pet-snake-caring-rattlesnakeCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rattlesnake

Rattlesnakes have unique behaviours that make it a very good pet besides the fact that its bright green colours are a sight to see.

The rattlesnake has a triangular shaped head and is a heavy bodied snake. On each side of its face, there are two dark diagonal lines starting from its eyes to its jaws. There are dark diamond-shaped patterns on its back. Just above the rattles, there are black and white bands on its tail.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Rattlesnake is an extremely arboreal reptile by nature, so it spends its entire day on top of a branch or an elevated spot. When it is hunting or when it needs to drink water, it goes down to the ground because this reptile is somewhat shy and feels safe on top of a branch or any other similar elevated spot in its enclosure.

Rattlesnake is one of the largest members of anole species and their overall size is usually upto 1.5 feet long. The Western Diamondback Rattlesnake has a lifespan of about 8 to 12 years. Most Western Diamondback Rattlesnakes that live under human control usually live an average of about 8.3 years. As long as they are given the proper care and nutrition, these reptiles can live for more than 12 years.

Temperature Requirements

Environments that are warm and tropical are preferred by Rattlesnakes. Use lighting sources such as a UVB lamp or an incandescent heat lamp to provide your reptile with the heat or warmth it needs. Temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees should be there in the coldest portion of the entire enclosure. For achieving this temperature UVB lamp should be beneficial because it does not produce a lot of heat.

humidity-temperature-measure

However, because the Rattlesnake wants a basking place after eating, there should be a fairly hot portion in the enclosure. The temperature in the enclosure’s warmest section should be between 95 and 100 degrees. This hot spot is most likely directly beneath the heat lamp, as that is where the most of the heat it produces should be.

Humidity

When it comes to humidity, Rattlesnakes demand a humid environment with humidity levels ranging from 50% to 80%. To reach these humidity levels, mist the snake’s enclosure with water on a frequent basis. As a result, the habitat might remain moist and humid. The best technique to provide the Rattlesnake with the water it requires for drinking is to mist it. A water dish can also keep humidity levels up, even if it doesn’t serve many uses in terms of your snake’s hydration needs. The simplest way to tell if the enclosure is humid is to look at the substrate and see if it remains damp or moist.

Lighting

If you want to provide good lighting to your Rattlesnake then there are two types of lights available. The first should be a UVB light that gives your snake vitamin D3. This permits it to better digest calcium, lowering the chances of it developing metabolic bone disease. Another type of light in the enclosure should be a strong heat lamp that supplies the majority of the light and heat. The main aim of a heat lamp is to maintain a natural light schedule for your snake.

Cleaning

For keeping your Rattlesnake away from harmful illness or health problems it is important to provide clean and sanitary habitat. Whenever you find faeces or anything nasty, make sure to spot clean the enclosure. However, once a month, properly clean the habitat to kill off germs, moulds, and other hazardous microorganisms. You may make a sanitizing solution with water and vinegar.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Rattlesnakes eat a wide variety of prey, including lizards, frogs, and rodents of many kinds. Mice and rats are eaten by tiny individuals, while squirrels and small rabbits are eaten by adults. It usually does not contain large parasite burdens, unlike some other rattlesnake species, though all specimens should be tested by a qualified veterinarian. Wormers and other drugs will be administered through the diet.

Substrate Nature

Rattlesnake rarely spends time on the ground due to its arboreal nature, you should provide a decent substrate in its enclosure to act as bedding and to keep things moist. Cypress mulch is a good choice since it maintains moisture effectively, but newspapers or coco fibre are other good options. Use of fertilised garden soil sparingly since it may hurt the Rattlesnake if it swallows it accidently while feeding.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut fibre is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

·       Retain moisture

·       It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

·       Costly

·       Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Newspaper and paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. Paper towels can work superior for small cages. It is versatile and it can be placed on the bottom of the cage. Newborn snakes love newspapers. Adults can’t easily burrow in newspapers, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Wet or damp newspapers and paper towels can cause skin infection in the snakes. To avoid these, replace wet newspapers with fresh newspapers.

Advantages:

·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

The Rattlesnake is quite simple to care for in terms of maintenance. Rattlesnake does not like to be handled, they are not the best pets for beginners who enjoy handling their reptiles. Be careful while handling Rattlesnakes, they may bite you because of their shy tendencies. Proper diet and right enclosure must be provided to the snake for their health.

yellow-rat-snakeCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Yellow Rat Snake

The yellow rat snakes can be found in the wild from southeastern South Carolina to Florida’s southern tip. The yellow rat snake is the southeastern representative of black rat snake. Once they’ve been accustomed to being handled and you’ve become used to dealing, yellow rat snakes make excellent pets.

Yellow rat snakes are attractive animals that come in a range of colours and experience significant colour changes as they age. In the wild, they are a powerful constrictor that can easily overcome its prey of rodents and the rare bird.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Yellow rat snakes are non-venomous. Yellow rat snakes are nocturnal creatures that are most active at night time, from dusk until late at night/early in the morning. Yellow rat snakes may prefer to hunt during the day or at night, depending on their location.

Apart from their hunting preferences, the habits and behaviour of yellow rat snakes do greatly depend on where they originate from. For instance, yellow rat snakes found in the south are known to be more aggressive than those inhabiting the northern regions.

Yellow rat snakes normally grow to be 5 to 7 feet long, while they have been known to grow to be as long as ten feet.

A yellow rat snake can live for 17 to 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

Yellow stripe rat snakes require a warm basking spot during the day. They require warmer temperatures of 85-degree F to 90-degree F. Yellow stripe rat snakes need a little drop in temperature and complete darkness at night. The night time temperature should be 80-degree F. A clear spot bulb at one end of the terrarium is used to achieve this temperature. Also heat mat can be beneficial. It is important that the temperature should always be controlled by a high quality thermostat. The thermostat will automatically turn on at night when the temperature in the vivarium drops. A thermometer should be used to check the temperature on a daily basis.

Humidity

As far as humidity levels are concerned, yellow rat snakes. Humidity levels of 40% to 50% are ideal for keeping a yellow rat snake as a pet. By simply placing a large water bowl within the cage, these levels can be easily achieved. You can use a mister or a fogger if you observe that humidity levels are decreasing below 40% despite having placed a large water bowl inside the tank. To maintain proper humidity, use a pump sprayer every four days with five to ten pumps.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

It is simple to feed a yellow rat snake. Adult yellow rat snakes eat rats, rodents and chicks. Young yellow rat snakes may prefer tree frogs and lizards for their first several meals. For hatchlings you can feed them pinky mice.

Despite the fact that rat snakes can swallow huge prey, they can regurgitate a hefty meal due to temperature changes or fear. The largest meal you serve your snake should not be larger than its head diameter.

Even domesticated yellow rat snakes can bite at feeding time, so be cautious while approaching them. Avoid offering live food to your snake as a live rodent can hurt or even kill your snake. It is best to feed the snake’s deceased prey.

Housing

The enclosure for yellow stripe rat snakes is a wooden vivarium. This is because wood is a good heat insulator, therefore a wooden vivarium will make it easier to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. Glass terrariums, for example, are significantly too efficient in releasing heat. To allow air to move in and out of the cage, the wooden vivarium should have adequate ventilation.

As Yellow rat snakes are large in size, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long. To live happily, they require a comparable quantity of room. A suitable length of vivarium is required to allow for the establishment of a temperature gradient. The enclosure should be warm at one end and cool at the other, with enough distance between them for the temperature to drop.

Breeding

If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. You do not need to do anything to encourage this, provided they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. A gravid female should be able to lay her eggs in a nesting box. The box should be spacious enough for her to spin around completely within. To keep the box damp and humid, you can use moss.

Incubate the eggs at 84 degrees Fahrenheit in an incubator. To keep the humidity around the eggs, we incubate them in enclosed boxes on a moist substrate. The eggs will begin to hatch after around 60 days, and the first babies to emerge will urge the rest of the eggs to hatch.

Handling

The rules for handling a yellow rat snake are patience, persistence, and care, at least if you don’t want to get bitten. Snakes usually react defensively to quick motion, but they tolerate slow motion. They are normally suspicious of movement above them, but not so much of movement from the side.

Do not hold your snake’s neck with your hands. Instead, place one hand about a third of the way back from the head and the other a quarter of the way forward from the tail tip under it. Lift the snake carefully while holding it loosely. Always keep it away from your face.

Do not lift them for a few days after they have eaten. You may train your snake to accept handling without biting it. When you’re trying to get your yellow rat snake acclimated to being handled, gently lift it once or twice a day until it gets the hang of it. Allow your snake to calm down before attempting again.

Substrate Nature

Yellow rat snakes enjoy exploring their surroundings as much as burrowing. You should choose a substrate that allows these playful serpents to follow their natural tendencies while also being hypoallergenic and simple to clean and maintain. There are a number of substrate suits for your pet snake. Aspen shaving is one of the most popular options. Coconut fiber is natural and chemical free bedding for your snake. Newspapers are fairly reliable for snakes. Must avoid cedar and pine bedding as they are toxic to snakes.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut fibre is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Newspaper

Newspapers provide an easily replaceable, low-cost substrate that the snake can burrow and dig through. On the drawback, newspapers absorb both must and feces, resulting in a stench that lingers in the tank if the substrate is not changed as soon as possible. When it comes to juvenile yellow rat snakes, newspapers should be replaced even more regularly, as juveniles have been known to musk at even the little threat.

Advantages:

·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings are inexpensive, easy to replace, and aesthetically pleasing. Snakes are also really simple to burrow through. Furthermore, aspen shavings allow for good ventilation in the cage. Keep in mind that if the chips are too small, the yellow rat snake is more likely to swallow them whole while feeding. If you are using this bedding then feed your snakes outside of the enclosure.

Advantages:

·       It is not too expensive.

·       Snakes are easily burrowed in it.

·       It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

·       It needs to change completely more often.

Conclusion:

Yellow rat snakes are non-venomous and they are truly attractive species. Once they’ve been accustomed to being handled and you’ve become used to dealing, yellow rat snakes make excellent pets.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Burmese Python

One of the largest snakes to slither on this Earth is the Burmese Python. They are mostly found in southeast Asia and span across Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and southeastern China. Burmese Python make an excellent pet because of their docile nature and undemanding requirements.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Burmese Python snakes are stunning creatures with brown and black patterns. They are popular for their attractive appearance, as well as their large size and a calm nature. They are great pets for the right owners. They are however unsuitable for beginners and are better left in the wild. They’re large snakes that are both costly to keep and potentially dangerous. You have to make sure that you have enough space to keep Burmese Python. Owner needs to be very careful when handling Burmese Python, owners have died due to mishandling these kinds of snakes.

Size and Longevity

Burmese Pythons are one of the largest python species in the world. Generally, females are larger than males and they can grow up to 15 feet. Males are somewhat smaller and more slightly built. In captivity, some Burmese pythons have grown to be over 20 feet long and weigh well over 200 pounds. With proper care these snakes can live well over 20 years. There are some reports of specimens living nearly 40 years.

Burmese Python Growth Chart

Age SizeWeight

Hatchlings
10-30 inches
100-115 grams
3 months16-40 inches 190-650 grams
9 months40-50 inches570-780 grams

Temperature Requirements

Burmese pythons are typically tropical species, it is important to keep these snakes warmer. These snakes require a basking spot of 31 to 33°C with a thermal gradient fading to about 28°C at the cooler end of the enclosure. To maintain this temperature you can use basking lights, infrared bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heating pads.

Humidity

Burmese Pythons humidity should be around 50-60% which can be increased whilst shedding. When they are shedding, a regular misting with tepid water can be provided. A 20-to-30-minute soak in warm water during shedding may also be beneficial to your snake. You can provide a water bowl in a cage but make sure they always have clean water. Hand misting is usually beneficial. If you maintain a humidity level of around 65%, your snake will be able to shed in a healthy way.

Lighting

Burmese Python are tropical species so it is important that they are kept properly warm. During the day, cage temperatures should be in the mid-80s and at night, that should not be lower than 80. During the day, specific basking locations within the enclosure should reach or slightly surpass 95 degrees. Make sure the enclosure has a thermal gradient, with one end warmer than the other, giving the snake a range of temperatures to choose from depending on its demands at any given time.

For Burmese python, no special lighting is required but basic fluorescent bulbs or any heat bulb that gives visible light in addition to heat can be used during the day.

Handling

Usually, Burmese Pythons are large in size. Smaller pythons can be handled freely, but it is recommended that snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. When a snake reaches the length of 8 feet, at least two people should be present when it is out. While these animals are usually gentle, they are still unpredictable and powerful. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Housing

Hatchling Burmese Python can be kept in small cages, secure tubs with a hide on one side and a water bowl on the other. But adults require a lot of room space. For male Burmese Python needs an enclosure size of 6ftx2ftx2ft and females will most likely need an 8ftx3ftx2ft enclosure. Burmese pythons are extremely powerful snakes that require a very secure housing. If glass is used in the enclosure, thick laminate glass is recommended as a minimum, with toughened glass being preferred. This will take time and money, so consider your options carefully before purchasing one of these creatures.

Cleaning

Maintain proper temperature, daylight hours and a good nesting location to keep your Python healthy. Cleaning is essential to prevent health problems. Good husbandry and hygiene can be helpful for keeping your snake healthy. Make sure that you keep the enclosure clean. Clean the cage on a regular basis and replace the water. Don’t let the tank’s size deter you from cleaning it!

Burmese Pythons usually defecate 8-14 days after eating and their faeces should be brown and solid. You should take advantage of this opportunity to clean the area more thoroughly and replace the substrate. Their massive cage needs a consistent cleaning routine.

Diet

Snakes should be given defrosted rodent prey of proper size. You can feed them mice, rats and rabbits. Food for Burmese Pythons should be large enough to leave a visible lump in the snake’s belly. Must avoid live food. Newborn Burmese Pythons can eat fuzzy rats or adult mice for first feed. You can feed them every 5 to 7 days a week. As they grow you can increase the size of prey. Adult snakes require a large meal every 4 to 5 weeks to avoid becoming overweight. 

Breeding

You do not need to do anything to encourage this, provided they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. A gravid female should be able to lay her eggs in a nesting box. The box should be wide enough for her to spin around completely within. To keep the box damp and humid, you can use moss.

Incubate the eggs at 84o Fahrenheit in an incubator. To keep the humidity around the eggs, we incubate them in enclosed boxes on a moist substrate. The eggs will begin to hatch after around 60 days, and the first babies to emerge will urge the rest of eggs to hatch.

Substrate Nature

There are a wide range of substrates available for Burmese Pythons. The bedding should be one that is easy to clean and helpful for maintaining humidity levels. Newspaper is absorbent, fairly sterile and readily available. Various woods, shavings and shredded substrate products are acceptable too, although they tend to foul in moist environments. Paper is also an option as it is cheap, easy to clean and hygienic. Aspen shaving or cypress shaving is your best option, being fairly cheap and pleasant looking. Pine and cedar shaving must be avoided as they are toxic to snakes.

Substrate Types

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate for your snake. You can use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. It is soft and comfortable pet bedding. It is super absorbent, chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding. This bedding easily gets moldy. Too much moisture can cause material particles to get under a large snake’s belly scales, causing irritation.

Advantages:

•         Affordable.

•         Excellent absorbing and clean-up.

•         Snakes like to burrow in this.

Disadvantages:

•         May need to be changed more often.

•           It easily gets moldy.

Cypress Shavings

Cypress Mulch is slightly similar to the Aspen shaving. It is made up of small pieces of wood. It looks attractive and helps to create a natural looking enclosure. It helps to retain moisture. It does not mold easily. Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Advantages:

•         It retains moisture.

•         It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

•         It is an expensive bedding option.

•         Mites thrive in cypress mulch.

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut husk bedding is a completely natural and organic bedding material for your snakes. It is an easily available and low-cost alternative. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·        Highly comfortable material for snakes.

·        Odor and Dust free.

·        Natural and Organic material. 

Disadvantages:

·        Doesn’t retain humidity much longer.

·        Large pieces of husk can cause irritation.

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. For small cages, paper towels can work superior. It’s versatile and you can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. It’s not easy to burrow in a newspaper but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the snakes.

Advantages:

·        It is affordable.

·        It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·        More suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·        Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·        Wet or damp newspapers can cause skin irritation for snakes.

Conclusion

Burmese pythons are enormous, gorgeous snakes that can be handled if help is always available while handling adult specimens. This species is docile in general and makes excellent pets. With the exception of feeding time, they are usually slow-moving snakes. If they are not handled or dealt with priority, it can be dangerous.

corn-snake-caringCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Corn Snake

Corn snakes are the most popular snake for their own good reasons. They make an excellent pet. Their extremely gorgeous colours and patterns are eye-catching. Corn snakes are calm, docile and relatively easy to handle. Because of their gentle nature, they make fantastic choices as pet snakes for beginner snake owners. They are native to the south-eastern United States, are mostly land-dwelling and are active mainly at night or at dusk and dawn.

Table of contents

Behaviour 

corn snake in wild

Corn snakes are large snakes as they hatch from egg  8 to 12 inches and reach 4 to 5.5 feet in their adulthood. Corn snakes can live into their late teens and perhaps their early twenties if they are properly cared for. They can reproduce until they are 10 to 12 years old, and occasionally even longer. Corn snakes, often called red rat snakes as they are  orange or brownish-yellow snakes with a pattern of large red blotches outlined in black down their backs. They are appealingly slender.  

The alternatingly black and white marks like a checkerboard pattern, runs along their bellies. Corn snakes show considerable variations in their color and pattern depending on their age and geographic location.

Temperature Requirements

Corn snakes are most active around night time therefore additional light is not required so natural cycle of lights is enough. Corn snakes are cold-blooded or ectothermic. They require a temperature gradient consisting of a warm side 81o F to 86o F and cool side 74o F to 78o F. Corn Snakes tend to use heat from the ground. 

For maintaining these temperatures you need to use some external heating elements. Heat pads are recommended in order to keep corn snakes warmer. Also heat bulbs can be used for heating. Infrared Ceramic Heat Emitter with thermostat is also used for maintaining  these levels of temperature.

Humidity

humidity-temperature-measure

Corn snakes prefer to live between the average humidity of 65-75%. The right level of humidity is necessary to prevent dehydration, maintain respiratory health and facilitate proper shedding. These tips will help you maintain healthy humidity levels in your snake enclosures. 

  • Make use of dry substrate like aspen and lignocel. 
  • Provide a clean and chemical-free surrounding of leaf-litter on top of substrate. 
  • Mist the enclosure on a daily basis. 
  • For better results, install a cool mist humidifier at night.

Lighting

Corn snakes are mostly daylight dwellers. They need a distinct day/night cycle in captivity. For regulating your snake’s natural biorhythms and encouraging them on natural behaviors, you need to provide them with terrarium-specific lighting. Corn snakes require 12 hours of lighting per day. 

To promote more natural hormonal rhythms in your snake and for better overall health results, provide them with a seasonal light cycle. Providing UVB can be very beneficial for a snake’s mental and physical health. If you are providing UVB then, use a T5 HO UVB fluorescent tube and replace it every 12 months.

Corn snakes don’t require nighttime lighting such as colored bulbs. If you are providing nighttime lighting to your snakes then stop, because it may damage your snake’s eyesight and/or mental health.

Handling 

snake-handling

Corn Snakes are quite active snakes and to exercise they will appreciate time outside the vivarium. Give support to your Corn snake at all times to avoid dropping them. Give a few weeks to settle a new Corn snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your Corn snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you.

Depending on the particular snake, A suitable handling time for your Corn snake is 3-4 times in a week for approximately 10-15 minutes. Some Corn snakes may shy from regular handling while some may enjoy more time outside the vivarium. Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.

Cleaning

Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy. Bedding makes it easy to clean feces. You have to remove faces daily that you see. Cleaning the spot of your snake should be done lightly once a week. You can replace the top 1 inch of bedding in a week.  Weekly sanitation is must recommended to keep your snake environment hygienic. 

Cage Maintenance

As Corn snakes excrete small amounts of semi-solid fluid, they require least maintenance. For quick cleaning of feces, use Aspen and other similar substrates. The entire cage and all the accessories should be washed out once after 4-5 months with a gentle soap and the used bedding should be completely thrown out. If you are using paper towels then change them once a week.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

The primary natural food of Corn Snake  is mice and rats. The size of prey depends upon the girth of the snake. Must avoid feeding your Corn Snake anything bigger than the thickest part of its body. Some baby snakes can eat lizards and occasional frogs. Adult snakes can also eat birds or their eggs. You can feed baby corn snakes once every 5 to 7 days and feed adults once every 7 to 10 days.

Substrate Nature

Aspen is the most commonly used bedding type for snakes, as it allows them to burrow easily. Corn snakes require just an inch depth of substrate to burrow in. Younger ones easily get adjusted to a new substrate while it may take some time for the adult ones to feel comfortable to settle in. You may add even more bedding to increase the depth and feel more comfortable.

Usually, corn snakes use bedding to protect their bellies as they slide around. But they love to feel of burrowing. Coconut husk is one such completely natural and organic bedding that is non-toxic and gives off a cosy feel to snakes. Never use cedar or pine shaving. 

Its aromatic oils can cause irritation and respiratory issues in your snake. Cleaning is essential. Substrates should be completely replaced every 7 to 8 weeks.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut husk bedding is a completely natural and organic bedding material for your corn snakes. It is an easily available and low cost alternative. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic material
coconut-coir-husk

Disadvantages:

  • Doesn’t retain humidity much longer
  • Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Aspen Bedding

Aspen Bedding is the most popular bedding option for corn snakes. It is an ideal substrate and affordable so you can completely replace it. This is natural bedding which is made up of shaved aspen wood. It absorbs odours and prevents odour from waste. It is perfectly safe for your pet snake.

Advantages:

  • It is not too expensive.
  • Snakes are easily burrowed in it.
  • It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

  • It needs to change completely more often.

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is slightly similar to the Aspen shaving. It is made up of small pieces of wood. It looks attractive and it helps to create a natural looking enclosure. It helps to retain moisture. It does not mold easily. Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Advantages:

  • It doesn’t mold.
  • It retains moisture.
  • It helps to create a natural looking enclosure.

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspaper covers are the cheap and easy-to-use substrate type. It works best for the small cages. Newborn snakes love the soft texture of paper, but adults can’t easily burrow in newspaper. Wet or the damp newspaper and towels can cause skin infections to snake skin. So replace the wet newspaper with fresh newspaper.

Advantages:

  • It is one of the most versatile bedding options.
  • It is affordable.
  • It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

  • Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.
  • Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Conclusion

Corn snakes burrow in the wild, so they should be allowed to do so in captivity. The best choice for snake bedding is Coconut Husk. Coconut Husk  is soft enough not to hurt your snake and it holds its shape when burrowed into. It is highly absorbent and looks better than other bedding types. However, the best choice for you and your snake is felt as per your convenience and needs. Types and depth of the bedding substrate is significantly important for your snake health and happiness. 

kingsnake habitatCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – King snake

Kingsnakes are the most beautiful species found in many areas of North America. They make  excellent pets and fairly common snakes to own. There are many different types of Kingsnakes that are common in environments like grassland, farmland and are great climbers and swimmers as well. 

Table of contents

Behaviour

Kingsnakes are non venomous and easy to maintain. Once warmed-up with the owners, it becomes detachable. King snakes are very beautiful and exist in different colors and patterns. Kingsnakes are moderate-to-large size snakes. They are 8 to 12 inches long when they are hatched from eggs. They are fast growers and quickly reach their adult size 3 to 5 feet. There is no significant difference in male and female in size or appearance. King snakes tend to live a long life, that’s usually 15 to 20 years.

There are multiple varieties of kingsnakes found with different colors and patterns. They generally have dark brown and black bodies and variations like yellowish-white speckles and bands along their bodies. California, Florida and Eastern Kingsnakes are mostly banded with the chain-like pattern. California Kings have thinner and more white than yellow bands. Mexican Black kingsnakes are truly unique species of Kingsnakes with jet-black pattern and  Brook Kingsnakes is one of the unique subspecies with speckled pattern and light brown in color.

Temperature

Kings originated from the northern U.S, and northern Mexico. They are cold blooded, which means they depend on the environment to determine their body temperature. They like fairly warm temperatures and are mostly active at night time though they need to be cooled off if they want to. Kings require a warmer temperature of 80 to 85 degrees. To reach this temperature, the heaters or heat tape or heat cable can be used. These temperatures can be easily controlled by using a thermometer. The cool temperature is between 75-80 degrees. At night it can drop to 72 degrees.  

Humidity

Ensuring correct humidity levels is essential to respiratory health as well as shedding. Kingsnakes are best between 40 to 60% humidity range. To maintain these humidity levels, placing the water bowl is helpful. Misting by water spray is usually sufficient. Humid cave stuffed with damp, clean sphagnum moss is also a good idea for maintaining the humidity level.

Lighting

Kingsnakes are mostly active during dawn and dusk (noctual). Providing the light in the enclosure helps to regulate this kind of day-night rhythm. Usually kingsnake does not require a UV bulb or other special lighting. If you are choosing to add a basking bulb to add more light to the snake, make sure that you are maintaining the proper heat level. It should not be more than  88o F of temperature.

Handling

Kingsnakes make excellent pets and are popular one. From their banded dark brown or black to white or yellow, the variety of colours and patterns found in kings is truly attractive. Once they warm up, they become easy to handle and friendly in nature.

Handling your snake, care must be taken. When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Generally Kingsnakes are large in size so be careful while holding a snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Kingsnakes are carnivores in nature that means they are meat eaters and can eat whole animals at times. New born king snakes require to feed pinky mice a week while they are growing, increasing the size of prey as it grows. The adult kingsnakes require to be fed 1 to 2 mice every 10 to 14 days.

For healthy nutrition, you can feed them a variety of food. You can offer them different kinds of food like lizards, quail eggs and young rats or so. Place a large water bowl in the enclosure at all times. You can change the water at least twice a week. Replacing water daily is better yet. 

Potential health issues

Proper care and correct nutrition is a key to the health of snakes. With consistent husbandry, snakes can live a long life. 

The following are some common health issues for your Kingsnake:

Mouth rot 

Mouth rot is a secondary infection that comes out due to a low immune system. It can occur from untreated mouth injury. The symptoms of this are swelling and discharge. It can be treated with antibiotics by a veterinarian. 

Scale rot

Scale rot comes out due to moist or dirty enclosure of substrate. It happens because of bacterial growth in substrates. In that case, allow your snake to heal on clean paper towels for some time to be cured. It can be controlled by cleaning the cage consistently.

Mites

Mites cause skin irritation to snakes. It can be treated with proper treatment and over the counter products.

Signs they are healthy

·   Hunting/foraging behaviors

·   Eating regularly

·   Sheds are intact with eye caps

Sickness Symptoms

·   Self-soaking for several hours at a time

·   Refusing prey

·   Stuck shed on eyes or body

Subtract Nature

Substrates should always be easy to clean. New born King snakes like Newspapers, reptile carpet and paper towels. They easily burrow in this enclosure. Aspen bedding is the most popular snake bedding option. Kings are happily maintained on aspen bedding. It can be changed every 7 to 6 days. Coconut husk is also the best choice as it is organic and has no odor. Pine or cedar shaving is toxic to the snakes. Its aromatic oils can cause irritation and respiratory issues in your snake. It is recommended to never use these bedding. It is important that whatever substrate you use must be odor and dust free. Cleaning is essential! The substrate should be completely replaced every 7 to 8 weeks.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

The coconut bedding is an all natural, organic bedding option for your snake without investing much money. Coconut husk resists the  foul odor and leaves in fresh air. The coconut husk is a dust-free and odor-free bedding option which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It does not mold and is highly absorbent.

Advantages:

  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic 

Disadvantages:

  • Does not retain humidity longer 
  • Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. For small cages, paper towels can work superior. It’s versatile and you can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. It’s not easy to burrow in a newspaper, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the snakes.

Advantages:

  • It is affordable
  • It is one of the most versatile bedding options
  • More suitable for hatchings

Disadvantages:

  • Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers 
  • Wet or damp newspapers can cause skin irritation for snakes

Aspen Shaving

Aspen bedding is the most popular kind of snake bedding. Aspen shaving is not too expensive and it is an ideal bedding option for King snakes. It is made up of wood and it is chemical free. You can completely replace it by paying cheaply. It absorbs and prevents the odors from waste. The substrate is free of chemicals or toxic oils and is perfectly safe for pets. 

Advantages:

·   It is affordable

·   Excellent absorbing and clean-up

·   Snakes like to burrow in this

Disadvantages:

·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

Conclusion

Kingsnakes are truly attractive and beautiful snakes. They are adequate in size and easy to handle. They are hardy animals that eat well and are typically very friendly once warm up with the owner. Making them feel comfortable is all up to the owner. Proper diet and right enclosure must be provided to the snake for their health.
The king snake is excellent and one of the most popular snakes for beginners.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Green Tree Python

There are few other snakes that will receive more nervous glances from guests than the green tree python. They look more deadly than the truly venomous green tree viper.  But in reality, they are harmless. These arboreal snakes do spend a great deal of time in trees, but are active animals that need space to move and groove on the ground as well.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Although a bright neon green is a predominant colour in adults, they can also come in a wide variety of other colours. Hatchlings usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long, growing between 4 and 6 feet as adults, with females being thicker and longer than males. They can live up to 20 years of age with proper care.

These snakes have a reputation for being aggressive. Actually, the times they strike at handlers is when they are being approached from above or yanked aggressively from a limb. There are simple ways that a handler can prevent a crabby snake attack. Correct habitat design is one way, and will be discussed below.

Another way to keep your snake’s temper sweet is to always approach the animal from below. Imagine yourself sunning on a lounger beside the ocean, dozing off now and then in the pleasant warmth. Suddenly, a giant hand descends from the clouds to snatch you up and take you somewhere else that you may not want to be! You’d be crabby too.

Although this pet may not be a good choice for a hasty or thoughtless pet keeper, mindful handling generally prevents most snake and handler disagreements. With that being said, some races are just naturally more aggressive than others, such as the colourful Biak locality type. If ease of handling is important, then the potential python owner needs to consult with various breeders.  Those breeders will inform you which species have the most placid temperaments.

Most green tree pythons can be expected to live into their mid-teens with good care. A few have even made it into their mid-20s.

Temperature Requirements

Green trees originate from the rainforest, and they need it to be fairly humid. Like all reptiles, they are dependent on external thermoregulation to control their body temperature. This essentially means you need to provide a hot and a cool side to your enclosure. All the heat elements should be on one side and the other will then be the cool side. This way your green tree can move back and forth between the different temperatures depending on its needs.

The hot side basking spot should be at 86-88 degrees. The cool side can be between 78-80 degrees. At night, it can drop down to 72 ambient temperatures. The basking light should be housed in a good quality light dome like Exo Terra and Flukers that has a ceramic housing to tolerate high heat and an on/off switch. 

Humidity

The green tree python requires high relative humidity levels to thrive. The humidity levels need not drop below 40 percent. As a species native to tropical rainforest, the tree python experiences rain almost every day throughout the year. Similarly, you need to mist the enclosure daily using a spray bottle. The enclosure needs to dry between sprayings.

The snake will drink the water droplets on the leaves, and side of the cage. However, you need to provide a water bowl. The bowl should be heavy and sturdy so it is not easily overturned.

Lighting

As with most snakes, special UVB lighting is optional. However, to maintain the vivid green coloration of this python, it is a good idea to use a full spectrum light if the snake’s enclosure does not receive sunlight. An excellent full-spectrum light that also provides warmth is the Evergreen 100 Watt UVA/UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb which has already been mentioned. You can use a heat lamp that provides full-spectrum light. The lights need to be on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.

Handling

Green tree pythons have gotten a bad rap over the years. They have a reputation of being aggressive. The best thing to do if you want to handle your snake is to have a removable perch. Then you can remove the animal from its enclosure without disturbing it from its resting place. If you want to hold your snake, approach it from below, which is far less threatening than from above. Try not to pull the snake off of its perch. Gently lift the snake’s coils and offer your arm as another perch. Most green trees will tolerate limited handling. The handling aside, green trees make wonderful display animals.

Cleaning

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Performing sanitation weekly is more beneficial for your snake. This is because snake feces can become rank in a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

You have to daily remove all the feces that you see. Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh. You can do this once a week. Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Diet

As hatchlings, green tree pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted pinky mice, as the snake grows the food size should be increased. Adult green tree pythons can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

A large water bowl should be provided and the water should be changed every day to ensure there is always fresh drinking water.

Potential health threats

In order to detect health issues, you need to pay close attention to their appearance and behaviour. That way you can notice changes in appetite, weight, or movement. Common health issues that affect this reptile include dehydration, obesity, tail hanging, rectal prolapse (protrusion of bowels outside the cloaca during or after defecation), necrotic stomatitis (mouth rot), and MBD (metabolic bone disease).

If you notice changes such as lethargy, loss of appetite, regurgitation, wheezing cough, or bloody bowels, you should contact your local herp vet.

Substrate Nature

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Similar to a fancy cat box type of setup. Absorbent sheets in the bottom of a false set up are fairly affordable.  And they will greatly reduce urine odour and eliminate urine from the substrate very quickly.

If you forgo the false bottom option, and start with a simpler, solid bottomed setup, you should line the bottom with either paper towels, or some other type of absorbent material.  A 2-inch layer of cypress shavings is favoured by most snake keepers. If possible, try to purchase cypress substrate from an earth-friendly supplier.  Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation.

The floor of the terrarium should be moist, not wet. It is of little consequence to the animal when deciding how to get there, there are many good choices. Coco base, whether they be fiber or chips. Mix them, layer them, lay them out uniformly – as long as it’s kept moist, you’ll be providing an appropriate substrate layer. Live or sphag moss can be centred around areas that get a lot of misting attention, around the water source is also a fine place to keep moss.

Bedding Type Available

Coconut Fiber

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

This may be the best choice for trying coconut bedding without paying a high price. The coconut does a great job of encapsulating and then breaking down odours from the waste. It also helps make the clean-up easier by clumping somewhat around the waste. This bedding is non-toxic and chemical free. This also makes the bedding fragrance-free, which is another sign of no chemicals. One of the best additional features of this coconut fiber bedding is the specific design to be dust-free. This is an organic product and safe for the environment.

Advantages:

·   Coarse material suitable for burrowing

·   Odour-free, Dust-free

·   No chemicals

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Newspaper and Paper Towel

Newspapers work and are easy as well as cheap.  Paper towels can work in rack systems and smaller cages. It’s versatile, so you can lay the newspaper on the bottom of your snake’s cage, or you can shred it to increase the surface area. It won’t hold on to urates that well, but the shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. Care must be taken to remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the python.

Advantages:

·   Affordable

Disadvantages:

·   Snake can’t easily burrow in newspaper

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch Bedding are decent substrates and have the added benefits of looking more naturalistic as well as absorbing odours. Cypress mulch looks nice, again helping to create a natural-looking enclosure.

Advantages:

·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold

Disadvantages:

·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Conclusion

Many substrates are suitable for green tree python enclosures. Newspapers are easy to clean, but it’s not aesthetically pleasing for some people.
Whatever substrate you use, the 2-3 inches of depth. This is a good balance, allowing the corn snake to burrow. The best choice for you and your python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Carpet Python

Carpet Pythons are popular among diverse pet snakes for their vivid appearance. They exhibit a dazzling array of patterns, color variations that mimic beautiful woven carpets that are widely found in the Middle East. Often portrayed as a snake with an attitude and a nippy disposition, carpet pythons generally become used to handling and can even be docile. Additionally, carpet pythons are intelligent and curious snakes that are mostly seen in pet stores. 

Carpet pythons can be a rewarding species for your own good, if you understand this species and its needs. The following guide contains important information to help you determine if the carpet python is the next snake for you.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Because of their semi-arboreal nature, carpet pythons have a slender build. Their colours are wide-ranging, depending on the subspecies. The jungle carpet python has a striking appearance with its black and yellow markings. The coastal carpet python is brownish with yellow stripes, while Irian Jayas is brownish with tan-coloured markings. Diamond carpet pythons are black coloured with yellow or white dots. Just as with colour, the size of adult carpet pythons is dependent upon the subspecies. 

From smaller ones, like Irian Jaya (5 feet) till matured Coast carpet pythons (9 feet), these snakes grow in an advanced passion. In many species of carpet pythons, the male and female are of similar size. However, female diamond and coastal carpet pythons are often larger than the males. Carpet pythons are long-lived and commonly live over 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

A temperature gradient is a must and should for a caged snake. In particular, carpet snakes prefer warm basking, and the temperature maintained within the container should be 32o C high, and 26o C at low. During night, the temperature should be dropped to 70o F to mimic the natural environment. 

In order to maintain the regulating temperature within the enclosure or the cage, static equipment is much in need. Like, the Ceramic heat emitter or Radiant heat panel, one that is mounted on top of the larger cage. And the heat pad/ flex watt tage that is placed beneath at smaller ones. 

Humidity

The Carpet Python requires moderate humidity of about 50 – 60% which should be easily reached with good substrate choices and misting. You will mist according to the readings of an accurate digital hygrometer to ensure this humidity isn’t exceeded which can become detrimental to the snake, by promoting bacterial growth. 

It is apt to provide a dish full of water or a pooling area for the snakes to rest and bathe. This way, the atmosphere remains hydrated, leaving behind sufficient humid temperature for skin shedding as well. The dish should be cleaned regularly and hygiene must be maintained prior.

Lighting

The snakes are in much need of UVB rays in their source lighting, which promotes a healthy environment for better snake growth. Normal lighting or heating for carpet snakes are provided in the form of Basking bulbs or Ceramic heat mats. But a full spectrum light is recommended for the snake breeders for regulating lighting year round. 

A basking temperature of around 32oC should be maintained during the day, with cooler areas around 22-25oC which will enable your snake to respond properly.

Handling

Carpet Pythons are semi-arboreal snake species, which have a natural defensive stance by nature. So care must be taken while handling the snakes. 

  • Gradually increase the amount of time you engage with them.
  • When handling carpet snakes, support the whole snake body with your hand. Like these snakes happens to perch on branches, raising your hand overhead will give them a calming effect.
  • Avoid touching the snake’s head as it repulse back in defense.
  •  Let it move around your hands while you support its body, that way it creates a secure feel within this species.

Diet

Carpet Pythons are good eaters and tend to be overweight easily. Schedule and a regular routine should always be in check.  As these pythons grow, the feed quantity should also be increased.

For the younger hatchling to one-year-old it is advised to feed once a week, during this period a lot of protein is required which are provided in the form of mice and chicks. For adult pythons, larger rats, guinea pigs or even small rabbits are suffice to be fed on every 2 to 3 weeks.

Food should be defrosted and preferably warmed up before feeding to snakes. Handling snakes should be avoided for the next 48 hours to reduce the risk of regurgitation.

Potential Health Issues

The following are potential health issues for your carpet python:

·   Mites: Check your carpet python for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for pythons. 

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your carpet python is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

The following are health warning signs for your carpet python:

·   Lack of appetite

·   Spending excessive amounts of time submerged in its water bowl

·   Emitting a wheezing sound when breathing

·   Discharge, which can be fluid, from their nostrils or mouth.·   Diarrhea

Substrate Nature

Carpet python can be successfully raised on any type of substrate of your choice. Regardless of the substrate you choose, it is important to spot-clean the substrate daily. The substrate should be changed regularly after 6 to 8 days. 

There are many different substrates that can be used for a Carpet Python. Just newspaper can be used, but your snake will appreciate something natural. Aspen shavings and Cypress mulch are two safe and popular substrates. 

If you are specially buying for snakes, then make sure it does not have any added chemicals. You can start with Coconut husk for snakes as it forms a very good choice in means of natural, organic, odor-dust-free, does not inflict any harm to snakes and environment. 

Avoid using Pine, Walnut, or Cedar bedding. These substrates have oils and a strong smell that can irritate your snake. Eliminate the dust from wood shavings before putting them in the enclosure. Dust from shavings can be irritating to your snake and dehydrate them as well. Cleaning is most important. Whatever substrates you use It should be changed completely every 6 to 8 weeks.

The following is a list of bedding can be used for Carpet Snake:

  • Coconut Husk 
  • Cypress mulch
  • Newspaper

Bedding Types

Coconut Husk

The coconut bedding is an all natural, organic bedding option for your snake without investing much money. Coconut is helpful for encapsulating and breaking the foul odor. The coconut husk is a dust-free and odor-free bedding option which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It does not mold and is highly absorbent.

Advantages:

  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic 

Disadvantages:

  • Does not retain humidity longer. 

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is a comfortable bedding for snakes. It looks attractive and natural. It has a property of absorbing odor. This substrate is helpful for retaining moisture. It helps to create a natural looking enclosure for snakes so that they can feel comfortable.

Advantages:

  • Retain moisture
  • It does not mold

Disadvantages:

  • Costly
  • Risk of pest infestation

Newspaper

Newspapers are widely used for snake bedding because it’s readily available. They are really very cheap and easy to handle and replace. You can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspaper but shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. But care must be taken, the wet newspaper can causes skin infection

Advantages:

  • Affordable
  • easy to use.

Disadvantages:

  • Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

Conclusion

Carpet python are the chosen pet snakes for docile and intermediate temperamental after taming. They are of manageable size and do not inflict any injuries for breeders. Carpet snakes are a smart-inquisitive snake species that you need to be mindful of. 

Carpet python goes well with any kind of substrate you provide. The substrate has to be of 2-3 inches of depth and good at aeration and allowing snakes to borrow. The choice of substrate selection is felt to the best of the breeders’ and snake needs. But the type, source, and depth of the substrate will have a significant impact on your pet snake health and activity.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Ball Python

Ball pythons, or royal pythons as they are sometimes referred, are endemic to tropical western Africa, with the majority originating in the countries of Ghana and Togo. These snakes are secretive by nature, spending much time in underground burrows or abandoned termite mounds.

Behaviour

Ball pythons are among the smaller species of pythons commonly available to hobbyists. They typically measure 10 to 15 inches as hatchlings, and adults may reach lengths of 3.5 to 6 feet with just over 4 feet being average. Females are usually longer and heavier bodied than males. Properly cared for ball pythons can be expected to live for over 20 years.

The right substrate needs to be chosen for ball python to be comfortable. A healthy snake needs a healthy substrate. The substrate of choice depends on availability, affordability, and how easy it is to clean. There are many options available such as aspen shaving, cypress mulch, coconut fiber, and even paper towels.

There are a few things you need to know when choosing right bedding for Ball Python which includes following factors:

Temperature requirements

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

However, as tropical snakes, they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees. These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.

Humidity

Ball pythons require localized areas of high humidity within their cages. Once or twice daily misting of the entire enclosure with room temperature water in a hand spray bottle should be adequate in most situations.

Lighting

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

These are tropical snakes so they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees.  These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. In fully enclosed cages such as vision cages and penn plax cages, use of a radiant heat panel can be a convenient and unobtrusive way to heat the cage.

Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.Use of a thermometer, especially one that records a min and max temperature within the cage, is recommended.

Handling

Ball pythons are by far one of the easiest snake species to handle. Although hatchlings can be nervous and nippy, this behaviour usually disappears within the first few months of life. As naturally shy animals, ball pythons tend to be slow moving, and content to casually explore their surroundings by crawling through one’s hands.

Diet

All snakes are carnivores, and ball pythons are no exception. In captivity a diet of mice and rats will suffice. Even hatchling balls are capable of subduing and swallowing small, adult mice, while adults may require large rats.

Generally, food items should be offered once a week for the snake’s entire life. However, this regimen may change based on the age of the snake, time of year, and pre and post breeding conditions.

Habitat Maintenance

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week. Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of bleach smell and dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate.

Cleaning

Whichever substrate you choose, spot clean as necessary. Due to the nature of snake urine and feces, complete changes of bedding and tank cleaning may be required frequently. If for some reason your python has managed not to make a mess for an entire month, the substrate should be replaced monthly, or at very least once every quarter.

 Enclosure

Ball pythons originate in the forests and grasslands of Africa, where the humidity is always relatively high. Different substrates will affect the humidity level of your enclosure differently. So must choose the substrates which can be helpful to maintain the humidity level. While not a particularly common activity, some ball pythons may enjoy burrowing and excavating in their substrate. Loose substrates that allow for this can enrich the life of your captive snake.

The damp moss and tight quarters help these shy snakes to feel safe and secure. Reptile bark (orchid bark), cypress mulch, pulverized coconut husk (bed-a-beast), or a mixture of both are prime choices. Avoid any excessively drying bedding including pine shavings, sand, or paper products. And never use a cedar bedding…cedar is toxic to all snakes! 

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

Coconut husk is made from roughly chopped chunks of coconut shell. It’s widely considered the best substrate choice for ball pythons and other tropical reptile and amphibian species. Coconut husk can absorb large amounts of water, so it helps drastically with maintaining adequate humidity levels. But this cannot be used for burrowing due to the large size of husk chunks.

Advantages:

·   Retains moisture.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   Dust free and odours free.

Disadvantages:

·   large chunks of coconut husk may cause impaction

Coconut Fiber

Coconut Fiber or coconut coir is made from very finely ground coconut shells. It creates a fibrous soil that can be dense or light and fluffy, depending on how moist it is. Coconut Fiber is excellent at retaining moisture and maintaining humidity, probably the best choice for this purpose. Being very soil-like in nature, coconut fiber is perfect for allowing your ball python to burrow.

Advantages:

·   It is the best for ball python eggs or at least one of the best.

·   It absorbs bad odours.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels for snakes.

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Aspen Bedding

Aspen shavings may just be the best snake bedding. Ball python is comfortable on this bedding. This material is preferred because of its affordability and portability. They are absorbent, contain no toxic oils or resins, and are great for the environment. Aspen shavings do not help maintain humidity levels. In fact, they can dry the air out. Aspen bedding can be great for burrowing ball pythons.

Advantages:

·   It is very affordable.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels.

·   Its light colour looks great in the snake’s vivarium.

·   It is super absorbent.

Disadvantages:

·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

The bedding should be avoided are include

Cedar Shavings

Cedar wood shavings can help repel unwanted creatures. The phenols given off in the scent of cedar oil is repellent to snakes. Cedar has long been used in closets because it’s naturally resistant to insects and decay. Unfortunately, cedar is one of the most dangerous woods for reptiles and should not be used in their care at all. Reptiles exposed to cedar may exhibit respiratory symptoms or develop skin lesions.

Pine Shavings

Pine that has not been kiln dried contains volatile oils which can cause respiratory problems in reptiles. It can also cause these symptoms in small furries. This bedding is not suitable for snakes. They can cause lung and eye irritation. This bedding can be toxic.

Sand

Although a common substrate for many reptiles, sand unfortunately is notorious for promoting the growth of mold. On top of this, it also reduces humidity, can irritate the respiratory tract, and can cause impactions due to its clumping properties.

Paper Towels, Newspaper, and Butcher Block Paper

It is an easy-to-clean and simple aesthetic that makes them low maintenance and ideal for temporary husbandry. Paper will absorb moisture, but it’s not particularly useful for impacting the enclosure’s humidity. Ball pythons can’t exactly burrow and dig in sheets of paper, but some do enjoy hiding underneath it.

Conclusion

There are many safe and ideal types of substrates to choose from. The best choice for you and your ball python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

Fortunately, if you aren’t happy with the substrate that you pick, you can always change it up during the next cage cleaning. If you switch it up enough and carefully observe your snake, you might even discover which one they enjoy the most!

rosy boa caringCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rosy Boa

Rosy Boa are docile beings that make an excellent pet among snakes. They are nocturnal creatures, mainly feeding on mices and small mammals. It belongs to the same boa family that are native to south-western America, northwestern Mexico. Boidae are snake species for pet lovers , non-venomous, heavy-bodied and are frequently kept in captivity.   

These non-poisonous snakes are able to defend themselves by releasing a foul-smelling musk from the base of the tail while threatening. Rosy boas are found in different locations that cause the color and pattern of the species to differ. Typically, rosy boas have three stripes of color that run laterally down the tail which entitled them as ‘three-lined boas’.

So the living expectations of boas are surely at another level. Their dwellings must meet the ends of boas’ requirements and if you’re planning on raising a rosy boa , you need to be mindful of these factors before you make any moves. 

The first and the foremost need is boa habitat in bedding/ substrate, the material used to line the bottom of the boa enclosures. The best bedding needs to be clean, natural and free of mites and harmful chemicals. 

The bedding type needs to keep the enclosure humid, aerated, and warm. It has to form a 2” layer in order to maintain optimal heat and humidity for the boas borrowing under them.

Young rosy boas are approximately 10 inches in length. Adults can reach 4 feet in length, but this is rare. They generally reach a length of about 36 inches. The record age for a rosy boa is more than 60 years.  This requires excellent husbandry and sanitation.  And as a caring boa owner, it’s likely they’ll receive this care, so plan on a long life for your new pet snake if you provide proper care.

Rosy boas are primarily diurnal by habit.  But if the weather is hot, they will burrow during the day and emerge at night. In a climate-controlled setting, it can expect that to see them regularly during the day.  And at this time during the day, they can be handled.

What good bedding for Rosy Boa needs to include?

Temperature Requirements

Provide your boa with a basking spot temperature of 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and an ambient temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. Nowhere in the habitat should the ambient temperature be less than 67 degrees. It’s important to take readings at the surface of the bottom of the warm side, the cooler side, and any basking areas. A basking lamp can be provided, but it must be carefully placed so that it can never exceed 90 degrees F at the closest possible point to the snake. Most experienced keepers recommend an under-tank heating mat, especially for night time usage.

Humidity

Humidity can be a problem for Rosy Boas, so make sure to keep the humidity low. Provide a small water dish, and clean it up right away if it’s spilled. You can even remove the water bowl and only make it available one day a week. Spot clean the enclosure for urates and feces once a week, and every 3 months, remove all substrate and clean and disinfect the tank and décor.

Nutrition and Diet

Rosy boas are voracious feeders and will eagerly eat one appropriately sized meal every 5 to 7 days. Very large adults may be offered food slightly less often. The diet should consist of pinky or fuzzy mice for young snakes, and then gradually larger food items as the snake matures. A properly sized meal should leave a slight, but noticeable, bulge in the snake’s mid-section. 

Substrate Nature

Rosy boas are one of a small handful of common pet herps that can be safely kept on sand. While washed play sand will work, coloured sands designed specifically for reptiles may be a better choice. They are 100% clean, and because they are of a finer grain, will clump easily when soiled, and are less likely to be abrasive to a reptile’s skin.

However rosy boas are a highly adaptable species, and will thrive on a variety of other commonly available substrates. Sani-Chips (heat-treated aspen chips) is a personal favourite, while repti-bark and paper pulp products will work as well. Provide a layer of bedding deep enough for your snake to burrow and completely hide itself.

These snakes are secretive by nature, and require a variety of secure, dark hiding spots within their enclosure. Curved slabs of cork bark, half logs, and driftwood all make acceptable additions to a rosy boa terrarium.

Handling

Rosy boas are quite placid and innocuous snakes, and reluctant to bite under most circumstances. Handle your rosy boa gently and deliberately, but do not drop or injure the animal. Most rosy boas will become more accustomed to handling and will settle down considerably and become quite docile and personable pets to keep.

Cleaning and Habitat Sanitation

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Attending sanitation weekly is something you will thank yourself for, because snake feces can become rank is a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

Daily: Spot remove any feces that you see.

Weekly: Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh.

Bi-weekly: Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Bedding Common options for Rosy Boa Snake bedding include:

Requirements

The best snake bedding or substrate to use with this snake is aspen snake bedding. This type of bedding does not hold moisture, making it ideal for snakes that do not need humid environments. It is also a good substrate for burrowing.

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Sort of a fancy cat box type of setup. If you begin with a solid, glass bottom, you line the bottom with paper towels.  Then, you’ll need to place a fluffy, absorbent material on top of the paper towels. 

Enclosure Type

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate. Use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. The shavings get moldy from too much moisture, and particles can get under a large snake’s scales on its belly, which causes irritation. Aspen shaving is an ideal paper Bedding Rosy Boa. It is soft and comfortable Pet Bedding. It is super absorbent. It is chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding.

Advantages:

·   Affordable

·   Excellent absorbing and clean-up

·   Snakes like to burrow in this

Disadvantages:

·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Boa Constrictor

Info

Boa constrictor is a one large, heavy bodied snake belonging to the family, Boidae. Commonly found in tropical South America and islands of Caribbean. Boas live in a wide variety of environmental conditions like tropical rainforest to semi desert lands. 

Boas are generally found in captive breeding, the 2 major breeds of boas that are common among breeders are Red-tail boas (Boa constrictor constrictor) and Northern boas (Boa Constrictor Imperator). They are quite docile in temperament and and live comfortably in humid temperature, after taming they become quiet and calm pets. 

Boa is a nocturnal species that’s active at night and sleeps at day. It is fairly a low maintenance snake and doesn’t require much care in daily routine and their dietary feeds are on the mark. They are non-venomous snakes, so the only self-defense is their inherent strength, they coil around the prey, wrap tightly around the jawline, squeezing, finally crashing the bones.  

Behavior and Temperament

Boas are typically active, alert and prefer seclusion by burrowing themselves in medium sized mammal holes, by doing so they hide from their potential predators. The younger boas (like semi-arboreal) are good swimmers, climbing into trees and shrubs to forage. As it gets older, boas become more terrestrial. 

While living among people, boas tend to agitate when mishandled. So, it’s important to know how to hold in the right way, so it feels secure and free. Boas are quite temperamental and need time to get along. It often loosely wraps around you for more comfort and only constricts when it feels alarmed (like falling or manhandling). 

Humidity and Temperature

The origin of boas is from tropical rainforests that have lower humidity range of 60-70%. And prefers warm temperature in the enclosure. During the day, it must be maintained at 82-90o F, at night 78-85o F. 

The temperature of hot spots (where snake movements are highest) should be between 90-95o F.  

The temperature of hotspots (where snake movements are maximum) should be between 90-95o F. The enclosure environment should be held at high regards as such 

  • Providing a combination of incandescent bulbs, ceramic heating elements and heat pads. 
  • Sun barking is the common habit of snakes, which provides Vitamin D in sunlight,
  • Placing a bowl of water in the enclosure will raise humidity and bring along mist around.

Boa constrictors, like many snakes, need specific types of bedding to keep their tanks clean and their bodies healthy. Unfortunately, there are hundreds and hundreds of products out there, all claiming to be the best.

The best bedding for boa constrictors needs to be clean and natural. Free of mites and chemicals, the substrate needs to form a 2″ inch layer on the bottom of the tank. It needs to help retain heat and humidity while also being something the boa constrictor will burrow into.

What good bedding for boa constrictors needs to include?

Material

The material of a substrate is an essential element to consider. Not everything works well with boa constrictors. Keep in mind, the park instructor is semi-arboreal and usually lives in forest-tropical areas. Your substrate in captivity should emulate what they have in their natural forest floor. Shavings from trees or fibers are always good options.

Cleanliness

The other primary concern for boa constrictor bedding is how clean the material is. You might feel like you’re saving money by going to your local hardware store to buy some wood chips. But these wood chips are often treated with chemicals. So, it might not seem like it at first, but when the material gets wet, it often leaks these chemicals. It causes the boa constrictor skin to get irritated and possibly infected; these chemicals may kill your pet. The substrate from reputable pet dealers will always be clean and free of chemicals.

Heat And Moisture Retention

One of the great benefits of a substrate, especially for boa constrictors, is how some will help retain heat and humidity in the tank. Boas need a large space, especially when fully grown. It takes a lot of healing power to keep the tank where it needs to be. It’s the same with humidity.

Help With Droppings

One of the main reasons to get bedding from the owner’s perspective is to help with cleaning up poop. The good substrate will clump up around the droppings and make clean-up easier. The really good substrate may even begin to disinfect and kill the bacteria from the droppings. This is usually due to a higher quality material such as coconut fibers or coco chips.  

Boa constrictors, at minimum, need an enclosure equal to the length long and half the length wide and high. The floor space should be covered with 2″ inches of substrate. This adds up to a lot of material quickly. Take, for example, an average bola constrictor at 8′ feet long. This means you’ll need floor space covered of at least 8′ x 4′ feet or 32′ ft.² of floor covering. Then, you need to cover this whole area with 2″ inches of substrate. Balance quality with your budget, but pick from our list, and you likely won’t be disappointed in either area.

Common options for boa constrictor bedding include:

Aspen shavings

Aspen bedding is one of the most common pets and snake substrates. It’s clean and free of mites or other bugs. It is a chemical free bedding option for your pet. The aspen provides something for the boa constrictor to burrow in. It holds on to heat and absorbs droppings. The only thing it doesn’t handle well is getting wet. Aspen shaving bedding is highly absorbent and tends to collect mold when wet. The aspen bedding doesn’t block the smells of droppings and other snake related things well.

Advantages:

·   Safe and suitable for burrowing

·   Retains heat well

·   A large amount of substrate providing good value

Disadvantages:

·   Absorbs too much when wet

·   May tend to mold when wet

Coconut fibers

Coconut makes an excellent substrate and is popular with reptile owners for several reasons. Coconut fibers absorb droppings well and break down bacteria and odours. Coconut fibers respond well to moisture and help maintain a steady level of humidity in the air. This is an entirely chemical-free and safe bedding option for your pet. It doesn’t hold on to heat as much as a substrate with more substance to them, but the difference is minimal. It doesn’t tend to mold and lasts a long time.

Advantages:

·   Long-lasting

·   Trap’s droppings and breaks down odours

·   Excellent at retaining humidity

Disadvantages:

·   Higher price for the amount of substrate

Coco chips

Coco chip bedding is similar to a standard coconut fiber substrate. It has many of the same benefits, including odour-reducing, clean and safe, and suitable for retaining humidity. The coco chips are coconut fibers broken down smaller and more fine compared with the typical coconut bedding. This helps make the coco chips better at retaining heat. However, it does make it messier to deal with.

Advantages:

·   Retains heat and humidity well

·   Good for burrowing

·   Trap’s droppings and reduces odours

Disadvantages:

·   May be too small for baby boa constrictors

Your boa constrictor needs you to make sound choices for its environment in order to guarantee a healthy and happy life. Remember, safety and cleanliness from good materials made by reputable dealers are the most important things to watch for.