a-guide-on-pet-snake-caring-green-tree-pythonCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Green Tree Python

There are few other snakes that will receive more nervous glances from guests than the green tree python. They look more deadly than the truly venomous green tree viper.  But in reality, they are harmless. These arboreal snakes do spend a great deal of time in trees, but are active animals that need space to move and groove on the ground as well.

Behaviour

Although a bright neon green is a predominant colour in adults, they can also come in a wide variety of other colours. Hatchlings usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long, growing between 4 and 6 feet as adults, with females being thicker and longer than males. They can live up to 20 years of age with proper care.

These snakes have a reputation for being aggressive. Actually, the times they strike at handlers is when they are being approached from above or yanked aggressively from a limb. There are simple ways that a handler can prevent a crabby snake attack. Correct habitat design is one way, and will be discussed below.

Another way to keep your snake’s temper sweet is to always approach the animal from below. Imagine yourself sunning on a lounger beside the ocean, dozing off now and then in the pleasant warmth. Suddenly, a giant hand descends from the clouds to snatch you up and take you somewhere else that you may not want to be! You’d be crabby too.

Although this pet may not be a good choice for a hasty or thoughtless pet keeper, mindful handling generally prevents most snake and handler disagreements. With that being said, some races are just naturally more aggressive than others, such as the colourful Biak locality type. If ease of handling is important, then the potential python owner needs to consult with various breeders.  Those breeders will inform you which species have the most placid temperaments.

Most green tree pythons can be expected to live into their mid-teens with good care. A few have even made it into their mid-20s.

Temperature Requirements

Green trees originate from the rainforest, and they need it to be fairly humid. Like all reptiles, they are dependent on external thermoregulation to control their body temperature. This essentially means you need to provide a hot and a cool side to your enclosure. All the heat elements should be on one side and the other will then be the cool side. This way your green tree can move back and forth between the different temperatures depending on its needs.

The hot side basking spot should be at 86-88 degrees. The cool side can be between 78-80 degrees. At night, it can drop down to 72 ambient temperatures. The basking light should be housed in a good quality light dome like Exo Terra and Flukers that has a ceramic housing to tolerate high heat and an on/off switch. 

Humidity

The green tree python requires high relative humidity levels to thrive. The humidity levels need not drop below 40 percent. As a species native to tropical rainforest, the tree python experiences rain almost every day throughout the year. Similarly, you need to mist the enclosure daily using a spray bottle. The enclosure needs to dry between sprayings.

The snake will drink the water droplets on the leaves, and side of the cage. However, you need to provide a water bowl. The bowl should be heavy and sturdy so it is not easily overturned.

Lighting

As with most snakes, special UVB lighting is optional. However, to maintain the vivid green coloration of this python, it is a good idea to use a full spectrum light if the snake’s enclosure does not receive sunlight. An excellent full-spectrum light that also provides warmth is the Evergreen 100 Watt UVA/UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb which has already been mentioned. You can use a heat lamp that provides full-spectrum light. The lights need to be on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.

Handling

Green tree pythons have gotten a bad rap over the years. They have a reputation of being aggressive. The best thing to do if you want to handle your snake is to have a removable perch. Then you can remove the animal from its enclosure without disturbing it from its resting place. If you want to hold your snake, approach it from below, which is far less threatening than from above. Try not to pull the snake off of its perch. Gently lift the snake’s coils and offer your arm as another perch. Most green trees will tolerate limited handling. The handling aside, green trees make wonderful display animals.

Cleaning

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Performing sanitation weekly is more beneficial for your snake. This is because snake feces can become rank in a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

You have to daily remove all the feces that you see. Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh. You can do this once a week. Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Diet

As hatchlings, green tree pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted pinky mice, as the snake grows the food size should be increased. Adult green tree pythons can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

A large water bowl should be provided and the water should be changed every day to ensure there is always fresh drinking water.

Potential health threats

In order to detect health issues, you need to pay close attention to their appearance and behaviour. That way you can notice changes in appetite, weight, or movement. Common health issues that affect this reptile include dehydration, obesity, tail hanging, rectal prolapse (protrusion of bowels outside the cloaca during or after defecation), necrotic stomatitis (mouth rot), and MBD (metabolic bone disease).

If you notice changes such as lethargy, loss of appetite, regurgitation, wheezing cough, or bloody bowels, you should contact your local herp vet.

Substrate Nature

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Similar to a fancy cat box type of setup. Absorbent sheets in the bottom of a false set up are fairly affordable.  And they will greatly reduce urine odour and eliminate urine from the substrate very quickly.

If you forgo the false bottom option, and start with a simpler, solid bottomed setup, you should line the bottom with either paper towels, or some other type of absorbent material.  A 2-inch layer of cypress shavings is favoured by most snake keepers. If possible, try to purchase cypress substrate from an earth-friendly supplier.  Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation.

The floor of the terrarium should be moist, not wet. It is of little consequence to the animal when deciding how to get there, there are many good choices. Coco base, whether they be fiber or chips. Mix them, layer them, lay them out uniformly – as long as it’s kept moist, you’ll be providing an appropriate substrate layer. Live or sphag moss can be centred around areas that get a lot of misting attention, around the water source is also a fine place to keep moss.

Bedding Type Available

Coconut Fiber

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

This may be the best choice for trying coconut bedding without paying a high price. The coconut does a great job of encapsulating and then breaking down odours from the waste. It also helps make the clean-up easier by clumping somewhat around the waste. This bedding is non-toxic and chemical free. This also makes the bedding fragrance-free, which is another sign of no chemicals. One of the best additional features of this coconut fiber bedding is the specific design to be dust-free. This is an organic product and safe for the environment.

Advantages:

·   Coarse material suitable for burrowing

·   Odour-free, Dust-free

·   No chemicals

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Newspaper and Paper Towel

Newspapers work and are easy as well as cheap.  Paper towels can work in rack systems and smaller cages. It’s versatile, so you can lay the newspaper on the bottom of your snake’s cage, or you can shred it to increase the surface area. It won’t hold on to urates that well, but the shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. Care must be taken to remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the python.

Advantages:

·   Affordable

Disadvantages:

·   Snake can’t easily burrow in newspaper

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch Bedding are decent substrates and have the added benefits of looking more naturalistic as well as absorbing odours. Cypress mulch looks nice, again helping to create a natural-looking enclosure.

Advantages:

·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold

Disadvantages:

·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Conclusion

Many substrates are suitable for green tree python enclosures. Newspapers are easy to clean, but it’s not aesthetically pleasing for some people.
Whatever substrate you use, the 2-3 inches of depth. This is a good balance, allowing the corn snake to burrow. The best choice for you and your python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

pet-breeding-caring-carpet-pythonCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Carpet Python

Carpet Pythons are popular among diverse pet snakes for their vivid appearance. They exhibit a dazzling array of patterns, color variations that mimic beautiful woven carpets that are widely found in the Middle East. Often portrayed as a snake with an attitude and a nippy disposition, carpet pythons generally become used to handling and can even be docile. Additionally, carpet pythons are intelligent and curious snakes that are mostly seen in pet stores. 

Carpet pythons can be a rewarding species for your own good, if you understand this species and its needs. The following guide contains important information to help you determine if the carpet python is the next snake for you.

Behaviour

Because of their semi-arboreal nature, carpet pythons have a slender build. Their colours are wide-ranging, depending on the subspecies. The jungle carpet python has a striking appearance with its black and yellow markings. The coastal carpet python is brownish with yellow stripes, while Irian Jayas is brownish with tan-coloured markings. Diamond carpet pythons are black coloured with yellow or white dots. Just as with colour, the size of adult carpet pythons is dependent upon the subspecies. 

From smaller ones, like Irian Jaya (5 feet) till matured Coast carpet pythons (9 feet), these snakes grow in an advanced passion. In many species of carpet pythons, the male and female are of similar size. However, female diamond and coastal carpet pythons are often larger than the males. Carpet pythons are long-lived and commonly live over 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

A temperature gradient is a must and should for a caged snake. In particular, carpet snakes prefer warm basking, and the temperature maintained within the container should be 32o C high, and 26o C at low. During night, the temperature should be dropped to 70o F to mimic the natural environment. 

In order to maintain the regulating temperature within the enclosure or the cage, static equipment is much in need. Like, the Ceramic heat emitter or Radiant heat panel, one that is mounted on top of the larger cage. And the heat pad/ flex watt tage that is placed beneath at smaller ones. 

Humidity

The Carpet Python requires moderate humidity of about 50 – 60% which should be easily reached with good substrate choices and misting. You will mist according to the readings of an accurate digital hygrometer to ensure this humidity isn’t exceeded which can become detrimental to the snake, by promoting bacterial growth. 

It is apt to provide a dish full of water or a pooling area for the snakes to rest and bathe. This way, the atmosphere remains hydrated, leaving behind sufficient humid temperature for skin shedding as well. The dish should be cleaned regularly and hygiene must be maintained prior.

Lighting

The snakes are in much need of UVB rays in their source lighting, which promotes a healthy environment for better snake growth. Normal lighting or heating for carpet snakes are provided in the form of Basking bulbs or Ceramic heat mats. But a full spectrum light is recommended for the snake breeders for regulating lighting year round. 

A basking temperature of around 32oC should be maintained during the day, with cooler areas around 22-25oC which will enable your snake to respond properly.

Handling

Carpet Pythons are semi-arboreal snake species, which have a natural defensive stance by nature. So care must be taken while handling the snakes. 

  • Gradually increase the amount of time you engage with them.
  • When handling carpet snakes, support the whole snake body with your hand. Like these snakes happens to perch on branches, raising your hand overhead will give them a calming effect.
  • Avoid touching the snake’s head as it repulse back in defense.
  •  Let it move around your hands while you support its body, that way it creates a secure feel within this species.

Diet

Carpet Pythons are good eaters and tend to be overweight easily. Schedule and a regular routine should always be in check.  As these pythons grow, the feed quantity should also be increased.

For the younger hatchling to one-year-old it is advised to feed once a week, during this period a lot of protein is required which are provided in the form of mice and chicks. For adult pythons, larger rats, guinea pigs or even small rabbits are suffice to be fed on every 2 to 3 weeks.

Food should be defrosted and preferably warmed up before feeding to snakes. Handling snakes should be avoided for the next 48 hours to reduce the risk of regurgitation.

Potential Health Issues

The following are potential health issues for your carpet python:

·   Mites: Check your carpet python for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for pythons. 

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your carpet python is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

The following are health warning signs for your carpet python:

·   Lack of appetite

·   Spending excessive amounts of time submerged in its water bowl

·   Emitting a wheezing sound when breathing

·   Discharge, which can be fluid, from their nostrils or mouth.·   Diarrhea

Substrate Nature

Carpet python can be successfully raised on any type of substrate of your choice. Regardless of the substrate you choose, it is important to spot-clean the substrate daily. The substrate should be changed regularly after 6 to 8 days. 

There are many different substrates that can be used for a Carpet Python. Just newspaper can be used, but your snake will appreciate something natural. Aspen shavings and Cypress mulch are two safe and popular substrates. 

If you are specially buying for snakes, then make sure it does not have any added chemicals. You can start with Coconut husk for snakes as it forms a very good choice in means of natural, organic, odor-dust-free, does not inflict any harm to snakes and environment. 

Avoid using Pine, Walnut, or Cedar bedding. These substrates have oils and a strong smell that can irritate your snake. Eliminate the dust from wood shavings before putting them in the enclosure. Dust from shavings can be irritating to your snake and dehydrate them as well. Cleaning is most important. Whatever substrates you use It should be changed completely every 6 to 8 weeks.

The following is a list of bedding can be used for Carpet Snake:

  • Coconut Husk 
  • Cypress mulch
  • Newspaper

Bedding Types

Coconut Husk

The coconut bedding is an all natural, organic bedding option for your snake without investing much money. Coconut is helpful for encapsulating and breaking the foul odor. The coconut husk is a dust-free and odor-free bedding option which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It does not mold and is highly absorbent.

Advantages:

  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic 

Disadvantages:

  • Does not retain humidity longer. 

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is a comfortable bedding for snakes. It looks attractive and natural. It has a property of absorbing odor. This substrate is helpful for retaining moisture. It helps to create a natural looking enclosure for snakes so that they can feel comfortable.

Advantages:

  • Retain moisture
  • It does not mold

Disadvantages:

  • Costly
  • Risk of pest infestation

Newspaper

Newspapers are widely used for snake bedding because it’s readily available. They are really very cheap and easy to handle and replace. You can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspaper but shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. But care must be taken, the wet newspaper can causes skin infection

Advantages:

  • Affordable
  • easy to use.

Disadvantages:

  • Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

Conclusion

Carpet python are the chosen pet snakes for docile and intermediate temperamental after taming. They are of manageable size and do not inflict any injuries for breeders. Carpet snakes are a smart-inquisitive snake species that you need to be mindful of. 

Carpet python goes well with any kind of substrate you provide. The substrate has to be of 2-3 inches of depth and good at aeration and allowing snakes to borrow. The choice of substrate selection is felt to the best of the breeders’ and snake needs. But the type, source, and depth of the substrate will have a significant impact on your pet snake health and activity.

ball python caringCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Ball Python

Ball pythons, or royal pythons as they are sometimes referred, are endemic to tropical western Africa, with the majority originating in the countries of Ghana and Togo. These snakes are secretive by nature, spending much time in underground burrows or abandoned termite mounds.

Behaviour

Ball pythons are among the smaller species of pythons commonly available to hobbyists. They typically measure 10 to 15 inches as hatchlings, and adults may reach lengths of 3.5 to 6 feet with just over 4 feet being average. Females are usually longer and heavier bodied than males. Properly cared for ball pythons can be expected to live for over 20 years.

The right substrate needs to be chosen for ball python to be comfortable. A healthy snake needs a healthy substrate. The substrate of choice depends on availability, affordability, and how easy it is to clean. There are many options available such as aspen shaving, cypress mulch, coconut fiber, and even paper towels.

There are a few things you need to know when choosing right bedding for Ball Python which includes following factors:

Temperature requirements

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

However, as tropical snakes, they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees. These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.

Humidity

Ball pythons require localized areas of high humidity within their cages. Once or twice daily misting of the entire enclosure with room temperature water in a hand spray bottle should be adequate in most situations.

Lighting

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

These are tropical snakes so they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees.  These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. In fully enclosed cages such as vision cages and penn plax cages, use of a radiant heat panel can be a convenient and unobtrusive way to heat the cage.

Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.Use of a thermometer, especially one that records a min and max temperature within the cage, is recommended.

Handling

Ball pythons are by far one of the easiest snake species to handle. Although hatchlings can be nervous and nippy, this behaviour usually disappears within the first few months of life. As naturally shy animals, ball pythons tend to be slow moving, and content to casually explore their surroundings by crawling through one’s hands.

Diet

All snakes are carnivores, and ball pythons are no exception. In captivity a diet of mice and rats will suffice. Even hatchling balls are capable of subduing and swallowing small, adult mice, while adults may require large rats.

Generally, food items should be offered once a week for the snake’s entire life. However, this regimen may change based on the age of the snake, time of year, and pre and post breeding conditions.

Habitat Maintenance

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week. Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of bleach smell and dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate.

Cleaning

Whichever substrate you choose, spot clean as necessary. Due to the nature of snake urine and feces, complete changes of bedding and tank cleaning may be required frequently. If for some reason your python has managed not to make a mess for an entire month, the substrate should be replaced monthly, or at very least once every quarter.

 Enclosure

Ball pythons originate in the forests and grasslands of Africa, where the humidity is always relatively high. Different substrates will affect the humidity level of your enclosure differently. So must choose the substrates which can be helpful to maintain the humidity level. While not a particularly common activity, some ball pythons may enjoy burrowing and excavating in their substrate. Loose substrates that allow for this can enrich the life of your captive snake.

The damp moss and tight quarters help these shy snakes to feel safe and secure. Reptile bark (orchid bark), cypress mulch, pulverized coconut husk (bed-a-beast), or a mixture of both are prime choices. Avoid any excessively drying bedding including pine shavings, sand, or paper products. And never use a cedar bedding…cedar is toxic to all snakes! 

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

Coconut husk is made from roughly chopped chunks of coconut shell. It’s widely considered the best substrate choice for ball pythons and other tropical reptile and amphibian species. Coconut husk can absorb large amounts of water, so it helps drastically with maintaining adequate humidity levels. But this cannot be used for burrowing due to the large size of husk chunks.

Advantages:

·   Retains moisture.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   Dust free and odours free.

Disadvantages:

·   large chunks of coconut husk may cause impaction

Coconut Fiber

Coconut Fiber or coconut coir is made from very finely ground coconut shells. It creates a fibrous soil that can be dense or light and fluffy, depending on how moist it is. Coconut Fiber is excellent at retaining moisture and maintaining humidity, probably the best choice for this purpose. Being very soil-like in nature, coconut fiber is perfect for allowing your ball python to burrow.

Advantages:

·   It is the best for ball python eggs or at least one of the best.

·   It absorbs bad odours.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels for snakes.

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Aspen Bedding

Aspen shavings may just be the best snake bedding. Ball python is comfortable on this bedding. This material is preferred because of its affordability and portability. They are absorbent, contain no toxic oils or resins, and are great for the environment. Aspen shavings do not help maintain humidity levels. In fact, they can dry the air out. Aspen bedding can be great for burrowing ball pythons.

Advantages:

·   It is very affordable.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels.

·   Its light colour looks great in the snake’s vivarium.

·   It is super absorbent.

Disadvantages:

·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

The bedding should be avoided are include

Cedar Shavings

Cedar wood shavings can help repel unwanted creatures. The phenols given off in the scent of cedar oil is repellent to snakes. Cedar has long been used in closets because it’s naturally resistant to insects and decay. Unfortunately, cedar is one of the most dangerous woods for reptiles and should not be used in their care at all. Reptiles exposed to cedar may exhibit respiratory symptoms or develop skin lesions.

Pine Shavings

Pine that has not been kiln dried contains volatile oils which can cause respiratory problems in reptiles. It can also cause these symptoms in small furries. This bedding is not suitable for snakes. They can cause lung and eye irritation. This bedding can be toxic.

Sand

Although a common substrate for many reptiles, sand unfortunately is notorious for promoting the growth of mold. On top of this, it also reduces humidity, can irritate the respiratory tract, and can cause impactions due to its clumping properties.

Paper Towels, Newspaper, and Butcher Block Paper

It is an easy-to-clean and simple aesthetic that makes them low maintenance and ideal for temporary husbandry. Paper will absorb moisture, but it’s not particularly useful for impacting the enclosure’s humidity. Ball pythons can’t exactly burrow and dig in sheets of paper, but some do enjoy hiding underneath it.

Conclusion

There are many safe and ideal types of substrates to choose from. The best choice for you and your ball python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

Fortunately, if you aren’t happy with the substrate that you pick, you can always change it up during the next cage cleaning. If you switch it up enough and carefully observe your snake, you might even discover which one they enjoy the most!

rosy boa caringCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rosy Boa

Rosy Boa are docile beings that make an excellent pet among snakes. They are nocturnal creatures, mainly feeding on mices and small mammals. It belongs to the same boa family that are native to south-western America, northwestern Mexico. Boidae are snake species for pet lovers , non-venomous, heavy-bodied and are frequently kept in captivity.   

These non-poisonous snakes are able to defend themselves by releasing a foul-smelling musk from the base of the tail while threatening. Rosy boas are found in different locations that cause the color and pattern of the species to differ. Typically, rosy boas have three stripes of color that run laterally down the tail which entitled them as ‘three-lined boas’.

So the living expectations of boas are surely at another level. Their dwellings must meet the ends of boas’ requirements and if you’re planning on raising a rosy boa , you need to be mindful of these factors before you make any moves. 

The first and the foremost need is boa habitat in bedding/ substrate, the material used to line the bottom of the boa enclosures. The best bedding needs to be clean, natural and free of mites and harmful chemicals. 

The bedding type needs to keep the enclosure humid, aerated, and warm. It has to form a 2” layer in order to maintain optimal heat and humidity for the boas borrowing under them.

Young rosy boas are approximately 10 inches in length. Adults can reach 4 feet in length, but this is rare. They generally reach a length of about 36 inches. The record age for a rosy boa is more than 60 years.  This requires excellent husbandry and sanitation.  And as a caring boa owner, it’s likely they’ll receive this care, so plan on a long life for your new pet snake if you provide proper care.

Rosy boas are primarily diurnal by habit.  But if the weather is hot, they will burrow during the day and emerge at night. In a climate-controlled setting, it can expect that to see them regularly during the day.  And at this time during the day, they can be handled.

What good bedding for Rosy Boa needs to include?

Temperature Requirements

Provide your boa with a basking spot temperature of 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and an ambient temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. Nowhere in the habitat should the ambient temperature be less than 67 degrees. It’s important to take readings at the surface of the bottom of the warm side, the cooler side, and any basking areas. A basking lamp can be provided, but it must be carefully placed so that it can never exceed 90 degrees F at the closest possible point to the snake. Most experienced keepers recommend an under-tank heating mat, especially for night time usage.

Humidity

Humidity can be a problem for Rosy Boas, so make sure to keep the humidity low. Provide a small water dish, and clean it up right away if it’s spilled. You can even remove the water bowl and only make it available one day a week. Spot clean the enclosure for urates and feces once a week, and every 3 months, remove all substrate and clean and disinfect the tank and décor.

Nutrition and Diet

Rosy boas are voracious feeders and will eagerly eat one appropriately sized meal every 5 to 7 days. Very large adults may be offered food slightly less often. The diet should consist of pinky or fuzzy mice for young snakes, and then gradually larger food items as the snake matures. A properly sized meal should leave a slight, but noticeable, bulge in the snake’s mid-section. 

Substrate Nature

Rosy boas are one of a small handful of common pet herps that can be safely kept on sand. While washed play sand will work, coloured sands designed specifically for reptiles may be a better choice. They are 100% clean, and because they are of a finer grain, will clump easily when soiled, and are less likely to be abrasive to a reptile’s skin.

However rosy boas are a highly adaptable species, and will thrive on a variety of other commonly available substrates. Sani-Chips (heat-treated aspen chips) is a personal favourite, while repti-bark and paper pulp products will work as well. Provide a layer of bedding deep enough for your snake to burrow and completely hide itself.

These snakes are secretive by nature, and require a variety of secure, dark hiding spots within their enclosure. Curved slabs of cork bark, half logs, and driftwood all make acceptable additions to a rosy boa terrarium.

Handling

Rosy boas are quite placid and innocuous snakes, and reluctant to bite under most circumstances. Handle your rosy boa gently and deliberately, but do not drop or injure the animal. Most rosy boas will become more accustomed to handling and will settle down considerably and become quite docile and personable pets to keep.

Cleaning and Habitat Sanitation

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Attending sanitation weekly is something you will thank yourself for, because snake feces can become rank is a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

Daily: Spot remove any feces that you see.

Weekly: Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh.

Bi-weekly: Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Bedding Common options for Rosy Boa Snake bedding include:

Requirements

The best snake bedding or substrate to use with this snake is aspen snake bedding. This type of bedding does not hold moisture, making it ideal for snakes that do not need humid environments. It is also a good substrate for burrowing.

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Sort of a fancy cat box type of setup. If you begin with a solid, glass bottom, you line the bottom with paper towels.  Then, you’ll need to place a fluffy, absorbent material on top of the paper towels. 

Enclosure Type

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate. Use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. The shavings get moldy from too much moisture, and particles can get under a large snake’s scales on its belly, which causes irritation. Aspen shaving is an ideal paper Bedding Rosy Boa. It is soft and comfortable Pet Bedding. It is super absorbent. It is chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding.

Advantages:

·   Affordable

·   Excellent absorbing and clean-up

·   Snakes like to burrow in this

Disadvantages:

·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks Worm Bedding

Why do Vermiculturist reach out for Coco Coir bedding ?

Worm Farming is a professional cultivation of worms for the cause of converting waste such as fruits, vegetables, food and animal faeces into organic fertilizers. 

A worm, as a key asset in balancing effective and efficient fertigation of compost needs to be well grown. 

Bedding gives off a fresh environment for worms, a space to move around and shelter.  

The worm bin bedding should regard every detailing that concerns worm growth-content-productivity. 

Worm farmers/ Vermiculturist decide on choice of bedding used for their worms based on the factors below. 

  • Non-abrasive
    The worm’s skin is delicate and can be easily hurt. 
  • Light weighed
    The bedding should be light-weighted, easy to carry even when wasted. 
  • Deeply aerated
    It is crucial for any bedding to allow air-water flow and lesser thick odor. 
  • High moisture
    Must retain water for a longer duration.
  • Neutral pH
    Neither being acidic nor basic gives bedding a neutrality as a bedding substrate. 
  • Fibrous nature
    Bedding must be made of fibrous material like cellulose in order to convert into carbon molecules after breaking down from energy conversion. 

Likewise, any Worm Bedding needs to qualify the above said quality to be a supple bedding choice. Sometimes, worms do eat their bedding, so it is precarious to use biological bedding. 

As such, Coco Coir Worm Bedding is one-among-many that benefits worms in multiple ways. 

Coco Coir is a fibrous material derived from coconut husk, is an all-natural, non-toxic, non-abrasive, cost-effective product that improves worms’ inhabitants. 

Coir is light- weighted, readily fluffed, has air pockets for easy air-water flow, enables free access for worm movement. 

It is a super absorbent(50-60% moisture) with high saturation, holding water(every 1lbs brick holds 6lbs of water) and nutrients effectively, keeping the worm bin moist-damp. Thus foul odor managed. 

It is a harmless choice that is non-toxic, chemical-free, inert to chemical reaction that supasses any other worm bedding available. 

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks

3 Factors of Horse Manure Management

Compost is basically a biological process that converts organic matter into fine particle humus. It involves a series of decomposition of microorganisms, digesting of organic matters. In this case, the organic matter is Horse Manure, Feeds and Beddings.  

Composting helps minimize the waste-maximise microbial activity, thus balancing the farm ecosystem, tending hygiene and ensuring horses’ health. 

On an average, every horse produces 30 lbs of feces and 2.5 gal. of urine along with spoiled bedding of about 10-12 lb is disposed every day. All up together, this accounts almost 50-65 lbs/day. 

The crisis of waste management starts with 5 important reasons that depicts the need for proper management of manure, popularly known as Horse Manure Management.

The main aim of Horse Manure Management is to keep each and every aspect of manure in check.

Originally, Horse Manure varies from horse to horse, feeds provided and type of bedding used, and is best if sorted early when manure produced is measured on weekly routine.  

These manures are the valuable and un-utilised resource that mobilise large amount of soil amendment and plant nourishing fertilizers.

Composting is one such method deployed in Horse Manure Management, and is feasible-affordable for every barn/farm owner. 

Composting enriches gardens, pastures by improving soil texture, aeration and water retention. Also, compost mix helps increase soil fertility, control erosion and balance pH. 

However, key features need to be ensured for proper composting and a good final product.

Temperature

Temperature is one of the most important indicator of how well your composting is taking place. The temperature is a fluctual result of airflow in and out of the manure pile. If the airflow is at optimal level, higher the temperature, greater the heat generated.

Try flipping your pile upside down, to distribute heat evenly throughout the massive pile. An even distribution of hot air will help suppress pathogens, fly larvae and weed seed/egg and accelerate the speed of decomposition. 

Although, a vigilant temperature needs to be maintained in order to carry out decomposition steady and swift. 

More generally, a lower temperature range of 50-110oF is required at initial stages of decomposition, later 110-160oF to break down organic matter, kill weeds, pathogens and increase microbial activity as they are hyper-thermal activists. Over a period of weeks or month, the temperature gradually drops to ambient temperature for the decomposition to settle down.

Either way, overheating immobilises many beneficial organisms or falling behind will hinder decomposition rate. 

Lower the surrounding temperature; lower will be the composting rate. At the times of Winter, it takes 3-6 month for a normal compost to happen while it only takes 1-2 months for a pile to turn compost during Summer. 

Note: Always keep piles upto 3-4 feets high and square base of 5-7 feets for building up a necessary temperature pressure within it. Get a Compost thermometer at local stores to get exact compost temperature every few days. 

Moisture content

Moisture Management is necessarily a priority task while composting. An apt moisture will bring a perfect compost mix else it leads to odor, slow decomposition, and hard to achieve high temperature. 

Either, the lack of moisture will cause composting organisms to dry out and prevent pile heat up. 

There are severe ways to make sure that your pile is having sufficient moisture or not. 

One, you can manually check by squeezing the pile of innermost layers and see through it. If it is damp enough to hold moisture or too wet that it dries out after squeezing leaving behind dry lump. Then make a precautionary moist supply. 

Two, cover your pile using a tarp sheet to prevent it from getting excessively wet in the rainy season or too dry in hot days of summer.  This will also help limit flies, weeds and sweeping nutrients off the pile.

Three, frequent watering will help balance water hold, as it evaporates due to heat and airflow. Try turning the pile either side to provide a significant amount of water to it. 

Also, you may select the right location for your pile build, making it more convenient for clean-carry out-use. A right place, which is high enough to drain excess water or pour additional water when required, thus moisture maintained. 

Pile composition

Often the compost quality depends upon Pile Composition. Pile material provides essential nutrients, and vital decomposing proportion for compost, it renders ‘Carbon for Energy and Nitrogen for Growth’. The microorganisms that are turned into compost are fueled by Carbon and Nitrogen. 

Nitrogen is mainly found in manure and Carbon is found in bedding material, their proper proportion ensures successful composting. An ideal C:N proportion is estimated between 25:1 to 30:1, where carbon is in larger numbers. 

More precisely, Carbon is primarily released by carbon-rich material like straw, wood chips, shavings, sawdust and leaves while animal-byproducts like manure and feeds are rich in Nitrogen. 

Avoid using more bedding into pile build-up, more the bedding (carbon); longer the time for compost completion. Alternatively, if you’re using Coco bedding for your horse, you can reduce carbon pile up in your compost and reduce decompose after effects. 

Note: Compost is combustible, keep the compost pile away from housing, avoid smoking near the compost pile. 

A finished compost will reduce to half its original size, smells good and be like a rich soil. 

CategoriesDairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle

5 Reasons for Horse Manure Management

Composting is a best way of manure and waste management to avoid potential threats to horse lives and deformation of manure piles. 

A slight mismanagement of manure pile will affect, 

  1. Horses which are gazing over its own manure be infected by worm seeds/eggs,
  2. Flies, pests and their odor plunges all around surround neighbourhood,
  3. The pile of horse and bedding waste is insightful and decrease barn captivity,
  4. If the manure were too soggy and ran down to the water source, it causes serious water quality issues, 
  5. Higher C:N ratio of manure pile will turn out good for none.

It is estimated that around 25 cubic yards of manure and bedding is being generated every year from each barn. It gives off stingy, foul odor and is doomed to bring a health crisis if not attended in time. 

It also contains harmful disease-causing pathogens, parasites that can easily pollute water systems, so it has to be off-limited within 50feets away from the drainage point, and treated tactfully and consistently. 

Manure pile

Composting plays as a best resolute for manure-waste management, and is believed to be ecologically friendly. The worth of composting strikes as it is, 

  1. The ideal material for creating quality compost for garden or pasture,
  2. Composting breaks down microbial bacteria and fungi into nourishment source,
  3. Compost manure decomposes into nutrient rich and odorless supplement,
  4. It is time, space and cost efficient to compost your manure at stall,
  5. It helps control temperature and odor of manure pile.

Basically, manure(feces, bedding, urine) consists of fertilizer nutrients like nitrogen(N), potassium(K2O) and phosphorus(P2O5) that are essential for plant growth.

A compost horse manure makes a rich source of nutrient as a soil amendment. It infuses micro and macronutrients that works as the time passes and also provides beneficial bacteria and fungi for soil nurture. Studies show that a manure compost makes the plant healthier and disease-resistant. 

In simple terms, composting takes place in Heating Phase and Curing Phases.

Compost pile

Heating phase comprises bacterial breakdown to generate heat of temperature about 130oF that lasts for a month together to sterilize the weed seeds and form primary plant fertiliser. 

Curing phase is held in lower temperature that burns fungal, worm residue in compost bin and takes upto 3-4 months after heat phase to take down nitrogen and other organic compounds under control (stable). Gardeners’ most refer to cured compost as it contains more fermented nitrogen and provides additional fertilizing result. 

After all these, the compost you prepared can be used personally or be sold in the market. Manure compost has quite a value in the sale !!

CategoriesCoir Products Lifestyle

Coir Products- An Ecological Aid

Coir Netting- As Soil Stabilizer

A highly durable, long lasting organic netting is the key requirement for any customers to opt for, where EcoNet Coir Netting is in the lead, that renders an optimal surface protection and longevity stay.

They are economical eco-friendly, 100% biodegradable, easy installable netting available.

Coco netting are fabricated by entwining of single or double yarns woven by looms into Coir Net, that are often woven along with straw mulch.

It is ranked among the reliable Erosion Control products, by pertaining

  •  Stability in the areas of high fluctuation like bank, slope, hill, wetlands while intercepting the run down water establishing a dense plantation.
  • Forms a wind and moisture barrier by enclosing large surfaces of high flow/ slow grow area, in inhibiting drying of top soil and seeds.
  • By adding the underlying Coir filter, it further provides robust surface protection.
  • Its strong, flexible, durable nature enabled vegetation reinforcement.
  • By an expanded life span (3-5 years) it equips slow nurture of vegetation.
  • Their phenomenal decaying yields in flourishing of top soil. 

Also will dissipate water currents, intakes excess of solar radiation, thus presenting as Soil-bioengineering tool. In ecological means, it helps lower the Carbon footprint in that area.

All put together, it is a tailor-made product to pique an interest in consumers.

Coir Log- For Soil Amendment 

A naturally extracted fibrous log is 100% environmental friendly and self-degradable.

The origin of coco logs is driven from an enclosure of intertwined braids of compact coconut coir (Coir Web) by an exterior coco mesh Netting.

Coco logs are favorable for geo bio-engineering purposes.

In Restoration Projects, coco logs are mainly deployed in the region of sloppy landscapes, in-touch areas with waves and water current (highly unstable) through establishing a new wetland plantation.

They form effective Construction Check points, in exhibiting superior tensile strength, high durability while retaining substrate and filtrating debris.

It is a strongly in-led, flexible log employed in various circumstances, depicted as

  •  Efficient in Erosion Controlling, as far as holding the soil intact, in the means of establishing dense plantations in lane by building up a wider contour.
  • While imparting an unparalleled support for surrounding vegetation by providing nourishment, creating microclimate for germination of seeds.
  • It is permeable to air and water making a beneficiary bone for aqua-terrestrial species as an easy survival.
  •  Also shielding the surrounding wild inhabitants against water-borne catastrophe.

Coco logs are tailor-made for their superior long lasting, about 2-5years, unhurried degrading nature, for facilitating vegetation growth as compost fertilizer.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Lifestyle Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks

Step by Step guide for Barn bedding

Here we depict a deliberate process on how to make bedding for your pretty horses step by step.

With this in mind, let us make a quick visit to a stall where bedding is made out of the owner’s preference as ground substrate cautionaries for equines.

One will always be spirited when one is making comfort for their beloved ones, if they are energetic, ever cheerful companions like Horses, then one will exhaust all his energy to get it best done. But here is the simplest, tactful and handful advice for all dedicated fellow horse lovers.  

Before we jump into the main topic let’s have a brief talk on maintaining the clean barn, the bedding laid within the clean barn will be more efficient.  Here are some right tools to make the job easier, and stall cleaning an exceptional good. 

  • Apple picker
  • Shavel
  • Broom
  • Absorbent Deodorizer
  • Sprinkle can
  • Muck Bucket or wheelbarrow

For one to be precise, stall cleaning  is much of saving time, money and  energy of caretakers’ , prioritising hygiene at most. Also lessening bedding consume.

Live threats are also resolved when maintaining stall hygiene diligently. 

Simple cleaning process

  • Toss clean, unsoiled bedding against the walls and into back corners.
  • Toss manure and dirty, wet bedding into the center of the stall or directly into a muck bucket or wheelbarrow.
  • Rake out center of the stall.
  • Sweep the center of the stall thoroughly and pick up any remaining dirty material with a shovel.
  • Sprinkle absorbent deodorizer on any wet spots.
  • Leave the empty stall to air dry with bedding pushed back as long as possible until you prepare new bedding. 

Swift and Tactful bedding process

Based on the layout of the stall, the bedding backpacks are brought into the stall. Most often one using rubber mat as rigid grounding of 3.6mm(12’) x 1.8mm(6’) bed size requires 3-5 bags per yard.

  • Put the bag packs in 2 cross lines, and fold the end hinge inboard to avoid further trouble of out flow.
  • Pouring cold water, it may take an hour to absorb for it to fluff all up. Else the warm water will do in 20mins.
  • Invert the bag upside down, break with force and crumble all.
  • Spread out up to the layer 5inches, the volume of spreading on your wish, as horses like fluffy to their feet.

It’s preferred to take inhabitants out for a walk while clean and bedding since it provides them with fresh air and sets one’s mind at peace.

CategoriesDairy Farm Lifestyle Tips & Tricks

Top 4 Tips to improve Barn Hygiene

When it comes to dealing with the health and comfort of your barn living, you’ll always want to make the best of your job possible. That’s right, regardless of what lives in your barn, it is necessary to keep up with hygienic standards to stay clean and healthy. In fact, if a barn is unkempt, bacteria and viruses can be spread, resulting in sickening your dear animals.

Barns is a shelter provided for livestock such as cattle, horses and many other animals. As a Barn handler or frequent visitors, you are well aware of after effects of detrimental unhygienic culture. Those without proper care and regular tending are more prone to get sick and eventually leading to loss of life. A clean and tidy environment is the key source for robust life. So as to say, here are some of the highly recommended tips for your barners’ well-being.

Clean barn

The first and foremost thing in controlling disease break out is cleaning. Clean means free of dirt and organic matter such as manure. This means the removal of all manure and feed, followed by washing, scrubbing and rinsing, or pressure washing, all surfaces with hot water and detergent. Studies have shown that over 90% of bacteria are removed from surfaces that are thoroughly cleaned first. Thorough cleaning will remove most of the contamination and allow disinfectants to penetrate surfaces and kill microorganisms. This is followed by the use of a disinfectant according to label directions (included in the Compendium of Veterinary Products, available in your veterinarian’s office).

Disinfectant

A disinfectant is a chemical or substance that kills microorganisms and is applied to objects.  Follow the label directions before using, the “Active Ingredients” section on the container of disinfectant will identify the type of product. The product label will often state a dilution rate when being used either as a germicidal cleaner (killing microorganisms) or as a sanitizer (reducing the number of microorganisms). The minimum contact time (mentioned in label) is the time required to kill microorganisms. The kill time (10-15minutes) is affected by the presence of organic matter like bedding blood and pus, temperature, pH, hardness of water and concentration of disinfectant. So be sure of cleaning up before using disinfectants.

             It’s important not to simply focus on disinfecting surfaces in barns and barn areas (walls, doors, paddocks, fences, and gates) to curb disease spread; be sure to address hand tools and other farm equipment, vehicles, and trailers, too. Before you get started, relocate animals from the area you’re about to clean and disinfect. You might also need to remove all bedding. 

Make sure the area where you are working has adequate ventilation and turn off the power supply before soaking walls with water. Many disinfectants can be extremely irritating to human skin, eyes, and respiratory tracts. Always wear protective clothing, eye protection, and gloves when using any disinfectant product.

***Never mix different disinfectants together. Every approved disinfectant in the United States has a safety data sheet, available from the manufacturer and contains valuable information.

Personal Hygiene

The means of preventing the disease to spread by individual self-care is often termed as Personal Hygiene. Possibly barn handlers can be a reservoir or source of the disease agent while moving around from one barn to another; by carrying the agent on their clothing and shoes or animals themselves. The “shower in and shower out” followed in swine and poultry industries shows some pretty results.

In care, handlers should be dedicated with boots and clothing only used for the barn. If that is not possible, boots should be cleaned prior to entering the premises and freshly laundered clothing should be worn. A freshly laundered pair of coveralls would also suffice. Handlers should learn not to wear the same outfit outside anywhere, as there is the potential for them to carry the problem back.

Hand Washing

Hand washing should be facilitated around the barn/farm to encourage the frequent washing of hands. Research has shown that, as the access to a hand-washing facility increased, the hand-washing compliance increased (1). Thorough hand washing with soap is adequate in most cases. Antiseptic soaps (e.g., chlorhexidine) or iodophor shampoo/washes (e.g., Betadine scrub) or alcohol based hand gel may also be used and should be located at the sink in an easy dispensing container.

         Dispensers can be preferably attached to handlers’ belts or outside the doorway for easy access and frequent use before working for another barn, as they only require 15 seconds to dry. Hand washing is also important to prevent chemical contamination of the workplace when feeding medicines.

* Choose a product that doesn’t dry out the skin or cause skin irritation.In this stressful pandemic situation caused by Coronavirus, it’s always better to have knowledge at your tips to make the lives around much safer and healthier. It’s always that prevention is better than cure, take in interest towards a healthy living and strive through it.