CategoriesPet caring and Habitat

Vaccination for Dogs:

Dogs, being one of the most loving pets, rely upon you for almost everything. It is your duty to provide the requirements and take care of your dog. When it comes to vaccination, it is very important to follow and stick to the vaccination schedule of the dog for its healthy long life. 

Happy puppy dog smiling on isolated yellow background.

Core vaccines and Non-core vaccines:

Dog vaccination is not only for the protection of dogs but also for the humans, as the dogs may transmit disease to their human companions. The pet owner should be aware of the two important classes of dog vaccines.Core  vaccines and Non-core vaccines.

Core Vaccine: Core vaccines should be given to all the dogs to prevent fatal diseases. This includes Canine distemper, adenovirus, hepatitis, Rabies vaccine, Parvovirus

Non-core vaccines: These are given based on different factors like the lifestyles, location, risk of exposure to the infection etc. It is better to always take advice from the veterinarian about the type of vaccines to be administered to your dogs. This includes Bordetella Bronchiseptica vaccine, Leptospirosis vaccine, Parainfluenza vaccine, Lyme vaccine, influenza vaccine.

Risks/Side effects associated with vaccination:

 Swelling may be seen at the injected spot, fever, loss of hair, nausea, decreased appetite, diarrhea etc. In some of the rare cases seizures, breathing problems, and unconsciousness are seen.

Which Shots Do Puppies Need?

It is always better to visit the veterinarian regularly in order to maintain the good health of the puppy and it’s long life. And it is always better to know about the diseases and the vaccinations given to avoid the diseases.

Let’s understand the diseases and it’s causes and symptoms.

Canine Distemper

It is a disease which attacks  respiratory, gastrointestinal and nervous systems of dogs and also certain other animals. It is caused by a virus usually spread through sneezing or coughing from an infected animal. It is also spread by food and water. Symptoms like fever, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, paralysis and also causes death. Canine distemper cannot be cured, the symptoms or the secondary infections are treated.

Canine Hepatitis

An extremely infectious disease caused by a virus which mainly affects the dog’s upper respiratory tract, liver, lungs, kidneys, spleen and also eyes. Symptoms like fever, vomiting, mucous membrane congestion, swelling of the stomach, jaundice are seen. Mild form of the disease can be cured but severe form results in death. 


Parvovirus is also an infectious disease which causes severe vomiting, dehydration, lethargy and sometimes death. The virus affects the GI system and results in bloody diarrhea. 

Canine Parainfluenza

This is a viral disease which causes kennel cough.


Rabies is a mammalian disease caused by a virus which attacks CNS and causes headache, hallucinations, fear of water, paralysis and death. Rabies is generally transmitted through the bite of an infected animal. Immediate treatment can avoid death and regular vaccination is necessary.

Bordetella Bronchiseptica

A highly infectious disease caused by a bacterium which mainly results in symptoms like coughing, vomiting, seizures and also death. Kennel cough is mainly caused by this bacterium. Injectables  and nasal spray vaccines are available.


This is caused by bacteria including  fever, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, abdominal pain, lethargy, infertility, kidney failure as the symptoms and  in some cases the dogs don’t show any kind of symptoms. A zoonotic disease which gets  better if treated sooner with antibiotics.

Lyme Disease

Lyme disease is caused by a bacterium called spirochete. Usually transmitted through ticks. Symptoms like swelling in the lymph nodes, fever, loss of appetite are seen. It affects the heart, kidney and other vital organs. Antibiotics can be used in the treatment.

Kennel Cough

The inflammation in the upper airways results in Kennel cough. Also known as tracheobronchitis. It can be caused by bacterial, viral, or other infections, such as Bordetella and canine parainfluenza. Mild to severe cough, especially dry cough is seen and is rarely fatal. Cough suppresants can be used to treat this.

Puppy’s Vaccination Schedule:

Here is the list which gives you the information about the vaccines that are to be given at a certain age of your dog.

Puppy’s ageCore vaccinesNon-core Vaccines
6-8 weeksDAP (Distemper, Adenovirus/Hepatitis, Parvovirus.)Bordetella Bronchiseptica
10-12 weeksDHPP (vaccines for distemper, adenovirus [hepatitis], parainfluenza, and parvovirus)Bordetella, Leptospirosis,  Lyme Influenza
14-16 weekDHPP, RabiesBordetella, Leptospirosis,  Lyme Influenza
1-2 yearsDHPP, RabiesBordetella, Leptospirosis,  Lyme Influenza
3 yearsRabies

Vaccinations for Adult Dogs: 

Most veterinarians believe that the adult dogs may attain health risks if too many vaccines are given. However, to be on safer side titer tests are performed to determine which of the vaccines are required to be given. But when it comes to rabies, the vaccine has to be given regularly according to the law passed by the United States.


In the end, it’s all worth it. Your dog’s health and long life is more important and the efforts that you put in matters the most. We hope you find this helpful and do check out our recent blog Why should reptiles kept away from children?

CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks Uncategorized

Why Should Reptiles Kept Away From Children?

Reptiles are excellent pets, but a precautious measure has to be taken for the safety concerns of kids.

Good habits are best acquired at an early age, as is usually the case. Teach your children to treat animals with respect from the start. They will receive years of enjoyment from their reptile pals after they comprehend basic reptile etiquette.

Reptiles are delicate creatures that can easily become frightened if not handled appropriately. Kids, in particular, might inadvertently rough-handle and irritate a reptile pet, thus additional caution should be exercised anytime children handle these kind of animals.

Basically, you should keep deadly reptiles away from kids and keep them locked up. Teach correct handling techniques. Respect for reptiles must be taught to children. Even while part of this behaviour may be appropriate among cats and dogs, they cannot shake, tug, or crush the animal. In self-defense, reptiles may lash out. Choose the appropriate reptile. Humans, especially youngsters, are not fond of handling lizards. On the other hand, certain snake species are more tolerant to youngsters. Geckos are among the most kid-friendly creatures. Chameleons and frogs, in particular, are unsuitable for handling. Claws should be trimmed. Although reptiles are less susceptible to having their claws clipped than cats or dogs, it is possible to keep your youngster from being scratched if you do so. Claws of iguanas, in particular, should be cut on a regular basis.

Health Risks To Your Child

Salmonella and botulism are two diseases and illnesses that reptiles may transfer on to your child. These are the most serious dangers.
Salmonella is a bacterial infection. Diarrhoea, vomiting, headaches, fever and stomach cramps are all symptoms of the sickness. It can also cause dehydration and blood infections. Salmonella is a threat to reptiles of all kinds. Handwashing helps to lessen the danger.

Botulism is a dangerous and potentially fatal illness. Clostridium is the germ that causes it. It causes death and paralysis. Clostridium is a common bacteria found in reptiles. Botulism is especially dangerous to babies and infants under the age of one. Botulism is caused by bacteria that are widespread in aquatic reptiles. Reptiles that dwell in water, such as turtles, are examples of aquatic responses.

Keeping Clean Around Reptiles Can Help To Reduce Health Risk

You should presume that at least one dangerous germ has infected your reptile. After coming into touch with reptiles, wash your hands and your child’s hands. After handling your reptile or anything it has touched, avoid touching your mouth. Wait till you’ve thoroughly washed your hands. Teach your youngster to follow in your footsteps. Reptiles should not be allowed in any place where food is produced or consumed. Wash the surfaces wherein the reptile has come in contact, with hot water. Your reptile should only be washed in its own basin. Never ever waste water and faeces should be flushed down the toilet or poured down the drain. When cleaning tanks, cages, and equipment, always use disposable gloves and wash your hands afterward. Clean any clothing that has come into touch with your reptile in a hot wash.

Reasons why kids should have pets

Pets Teach Empathy To Kids 

Young children are frequently self-centered. The good news is that knowing how to properly care for a pet can aid in the development of empathy in youngsters. Children will discover how their pets react to changes in their habitat and room environment as they care for them. Indeed, you might be amazed at how fast youngsters learn up on their new pet’s likes and dislikes. Having a pet allows youngsters to view things through the eyes of a pet, which is a precursor to seeing things through the eyes of people.

Pets Teach Responsibility To Children 

Taking care of an animal creates responsible instincts in your children. Even if your child is extremely small, he or she will be able to fill a dish with food or water. As your child becomes increasingly capable of caring for their pet, you may gradually give them greater responsibility.

Pets Build Confidence Into Children 

Caring for a pet may be your child’s first “job.” Your youngster will realise how capable they are with responsibility if they complete their task effectively. This will boost their confidence and, hopefully, provide them with additional opportunities to demonstrate their responsibilities.


Introducing children to a variety of animals at a young age and educating them about them helps to teach compassion and respect for every living creatures, as well as refute and address unreasonable concerns. Only animals with an anxious or violent disposition are not allowed. That would apply to all species, not only reptiles and invertebrates.

CategoriesHorse Bedding Lifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Tips & Tricks

Why Do Horses Make Great Companion?

A pet is a highly vital component of many people’s families, and having one in your life is extremely beneficial. Most people, on the other hand, automatically think of dogs or cats when they think of pets. Horses, on the other hand, are fantastic pets with which you may form great bonds. They are, among other things, incredibly nice, lively, and intelligent, and make excellent company.

The Benefits Of Keeping A Horse

Horses Are Beautiful Per Definition

Horses are the ideal pets because they are so breathtakingly gorgeous. Even though horses might be rather large, there is something lovely and delicate about their look. As a result, when you have a horse rushing around, you’ll probably be unable to comprehend exactly how powerful but beautiful they are; they truly are a sight to behold!

Horses Are Extremely Low-Maintenance Animals.

Horses are also extremely low-maintenance compared to other forms of pets. Of course, you’ll still have to look after your horse on a regular basis, but they’re quite self-sufficient creatures. So, in order to keep your horse happy, you won’t have to spend every minute of every day with them. As long as you provide your horse the love, respect, and care he or she deserves, they will revere the ground you walk on, which is why horses make such wonderful pets!

Horses Live For A Long Life

Thousands of individuals see horses as highly valuable friends in a society where the majority of people conceive of a companion pet as a cat or a dog. Companionship, therapy, leisure, and sport are just a few of the numerous advantages of owning a horse. Horse ownership may be extremely gratifying if the obligations of ownership are well considered.

Horses have a long lifetime, which is another advantage of having them as pets. Stabled horses typically live for more than 20 years, and even longer if well cared for.

Horses Are Quite Simple To Manage

Horses are quick to pick up new skills and rapidly understand how to be controlled. They will rapidly become sensitive to instruction with proper training and consistent care. A mare or pony, rather than a stallion, would be a better choice for a family pet because stallions are more strong-willed and better suited to breeding than as pets.

Horses Are Easy To Feed

Although most people believe that a huge animal such as a horse requires more care, they are actually quite easy to feed and keep healthy since they are not finicky. Grass is the greatest meal for any horse, although it can be supplemented with hay if grass is scarce.

Horses May Be A Lot Of Fun To Care For.

Brushing a horse’s coat on a regular basis will bring out its natural lustre. Rather than being a chore, this may frequently be converted into a pleasurable experience. Even the most difficult tasks, such as bathing or foot washing, may be made enjoyable. Whatever work has to be done, it’s all part of the fun of having and caring for a pet.

Horses Are A Lot Of Joy To Be Around

How many pets can carry you for miles on their backs, through routes and into places you’d never go? Horses are entertaining to be around, and owning one as a companion pet will provide hours of entertainment for children. Horses can be loving, making the “companion” aspect of your connection with your horse even more delightful.

While owning a horse comes with a lot of responsibility, it can also provide a lot of joy and happiness to individuals and families, while also bringing people closer to the joys of life via the ownership of a loyal companion pet.


Overall, there are several advantages to owning a horse as a pet. Even more, there are a thousand more reasons why horses are the ideal pets, and the ones listed above are simply the most important ones! The only thing you need to remember is that horses need to be treated with the highest respect, and if you remember that, they will be the best friends you could ever have!

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Snake Bedding Snake Habitat Tips & Tricks

Housing For Your Pet Snake

Learning how to care for your first snake is a rewarding experience, and one that is required if you want to ensure your snake’s health and well-being. Before bringing a snake into your house, think about how big it will get and what size cage it would need for its environment.

Everything else will be a lot easier if you have the correct cage for your snake. The improper cage, on the other hand, might become a problem, allowing your pet to escape or making it unduly tough to govern his environment.

Cage Environment

Most snakes may be divided into three groups based on their cage size. Garter and grass snakes may be housed in a 10 gallon or 20 gallon aquarium with ease. In 30-55 gallon tanks, king snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes, gopher snakes, and other colubrids will thrive. It’s a different storey with boa constrictors and pythons. Adult boas and pythons often range in length from 18 inches to 32 feet. Some of them are above 500 pounds. Custom cages are required for these huge creatures. Consider making your own cage out of plywood or melamine if you are skilled in the industrial arts. Custom cages and kits are widely available if you don’t want to build your snake’s habitat.

Types Of Vivarium

Wooden Vivariums

Wooden vivariums are among the most affordable and dependable cages for snakes. They usually come in a variety of “standard” sizes, either flat-packed or pre-built. Buying a flat-pack version is frequently advantageous for anybody with some basic DIY abilities, since they are straightforward to assemble yet are often easier to move flat, as well as being cheaper.


  • Most specialist reptile stores have wooden vivariums on hand.
  • They’re sturdy, adaptable, and fairly priced, and they look great if you pick a style that matches the rest of your furniture.
  • Drilling holes for electrics like heaters and lighting is normally quite straightforward with wooden vivariums, and the wooden construction also means that they maintain their heat effectively.
  • If you reside in a colder climate, this is perfect since you will be able to keep your snake warmer with less heating.


  • Wooden vivariums are often heavy, making transportation difficult.
  • Ventilation in wooden vivariums might be a problem. Snakes enjoy fresh air and can become ill if they are deprived of it. Choose a wooden snake viv that has air holes if you want to keep your snake alive.
  • If left too wet, wooden vivariums can distort and decay. This implies that any water spilled within the cage should be soaked up as quickly as possible so that it does not seep into the wood and cause difficulties. Because most snakes prefer a drier environment, this is unlikely to be an issue for lizard owners.

Plastic Vivariums

While wooden vivariums are still the most prevalent type of snake housing, there are a growing number of plastic vivariums on the market. It should be emphasised that if you want to investigate this option, you should attempt to find one that is especially intended for snakes rather than any other type of pet. The ventilation openings will be kept tiny to prevent escape, and the overall proportions will be long and low, allowing your snake to roam around freely.


  • Plastic vivariums are lighter and stronger than wooden cages, making them much easier to move about. You won’t need a substantial stand, table, or cabinet to put them on either.
  • Because of their ease of cleaning, plastic vivariums are sanitary. The germs and parasites may be readily removed from the moulded plastic vivariums using a towel and reptile-safe cleaning spray. In contrast, parasites or germs can persist in the seams between the panels in hardwood vivariums.


  • Fitting electrics to a polyethylene tank is difficult. This is because, depending on the style you choose, you may need to either drill holes for electrical lines to poke through or remove plugs from your heaters and lights so that the cables may be carefully fed through the pre-drilled holes.
  • Plastic vivariums can be much more costly than wooden vivariums of comparable size. Before deciding whether the advantages of a plastic vivarium are worth the extra cost, compare costs carefully.

Glass Vivariums

Specially built glass vivariums for reptiles have become increasingly popular in recent years. These tanks are usually made entirely of glass, with two hinged doors at the front for easy access. These doors can save time and effort by removing the need to raise lids or move glass panels for normal maintenance and feeding. This can also mean that you can stack glass vivariums on top of one another in some designs, allowing for an extremely space-efficient method to keep your snakes.


  • The most elegant and professional-looking kind of housing is glass vivariums. They not only look good, but they also give outstanding visibility. An all-glass vivarium, unlike most wooden or plastic vivariums, has glass viewing windows on the front that offer vision from all sides.
  • This not only gives you a unique perspective of your pet, but it also allows you to keep an eye on it and do health checks without having to take it out.


  • Glass vivariums are heavy and can break if dropped or bumped while being transported. If you reside in a cold region, their all-glass structure might make it difficult to keep them warm in the winter; after all, heat can readily move through the glass surface.
  • Electrics can be a problem to install in glass vivariums for snakes; after all, one can barely drill a hole in the side to put an electric wire through.

Converted Glass Tanks

A converted glass aquarium is one last form of snake vivarium that is still encountered in the pet trade from time to time. Essentially, an unwanted fish tank may be used, and a reptile-safe lid can be purchased to cover the top and keep it secure. Although many individuals abandon the notion over time owing to impracticalities, this is typically a very cost-effective approach to keep snakes in captivity.


  • Converting a glass tank is a simple process. Even in locations where there are few reptile stores, the majority of individuals will be able to obtain an aquarium. Even better, purchasing a used cage may save you a lot of money and provide you with a perfect cage for a low cost.
  • A proper cover must be constructed. These may usually be ordered at a reasonable price on the internet.


  • Since converting a glass tank is so difficult, you’ll want to think about where you’ll put your vivarium. However, this is a minor flaw that is usually obscured by the two greater difficulties at hand.
  • Electrics might be tricky to install in all-glass aquariums like this one for snakes.
  • If you want to utilise an old aquarium as a reptile cage, you’ll have to be creative.
  • These vivariums from above are inconvenient to use. Because you’ll need to be able to remove the lid for any normal maintenance, this limits where you can put the cage.


The best snake vivarium is impossible to find. Each snake keeper has their own preferences, and it’s simply a question of weighing the possibilities available in your location and, using the information provided in this article, determining which solution is most suited to your needs.

CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks

Housing For Pet Reptile

A suitable cage, as well as sources of light, heat, and water, are required for reptiles. Before bringing your pet home, make sure the habitat is entirely ready and safe. Lizards require housing that is both emotionally and physically comfortable. Emotional comfort refers to the animal’s sense of security. Physical comfort implies that the temperature and, to a lesser extent, humidity of your lizard’s cage remain in the same range as when it was born.

It’s much easier to provide such features if you know what kind of lizard you have. Lizards are divided into three groups: those that are large enough to be unaffected by little objects, and those that escape danger.

Lizards that are too huge to be maintained by a hobbyist, let alone legally protected, are too enormous to be kept by a hobbyist. Running lizards may make advantage of large-scale housing, which allows them to roam and establish territories. Most enthusiasts, however, are unable to provide room-sized enclosures for a trio of 10-inch-long lizards.

Different enclosures are appropriate for different sorts of settings, whether they are separate or used together:

Aquatic terrarium

Aquariums for aquatic reptiles are comparable to aquatic terrariums. A submersible heater, a filter for continuous, easy cleaning, a vented or wire screen on top with a lid or covering for easy ventilation and access; gravel spread on the bottom, a basking light that the reptile cannot reach. A basking area, such as a rock or floating surface; and a comfortable background are all important elements for an aquatic terrarium. Turtles, frogs, newts, water snakes, and salamanders thrive in this type of enclosure.

Semi-aquatic terrarium

Water and land regions are combined in semi-aquatic terrariums. You may use a piece of glass attached with sealed silicon to divide the two regions, or a detachable container for the water. For proper filtration, drainage, and utilisation, the land area should be built in layers. For these substrates, you can use tiny pebbles, moss, bark, or potting soil. A coating of charcoal at the bottom of the substrates can help keep them fresher. Driftwood, moss, pebbles, or plants can be used to provide interest and movement to the terrarium. Choose plants that are appropriate for your pet’s species and size. You may also need to establish a basking area and a thermal gradient in the terrarium, depending on the species. Salamanders, newts, frogs, certain lizards, and turtles thrive in semi-aquatic terrariums.

Woodland terrarium

Woodland terrariums are comparable to semi-aquatic terrariums, except they have a lot less water area. For the water element, just use a bowl. The same substrates can be used again and again. For arboreal creatures, include additional branches, while for terrestrial species, use more pebbles. A heating element and/or full spectrum lighting element may be required, depending on the species. Within this form of enclosure, a temperature gradient is usually required. Frogs, salamanders, snakes, and lizards such as geckos, anoles, and skinks live in forest habitats, as do a variety of other reptiles.

Desert terrarium

Desert terrariums are for reptiles that need to be in a dry, arid environment. Reptile bark, terrarium carpet, or sand can be used as substrates. Cactus or succulents, for example, require little water and are low-humidity plants. You’ll need to incorporate a temperature gradient within the enclosure, as well as a heating element and full spectrum illumination. Chuckwallas, desert iguanas, leopard geckos, and a variety of other lizards are housed in these cages.


A variety of climbing/clambering surfaces not only provides areas for your lizard to explore and hide, but also enhances the appearance of the cage. Because these things must be anchored in the substrate, a cage with just a paper towel or newspaper substrate can only include a water dish and a couple of hide boxes for decoration. Cages with a gravel or mulch bottom provide you a lot more creative freedom when it comes to decorating.

You should limit the cage furnishings for desert lizards to cholla cactus skeletons and rocks. Living plants, especially xeric-adapted ones, have a tendency to add moisture to an already confined habitat. Cactus that are still in their pots can be added by die-hards.

Pothos and dwarf sansevieria, as well as climbing limbs and vertical cork bark slabs, can be added to woodland/jungle species like geckos and iguanas. Branches may be added, but they must be at least 1.5 times the lizard’s diameter to be securely held, and they must be wedged into position so they don’t slip.


If you detect excrement or the tank smells musty, it’s time to clean it.

If the substrate is paper, simply peel it off and spray it with cage cleaning. A cleanser made of one-third alcohol, two-thirds water, and a drop or two of dishwashing detergent works well. Replace the paper substrate and wipe the cage dry with paper towels.

You may simply pick up the dried faeces with a paper towel if you use a gravel or mulch base. Every month or so, replace the substrate, spraying and cleaning the empty cage with the cage cleaner.


Lizards who are protective of their territory are known as caring lizards. You probably won’t be able to offer adequate room for each lizard’s own area now that you’ve pulled your lizard out of the wild. However, you may compensate for the spatial constraints – and provide a hiding spot for a species that hides to avoid danger – by erecting visual barriers.This may be done using genuine or imitation vining plants, small parts of limbs, bits of bark, or conceal boxes. Even if your lizard can’t get away from a possible adversary, whether it’s you or another lizard, the “enemy” won’t be visible. Hide boxes that have been manufactured commercially are easily accessible. The majority of them are variants on a black plastic box with a hole at the front. Ideally, you should offer numerous hide boxes, at least one for each animal, and put them at the cage’s cold and warm ends.


Your lizard need water on a regular basis. A small dish of water or a dish with a bubbler can be used passively to offer this. Bubbler bowls are for lizards who like to drink moving water rather than static water. You may also spray the enclosure’s plants and walls every day or every other day. For arboreal lizards that do not descend to ground level and desert lizards that sip dew drops, misting is utilised. One of the rock or corkbark pieces in the cage, as well as one or two of the tank’s walls, should be misted. Though the lizard rushes up to the misted area and lapping one location after another as if it’s thirsty, mist again after the droplets have vanished. You want your lizard to desire to drink, but not to get dehydrated.

A drip bottle, a water-filled container with a tiny hole in the bottom that rests on top of the cage, is used by some enthusiasts.

Water droplets seep out of the orifice and splash down. Most cages can fit into a clean yoghurt cup. A plant, a water dish, a wood, or a rock can all be placed in the container. Every day, wash and rinse the container well.


To serve as the tank’s flooring, you’ll need to offer a substrate. Substrates come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Paper towels or newspaper, on the one hand, are a simple and inexpensive option. Paper towels are a better choice for little lizards. These lizards are too light to rumple the absorbent towels, which may be readily replaced when they become wet or filthy.

For tiny to bigger lizards, newspapers could work. Although newspaper is absorbent to some extent and tends to lie flat, your lizard will have no walking or running traction due to its slippery surface. Gravel works nicely and can be cleaned easily by putting it in a bucket and hose-washing it.

Mulch that isn’t fragrant is a suitable choice for a substrate. It’s relatively absorbent, has a burrowing surface for tiny lizards to feel secure, has decent traction, and offers the cage a natural appearance. Substrates created from crushed walnut/pecan shells or compressed coconut fibre are similar to mulch but more costly. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.

Here, newspaper is used as a compacted/pelleted product that delivers all of the benefits of mulch and other loose substrates. However, one word of caution: lightweight pelted or granular substrates can be readily consumed with meals. If you’re going to utilise these substrates, place a large flat rock or a small tray on top of them to act as a feeding platform.

Cage carpets, for example, are one-piece substrates that look attractive, give grip, and are often easy to clean. Food that has spilled is readily cleaned up. On the negative side, the carpets are less absorbent than mulch or other loose substrates, and waste is visible.


It will take time, effort, and money to create the ideal home for your reptile, but it will be well worth it when you see your reptile thrive.

CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Basilisk

The basilisk is a lizard native to tropical Central America that is long and thin. It’s usually green or green/blue in colour, with dark stripes running down the back of the tail and across the top of the abdomen. Males of the species are larger and have huge plumes on their heads, along their spines, and down their tails.

The basilisk will spend the most of its time in or among trees that are located over or near sources of water. When threatened, it may rear up on two legs and sprint exceedingly fast by utilising its tail to keep itself stable. To evade predators, the basilisk can even dive into water. Among the most intriguing features of this lizard is that it has hydrophobic scales on the underside of its feet, allowing it to run over water for brief periods of time. The lizard earned the moniker “Jesus Christ” as a result of this.

Appearance and Behaviour

Basilisks have a dazzling electric green body with light-blue, white, or grey markings as well as darker stripes. The basilisk’s belly is generally a lighter green than the rest of its body, creating a striking contrast.

Their stability is aided by their broad extremities. They are usually brownish or green, but they can also be vivid green, olive-brown, or tan. Their hybrid lines are duller, and their jaws and parallel strips are cream to yellowish. Newborn pigmentation is comparable to that of adults, except it is often more defined, and they have three lengthwise borders on the neck. The eyes of all generation species are rusty to tan in colour. While climbing, they have extended fingers with sharp studs. Males have larger combs than females, which are supported by growing sensory backbones that include a circular or spiky cranial, rear, and posterior comb.

The average length of a fully grown basilisk is between 24 and 36 inches. A female, which is always somewhat smaller than a male, can reach a height of 18-24′′. The tail is responsible for the majority of the length. The average lifespan of a basilisk is eight to 10 years.

What basking temperatures do basilisks need?

A basking area temperature of 90-95°F and a cool side temperature of 75-80°F are required for basilisks. The temperature in the enclosure should be kept between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Digital probe thermometers should be used to measure temperatures, with probes positioned on the basking spot and the floor on the cool side.

A thick, solid wood branch positioned towards the top should serve as the basking surface. Provide heat by placing a cluster of halogen heat lights on one side of the enclosure to resemble the sun. You’ll need enough lamps to heat an area the size of the lizard’s body evenly. Heat mats, red bulbs, and blue bulbs are ineffective and should be avoided.

The temperature should not drop below 75°F at night. To maintain the minimum air temperature, a lightless heat source, such as a radiant heat panel, can be utilized.

What humidity levels do basilisks need?

Basilisks need a humidity level of 50 to 80 percent. This can be maintained by spraying the vivarium with warm water on a daily basis. If your budget allows, you can purchase a mister or fogger to perform the work for you.

What do Basilisks eat?

Basilisks are omnivorous, which means they need to eat both animal and plant-based diets to receive enough nutrients. They are known to eat tiny creatures like lizards, snakes, fish, rodents, birds, and frogs, as well as fruit and certain fresh greens, despite their preference for insects. Depending on their age, they require different amounts of food:

  • Hatchlings ( < 3 months old): Insects daily
  • Juveniles ( < 16” long): Insects and salad every other day
  • Subadults and adults ( > 16” long): Insects every 3-5 days, salad daily

Provide as much food variety as possible for a healthy, happy, colourful basilisk!

Crickets, discoid roaches, dubia roaches, earthworms, grasshoppers, hornworms, silkworms, mealworms, superworms, snails (captive-bred exclusively), pinkie/fuzzy mice, entire fish, chicks, feeder anoles are all good protein sources for basilisks.


Collard greens, cactus pads, spring mix, arugula, kale, alfalfa, bok choy, carrot greens, spinach, dandelion greens/flowers, hibiscus greens/flowers are also good selections for basilisks.


Fruit should only be consumed as a treat due to its high sugar content. Berries, mango, cantaloupe, and papaya are among the fruits available.

Do basilisks like to be handled?

These lizards are often hesitant to be handled. This is especially true for people who have been caught in the wild. When confronted, they frequently snap or flee and begin leaping from the room’s surfaces, which can indicate wounds and nervousness. These lizards are a secondary alternative if you’re looking for a peaceful and well-managed reptile.

If you intend to touch your Basilisk, you can try to gradually build a connection with the creature. Test feeding a few meals with a pair of tweezers; once they start eating from the tongs, see if they will eat from your palm.

You can begin slowly pulling them up without restricting them once they associate you as the pleasant owner who supplies them; make this close to the area so they don’t damage themselves if they fall off. After nearly a year of building confidence, you’ll notice a major change in their personalities.


To keep your surroundings healthy, do a regular spot clean to catch any excrement or uneaten food. A thorough cleaning should be performed once a month. This entails taking down all decorations as well as the substrate. Clean with a reptile-safe disinfectant and a paper towel. In the same way, you can clean your decorations. Before putting them back in the enclosure, make sure they’re completely dry.

Cleaning should be done during the day so that your lizard can return to the vivarium for at least an hour before the temperature drops for the night.

How much space do green basilisks need?

Basilisks are native to a tropical climate, thus they suffer in the UK’s colder climate and require heating and illumination to survive. We recommend keeping a basilisk in a hardwood vivarium to help maintain temperatures stable and shield against the cold. For an adult, we recommend an enclosure that is as near to 4 x 2 x 3ft as possible due to the temperature gradient required for this species.

When choosing a vivarium, look for one with plenty of huge vents and glass sliding front doors. All of this ventilation should prevent heat from escaping from one side of the enclosure to the other while maintaining a steady temperature in the basking region.

In wide open spaces, young basilisks may feel vulnerable and terrified, so make sure there are plenty of decorations. As the basilisk grows in size and becomes accustomed to its surroundings, these can be removed, giving it more room to roam around and bask within the enclosure.

What substrate is good for basilisks?

The substrate should be soil, soil mixtures, leaf litter, or bark wood chips to keep the environment at the proper humidity level. If you want to make a bio-active enclosure, use a nutrient-dense soil mix and add a drainage layer beneath your substrate. For this lizard, coconut husk is an excellent choice. Calcium sand can also be used.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.

Calcium Sand

Calcium sand is one of the most attractive surfaces for lizards. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages basilisk natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.

Soil Mixture

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Basilisk potential health issue

Even if you’re providing care for your lizard, you should always be on the lookout for disease.

  • Parasites- 

Internal parasites like roundworm and hookworm can be very harmful to reptiles. Contact with another diseased reptile, contaminated objects, or infected food can cause a captive lizard to become parasitized. Lack of appetite and weight loss, regurgitation of meals, changes in behaviour, and loose stool or diarrhoea are all signs of a parasite infection. Make sure the vivarium is clean on a regular basis to avoid parasitic infestation.

  • Metabolic Bone Disease-

Lack of UVB lighting is a common reason. Reptiles are unable to convert calcium without vitamin D3, and they are unable to generate vitamin D3 without adequate UVB illumination. A UVB bulb that covers half to two-thirds of the vivarium will suffice.

  • Vitamin A deficiency-

Vitamin A is obtained from a number of plants in the wild, but it is more difficult to obtain in captivity. Vitamin A is essential for preserving strong vision. Vitamin A is found in most reptile supplement powders and can also be purchased separately.

  • Rostral (nose) Injuries-

The behaviour of nose banging is common in agitated lizards. They dash about the vivarium, slamming their noses against the walls. Open wounds are common and can become infected quickly.


Basilisks can make excellent pets after you are familiar with their basic maintenance and temperament. They may not be the most cuddly of pets, but they are fascinating to watch and have a lengthy lifespan.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

CategoriesHorse Bedding Lifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding

Most Popular Breeds Of Horse

Horses are without a doubt one of humanity’s oldest friends. Horses were mainly tamed and utilised for transportation or labour hundreds of years ago. Horse populations have declined in recent years, but they remain popular.

As a horse enthusiast, you have over 350 breeds to pick from across the world. However, there are five distinct breeds and five broad horse categories that stand out and grab the hearts of horse enthusiasts worldwide. These horses are known for their versatility and pleasant personalities. Depending on your requirements, each variety has its own set of capabilities. A horse will set you back a few hundred dollars, so choose wisely. Here are ten of the most well-known horses.

1. American Quarter Horse

The American quarter horse is one of the most popular and oldest horse breeds in North America. The popularity of the breed derives from its numerous good qualities, such as gentleness, adaptability, attractiveness, speed, agility, and loyalty. Quarter horses are appropriate for all levels of riders and owners since they are sociable and easy to teach. They’ve been race horses, ranch horses, and family pets, among other things. They have a robust structure and come in a variety of hues, the most common of which being sorrel (brownish red). They may weigh anything from 950 to 1,200 pounds. They can reach a maximum size of 14 hands (56 inches) to 16 hands (64 inches). They have a muscular build, a deep chest, and a tiny head with a broad forehead and a flat profile. They have a 25-year lifespan.

2. Arabian Horse

Thousands of years have passed since the Arabian horse was created. It has long been a popular breeding horse due to its stunning appearance and calm temperament. Almost every light horse breed has benefited from the grace, energy, and intelligence of Arabians. Many pony and warmblood breeds may trace their origins back to the athletic Arabian. They may weigh between 800 and 1,000 pounds. They reach a maximum size of 14 hands (56 inches) to 16 hands (64 inches). They have a slim, compact body with a tiny, wedge-shaped head and a long, arching neck. They have a 30-year lifespan.

3. Thoroughbred Horse

Thoroughbreds are North America’s most popular racing horses. This breed is noted for its agility, speed, and enthusiasm, and is classified as a “hot-blooded” horse. It’s a versatile horse that excels in a variety of equestrian disciplines outside racing, including dressage and jumping. Alternatively, it may just exist as a companion animal for pleasure riding. Thoroughbreds may be anything from 15 hands (60 inches) to 17 hands tall (68 inches). The majority of them are about 16 hands (64 inches) tall. They weigh between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds on average. Thoroughbreds are available in every hue of solid equine coat. Bay, brown, chestnut, black, or grey are the most common colours. Coat patterns with more than one hue are often overlooked by breed registries.

4. Appaloosa Horse

Horses with spots have existed for millennia. The Appaloosa is one such spotted horse breed that has captured the hearts of horse enthusiasts for ages. Appaloosas are recognised for being kind, sociable, and devoted friends in addition to their remarkable beauty. They have a strong desire to please, making them an excellent horse breed for equestrians of all levels of expertise. The average height of an Appaloosa horse is 14 hands (56 inches) to 15 hands (60 inches), however some can be a little taller. It weighs between 950 and 1,200 pounds on average. Red roan, blue roan, bay roan, grey, palomino, chestnut, cremello/perlino, grulla, dun, buckskin, black, brown, dark bay, or bay are some of the Appaloosa’s basic colours. Bald, blaze, snip, stripe, and star are some of the facial hues and patterns. Eel, pastern, ankle, half-pastern, coronet, stocking, half-stocking, and lightning markings can all be seen on the legs.

5. Morgan Horse

Morgan horses are one of the most popular horse breeds because they are kind and adaptable. It’s known as “the horse that picks you” since it’s a very cooperative breed that loves to please its owners. The Morgan is a versatile tool that may be used in almost any scenario. It is also very simple to maintain. Morgan horses may be handled by equestrians of all abilities, including youngsters. Morgan horses are smaller than many other full-size horse breeds, standing between 14 and 15 hands (56 and 60 inches) tall. Because there is no set size for horses, they might be shorter or taller. Morgans weigh between 900 and 1,000 pounds on average. Morgan horses come in a variety of equine hues. Dark, solid hues, such as bay, black, and chestnut, are common. However, some breeders specialise in creating Morgans in unusual colours such as palomino, pinto, grey, dun, roan, and others. This element of the Morgan’s look has no recognised breed standard.

6. Warmblood Horse

Warmblood refers to a group of breeds with unique personalities. They blend the characteristics of “hot-blooded” horses like Thoroughbreds with the placid attitude of “cold-blooded” breeds. Warmbloods are popular for sports activities because they are hefty and sprint well. Warmbloods have a big population all over the world as a result of mixed breeding. The population is projected to be in the range of 840,000 people. As a result of inbreeding, their numbers are gradually increasing. Warmbloods are prevalent throughout Europe, particularly in Belgium and the Netherlands. Dressage and competitive activities are the most common uses for them.

7. Shetland Pony

The Shetland Pony is a tiny horse with a height of 71 to 107 cm. This breed is widely regarded as one of the most intelligent horse breeds, and it is frequently employed in trick training.

Despite their little size, they excel in equestrian activities. The horse is a fantastic family horse since it may be ridden by children under the age of sixteen. Shetland Ponies may live for up to 30 years. Over 100,000 ponies are kept on the Shetland Islands, with the finest kinds being preserved there.

Due to the severe regions in which they originated, the ponies evolved into robust creatures. Because of their wide bodies and thick coats, they can endure harsh winters. Families frequently keep them as pets.

8. Clydesdale

The Clydesdale is one of America’s most well-known cold-blooded horses. This Scottish breed is tall and strong, making it an excellent choice for farming. They are ideal for novice riders and families because of their calm and trainable character. With a population of fewer than 5,000 horses worldwide, this breed is not very prevalent. In America, however, the number of Clydesdales has steadily grown over time. This breed thrives mostly in farmlands and pastures as a typical draught horse.

9. Gaited horses 

Horses that have been selectively bred for a smooth ride or ambling stride are known as gaited horses. These horses have a four-beat movement and travel at a medium speed. For elderly riders, those with joint difficulties, and anybody else looking for a non-bouncy ride, breeds including the Tennessee walking horse, Kentucky mountain saddle horse, Icelandic horse, and paso fino are popular alternatives. One thing that all gaited breeds have in common is that they are strong, reasonable mounts that don’t ask too much of the rider. Some horses with natural gaits, particularly those with lateral ambling gaits like pace and stepping, may struggle to learn to canter. You’ll probably need a gaited trainer to assist your horse learn to canter if he’s laterally inclined. The majority of gaited horses have a high-headed appearance, with their heads positioned higher on their shoulders than on their backs. Compared to racehorses trained for speed, gaited horses are more commonly employed for pleasure riding and driving.

10. Andalusian Horse

The Andalusian is a magnificent, strong horse that originated in southern Spain. This breed is noted for its graceful mane and strong activity levels. It’s a hot-blooded horse known for dressage rings and parades due to its very nimble temperament. Andalusians are known for their agility and stamina, making them ideal candidates for long-distance running contests. In the wars of Spain’s history, the Andalusian played an important part. Due to their tranquilly, they are housed on farmlands in preparation for competitive events.

Which Breed Of Horse Is Best For You?

Beginners should avoid untrained and energetic horses in general; they can be challenging for even experienced equestrians. The American Quarter Horse is a breed that may be too exuberant for someone who has never owned a horse before. Similarly, Andalusian horses’ agility may make them difficult to handle for novices. Exceptions exist, as with any breed, and it all boils down to the individual horse’s age, experience, training, and attitude.


Horses are still one of the most popular pets among people. They can be used for recreational riding, competitive sports, or simply for pleasure. For each of these activities, there is a suitable horse breed that you may choose based on your requirements.

Different breeds have distinct personalities and qualities that set them apart. Before opting to invest in a popular horse breed, it’s important for a horse enthusiast to carefully consider all of these aspects.

CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding

10 Best Lizards As A Pet

Reptiles are becoming increasingly popular as family pets, and for worthwhile purposes. It’s exciting to observe and engage with these sophisticated creatures. If you’re looking to acquire a reptile, there are many to choose from lizards. In no particular order, here are the top ten most popular lizards kept as pets.

1. Bearded Dragon

The Bearded Dragon is a popular, outgoing, and low-maintenance reptile. They are among the greatest reptile pets available. Beardies are Australian natives who are recognised for their unique communication style. They have skin folds under their chin that protrude into a “beard.”

Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat a variety of fruits and insects during the day. They should eat a couple of times a week and take a calcium supplement. These dragons are the most friendly reptiles you’ll ever meet. They prefer to engage with their owners most of the time. According to several owners, each dragon has its own distinct personality.

The Bearded Dragon is a wonderful starter lizard because of its general simplicity of care and pleasant nature. They grow to be 1-2 feet long and survive for 10-15 years.

2. Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are a popular pet and are well-known for being a good choice for newcomers to herpetology. They are covered in a pattern of dark brown spots, like to the animal for which they are called. They are totally insectivorous and must be supplemented with calcium. They are nocturnal as well.

Leopard geckos are typically calm, do not bite, and are easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners. They like to talk, especially when they’re hungry, so if you don’t want a noisy pet, they might not be the best choice. Fortunately, unlike other geckos, this species lacks sticky toes and does not climb, so they won’t require a tall aquarium. They have a 15-year lifespan.

3. Blue-Tongue Skink

The vivid blue tongue of the Blue-Tongue Skink is its most distinguishing feature!

These Australian indigenous are omnivores who consume primarily fruits with a small amount of meat. Although they require a fruit and vegetable diet, meat, such as large worms or mice, should also be supplied. They are a little heavier than the reptiles previously mentioned, although they do not grow particularly long for their size about 20 inches.

Skinks with blue tongues are typically gentle, quiet, and easy to tame. They have a powerful bite if they feel threatened, so while it is safe for youngsters to touch them, they should always be supervised. This skink has a 20-year lifespan. Overall, they are ideal starting reptiles due to their simplicity of care and docility.

4. Tegus

The Tegus is a South American animal that has lately been brought to Florida’s wilderness. They are a burrowing species that like to stay cool by hiding in tunnels.

This is a bigger species, reaching up to 4 feet in length, but it should be easy to care for for novices who can handle their size.

Despite their size, Black and White Tegus are more docile than the majority of reptiles.

They are easy to manage and have a high level of intelligence. They are another reptile species that eats mice, so if you prefer to feed fruit or insects, this may not be the ideal option for you!

This tegu has a lifespan of 15 to 20 years.

5. Monitor Lizard

The beautiful Monitor Lizard makes an excellent pet. The Savannah Monitor, Acklin’s Monitor, and White Throated Monitor, which are smaller variants of the Monitor Lizard, are the most frequent. This pet reptile should not be obtained from the wild once again.

The carnivorous Monitor Lizard may be fed rats and mice twice a week. This clever pet reptile should be maintained in a big, safe enclosure to prevent it from escaping. The Komodo Dragon, which resembles a tiny dinosaur at first glance and is not suggested as a pet, is the most well-known of the Monitor Lizards.

6. African Fat-Tailed Geckos

African Fat-Tailed Geckos are closely related to Leopard Geckos and require comparable care. These lizards are African natives, as their name implies, and their tails are nearly as thick as their bodies.

Beginners will have no trouble caring for them. Their husbandry and feeding requirements are quite simple. They are typically gentle and pleasant. They have a lifespan of 10 to 25 years.

7. Chameleon

A Chameleon should be purchased from a captive bred pet store or breeder, just like any other pet reptile. A Chameleon is a difficult reptile to keep as a pet since it is often stressed and requires a lot of attention in terms of habitat, health, and food. The Chameleon, unlike other pet lizards, dislikes being touched.

With its ability to change colours, rolling eyes, and lengthy tongue, the Chameleon makes for a fascinating and fantastic companion. The Veiled, Jackson’s, and Panther Chameleons are the most common pet Chameleons. Chameleons require big, open enclosures and feed on live insects such as crickets and flies.

8. Day Gecko

The Day Gecko is native to Madagascar, but it has lately been brought to Hawaii and other Pacific Islands. They get their name from the gold flecks that emerge on their dorsal side. They are mostly green in colour.

They’re little lizards, approximately 5 to 6 inches long, but they need a 20-gallon tank with plenty of logs and branches to hide in. This will help them cope with their shyness. These branches will also allow them to indulge in their climbing passion. Some novice reptile keepers are hesitant to accept this species since they are highly stressed and their skin rips readily. These lizards are best kept as showpieces with little handling.

They’re ideal for novices who want to learn about lizard care without having to engage with them too much. Day geckos have a lifespan of around ten years.

9. Green Iguana

Because of their attractive look and herbivorous habit, iguanas are a popular beginning Lizard. They consume leaves, fruits, and flowers, so they’re ideal for first-time reptile owners who don’t want to give live food. They are endemic to Central and South America and may reach a height of 5 to 6 feet. They will require a huge cage with a pool of water large enough for them to soak in as they get larger.

To tame your Iguana, begin handling them as often as gently as possible after they appear more at ease. They also have strong claws, so keep an eye on where they put their feet. Iguanas have a lifespan of 10 to 15 years.

They’re ideal for novices who have lots of room, patience, and devotion.

10. Basilisk

The Basilisk is noted for being a water-running lizard, gaining the moniker “Jesus Christ Lizard.”

Typically found in Central America’s tropical jungles. They consume insects, mice, and the occasional fruit as part of their omnivorous diet. Because they are small, these lizards are suitable for beginners. They may grow up to 3 feet long and aren’t very stocky or heavy for their size.

They require a huge cage with higher-than-normal temperatures and humidity. They don’t usually take to handling well, but they’re an interesting pet lizard to observe from a distance. Beginners who are willing to accept their particular husbandry requirements and lack of human interaction should keep this breed. They have an average lifespan of 8 to 12 years.

Which Lizard is best for you?

Many of the lizards on this list are wonderful for some people, but not for others. Make sure the species you pick is appropriate for your lifestyle, husbandry, and handling ability.

Though each of the lizards on this list would make an excellent first pet, they all require special care.

Because of their amiable demeanour and enjoyment of handling, bearded dragons are one of the finest choices for first-time reptile owners.

Choose your reptile carefully, conduct your homework, and bear in mind their needs.


Reptiles make unusual and intriguing pets, regardless of their species. Most reptile pets will live a long time and give years of companionship and amusement provided their unique needs are addressed.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring

Caring for your Pet Turtle – Aquatic Turtle

Turtles, both aquatic and semi-aquatic, are popular as pets. Turtles are interesting pets to have, but they are delicate animals, so learning how to care for one before acquiring one is essential. For survival, you need make space, light, hydration, and food. Understanding these areas of turtle care can ensure that your turtle has a long and happy life.

Most popular species of Aquatic turtle

Red-Eared Slider Turtle

Red-eared slider turtles are native to North America and make excellent pets. They have appealing yellow and green patterns on their bodies, as well as prominent red patches behind their eyes. They are also frequently social with their owners. When it comes to their upkeep, though, they are a significant undertaking. Those lovely tiny turtle hatchlings for sale will develop into huge, long-lived, and a bit untidy aquatic turtles. Prepare for the amount of room and cleaning they will require.

Yellow-Bellied Slider Turtle

Yellow-bellied sliders, one of the most popular pet turtles, are long-lived aquatic turtles that can live up to 40 years in captivity. Although these turtles spend the most of their time in the water, unlike amphibians, they require the ability to dry off and relax. This species of turtle is relatively easy to care for in terms of turtles. Aquatic turtles, in general, need a lot of tank upkeep. As adults, these turtles, which are closely related to red-eared sliders, will require a large aquarium. The brown or black shells with yellow stripes differentiate these popular pets. Their lower shell, or underside, is yellow with black dots, therefore the name.

Painted Turtles

Painted turtles are called from the elaborate shell patterns on their shells, although they are also known as Chrysemys picta. Males are smaller than females, and the average painted turtle develops to be between four and twelve inches long. 1 Painted turtles can live up to 50 years in the wild and can be found in ponds and small lakes, where they congregate on logs to sun themselves and dry off. They will hibernate in the winter.

Mud Turtle

Eastern mud turtles are aquatic turtles that are tiny and compact and are native to ponds in the Eastern United States from Texas to New York. They are popular as pets primarily due to their small size, seldom growing to be more than five inches long. Their needs are comparable to those of other aquatic turtles, although they are semi-terrestrial, unlike some of their cousins. Rather than seeking to soak up the sun, they spend much of their time wandering, covered beneath leaves, or resting on the bottoms of small ponds. Mud turtles are probably not a suitable pet for a smaller child, even if they are well-suited for older children who can properly care for them.

Diamondback Terrapin

Diamondback terrapins are named from the diamond-shaped pattern on its dorsal shell. Terrapin means tiny turtle. One of the most stunning turtles endemic to the United States. Diamondback terrapins are typically gentle turtles who are happy to be handled, however they may nip if threatened. They vary from other common pet aquatic turtles such as painted turtles and red-eared sliders in that they live in brackish (salty) water rather than pure freshwater.

Choosing Your Aquatic Turtle

Turtles make lovely, intriguing, and delightful pets for the appropriate person with the correct dedication. The first step in excellent aquatic turtle ownership is to learn about the different species and how to care for them. While the fundamentals of aquatic turtle care are the same for all species, prospective owners should read up on the specifics of housing and food for the type they choose before making a purchase.

The hardier aquatic turtle species, such as red-eared sliders, cooters, mud, and musk turtles, are suggested for novices. Keep in mind that sliders and cooters may grow to be over 12 inches long at maturity, although mud and musk turtles are roughly half that size. Some of the less popular species, such as map and painted turtles, are less resilient as pets. Softshell and snapping turtles have a reputation for being big, aggressive, and more difficult to care for, making them unsuitable for beginners.


Aquatic turtles do not require much maintenance aside from a suitable environment and nutrition, however regular engagement may result in a docile and social turtle. Depending on the species and under perfect conditions, they will reach adult size in 1 to 2 years; increase the size of the habitat as your turtle develops. In any event, they’re gorgeous, and with careful care, they should last for many years.

Large tanks, specific lighting, adequate filtration, and frequent cleaning are required for aquatic turtles. During the day, they are most active. Allow yourself to be exposed to the sun during the warmest portion of the day to assist digestion, immunity, and regular development. By roaming between warm and cool regions of the cage, they control their internal body temperature. In most cases, aquatic turtles prefer to feed while still in the water. Turtles dislike being handled frequently and may bite if startled.

Temperature Requirements

A basking lamp and a submersible heater serve as major heat sources for a temperature gradient of 95°F for the warm end/basking area and 75°F for the cool end/water. UVB rays and full spectrum illumination are necessary for 10 to 12 hours each day. For basking regions, incandescent illumination is required. Temperature changes take a long time for turtles to acclimatise to. If you want to play with him outside of his tank, make sure the room is close to the same temperature as the tank. Sudden changes will put him under stress, and his immune system may suffer as a result.


Aquatic turtles necessitate a lot of space. Turtles require frequent exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, thus all turtle tanks should have specific light bulbs intended for reptiles that generate both UVA and UVB radiation. They can get soft shell syndrome, a metabolic bone condition, if they don’t get enough light. Aquatic turtles are extremely filthy, so their tanks require frequent cleanings and, most importantly, a decent filtration system to ensure proper water quality. They should have adequate water to swim in, as well as a spot to get out of the water and relax under a heat lamp. At all times, appropriate water and ambient temperatures should be maintained.

Diet and Feeding

Although aquatic turtle diets have improved over time, they are not suggested as a sole source of nutrition. Most aquatic turtles are omnivores, however their preferences for certain foods may alter over time, and the best approach to feed them is to provide a range of foods. Aquatic turtles enjoy leafy vegetables like romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, and parsley (fresh, not dried). Because your turtle spends the most of its time immersed in water, the ideal approach to feed greens to your turtle is to either place the food directly in the water or use a suction cup clip to keep the food in the tank but not float in the water.

Chopped apples and frozen shrimp can be given to an aquatic turtle as a treat, but they are not recommended for daily consumption. Although certain water turtle species eat insects, vegetation should make up the majority of their diet. Because turtles are messy eaters, it’s best to feed them in a container separate from their home tank. This keeps the mess to a minimum. When many turtles live together, it also helps owners to keep track of each turtle’s food intake.

Habitat Maintenance

Keep the habitat clean by removing any uneaten food or excrement as soon as possible. At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat. Place the turtle in a safe environment and use a 3 percent bleach solution to clean the tank and furnishings. Rinse carefully with water to remove any lingering bleach odour. Before reintroducing the turtle, provide clean, dechlorinated water with a temperature range of 70 to 75°F.

Substrate Nature

For aquatic turtles, substrate is advised to reduce the danger of pressure sores on the bottoms of their feet. Your turtle’s health depends on having access to clean water. Even though the water looks to be clean, it may contain a significant amount of nitrogenous waste from excrement. Clean water is ensured by frequent complete water changes. The more frequent the water changes, the lower the volume of water. A 4-inch turtle in a 10-gallon tank should be changed 2-3 times each week. The water in a 50-gallon aquarium is usually changed once a week. The more turtles in the cage, the more water changes are required. If the turtles are fed in the cage, the water should be changed every 12 hours. When doing a full water change, clean and rinse the cage well to eliminate any remaining bacterial development on all surfaces. Because sudden changes in water temperature might be dangerous, be sure that the water temperature after cleaning is equal to what it was before.

Common health problems

  • GI tract parasites: Poor appetite, listlessness, perhaps diarrhoea, and anal prolapse are all symptoms of parasites in the gastrointestinal tract. As soon as possible, consult your veterinarian.
  • Respiratory infection: A cold environment can induce a respiratory illness, which includes open mouth breathing, eye, nose, and/or mouth secretion, and sneezing. Consult your veterinarian and make sure the environment is at the proper temperature.
  • Ulcers/shell rot: An dirty environment or an inappropriate food can create discoloured or foul-smelling patches or pits on the shell, which can become diseased. Consult your veterinarian and make sure you’re getting daily cleanings and/or changing your diet.
  • Eye or respiratory infection: A vitamin A deficit may produce swollen eyes and sides of the head. Consult your veterinarian and take a multivitamin.


Aquatic turtles are friendly and popular pets, but they require a lot of care. These creatures are tidy, quiet, and very simple to look after. Children should avoid aquatic turtles as pets.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring

Caring for your Pet Turtle – Tortoise


Tortoises are interesting animals that have been known to outlast their owners when properly cared for. Tortoises are, in reality, among the world’s oldest creatures!

Tortoises, on the other hand, do not live long if they are not properly cared for. Many individuals purchase tortoises without completely comprehending their care requirements, and as a result, they inadvertently decrease their lives. Here’s what you need to know if you just got a new tortoise or are thinking about acquiring one.

Are Tortoises Good Pets?

Tortoises are excellent pets…if you know what you’ve been doing!

Your tortoise may approach you for food or scratching once they feel secure and familiar with you as tortoises can feel touch on their shell! However, because they are normally reclusive and do not seek for human or tortoise company, don’t anticipate a particularly cuddly pet. However, you’re more likely to see your tortoise during the day, especially if the weather is warm and bright.

Outside of fresh water and food, tortoises don’t require much in the way of daily maintenance. You’ll probably spend more time adjusting your tortoise’s diet to meet their nutritional demands and dietary preferences than you will actually caring for them. Your tortoise may require daily enclosure cleaning depending on the layout of your cage. It’s unlikely that your tortoise would require daily cleaning if they have a big outside cage.

Interesting facts about tortoise

  • Tortoises may reach a length of 10 inches.
  • They are vegetarians.
  • They live on land and are not swimmers like turtles.
  • They’re a cold-blooded species.
  • They have a life expectancy of more than 50 years.

Lighting and Heating

Your tortoise will require UV-ray-producing lights in indoor cages. This aids in the creation of vitamin D, which in turn leads to the manufacture of calcium. They also require a heat light to regulate their body temperature in a warm environment. You should have a light and a heat lamp, not just one bulb that can do both duties. The habitat should provide UV lighting in the bulk of the enclosure, but the heat should be concentrated in one area so that your tortoise may go in and out as needed.


Your tortoise’s enclosure should be as natural as possible. Adapt the enclosure to your tortoise’s species. Red-footed and Yellow-footed tortoises enjoy a tropical, humid climate, but Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Russian tortoises prefer a warm, dry environment. Overly wet conditions encourage fungal development, which is harmful to tortoises’ health. Provide access to shallow water for soaking and drinking for all tortoises. You can use Coconut Husk as bedding.

The enclosure’s ideal temperature range is 70-90°F (21-32°C). To enable body temperature control, a basking area and shade are required. At the cool end of the enclosure, place a shelter or hide-box. When you’re near your turtle, keep an eye on any other pets. In the winter, Russian and Greek tortoises may hibernate. Hibernation should only be done on healthy tortoises. Other sources of information about hibernation should be consulted. Tortoises such as the Leopard, Sulcata, Red-footed, and Yellow-footed do not hibernate. Indoor tortoises require at least 5% UVA/UVB light. UV output will diminish long before the light bulb burns out, thus light bulbs should be replaced every 6-9 months. Male tortoises may be aggressive and territorial when it comes to other male tortoises.


Tortoises are omnivores that require a diversified diet of fruits, vegetables, and good tortoise chow. Small quantities of animal protein can be provided. Sulcata and Leopard tortoises eat grass hay, leafy greens, vegetables, and tortoise chow, which are high in fibre. Fruit is offered sparingly or not at all, and there is no animal protein.

Leafy greens, grass hay, and vegetables should be offered to tortoises on a high-fiber, low-protein diet. Fruits are provided in little amounts or not at all. Tortoise chow can be added to the diet of Russian tortoises, but it should be limited or not provided at all to Greek tortoises. Tortoises in general appear to appreciate vividly coloured fruits and vegetables, as well as a varied diet. The nicest greens are dark and leafy: romaine lettuce, kale, collards, dandelion, mustard greens, and dandelion.

Several times a week, some specialists advocate dusting the feed with a veterinarian powdered calcium supplement. The tortoise may require more calcium than other tortoises, and some experts advocate giving them free-choice cuttlebone. Fresh food and water should be provided on a daily basis. Every other day, adult tortoises can be fed. It’s possible that they’ll be territorial and try to keep other turtles away from their food.

Handling and caring

Your tortoise is unlikely to like being carried about, so only do so when absolutely necessary. Scratches and petting, especially at feeding time, will aid in the development of trust.

The most crucial element of shell maintenance is ensuring that the diet has enough calcium. However, because shells are a component of your tortoise’s skeletal system, you should inspect it for cracks and other ailments. A veterinarian should examine any shell damage. If you have any questions or worries regarding the health of your box turtle, see a veterinarian who has expertise with exotic pets. Every 6 to 12 months, have a routine physical examination. Examination of the faeces for parasites on an annual basis. Your veterinarian may prescribe blood testing.

Substrate Nature

Your tortoise’s substrate should be absorbent so that it does not end up standing in waste. All of these materials are acceptable including coco coir, peat, and soil. If you want a chunkier substrate, reptile substrate bark and mulch, as well as coconut husk pieces, are also acceptable options. Your turtle requires green spaces in outdoor cages and will likely like dirty places as well. Make sure that any grass or weeds growing in the area will not harm your turtle if it consumes them.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.


  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value


  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.


  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused


  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into


One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.


  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials


  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell