreds of products out there, all claiming to be the best.

The best bedding for boa constrictors needs to be clean and natural. Free of mites and chemicals, the substrate needs to form a 2″ inch layer on the bottom of the tank. It needs to help retain heat and humidity while also being something the boa constrictor will burrow into.

What good bedding for boa constrictors needs to include?


The material of a substrate is an essential element to consider. Not everything works well with boa constrictors. Keep in mind, the park instructor is semi-arboreal and usually lives in forest-tropical areas. Your substrate in captivity should emulate what they have in their natural forest floor. Shavings from trees or fibers are always good options.


The other primary concern for boa constrictor bedding is how clean the material is. You might feel like you’re saving money by going to your local hardware store to buy some wood chips. But these wood chips are often treated with chemicals. So, it might not seem like it at first, but when the material gets wet, it often leaks these chemicals. It causes the boa constrictor skin to get irritated and possibly infected; these chemicals may kill your pet. The substrate from reputable pet dealers will always be clean and free of chemicals.

Heat And Moisture Retention

One of the great benefits of a substrate, especially for boa constrictors, is how some will help retain heat and humidity in the tank. Boas need a large space, especially when fully grown. It takes a lot of healing power to keep the tank where it needs to be. It’s the same with humidity.

Help With Droppings

One of the main reasons to get bedding from the owner’s perspective is to help with cleaning up poop. The good substrate will clump up around the droppings and make clean-up easier. The really good substrate may even begin to disinfect and kill the bacteria from the droppings. This is usually due to a higher quality material such as coconut fibers or coco chips.  

Boa constrictors, at minimum, need an enclosure equal to the length long and half the length wide and high. The floor space should be covered with 2″ inches of substrate. This adds up to a lot of material quickly. Take, for example, an average bola constrictor at 8′ feet long. This means you’ll need floor space covered of at least 8′ x 4′ feet or 32′ ft.² of floor covering. Then, you need to cover this whole area with 2″ inches of substrate. Balance quality with your budget, but pick from our list, and you likely won’t be disappointed in either area.

Common options for boa constrictor bedding include:

Aspen shavings

Aspen bedding is one of the most common pets and snake substrates. It’s clean and free of mites or other bugs. It is a chemical free bedding option for your pet. The aspen provides something for the boa constrictor to burrow in. It holds on to heat and absorbs droppings. The only thing it doesn’t handle well is getting wet. Aspen shaving bedding is highly absorbent and tends to collect mold when wet. The aspen bedding doesn’t block the smells of droppings and other snake related things well.


·   Safe and suitable for burrowing

·   Retains heat well

·   A large amount of substrate providing good value


·   Absorbs too much when wet

·   May tend to mold when wet

Coconut fibers

Coconut makes an excellent substrate and is popular with reptile owners for several reasons. Coconut fibers absorb droppings well and break down bacteria and odours. Coconut fibers respond well to moisture and help maintain a steady level of humidity in the air. This is an entirely chemical-free and safe bedding option for your pet. It doesn’t hold on to heat as much as a substrate with more substance to them, but the difference is minimal. It doesn’t tend to mold and lasts a long time.


·   Long-lasting

·   Trap’s droppings and breaks down odours

·   Excellent at retaining humidity


·   Higher price for the amount of substrate

Coco chips

Coco chip bedding is similar to a standard coconut fiber substrate. It has many of the same benefits, including odour-reducing, clean and safe, and suitable for retaining humidity. The coco chips are coconut fibers broken down smaller and more fine compared with the typical coconut bedding. This helps make the coco chips better at retaining heat. However, it does make it messier to deal with.


·   Retains heat and humidity well

·   Good for burrowing

·   Trap’s droppings and reduces odours


·   May be too small for baby boa constrictors

Your boa constrictor needs you to make sound choices for its environment in order to guarantee a healthy and happy life. Remember, safety and cleanliness from good materials made by reputable dealers are the most important things to watch for.

choosing best litter for your catsCategoriesCat Littter Bedding Coco Coir Bedding Pets Bedding

Choosing Best Litter for your Cats

If you’re thinking about adopting a cat or kitten, it’s important when setting up to spend time finding the perfect litter for you and your pet.

Your cat may already be accustomed to a certain type of litter, so discuss with the previous owner or donation shelter what type they use and your cat’s toileting behaviour. This is a great starting point, even if you end up trying a different kind of litter at a later date. Cats are clean and tidy animals.

Your cat’s preference may revolve around how sensitive their paws are, or they may just prefer one type of litter more than another.

Choosing litter for your cat

There are many different types of litter, but generally they can be split into two categories – clumping and non-clumping. Clumping litter absorbs moisture more quickly so you can scoop and remove the clumps when they form. The box will still need a thorough clean at times though. Non-clumping litter absorbs moisture more slowly and has ingredients that eliminate unpleasant smells. This type of litter needs changing and cleaning at least once a week. Choosing between a clumping or non-clumping litter is a great place to start.

Types of Cat Litter

Clay – Quick clumping

The most common types of cat litters are clay-based, which can either be clumping or non-clumping. The reason why clay litters are so popular is that they are really good at absorbing urine and neutralizing the smell. Also, most cats will instinctively use this litter and you won’t have to train them. It is available in both scented and unscented varieties.


·       Clumps quickly for easy clean-up

·       Good odour control

·   Typically needs to be changed less frequently than other litters


·   Not biodegradable and may create dust

Corn – Natural clumping

Corn is another type of litter available on the market. Admittedly this is one type I am a bit hesitant to try as I am skeptical at how well it actually works, and I’m scared it’ll make my house smell like a barn. But nevertheless, brands like World’s Best are gaining popularity and are made from corn. They’re also formulated to be clumping too, so it can last longer. It is available in natural and scented varieties


·       Dust-free

·       Biodegradable and earth-conscious


·   May be pricier than other litters

Coconut Husk – Clumps lightly

Coconut litter, made from coconuts, is an eco-friendly option with no added scents. It has good urine absorption qualities but cannot mask ammonia odours for long. It also contains no dust. It is natural scent


·       Dust-free

·       Biodegradable and earth-conscious

·       Made from a renewable resource

·       Compostable


·   May be more difficult to find than more traditional cat litters

Wheat – Natural clumping

Litter is made from wheat. It is especially for cats who are sensitive to scents or dust. It is available in natural and scented varieties


·       Naturally clumping and odor- absorbing

·       Dust-free

·       Biodegradable and earth-conscious


·   May not clump as firmly as clay litter

·   Must be stored carefully to prevent pests

Wood / Pine – Does not clump

Litter made of wood like pine pellets is another material some cat litters are made out of. Pine pellet litter absorbs liquid super well and then turns to sawdust, so you only have to sift out the sawdust and can keep the unused pellets. It is natural scent


·       Natural pinewood by-product

·       Natural deodorizer

·       Dust-free

·       Environmentally safe and biodegradable

·       Can be used for landscape mulch and composting


·       Some pet parents may find pine scent too strong

Walnut Shell – clumping and non-clumping varieties

The litter is made from 100% walnut shell. That’s as natural as it gets without turning your place into a jungle.

The walnut shells organically neutralize odour better than any other natural litter and absorb three times better than clay litter. That works for both of you. It is natural scent


·       Highly absorbent

·       Biodegradable and made from a renewable resource

·       Low dust, low tracking


·   May not clump as easily as clay litter

 Recycled Paper – Does not clump

Another semi-popular alternative to clay is using recycled paper. The materials like old newspapers, phone books, and magazines are turned into paper pellets. These are supposedly highly absorbent and control odour while being safe and non-toxic for your kitties. It is unscented


·       Eco-conscious

·       Dust-free

·       More affordable than most natural litters

·       Great for cats recovering from surgery


·   Less odour control than other litters

·   Not flushable or compostable

·   May need more frequent changes than other litters

Silica – Does not clump

Crystal litter is made of silica gel, which absorbs liquids much better than traditional clay litter and traps in odours.

It does not clump urine, but the crystals are able to trap urine on the inside, and the outside stays dry. The litter box won’t become a giant mushy wet mess like with traditional litters, and it traps in the pee odour so well you only need to switch out the litter entirely once per month. It is available in scented and unscented varieties


·   Highly absorbent

·   Can be reused over a period of one month

·   Trackless and dust-free


·   May be more expensive than other litters

·   Some cats may not like the feel of crystal litter on their paws

best pet snake beddingCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding Snake Bedding

Bedding Choice for Pet Snakes

Are you looking for the best bedding for your snakes? Are you wandering which bedding type suits your snake? Irrespective of ball python, corn snake or garter snake you raise, each needs a comfortable place to dwell. 

Snakes are the sensitive beings that opt for soft-cushiony substrate under them. A smooth, non-abrasive and a highly absorbent bedding is what the serpents like the most. 

But some folks, there are few misconceptions on bedding snakes, they say ‘snakes are likely to use bedding the same as any other reptiles’. While the truth is, Snakes go well with any different kinds of beddings. 

Let’s us have a brief look over different types of bedding available for snakes, 

Cypress Mulch

Cypress mulch is the most widely accepted snake bedding ever. It renders a comfortable, nice look when spread along. It gives off great burrowing experience for snakes, and is easy to clean. It also retains moisture well, and maintains the right humidity as required by the snakes.   

Mats and mices cypress mulch as much as snakes, so need to look after the prevent those rodents from reaching out for the stored bedding. It also happens that, there exists mites and eggs in the loads of mulches all together. Then you might need to boil it or freeze the stock before using it.   


·   Great for burrowing snakes,

·   Maintains right humidity,

·   Natural and looks good,

·   Easy to clean and use. 


·   A persistent presence of mites and eggs.

Coconut Husk or Chips

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and outstanding options for snake bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and extremely aerated one to know. It comes in 2 grades, coconut husks for small snakes while chips for larger snakes. 

Its absorbance locks the odor intact, holds moisture longer and maintains humid temperature. You can make use of it as per your requirements. 

For high-humidity snakes, you can use it directly without hydrating the compressed chip blocks while for low-humid seeking snakes, you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces and spread it along the container.

Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergen, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable. 


·       Takes care of humidity,

·       100% natural and organic,

·       Suitable for low and high humid snakes,

·       User and pocket friendly. 


·   Not too advisable for borrowing ones, 

·   Can be dusty sometimes. 

Aspen Shavings

One of the best suited bedding for burrowing snakes are Aspen shavings. Like any other wood shaving bedding, aspen shavings help control odor, regulate humidity. 

Aspen shavings are the best substrate for burrowing. Like other wood beddings, they are good at controlling odours, but also susceptible to mites. Aspen shavings are not good for high humidity, since they can get moldy easily.

The fine particles can also get underneath the scales of larger snakes and cause irritation, so we would only use this for smaller snakes. Make sure the brand you choose is natural and does not use any dyes or other chemicals.

We actually recommend combining aspen shavings with coconut husk for snakes that need humid conditions, but also like to burrow. That way you get the best of both worlds.


·   Best bedding for burrowing

·   Natural look and feel

·   Odour control


·   Not good for large snakes

·   Not good in humid environments

·   Can get dusty

Fir Bark

Fir bark is another wood-based substrate and makes a good alternative to cypress mulch. They are very similar. As such, it is also susceptible to mites, but works great as bedding. It retains humidity well, is good for burrowing and keeps odors at bay. It is also easy to clean up.


·   Great for burrowing

·   Great for maintaining humidity

·   Natural look and feel

·   Easy to clean


·   Mites thrive in fir bark

Artificial Turf or Carpet

Artificial turf and carpeting can work well, but they have some obvious disadvantages that make them suitable only for certain species. Turf is preferable to carpet, since it mimics grass, but carpet scraps are generally cheaper.

The biggest disadvantage is that they obviously do not allow for burrowing, making them bad choices for snakes that like to dig. They also do nothing for humidity levels. Another problem is that they will absorb the odour of feces and urine over time.

You should always have at least 2 sets available, so that you can swap them out when one gets soiled to wash it. Even if you wash it well and immediately after the “incident”, a little bit of the smell sticks each time and it will keep growing. Eventually, you will have to completely replace the carpet or turf.


·   Can be washed and reused multiple times (but not indefinitely)

·   Easy to clean


·   Will start to smell

·   Does not allow burrowing

·   Does not absorb moisture or help in regulating humidity

Newspaper Or Paper Towels

Newspaper is the cheapest option by far. Paper towels are similar, but end up costing about the same as other types of bedding.

Paper-based substrate is easy to clean (simply replace it), but it does not allow for burrowing and is obviously very susceptible to moisture. It also doesn’t look great in the enclosure, which may or may not matter to you.


·   Newspaper is free

·   Easy to clean


·   Does not allow burrowing

·   Will need to be replaced if it gets too wet, so it does nothing for humidity regulation


Sand is a more aesthetically pleasing substrate for snakes than newspaper or paper towels. You can purchase it at pet shops in a wide variety of colours to fit into your decorative scheme.

Snakes can burrow in sand, but it’s bad for your snake if the sand is swallowed. Ingested sand causes impaction and grains of sand can get under the snake’s scales. This bedding also gets soiled very quickly and must be completely replaced. Weigh its visual appeal against the potential problems.

best reptile pets beddingCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding

Choosing Best Bedding for your Reptile Pets

We usually regard the well being of our pets in all aspects, including their feeds, health, rest but sometimes we unknowingly disregard the fact that pets are by fact animals that prefer natural surroundings rather than our superficial arrangements like artificial plaything, cushion beds and more.

Creating natural-safe environments is the foremost thing you do for your pets, and choosing a safer-healthier-organic bedding ranks first in it. 

Reptile pets seek more natural habitat for themselves than any other pets. Most of the reptiles prefer beddings of nesting material and fluffy under foot in terrariums. 

Reptiles appreciate a warm and mild humidity living environment the most. And choosing a bedding with the right attribute will make a bigger impact on their daily well-being and as well their lifespan. 

Variety of Reptile bedding choices on stores are, 

Bark Blends

The bark blends are perfect enough to encourage the burrowing nature of reptiles. It promotes free movement of air and retaining moisture, which is essential for pet’s habitats. Bark blends eliminate insects and pests,  being more absorbent and maintain humidity inside out.


·   Promotes heat transfer and regualtes moisture inside the enclosure,

·   100% organic, made out of natural bark,

·   Easy to eliminate pests,

·   Ideal bedding depth of about 1 to 2 inches, remove-replace bedding whenever needed,

·   Ideal for chameleons, frogs, snakes, skinks and rainforest geckos.

Coarse Blends

These coarse blend bedding are 100 % natural walnut shell grounds. Light-weighted, non-abrasive, gives off a smooth texture. This kind of blend acts as an excellent heat conduction substrate and is suitable for desert reptiles.


·   Grounded walnut shells replicate best desert environment,

·   Non-abrasive unlike sand,

·   Stimulates natural digging and burrowing behaviour,

·   Ideal bedding depth of about 1 to 2 inches, remove-replace bedding monthly,

·   Ideal for desert dwelling reptiles such as: adult bearded dragons, monitors and desert skinks.

Fine Blends

A fine blend for snakes and lizards are absolutely soft textured and chosen by professional herpetologists. The fully processed fine blended chips are ultra absorbent and hypo allergen that are 100% safe and natural.


·   Recommended grade for snakes and lizards,

·   Soft and smooth texture,

·   Hypo-allergenic, and are safe and natural,

·   User-friendly-easy to clean and use,

·   Ideal for snakes, monitors, skinks and geckos.

Coconut Husk

A 100% natural, organic compressed coco coir pith that expands 10x times when hydrated. It makes up an ideal environment for reptiles for laying eggs and encourages burrowing. It maintains humid temperatures, regulates air in and out, and retains moisture longer than others.


·   100% natural, organic, made of coconut fiber,

·   Highly absorbent, retains moisture longer and expands upto 10x times of its volume,

·   Keeps terrarium humid and provides superior aeration,

·   Ideal bedding depth of about 1 to 2 inches, remove-replace bedding whenever needed,

·   Ideal for chameleons, rainforest geckos, frogs, toads and egg incubation.

Terrarium Liners

A roll down carpet, specially designed to lay inside the enclosure/terrarium. Made out of highly absorbent, non-abrasive material which is soft to pet’s feet. Treated with biodegradable enzymes to keep reptiles in check. And a reusable one. You can cut and adjust to the size of your enclosure and it is safe even if the reptiles ingest the liners. 


·   Requires less maintenance, cut to the size of your need,

·   Safe even the reptiles ingested them, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles,

·   Treated to reduce odours,

·   Easy to clean, non-abrasive material that is soft to feet of reptiles,

With these as said, we hope all our fellow reptile pet lovers enjoyed reading an optimal bedding choices for your beloved pets ????

Please feel free to leave us comments, suggestion and cues on interested topics you wanna read.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Manure Management Worm Bedding

5 Bedding Reasons for Worms

Growing worms in your compost is the very best idea for an ideal composition and nutrient breakdown. The worms composting the soil date back than our knowledge of fertilizing. 

Worms are the living resource for fertility and life essence. Worms feed on decaying organic matter, digest it and transform into nutrient-rich fertilizer in a span of 2 months. 

The derived fertilizer is odorless and neutralized, which means, pH of the casting is neutral (7), without foul odor. The casting contains bacteria in it, which continues its biological activity even when put into soil.

As such, comforting the worms in its surroundings is of top priority. Maintaining a healthy system will need you a better shelter, warm temperature, plenty of air, optimal moisture and a perfect bedding composition. 

For our further talk let us consider Red Worms as the topic of interest. Red Worms, or Red Wigglers are the mostly used soil dwelling worms that are commonly found in moist manure and compost heaps. 

They are also the shallow-dwellers that feed on decaying organic matter and are easily adaptable for household and plant wastes actively within worm bins. 

Better Shelter

If you’re making a compost for your own purpose within the organic material produced in your home kitchen, garden and pet feces, then choosing a plastic storage tote is an ideal option. 

You can pick up a tote of depth 12 to 18 inches, and a roundabout surface area of 1 sq ft which can account for 1-2 lb of food and pet wastes.  

To prevent an excessive moisture buildup inside the tote, you need to make proper drainage holes at the around and bottom of the tote. For that, you’re supposed to place the one tote container into the other, so that the other will act as a basin for excessive moisture capture.  

These kinds of drainage holes will provide adequate oxygen supply inside the compost tote. Later some time, you can place the inner tote out of a holed container and place it on wooden plank or PVC feet.

Warm Temperature

As said earlier, the Red worms are the commonly used earthworm species for composting those who are best reared at 65-80o F, which is optimal for active composting. 

Cooler the temperature, slower will be the decomposition rate. 

On the contrary, if the temperature is too warm, it might harm the worm a lot. 

In the months of cooler temperatures, care must be taken to elevate off the tote than concrete floor, rather than letting it affect the decomposition rate. 

Plenty of Air

Worms are the aerobic organisms whose lives mostly depend on the oxygen availability around them. The very existence of worms is determined by absorbing oxygen in and giving out carbon dioxide after metabolism.

So a large surface area of exposure to air is the most. Keep the lid open to your bin, ventilate sufficiently. 

A compact waste deposition or a soggy loading will result in a void of oxygen, producing anaerobic composition. An anaerobic environment renders foul smell, rooting garbage, avoid complete decomposition. 

Optimal Moisture

Worms require optimal moisture maintenance. Both worms and microbial bacterias work in the environment of 60-90% moisture. 

While adding the bedding, it should be pre-moistened like a wet sponge.

The worm bin must be loosely covered with a dark sheet/ burlap on top so that it can conserve moisture within. 

If placed outside, a solid lid is to be covered to prevent unwanted scavengers and rain. 

Perfect Bedding composition  

There are a number of bedding material choices available for worm comfort. Such as shredded newspaper-cardboard, leaf mold-straw, peat moss, coco coir and grits that are used along the manure and animal wastes. 

It is very important to maintain the moisture in the bedding before placing worms over it. An average of 60% moisture is sure for the bedding to be damp but not dripping wet. You can use a Squeeze technique to ensure the right proportion of moisture. 

A perfect blend of 50-50 of shredded paper and coco coir with light dusting of grits is best suited for initial bedding. Or, 25% of shredded newspaper, 25% coco coir, 25% manure mix, 25% mold leaves and some light dusting of grits will do well. 

You can put the bedding in advance of worm composting. By doing so, you create an active environment for introducing worms in. 

You can even add some compost tea/ worm casting/ mature compost at the bottom of the bin. In that way, you will promote inoculation microbial growth in new bedding. This pre-inoculation will reduce the transition stress suffered by the worms when transferred to new bedding. 

All these key features are benefited by the choice of bedding in worm composting!