CategoriesLifestyle Pet Turtle Caring Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Box Turtle

Appearance

The box turtle has a tiny head and a hooked upper jaw, making it an intriguing pet with a distinct personality. Depending on the species or subspecies, their colour varies. Some have a lemon-yellow or olive-yellow head, and their shells range in colour from brown to olive-brown to black. Some have a large dark patch on their underside as well as black triangular markings with a brown or olive triangle behind the eye.

Their spines may be red or light brown in colour, or they may have three longitudinal stripes. By the time they reach the age of 15, box turtles should have reached the end of their growth cycle. Adults are around five inches tall and weigh 400 grammes on average. Box turtles live for 30 to 50 years on average, but some have lived up to 100 years!

Behaviour

Box turtles are not intended as pets for young children or inexperienced pet owners. This is owing to their extensive care requirements and vulnerability to stress, both of which can negatively impact a turtle’s health. You can expect to spend at least a week cleaning and maintaining their enclosure, as well as feeding them every day or two.

Box turtles prefer to remain in a consistent environment and avoid being touched by humans. They don’t usually bite, however nervousness caused by overhandling can cause them to nip someone. Furthermore, they can contain salmonella, so wash your hands carefully after handling your turtle or anything in its habitat. Most box turtles will remember their keepers once they’ve become accustomed to their surroundings, even following a person’s motions from inside their cage or asking for food.

Temperature Requirements

Daytime temperatures for common box turtles should be at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature might dip between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. To assist manage the temperature, use a basking lamp, ceramic heat emitters, or other heat sources.

For box turtles to digest the calcium in their meals, UVB illumination is required. They may get metabolic bone disease and possibly die if they don’t get it. 2 Box turtles require around 12 hours of UVB illumination each day, which may be obtained from natural sunshine or a UVB lamp. To simulate a natural day-night cycle indoors, turn off the lamp at night.

Humidity

A humidity level of approximately 60% is ideal for box turtles. This may be achieved by misting on a regular basis and utilising a substrate that maintains moisture.

Housing

A wooden vivarium is required for a typical box turtle’s enclosure. This is because wood is a great heat insulator, thus a wooden vivarium will make it simpler to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. The wooden vivarium should be well ventilated to allow for enough air flow in and out of the enclosure, as well as sealed to keep moisture and humidity out.

For a juvenile, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long, and for an adult, 1150mm (46″) long. The cage must be heated at one end and cold at the other, with enough space between them for the temperature to decrease.

Diet 

Vegetation, turtle food, live feeder insects, and flesh make up a box turtle’s diet. Dropping crickets or locusts into the pool for the live food component because they are both healthy and simple to digest. Snails and worms are common additions to the meat component of the diet.

Dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette, and bell peppers are all suitable for the vegetation component of the diet. Leafy greens should make up the majority of the vegetation. Supplements can be dusted on the salad, but we wouldn’t dust the turtle food, meat, or live food since we don’t want to contaminate the turtle’s pool water.

Handling

It is critical for both you and your turtle to maintain excellent cleanliness. So, before you start touching anything, wash your hands.

  • Before you decide to handle them, make sure they aren’t resting or feeding, and consider whether or not they are in the mating season.
  • Pick up your turtle with both hands from both sides of its shell.
  • Don’t squeeze your turtle, but make sure it doesn’t squirm out of your hands while it’s flying.
  • Picking up your turtle by the limbs or turning it fast is not a good idea.
  • Even though turtles are gentle, they do best when handled just for examinations and cleaning.

Substrate Nature

The substance that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s habitat is called substrate. It aids in humidity retention and satisfies the turtle’s need to burrow. Furthermore, it can give the enclosure a more natural appearance and feel. As a result, try to choose a substrate that closely resembles the turtle’s native habitat. Chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss are popular among gardeners. Wood chips help your turtle to burrow, so make sure you layer it at least 4 inches deep. It is not recommended to utilise soil or gravel since they might induce intestinal obstruction if consumed.The best choice of substrate is Coconut Husk. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell

Gravel

Gravel is one of the simplest and most cheap turtle tank substrate alternatives. It comes in a variety of hues. It’s simple to use, turtle-safe, and won’t alter the pH or chemistry of your tank’s water.

Advantages:

  • Colored natural materials with a non-toxic finishing
  • Turtles can tolerate a fine texture.
  • The pH or chemistry of tank water will not be affected.

Disadvantages:

  • Rough edges may be seen on certain stones.
  • Blue substrates may not appear as natural as other colours.

Conclusion

Box turtles have extremely particular needs that necessitate a rigorous husbandry routine. After a few weeks, though, this maintenance becomes very easy for first-time owners. Many turtle owners establish a lifelong relationship with their pets since they are docile and cheap.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Aquatic Turtle

Turtles, both aquatic and semi-aquatic, are popular as pets. Turtles are interesting pets to have, but they are delicate animals, so learning how to care for one before acquiring one is essential. For survival, you need make space, light, hydration, and food. Understanding these areas of turtle care can ensure that your turtle has a long and happy life.

Most popular species of Aquatic turtle

Red-Eared Slider Turtle

Red-eared slider turtles are native to North America and make excellent pets. They have appealing yellow and green patterns on their bodies, as well as prominent red patches behind their eyes. They are also frequently social with their owners. When it comes to their upkeep, though, they are a significant undertaking. Those lovely tiny turtle hatchlings for sale will develop into huge, long-lived, and a bit untidy aquatic turtles. Prepare for the amount of room and cleaning they will require.

Yellow-Bellied Slider Turtle

Yellow-bellied sliders, one of the most popular pet turtles, are long-lived aquatic turtles that can live up to 40 years in captivity. Although these turtles spend the most of their time in the water, unlike amphibians, they require the ability to dry off and relax. This species of turtle is relatively easy to care for in terms of turtles. Aquatic turtles, in general, need a lot of tank upkeep. As adults, these turtles, which are closely related to red-eared sliders, will require a large aquarium. The brown or black shells with yellow stripes differentiate these popular pets. Their lower shell, or underside, is yellow with black dots, therefore the name.

Painted Turtles

Painted turtles are called from the elaborate shell patterns on their shells, although they are also known as Chrysemys picta. Males are smaller than females, and the average painted turtle develops to be between four and twelve inches long. 1 Painted turtles can live up to 50 years in the wild and can be found in ponds and small lakes, where they congregate on logs to sun themselves and dry off. They will hibernate in the winter.

Mud Turtle

Eastern mud turtles are aquatic turtles that are tiny and compact and are native to ponds in the Eastern United States from Texas to New York. They are popular as pets primarily due to their small size, seldom growing to be more than five inches long. Their needs are comparable to those of other aquatic turtles, although they are semi-terrestrial, unlike some of their cousins. Rather than seeking to soak up the sun, they spend much of their time wandering, covered beneath leaves, or resting on the bottoms of small ponds. Mud turtles are probably not a suitable pet for a smaller child, even if they are well-suited for older children who can properly care for them.

Diamondback Terrapin

Diamondback terrapins are named from the diamond-shaped pattern on its dorsal shell. Terrapin means tiny turtle. One of the most stunning turtles endemic to the United States. Diamondback terrapins are typically gentle turtles who are happy to be handled, however they may nip if threatened. They vary from other common pet aquatic turtles such as painted turtles and red-eared sliders in that they live in brackish (salty) water rather than pure freshwater.

Choosing Your Aquatic Turtle

Turtles make lovely, intriguing, and delightful pets for the appropriate person with the correct dedication. The first step in excellent aquatic turtle ownership is to learn about the different species and how to care for them. While the fundamentals of aquatic turtle care are the same for all species, prospective owners should read up on the specifics of housing and food for the type they choose before making a purchase.

The hardier aquatic turtle species, such as red-eared sliders, cooters, mud, and musk turtles, are suggested for novices. Keep in mind that sliders and cooters may grow to be over 12 inches long at maturity, although mud and musk turtles are roughly half that size. Some of the less popular species, such as map and painted turtles, are less resilient as pets. Softshell and snapping turtles have a reputation for being big, aggressive, and more difficult to care for, making them unsuitable for beginners.

Behaviour

Aquatic turtles do not require much maintenance aside from a suitable environment and nutrition, however regular engagement may result in a docile and social turtle. Depending on the species and under perfect conditions, they will reach adult size in 1 to 2 years; increase the size of the habitat as your turtle develops. In any event, they’re gorgeous, and with careful care, they should last for many years.

Large tanks, specific lighting, adequate filtration, and frequent cleaning are required for aquatic turtles. During the day, they are most active. Allow yourself to be exposed to the sun during the warmest portion of the day to assist digestion, immunity, and regular development. By roaming between warm and cool regions of the cage, they control their internal body temperature. In most cases, aquatic turtles prefer to feed while still in the water. Turtles dislike being handled frequently and may bite if startled.

Temperature Requirements

A basking lamp and a submersible heater serve as major heat sources for a temperature gradient of 95°F for the warm end/basking area and 75°F for the cool end/water. UVB rays and full spectrum illumination are necessary for 10 to 12 hours each day. For basking regions, incandescent illumination is required. Temperature changes take a long time for turtles to acclimatise to. If you want to play with him outside of his tank, make sure the room is close to the same temperature as the tank. Sudden changes will put him under stress, and his immune system may suffer as a result.

Housing

Aquatic turtles necessitate a lot of space. Turtles require frequent exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, thus all turtle tanks should have specific light bulbs intended for reptiles that generate both UVA and UVB radiation. They can get soft shell syndrome, a metabolic bone condition, if they don’t get enough light. Aquatic turtles are extremely filthy, so their tanks require frequent cleanings and, most importantly, a decent filtration system to ensure proper water quality. They should have adequate water to swim in, as well as a spot to get out of the water and relax under a heat lamp. At all times, appropriate water and ambient temperatures should be maintained.

Diet and Feeding

Although aquatic turtle diets have improved over time, they are not suggested as a sole source of nutrition. Most aquatic turtles are omnivores, however their preferences for certain foods may alter over time, and the best approach to feed them is to provide a range of foods. Aquatic turtles enjoy leafy vegetables like romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, and parsley (fresh, not dried). Because your turtle spends the most of its time immersed in water, the ideal approach to feed greens to your turtle is to either place the food directly in the water or use a suction cup clip to keep the food in the tank but not float in the water.

Chopped apples and frozen shrimp can be given to an aquatic turtle as a treat, but they are not recommended for daily consumption. Although certain water turtle species eat insects, vegetation should make up the majority of their diet. Because turtles are messy eaters, it’s best to feed them in a container separate from their home tank. This keeps the mess to a minimum. When many turtles live together, it also helps owners to keep track of each turtle’s food intake.

Habitat Maintenance

Keep the habitat clean by removing any uneaten food or excrement as soon as possible. At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat. Place the turtle in a safe environment and use a 3 percent bleach solution to clean the tank and furnishings. Rinse carefully with water to remove any lingering bleach odour. Before reintroducing the turtle, provide clean, dechlorinated water with a temperature range of 70 to 75°F.

Substrate Nature

For aquatic turtles, substrate is advised to reduce the danger of pressure sores on the bottoms of their feet. Your turtle’s health depends on having access to clean water. Even though the water looks to be clean, it may contain a significant amount of nitrogenous waste from excrement. Clean water is ensured by frequent complete water changes. The more frequent the water changes, the lower the volume of water. A 4-inch turtle in a 10-gallon tank should be changed 2-3 times each week. The water in a 50-gallon aquarium is usually changed once a week. The more turtles in the cage, the more water changes are required. If the turtles are fed in the cage, the water should be changed every 12 hours. When doing a full water change, clean and rinse the cage well to eliminate any remaining bacterial development on all surfaces. Because sudden changes in water temperature might be dangerous, be sure that the water temperature after cleaning is equal to what it was before.

Common health problems

  • GI tract parasites: Poor appetite, listlessness, perhaps diarrhoea, and anal prolapse are all symptoms of parasites in the gastrointestinal tract. As soon as possible, consult your veterinarian.
  • Respiratory infection: A cold environment can induce a respiratory illness, which includes open mouth breathing, eye, nose, and/or mouth secretion, and sneezing. Consult your veterinarian and make sure the environment is at the proper temperature.
  • Ulcers/shell rot: An dirty environment or an inappropriate food can create discoloured or foul-smelling patches or pits on the shell, which can become diseased. Consult your veterinarian and make sure you’re getting daily cleanings and/or changing your diet.
  • Eye or respiratory infection: A vitamin A deficit may produce swollen eyes and sides of the head. Consult your veterinarian and take a multivitamin.

Conclusion

Aquatic turtles are friendly and popular pets, but they require a lot of care. These creatures are tidy, quiet, and very simple to look after. Children should avoid aquatic turtles as pets.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Tortoise

Introduction

Tortoises are interesting animals that have been known to outlast their owners when properly cared for. Tortoises are, in reality, among the world’s oldest creatures!

Tortoises, on the other hand, do not live long if they are not properly cared for. Many individuals purchase tortoises without completely comprehending their care requirements, and as a result, they inadvertently decrease their lives. Here’s what you need to know if you just got a new tortoise or are thinking about acquiring one.

Are Tortoises Good Pets?

Tortoises are excellent pets…if you know what you’ve been doing!

Your tortoise may approach you for food or scratching once they feel secure and familiar with you as tortoises can feel touch on their shell! However, because they are normally reclusive and do not seek for human or tortoise company, don’t anticipate a particularly cuddly pet. However, you’re more likely to see your tortoise during the day, especially if the weather is warm and bright.

Outside of fresh water and food, tortoises don’t require much in the way of daily maintenance. You’ll probably spend more time adjusting your tortoise’s diet to meet their nutritional demands and dietary preferences than you will actually caring for them. Your tortoise may require daily enclosure cleaning depending on the layout of your cage. It’s unlikely that your tortoise would require daily cleaning if they have a big outside cage.

Interesting facts about tortoise

  • Tortoises may reach a length of 10 inches.
  • They are vegetarians.
  • They live on land and are not swimmers like turtles.
  • They’re a cold-blooded species.
  • They have a life expectancy of more than 50 years.

Lighting and Heating

Your tortoise will require UV-ray-producing lights in indoor cages. This aids in the creation of vitamin D, which in turn leads to the manufacture of calcium. They also require a heat light to regulate their body temperature in a warm environment. You should have a light and a heat lamp, not just one bulb that can do both duties. The habitat should provide UV lighting in the bulk of the enclosure, but the heat should be concentrated in one area so that your tortoise may go in and out as needed.

Housing

Your tortoise’s enclosure should be as natural as possible. Adapt the enclosure to your tortoise’s species. Red-footed and Yellow-footed tortoises enjoy a tropical, humid climate, but Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Russian tortoises prefer a warm, dry environment. Overly wet conditions encourage fungal development, which is harmful to tortoises’ health. Provide access to shallow water for soaking and drinking for all tortoises. You can use Coconut Husk as bedding.

The enclosure’s ideal temperature range is 70-90°F (21-32°C). To enable body temperature control, a basking area and shade are required. At the cool end of the enclosure, place a shelter or hide-box. When you’re near your turtle, keep an eye on any other pets. In the winter, Russian and Greek tortoises may hibernate. Hibernation should only be done on healthy tortoises. Other sources of information about hibernation should be consulted. Tortoises such as the Leopard, Sulcata, Red-footed, and Yellow-footed do not hibernate. Indoor tortoises require at least 5% UVA/UVB light. UV output will diminish long before the light bulb burns out, thus light bulbs should be replaced every 6-9 months. Male tortoises may be aggressive and territorial when it comes to other male tortoises.

Diet

Tortoises are omnivores that require a diversified diet of fruits, vegetables, and good tortoise chow. Small quantities of animal protein can be provided. Sulcata and Leopard tortoises eat grass hay, leafy greens, vegetables, and tortoise chow, which are high in fibre. Fruit is offered sparingly or not at all, and there is no animal protein.

Leafy greens, grass hay, and vegetables should be offered to tortoises on a high-fiber, low-protein diet. Fruits are provided in little amounts or not at all. Tortoise chow can be added to the diet of Russian tortoises, but it should be limited or not provided at all to Greek tortoises. Tortoises in general appear to appreciate vividly coloured fruits and vegetables, as well as a varied diet. The nicest greens are dark and leafy: romaine lettuce, kale, collards, dandelion, mustard greens, and dandelion.

Several times a week, some specialists advocate dusting the feed with a veterinarian powdered calcium supplement. The tortoise may require more calcium than other tortoises, and some experts advocate giving them free-choice cuttlebone. Fresh food and water should be provided on a daily basis. Every other day, adult tortoises can be fed. It’s possible that they’ll be territorial and try to keep other turtles away from their food.

Handling and caring

Your tortoise is unlikely to like being carried about, so only do so when absolutely necessary. Scratches and petting, especially at feeding time, will aid in the development of trust.

The most crucial element of shell maintenance is ensuring that the diet has enough calcium. However, because shells are a component of your tortoise’s skeletal system, you should inspect it for cracks and other ailments. A veterinarian should examine any shell damage. If you have any questions or worries regarding the health of your box turtle, see a veterinarian who has expertise with exotic pets. Every 6 to 12 months, have a routine physical examination. Examination of the faeces for parasites on an annual basis. Your veterinarian may prescribe blood testing.

Substrate Nature

Your tortoise’s substrate should be absorbent so that it does not end up standing in waste. All of these materials are acceptable including coco coir, peat, and soil. If you want a chunkier substrate, reptile substrate bark and mulch, as well as coconut husk pieces, are also acceptable options. Your turtle requires green spaces in outdoor cages and will likely like dirty places as well. Make sure that any grass or weeds growing in the area will not harm your turtle if it consumes them.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell
CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Blue-tongued Skinks

Introduction

Blue-tongued skinks can be found in Australia’s warm forests and grasslands in their native habitat. The northern and eastern blue-tongued skinks are the most widely maintained of many closely related species known as blue-tongued skinks. Frequently seen lying in ambush on any passing arthropod, sleeping in a burrow, or moving over thick grass and woodland floors. The native habitat of the blue-tongued skink is often compacted sandy soil with scrubland vegetation.

Appearance and behaviour

Blue-tongued skinks are wonderful for beginners since they have a lot of personality and a friendly demeanour. Breeding blue-tongued skinks can be difficult, and some blue-tongue species and locations are exceedingly rare.

The bodies of blue tongue skinks are thick and sausage-like, with short but powerful limbs and triangular heads. But it’s their nickname, a blue tongue, that makes them stand out. The scales of this big, heavy-bodied skink are ridged or “keeled,” with black crossbands. On the sides, pink to orange coloration is frequent. They can reach a length of 24” and have a lifetime of 15-20 years, however with proper care, they may live to be 30 years old.

Temperature Requirements

Temperatures in blue-tongued skink enclosures should be kept cool, between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking region of 90 to 100 degrees should be included in the warm end. An under-tank heating device, such as a heat pad or heat tape, and/or an overhead incandescent basking light or heat emitter can be used to do this. The overhead heating equipment should be switched off at night if both under-tank and overhead heat are offered. Daylight bulbs should be turned on for no more than 12 hours each day. At night, the temperature in the colder part of the enclosure might drop to 70 degrees.

Despite the fact that blue-tongued skinks have been successfully reared without full-spectrum illumination, You can use UVB lighting in blue-tongued skink enclosures. UVB lamps should be turned on for eight to twelve hours each day. UVA is helpful to blue-tongued skinks and is produced by any UVB bulb.

Humidity

To measure the humidity at the chilly end of the cage, a hygrometer should be acquired. Blue-tongue skinks come from a variety of locations, each with its own unique humidity. Humidity levels should be specified according to your species and location. By spraying the enclosure with clean water, you may increase humidity. The vivarium will require additional ventilation if it is too high.

The following are the several species of Blue tongue skinks and their humidity requirements:

  • Northern blue tongue skink — 40-60%
  • Classic Indonesian blue tongue skink — 60-80%
  • Halmahera blue tongue skink — 80-100%
  • Merauke blue tongue skink — 60-80%
  • Irian Jaya blue tongue skink — 60-80%

Diet

Blue-tongued skinks are omnivorous, which means they eat a wide variety of plants and insects. Though they may attempt to eat fruit, this might cause stomach distress and is not a necessary component of the skink’s diet, avoid it. Similarly, there are vegetables and other live foods that may be fed to skinks, but they are not very nutritious and should not be included in the skink’s regular diet.

Pinkie Mouse

Brown crickets provide the meat component of this omnivorous diet. They are highly nutritious, relatively easy to hunt for skinks, readily accessible, and excellent value for money. If your skink won’t eat them, black bugs and locust are excellent substitutes. You can provide a pinkie frozen thawed mouse, a part of an omnivorous diet, or a pack of protein dense livefood like snails or worms once a week because these lizards require a lot of protein. 

Cockroaches

Waxworms, calciworms, cockroaches, mealworms, and beetle grubs can all be fed on occasion. Because grubs and waxworms are extremely fattening, only serve them once a week. Because mealworms, morio worms, and cockroaches are tough to digest, only feed them to mature skinks if 18 months and up once or twice a week.

Housing

Although blue tongue skinks are huge, fast-growing lizards, the minimum enclosure size, even for a baby, is 4’x2’x2′, or 8 square feet of floor area. Because blue tongue skinks are extremely active, it’s good that you get a larger enclosure if you can afford it. PVC, which is waterproof and lightweight, is the best material for a blue tongue skink enclosure, although glass or well-sealed wood are also viable alternatives. In each cage, just one blue tongue skink should be kept. Housing blue tongue skinks together is likely to stress them out, and there’s a chance they’ll fight and hurt themselves.

Cleaning

To flourish, blue-tongued skinks, like other pets, require a clean habitat. Spot clean every day if feasible, and do a complete clean every 4 weeks or so. You can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure if you maintain the skink in a bio-active cage. Changing the bedding a few times a year may still be a wise decision.

You should take your animal and all of the bedding out of the enclosure before cleaning it. After the enclosure is clean, disinfect it using a reptile-friendly disinfectant. These generally operate quickly and just require around 30 seconds of your time. After the disinfectant has done its job, wipe the surfaces clean with a paper towel.

This procedure is carried out throughout the day so that the skink can return to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lights are switched off for the night.

Handling

When you first bring your blue tongue skink home, avoid the want to play with it right away. You’re enormous in comparison to a blue tongue skink, and it’ll take some time for him or her to realise you’re not going to devour them. Allow at least two weeks for your new pet to settle in before beginning to handle it. You can introduce yourself once your skink has gained confidence in his or her new home. Place an old, worn shirt in the terrarium to let them get acclimated to your fragrance. Allow the skink to become acquainted with your hand by allowing it to relax in the terrarium.

Handling Techniques

  • The entire body should be supported.
  • Slow down your motions.
  • Unless absolutely essential, do not grasp or restrict someone.
  • Leave them alone if they’re shedding, and don’t tug on loose skin.

Substrate Nature

As burrowing lizards, blue tongue skinks require 4-6 inches of deep, soft, loose ground. Coconut husk, Aspen, recycled paper, and cypress mulch may all be used safely with blue-tongued skinks as provided as they are kept dry. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding which is absolutely cosy for your reptile. Cedar chips, clay cat litter, orchid bark, and walnut shells should never be used as substrates since they can cause toxicity, impaction, and breathing problems.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

·   Very natural look

·   Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

·   Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

·       May attract mites and bugs over time

Cypress Mulch

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for reptiles. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

• Retain moisture

• It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

• Costly

• Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Aspen Bedding

Aspen shaving is not too expensive and it is made up of wood which is chemical free. You can completely replace it by paying cheaply. It absorbs and prevents the odors from waste. The substrate is free of chemicals or toxic oils and is perfectly safe for pets.

Advantages:

·       It is affordable

·       Excellent absorbing and clean-up

Disadvantages:

·       May need to be changed more often

Paper towels or newspaper

Paper towels and newspapers are absorbent but do nothing for odor control. Owners like the availability, cost, ease of clean-ups, and lack of possible ingestion. It is obviously very unnatural for any reptile but otherwise presents no large problems.

Advantages:

·   Affordable.

·   Easy to replace.

·   Odor-free, Dust-free.

Disadvantages:

·       Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Conclusion

The friendly and curious nature of blue-tongued skinks will continually delight and amaze their owners. The unusual and clever blue-tongued skink may well be the perfect pet lizard for reptile lovers of all levels!

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Leaf-tailed Gecko

Reptile caring is one such rarely seen habit that intrigues one fondness. For a person to raise them in full conscience, needs much thought as their possible raising is not as simple as it appears, read more for a complete guide on each pet to raise them more thoughfully.

Once you have decided on a Leaf-tailed Gecko as a pet, you will want to have everything prepared before bringing him home. Your pet needs a proper house and environment that is both safe and large enough for them. He will also need all the foods that will give him a nutritious diet. This care sheet helps you learn how to take proper care for your Leaf-tailed Gecko.

Appearance and Behaviour

Leaf-tailed geckos are a nocturnal, arboreal group of more than 18 species native to Madagascar. Their preferred habitat is tropical forest, and depending on the species, they can be found in bushes as well as high in the trees.

Depending on the species, leaf-tailed geckos can be as little as 3” and as large as 13”. Despite the fact that colour and pattern differ from one species to the next, they all feature stunningly realistic camouflage. Some are bark/lichen imitators, some are dead leaf imitators, and one is a bamboo imitator!

Leaf-tailed geckos are advanced-level pet reptiles because they are sensitive to bad husbandry, get upset easily, and require a naturalistic cage to survive. They can survive for up to 15 years if properly cared for.

Best temperature for leaf-tailed geckos

A low basking temperature of 80-84°F is recommended for leaf-tailed geckos, as measured using a digital probe thermometer positioned in the basking area. The temperature in the rest of the cage should be between 68 and 76 degrees Fahrenheit, with nighttime temperatures as low as 62 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat stress is particularly common with leaf-tailed geckos, so make sure yours always has a way to cool off!

Use a low-wattage incandescent lamp to keep your gecko warm. Experts consider white heat lamps to be the finest way to mimic the warmth of sunshine indoors and a superior kind of reptile heating. Ceramic heat emitters, red bulbs, and blue bulbs are not as effective as incandescent bulbs. It is not necessary to heat the room at night.

Best humidity levels for leaf-tailed geckos

Since leaf-tailed geckos are tropical animals, their enclosure should have a high level of humidity: 60-80% on average. If you’re maintaining Uroplatus phantasticus, however, higher amounts of 90-100 percent will be required at night to keep them properly hydrated. Humidity should be measured using a digital probe hygrometer, which should be placed in the terrarium’s centre.

Mist your gecko’s enclosure with a spray bottle 1-2 times per day to increase humidity. Mist every evening, then again in the morning if necessary. Aside from increasing humidity, this also provides a crucial supply of drinking water for your gecko! Use a cool-mist humidifier with a hygrostat if you’re having difficulties maintaining proper humidity levels.

What to feed to a leaf-tailed gecko

Roaches

Leaf-tails require a diverse diet to survive. Provide a wide range of live reptile food, such as roaches, crickets, super worms, and wax worms. To prevent worms from burrowing into the substrate, place them on a plate or jar lid. Consider breeding female pinkish mice during the breeding season.

How to handle your leaf-tailed gecko

In general, reptiles do not love stroking and handling as much as dogs and cats do. Leaf-tailed geckos are one of the reptiles that should be left alone rather than handled on a regular basis. Try hand-feeding your pet with a pair of feeding tweezers if you wish to interact with it.

Best substrate for leaf-tailed geckos

Placing a layer of realistic substrate will aid in maintaining proper humidity levels and give a natural cushion for them when diving for insects. It also improves the aesthetics of your enclosure! Humidity can also be improved by layering clean, chemical-free leaf litter on top of the substrate. Soil and Orchid bark can be used. Coconut fiber is one of the best options for your reptile. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding, which is an absolutely organic and chemical free bedding option.

Every 3-4 months, the substrate should be entirely updated and should be at least 2” deep. Poop and urates, as well as polluted substrate, should be removed on a daily basis.

Substrate Types

Coconut Fiber

For Leaf-tailed geckos, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a wise option. Coconut is one of the most durable substrates known. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a bit easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antibacterial properties as well. It will capture and even inhibit bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.

Advantages:

•       Very natural look

•       Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•       Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

•       May attract mites and bugs over time

Soil Mixture

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Advantages:

·   Create a natural look.

·   Reptiles like to borrow it.

Disadvantages:

·   May create skin infection.

Orchid Bark

Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.

Advantages:

·   It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.

·   Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.

·   Increases water retention.

·           It’s sustainably sourced.

Disadvantages:

·   It will eventually break down.

·   It has an acidifying effect

Fun Facts

  • Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, lack eyelids. Instead, they wipe and moisturise their eyes with their tongues.
  • Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, can walk up vertical surfaces thanks to millions of minute “hairs” called setae on their toe pads. Uroplatus has little claws to help them navigate about when setae fail, allowing them to hang to branches upside down to get the best angle on a potential bug feast.
  • Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, lack eyelids. Instead, they wipe and moisturise their eyes with their tongues.
  • Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, can walk up vertical surfaces thanks to millions of minute “hairs” called setae on their toe pads. Uroplatus has little claws to help them navigate about when setae fail, allowing them to hang to branches upside down to get the best angle on a potential bug feast.
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Tegus Lizards

Appearance

Tegus are a Central and South American species. The lifespan and adult size of different species varies, and many can grow to be extremely huge. Tegus comes in a variety of species and subspecies. Depending on species it comes in a variety of colors. Tegus can be difficult to manage, but with consistent human involvement, they can be domesticated and form bonds with their handlers. Domesticated Tegus are clever giant reptiles that humans love to keep as pets, according to some. It can reach a height of 40 inches and has a lifespan of 15 years or more. The average length of a hatchling tegu is 7 to 10 inches. A young tegus grows quickly, up to an inch every month. For a period, a 40-gallon breeder tank or a reptile cage measuring 36 by 18 by 17 inches would be needed for this species.

Behaviour

These single reptiles are nocturnal, meaning they are most active during the day. They alternate between lounging in the sun and foraging for food to keep their body temperature in check. They enter a hibernation-like state known as brumation throughout the winter months. When the temperature falls below a particular level, brumation occurs. They are highly active creatures during the rest of the year.

Temperature Requirements

Inside the enclosure, a temperature gradient with a warm and cold side should be created. This permits the tegu to change its location and hence adjust its temperature. On the warm side of the enclosure, create a 90-95°F daytime focus basking area. On the cooler side of the enclosure, daytime temperatures should be 75-85°F. To ensure that proper temperatures are maintained, use numerous digital thermometers with probes. Thermometers with dials are frequently inaccurate. Keep a temperature range of 75-85°F throughout the enclosure at night. A safe under-tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can be used to help maintain recommended temperatures if necessary. When using heating pads, always use proper rheostats/thermostats to avoid burn damage.

Lighting

For around 12 hours a day, shine an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light within 18 inches of the basking region, with no glass or acrylic in between. UVB is required for the creation of vitamin D and the proper absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal tract. UVB production declines with time, therefore this bulb should be replaced every 6 months.

Humidity

Tegus require a 70% to 80% humid environment. Fill a dish or container large enough to fit your pet’s full body. You can sprinkle water from a spray bottle once or twice daily to keep the enclosure moist, providing a higher humidity micro-environment for your pet. Keep an eye on the substrate for mould and waste, and replace it fully every 2 weeks, or more frequently if necessary.

Housing 

Tegus enclosures must have adequate space for the lizard to turn, move, and run about freely, as well as climbing and perching accessories. Finally, the substrate must let them dig/excavate, and the hide must be large enough for them to move around in. For starters, a juvenile Tegus would be happy in a 36”x24”x20” secure enclosure, but they grow quickly, so you may need an enclosure 2X that size soon. Some handlers construct outdoor enclosures, however this is dependent on the weather. Tegus are highly intelligent, and their social abilities allow them to coexist in a single enclosure. All you have to do now is double everything for two people and adjust accordingly when you add a Tegus. When they’re domesticated, you can let them roam freely as long as the humidity and sunshine exposure are acceptable.

Cleaning

Daily basis, the dirty substrate must be removed. After each meal, any leftover food must be eliminated. Clean water must be added to the tip-proof water bowl on a daily basis. Every 2-3 months, the entire enclosure must be cleaned, including the accessories, furnishings, and skins. Put it back together after washing it with mild detergent, rinsing it thoroughly, and allowing it to dry. Changing the substrate every 4-6 months is a good option.

Handling

Tegus get more docile as they age, which implies they can get along with people rather well. However, you must ensure that your pet is used to being handled; otherwise, they may grow agitated and lash out. You don’t want to get on their wrong side, especially as these creatures can grow to have an exceedingly strong bite!

Diet

Tegus are omnivores and require a diet that is primarily consisting of meaty meals, with some fruits and vegetables thrown in for good measure. Any raw meat, such as pinkie mice or even cooked eggs, will suffice, but a modest amount of fruits and vegetables should be provided as well. Although Red Tegus are fed primarily meaty meals, expect to feed them more fruits and vegetables than their Tegu kin. Clean up any remaining food from the enclosure after each meal.

Substrate

The substrate must allow the Tegus to dig and excavate so make sure the substrate depth is adequate. Cypress mulch is an option but you can also use coconut fiber. Coconut fiber is an organic bedding option and completely safe for your pet. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding which is a high quality product.

Substrate Types

Cypress Mulch

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for lizards. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

• Retain moisture

• It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

• Costly

• Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Coconut Fiber

The coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option for Tegus. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.

Advantages:

•       Very natural look

•       Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•       Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

•       May attract mites and bugs over time

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

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A Guide on Pet Lizard Caring – Monitor Lizard

Appearance and Behaviour

Monitor Lizards are long and slender ground dwellers found in Australia’s Northern and Western Territories. They are typically brown or tan in colour, with a red or yellow tinge depending on lineage. When fully developed, the tail is usually 50-60% of the body length. Neonates are approximately 10 to 12 inches long when they are born and grow swiftly. Males achieve a total length of 412 to 5 feet in adults, and females reach a total length of 412 to 5 feet. Females typically reach a maximum total length of 312 feet. In captivity, a monitor can survive for 15 to 20 years with good care.

Monitor lizards are typically found in cracks between rocks or under slabs near rocky outcroppings. As their metabolism and energy levels are lower than those of other Australian reptiles, they are frequently seen waiting for prey in trap. They wander between taller basking sites and warm shaded areas during the day, picking up whatever prey they may find along the way. Beetles, cockroaches, tiny lizards, and mammals are among the most common.

Temperature and Lighting 

A monitor cage should have a temperature gradient that starts at 75 degrees Fahrenheit on the chilly end and rises to 100 degrees on the warm end. Provide a basking temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit, as measured by a thermometer, directly beneath a basking light. If you’re measuring temperatures using a non-contact infrared temp gun, aim for a value of 125 to 135 degrees.

Monitors are full-time basking species by nature, thus they require a high-intensity UVB source. Provide a strong 10-12 percent UV tube that runs for at least 2/3 of the enclosure’s length. You can raise the lamp’s strength based on the enclosure’s height, but in a standard 4 x 2 x 2ft vivarium, 10-12 percent should suffice. Although the monitor is a basking species, it may choose to spend some time in a dark environment. Provide partial and full hiding locations within the enclosure to achieve this.

Humidity

The monitor can tolerate a wide range of humidity levels, but it appears that a more humid and damp atmosphere makes them happy and facilitates shedding. In the middle of the enclosure, a relative humidity of 70 to 80 percent is usually adequate. Keep the substrate damp a few inches below the surface but rather dry on the top.

Housing

Monitors are used to working in hot environments and struggle with the cold and dampness. Keep the monitor lizard in a wooden vivarium to protect it from both of these hazards. We would generally choose an enclosure that is as near as 4 x 2 x 2ft as practical, with wide vents and glass sliding front doors, due to the temperature gradient required.

All of this ventilation should prevent heat from escaping from one side of the enclosure to the other while maintaining a steady temperature in the basking region.

Habitat Maintenance

At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat. Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3 percent bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly with water to remove any signs of bleach smell. Properly dry the tank and furnishings before adding clean substrate.

Grooming & Hygiene

Lizards lose their skin on a regular basis, keeping the humidity in the environment at an acceptable level to allow for optimal shedding. Bathe the lizard in a big container large enough for it to submerge its entire body, or use a shed box, a hide box with sphagnum moss, to aid in the shedding process.

Diet

A very well Monitor Lizards diet includes gut-loaded crickets, mealworms, waxworms, roaches, and commercial monitor diets, among other insects. Monitor lizards will eat common goldfish and frozen/thawed rats. High-fat foods, such as dog and cat food, should be avoided. Rodents that have been frozen and thawed may be offered on occasion. Do not defrost frozen rats in the microwave, and do not prepare them in the same area as meals. If it’s not possible to avoid it, clean the area thoroughly.

Feeding

When feeding your monitor, keep the following in mind:

  • There should always be fresh, clean, chlorine-free water accessible.
  • Feed the monitors on a daily basis.
  • Add a calcium supplement to your food every day, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice a week.

Common Health Issues

  • Gastro-intestinal disease: Bacterial or parasite illness causes runny faeces, caked or smeared stool around the vent area, and loss of appetite. Consult your veterinarian if you see this type of problem.
  • Metabolic bone/vitamin deficiency: Inability to absorb calcium due to a lack of UVB light or low calcium/vitamin D levels. If left untreated, it can lead to abnormalities and softening of the bones. Lethargy and swelling limbs. Consult your veterinarian and make sure you’re getting enough UVB light and calcium/vitamin supplements.
  • Respiratory disease: Mucus in the mouth or nose, as well as laboured breathing. An environment that is overly cold or humid can cause this.

Substrate for Monitor Lizards

For Monitor Lizard the ideal substrate is cypress mulch chips, soil mixture and coconut husk/coir by-products, such as EcoBed Reptile Bedding.

Coconut Husk

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

·   Very natural look

·   Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

·   Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

·       May attract mites and bugs over time

Cypress Mulch

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for Monitor lizards. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

• Retain moisture

• It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

• Costly

• Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Soil mixture

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Advantages:

·   Create a natural look.

·   Reptiles like to borrow it.

Disadvantages:

·   May create skin infection.

Conclusion:

If you decide to keep a monitor lizard as a pet, make sure you have everything ready before bringing him home. Your pet requires a good house and habitat that is both safe and large enough for them. He’ll also require all of the meals that will provide him with a balanced diet.

You can have a happy reptile that can live a long and healthy life with only a little preparation. These care sheets help you to care for your loving Monitor Lizards.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

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Caring for your pet Lizards- African Fat-Tailed Geckos

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

Reptiles make fascinating pets, but each species is fascinating in its own way. In this article we are going to discuss African fat-tailed geckos complete care guide.

African fat-tailed geckos are ground-dwelling nocturnal lizards native to West Africa’s deserts. African fat-tailed lizards become more popular as pets, mainly for their ability to live in captivity as well as their gentle affectations and willingness to be handled. 

Appearance

African Fat-Tailed Geckos natural colouring is a pale tan or brown background with prominent brown and tan stripes, with some having a faint white stripe running down their back. They are one of only a few geckos with eyelids, which help them keep their eyes clean in their dusty environment. As the popularity of this species increases, more and more African Fat-Tailed Gecko variants become accessible to eager owners. A popsicle orange or light grey is one of them.

Fat-tailed geckos have a body structure similar to leopard geckos, but they have a larger head and more robust feet. Hatchlings are typically 2 inches long and grow to be roughly 9 inches long. Males will have a broader head and be slightly larger than females.

Fat-tailed geckos have been known to live for 15-20 years in captivity when properly cared for.

Behaviour

African Fat-Tailed Geckos are highly docile, friendly, and calm lizards who spend their nights sleeping, basking, and occasionally searching for insects in the wild and in captivity. Unless they are severely threatened, they are unlikely to scratch or bite other animals or people over food or territory. During territorial disputes, to warn off other males, or to attract females, male African Fat-Tailed Geckos use quiet squeaks and clicks, and both sexes will squeak to ward off unwanted company. When they’re hunting, they’ll raise their tails and wave them around in the air to distract the victim before launching an attack. 

Lighting & Temperatures Requirements

Aft geckos are tough tiny creatures. They sleep in a hiding area during the day and are active

at night since they are nocturnal. These geckos do not require UVB lights. Any daylight should be turned off at night. During the day, keep your aft warm spot at 88-90 degrees. They are comfortable in the rest of the tank, which is kept at 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. It’s fine if the temperature dips into the low 70s at night as long as they have a warm hide to retreat to.

A heat pad is the simplest way to provide a warm hide for your gecko. It should be positioned beneath the tank, with the hide inside on top of it. Part of the tank should always be cooler so your gecko may control its body temperature by going from one to the other.

Humidity

Humidity should be between 50 and 60 percent, but up to 70 percent would Be ok. This can be accomplished by using a humidity-retaining substrate and positioning your water bowl on the tank’s hot end. Sometimes you may need to mist the tank once or twice a week, but you may find that the tank maintains this humidity without needing much misting. You may need to mist everyday if the natural humidity in your area is particularly low. To check the humidity, you’ll need a humidity reader.

Caging

African fat-tailed geckos are terrestrial in nature. So they need a structure with more floor space than height. Adults can live either in a 20-foot cage or an 18-foot enclosure 18″ x 12″ x 18″. That size can accommodate 1-2 adult fat-tailed geckos for the rest of their lives. It’s best to form groups of one male and one female or all females. If you’re doing a trio, a larger cage, such as an 24″ x 18″ x 12″, will be required.

Trios consist of 1 male, 2 females, or 3 females. They will fight if there are more than one adult male in an enclosure. It’s also essential to keep the size of your African fat-tailed geckos similar. Don’t put a baby in the same room as an adult. When one is substantially larger than the other, the smaller is frequently bullied by the larger.

EcoBed Reptile Bedding can be used as a loose substrate. A solid substrate, such as the normal paper towels, can also be used.

Handling tips for African Fat Tailed Geckos

When you initially get your new pet gecko home, avoid the want to start playing with it right away. Allow at least two weeks for your new pet to settle in before beginning to handle it. You can introduce yourself if your gecko has gained confidence in their new environment and is eating regularly. Keep an eye on you from outside the enclosure. Allow the lizard to become familiar with your hand by placing it in the enclosure.

As juveniles, African-fat-tailed geckos are usually more distrustful than adults. However, they will gradually stop running away from your hand and become accustomed to your presence. This is the point at which you can begin to deal with them. However, just because you’ve made it this far doesn’t imply your pet trusts you. Trust and friendship as far as lizards are concerned take time and consistent handling.

Handling Technique

  • The entire body should be supported.
  • Slow down your motions.
  • Never grab them from above, chase them down, or drag them out of a hiding spot.
  • Allow the gecko to climb onto you willingly whenever feasible.
  • Give them a bug as a prize.
  • Leave them alone if they’re shedding and don’t pull on loose skin.

Feeding and Diet

In their natural habitat, African Fat-Tailed Geckos are carnivorous and are not known to consume any plant materials.

Their diet consists primarily of insects and other invertebrates that they encounter on the savannahs at night, such as various species of worms, crickets, and beetles. They may only like to consume live prey in captivity, but the rest of their diet is simple to fulfill.

African Fat-Tailed Geckos should be fed crickets and other larval insects like mealworms when kept in captivity. They’ll also need extra supplements, such as vitamin D3, to help them adjust to their new surroundings.

Owners can either ‘dust’ the insects with calcium or other vitamin power, or ‘gut load’ their feeder insects with these nutrients.

Crickets and mealworms are preferred by African Fat-Tailed Geckos. Waxworms, silkworms, hornworms, and pinky mice are occasionally provided to them:

  • Hatchlings under the age of four months should only be given 12 sized crickets and should be fed 5 insects every day.
  • Adults should eat 9 crickets or worms every day. Their crickets can be a little bigger (2/3 the size of a normal cricket).

If your Gecko doesn’t consume the prey, it should be removed within a few hours. In their tank, there should always be a shallow water dish with clean water; they won’t drink from it, but it will help preserve moisture.

Substrate Nature

Paper towels or newspaper work nicely as a substrate for an African Fat-Tailed Gecko’s enclosure. The most common and safe bedding alternative is coconut husk. A fine orchid bark or a sandy soil mix are used by certain owners. Although it is critical that sand is not utilised as a substrate on its own because it might cause digestive issues and harm to the digestive tract. Paper will make daily spot cleaning easier, but it will need to be replaced every 2-3 days. Only change the orchid bark or compressed coconut bedding once a week.

Substrate Types

Paper towels or newspaper

Since paper towels and newspapers are absorbent, they have no odor-controlling properties. The availability, cost, ease of clean-up, and absence of potential ingestion are all factors that owners like. It is plainly unnatural for any reptile, but it poses no significant concerns.

Advantages:

·   Affordable.

·   Easy to replace.

·   Odor-free, Dust-free.

Disadvantages:

·       Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Coconut husk

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

·   Very natural look

·   Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

·   Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

·       May attract mites and bugs over time

Orchid bark

Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.

Advantages:

·   It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.

·   Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.

·   Increases water retention.

·       It’s sustainably sourced.

Disadvantages:

·   It will eventually break down.

·   It has an acidifying effect

Sandy soil mix

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Advantages:

·   Create a natural look.

·   Reptiles like to borrow it.

Disadvantages:

·   May create skin infection.

Some Interesting facts about African Fat-Tailed Geckos

1. Their Tails Are Fat, as the Name Indicates

2. The Gecko is healthier if its tail is thicker.

3. African Fat-Tailed Geckos Do Not Interact Socially

4. African Fat-Tailed Geckos Display Individual Patterns

5. Insectivorous Fat-Tailed Geckos

6. These Geckos Have the Ability to Blink

7. African Geckos with Fat Tails Aren’t the Best Climbers

8. In captivity, African Fat-Tailed Geckos thrive.

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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Chameleon

Chameleons are fascinating animals that only suit those who are totally into it. Chameleons are referred less for the beginner herpetologist because their care requirements are fairly particular and they are easily stressed. Many “true” chameleon species have native habitats ranging from Yemen and Saudi Arabia southward to Madagascar and areas of Eastern Africa.

Appearance and Behaviour

Young chameleons are often a dull gray/brown tint with the ability to shift shades. Around the age of five months, the adult colour and ability to shift colours emerge, and a variety of colours, including green, blue-green, turquoise, and black, are visible. Camouflage, temperature regulation, and communication with other chameleons are all benefits of changing hues. Chameleons, unlike anoles, change colours in response to a variety of stimuli, including excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other factors.

A stressed chameleon is usually dark brown to black, with brighter hues expressing a happy disposition.

Chameleons grab prey with their tongues. Chameleons can have tongues that are up to 1.5 times the length of their bodies, allowing them to grab insects from afar.

The veiled chameleon is one of the biggest chameleon species seen in captivity, with adult males reaching a total length of 2 feet and females reaching about 18 inches. Hatchling chameleons are about 3 to 4 inches long in total. A well-cared-for and robust male chameleon can survive for six to eight years as a pet. Females, on the other hand, have a lifespan of four to six years on average. Female chameleons produce sterile clutches of eggs even if they haven’t bred, similar to chickens. This consumes a lot of energy and eventually exhausts the females.

Basking Temperatures Requirements For Chameleon 

To thermoregulate and control their body temperature, chameleons require a temperature gradient. This effectively means that your enclosure must have both a hot and a cold side. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. As a result, your chameleon will be able to switch between the various temperatures as needed. If your cage is tall, your temperature gradient will be top to bottom rather than side to side.

A basking space with a temperature of 85-95 degrees should be available. The rest of the enclosure might be anything between 72 and 80 degrees. Temperatures can dip to as low as 65 degrees at night. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. A Reptile basking bulb is the simplest way to raise the temperature in your enclosure.

Lighting for Chameleon

Chameleons require UVA and UVB exposure. Additionally, allowing some exposure to natural sunshine through an open window will help keep chameleons happy and healthy because glass screens out virtually all of the necessary UV rays. UVB lights should be turned on for at least 10 hours every day.

Humidity level 

Chameleons spend the majority of their time in trees. They don’t drink from a motionless water bowl on the ground in the wild. Water your lizard at least twice a day using a spray bottle, usually for at least a minute each time, getting all the leaves and branches wet. Check to see if your pet is getting adequate water. It’s a symptom of dehydration if its eyes become sunken or less cone-shaped.

How do I set up a chameleon habitat?

Chameleons should be kept in separate enclosures. Choose a terrarium or screened enclosure that is at least 16 x 16 x 30 inches and is well-ventilated. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre or reptile bark, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Clean the floor material on a regular basis and replace it at least once a month. To elevate your pet no closer than 8 inches from the terrarium’s heat source, use rocks and real or artificial branches purchased from a store. The chameleon’s grip should be just slightly wider in diameter than the branches.

What do chameleons eat?

Feed your waxworms or chameleon crickets on a daily basis. Only give the chameleon as much as he or she can consume before the end of the day. Any leftovers should be discarded. Twice a week, dust insects with a calcium supplement. Once a day, chameleons should eat appropriate greens like collards or mustard greens. Provide only as much food as the Veiled Chameleon can consume in four hours, and then discard any leftovers.

Chameleons do not consume food from dishes. Instead, they hydrate themselves by licking water off their skin and the environment, thus keeping the habitat well-watered.

When to feed your chameleon? Keep the following in mind,

·   Water your plants by misting them 4 to 5 times each day and/or using a dripper.

·   Feed on a daily basis. Food should be available to children at all times.

·   Add a calcium supplement to your food once or twice a week, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice a week.

·   Vegetables that haven’t been consumed in the last 24 hours should be tossed.

Habitat Maintenance

At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat: Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3 percent bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water to remove any signs of bleach smell; properly dry the tank and furnishings before adding clean substrate.

Grooming & Hygiene

Chameleons shed their skin on a regular basis, so keep the humidity in the habitat at a comfortable level to allow for optimal shedding. Provide a shed box, such as a hide box filled with sphagnum moss, to aid in the shedding process.

Common Health Problems

Many chameleons are deficient in calcium and vitamin A, which is mainly caused by a poor diet. They’re also prone to mouth rot, commonly known as stomatitis, an infection that causes redness, copious saliva, and drooling around the mouth.

Metabolic bone disease is another common condition among chameleons. The bones of a chameleon become spongy due to this ailment, which can be fatal if not treated properly. They’ll appear sluggish and possibly lose their appetite.

It’s best to visit a veterinarian who specialises in reptiles if your pet appears ill or anxious, as with any other condition. Before consulting a veterinarian, try to stay away from home cures.

Handling

While some chameleons will tolerate some handling, the most will not. Excessive holding causes most people to get stressed. Chameleons prefer to be at the top of the food chain. Even those that are used to being handled will normally prefer to walk up your arm and to the top of your head. Some chameleons prefer to come out of their enclosure and walk around on a network of vines or “trees” that you have set up for them.

You’ll learn about your chameleon’s personality and what it will accept in terms of interaction and handling as you work with it. Have a good time and enjoy your lovely pet.

Interesting facts about Chameleon

·    There are more than 200 chameleon species.

·    Chameleons come in a wide range of sizes.

·    They use their toes and tails to get around.

·    Chameleons don’t change colors to camouflage themselves.

·    They have panoramic vision.

·    They have sticky, speedy tongues.

Substrate for your Chameleon

The bottom of a cage or enclosure is lined with substrate or bedding. Simple flat newspaper is the finest substrate for chameleons because it is inexpensive, recyclable, and easy to dispose of. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Avoid beddings with minute particles, such as sand, kitty litter, cedar, gravel, corn cob bedding, and beddings that hold extra moisture if a particulate or natural substrate is employed. Bacterial and fungal growth can be aided by moisture retained in bedding.

Substrate Types

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy way is to use newspapers, which are generally readily available in the home. To cover the entire floor area, use three or four layers of newspaper. It is advised that newspaper substrates be replaced on a daily basis. Spills should be cleared as quickly as possible. Despite their unsightly appearance, newspapers are a reasonably cost-effective solution.

Pros:

•       Easy to replace

•       Affordable

Cons:

•       Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Coconut Fiber

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

Besides Chameleons, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a good choice. Coconut is one of the most secure substrates accessible. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antimicrobial properties as well. It will capture and even kill bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.

Pros:

•       Very natural look

•       Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•       Affordable and good value

Cons:

•       May attract mites and bugs over time

Choosing Your Chameleon

When looking for a pet chameleon, search for one that has been captive bred. Wild-caught species are typically anxious, have a high parasite load, and have a hard time acclimating to captivity.

Chameleons aren’t the easiest or most difficult reptiles to care for, and starting with a stressed animal can only make things worse. Furthermore, the capture and transportation of chameleons, which is now more strictly regulated, resulted in the deaths of numerous animals. Many more animals perish in transit than ever make it to the pet store.

Observe a captive-bred chameleon once you’ve discovered one. They should be energetic and bright, with the ability to change colours and a well-fleshed body.

Different Species of Chameleon

Chameleons come in a variety of colours and are popular as pets. Here are a few possibilities to think about:

Veiled Chameleon

Veiled chameleons are hardy, striking-looking lizards with tall casque helmet-like structures on the tops of their heads. Both males and females have a casque that helps direct water that drips onto their heads into their mouths. Veiled chameleons have bands of green, yellow, and brown on their body that shift to different colours.
Small children and novice lizard keepers should avoid these chameleons as pets.

Jackson’s Chameleon

Jackson’s chameleons were native to East Africa, but in recent years have been introduced into California, Hawaii, and even Florida.
The length of a Jackson’s chameleon, including the tail, ranges from 9 to 13 inches. Males are often bigger than females. In captivity, they can survive for 5 to 10 years.

Panther Chameleon

Panther chameleons appear in a variety of spectacular colour morphs or phases, each of which is named after a geographical region in its native environment of Madagascar. Females have less colour variety, frequently orange or brownish, and a less striking “helmet” of ridges along the sides of the head than males, as well as being smaller.
Panther chameleons are a favourite among lizard owners because of their generally calm nature and the fact that they’re very easy to care for compared to other lizards.

green-iguana-posterCategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Green Iguana

Green iguanas can be found throughout North and South America’s tropical and subtropical regions. Green iguanas are found throughout Mexico, Central America, and South America, including Paraguay and Argentina. Green iguanas can be found across the Lesser Antilles, as well as the Greater Antilles and Southern Florida in recent years. Green iguanas are an invasive species in the Greater Antilles and southern Florida. Iguanas are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets. They prefer sunbathing or being exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and they eat a diet rich in leafy greens and vegetables.

What We Like About Green Iguanas:

Pros:

  • In its native nations, this species is known as “palo gallino” or “bamboo chicken.”
  • On top of their heads, they have a “third eye,” a photosensory organ.
  • Face recognition is a capability of iguanas. This means they can figure out who looks after them.
  • Hatchlings can stay together for up to a year. Males in the family group frequently guard females, a trait rarely seen in other reptiles.

Cons:

  • Large, complicated enclosures with plenty of perches and room are required for iguanas.
  • This lizard has unique requirements for temperature and illumination.
  • It can take months for them to become accustomed to human interaction.
  • During breeding seasons, males may become more aggressive.

Appearance

green-iguana

The name implies that Green Iguanas are only green, although this is not the case. They can actually come in a range of hues. Red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, and orange iguanas are available. Their price usually rises as the colour gets scarcer, such as yellow, white, and black. Color is greatly influenced by location and selective breeding. They shed in chunks on a regular basis, just like other lizards. This process can be aided by regular soaking, but when sufficiently hydrated, they should be able to remove the skin on their own.

Green iguanas can grow to be 6 to 7 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds. Male green iguanas grow to be longer than female green iguanas, which rarely grow to be more than 5 feet long. Male green iguanas also have larger spikes on their backs and massive femoral pores on the underside of their back legs as they develop. Green iguanas can live for 15 to 20 years if properly cared for.

Handling

A Green Iguana can be docile and quiet in captivity if gentle socialisation is practised from a young age. If they haven’t been socialised or are in the presence of a stranger, they may exhibit defensive behaviours including hissing, biting, clawing, tail whipping, or stiffening. As hatchlings, green iguanas might be stressed. Excessive handling can exacerbate this, making it more difficult to socialise. Avoid handling your Iguana after they’ve been moved into their new enclosure. Instead, try moving the cage’s décor about to make them used to you. Start with feeding them with your hands to get a feel for how to handle them. Once they identify you with feeding, they will begin to trust you. You can begin managing trust once it has been established. For certain species, this process can take months.

Keep the following in mind when handling your Green Iguana:

·   Keep their face away from yours

·   Keep their tail pointing towards the ground behind you

·   Brace their weight by placing your hand between their forelimbs

Captive Environment

Adult Iguanas in captivity require a vivarium measuring at least 6′ x 5′ x 4′. If extra space is available, it is best. Most people will give a fully grown adult Iguana a room in their home. 12-14 hours each day, use full spectrum 5 percent UVB illumination. Provide a shady spot with access to a cooler spot. A heat gradient in their aquarium is preferred by all reptiles. A UVB bayonet lamp for basking at one end of the tank, with a heat mat under the same side, would be ideal. Hides, branches, reptile plants/leaves, and substrate like Coconut fiber are all excellent choices. Although personal preference is important, try to adhere to wooden hides and leaves, as these creatures’ dwell in trees, and sand for substrate and caves for hides are not appropriate for their natural habitat.

Cleaning & Misting

Since green iguanas consume a lot, they will leave a lot of waste in their cage. As a result, you should remove faeces and plant detritus with a substrate shovel on a daily basis. You should also inspect their faeces during this time. Make sure there’s a good mix of dark and light urates. An imbalance between the two, or their complete absence, can indicate digestive problems. You should clean your Iguana’s cage and replace the substrate every four weeks. If you’re using live plants, make sure to carefully remove them while preserving the root structure. Soap and water should be used to scrub all surfaces. Any removable décor should be soaked in a 10 percent bleach solution to destroy microorganisms.

Lighting & temperatures

Green iguanas are native to the tropics. You’ll want to provide them with a basking area as well as a chilly place where they can adjust their body temperature. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. Your iguana will be able to move back and forth between the different temperatures as needed. A 100–115-degree basking space should be supplied. The temperature in the rest of the enclosure can be in the 80–85-degree range. Temperatures can dip to as low as 75 degrees at night. Use a decent temperature gauge, such as a digital thermometer or a thermometer. For a baby iguana, one basking bulb is sufficient, but for an adult iguana, at least two bulbs should be placed next to each other to provide a bigger space for your iggy to heat up. Warming a large-bodied iguana takes a lot of energy. It’s great if it’s a little more spread out and not too hot in one spot.

Iguanas require UVB lighting in addition to heat to help them absorb calcium and produce vitamin D3. We must offer UVB light in the form of a special fluorescent bulb designed to create UVB rays because they do not receive natural sunlight in our homes. Heat rocks should not be used. Green iguanas have evolved a particular adaptation for basking, which allows them to absorb heat from above. They can get severely burned on a heat rock if they don’t notice it’s too hot until it’s too late.

Humidity and Water Requirements

Iguanas demand moderate to high humidity levels. Every other day, mist the vivarium. Additionally, provide a large, relatively deep-water dish for drinking and bathing. Place the water dish over half of the basking area to allow the heat to produce water vapour, which will increase humidity. As water stimulates the bowls of all reptiles, this will need to be cleaned out thoroughly every day. Also, check the water levels every time you are near your tank to make sure it hasn’t all evaporated. Also, make sure you use just lukewarm water. They might be shocked and possibly die if they come into contact with ice cold water.

Green Iguana Food

Raw natural foods purchased in a supermarket and professionally prepared “Iguana Food” can readily meet the dietary needs of green iguanas. Collard greens, turnip greens, dandelions, yellow squash, entire green beans, and other vegetables are great for your green iguana. We also give fruit on a weekly basis. Diarrhea can occur if a green iguana’s diet is high in fruit.

Small green iguanas require slightly different food preparation than adult green iguanas. When chopping raw veggies, make sure each piece is the right size for the green iguana to simply pick up and consume whole. Keep in mind that green iguanas can’t chew their food and must swallow it whole.

Green Iguana Substrate

A solid substrate must be used to avoid the possibility of your Green Iguana eating the substrate. Particulate substrates are not advised at all because they can create health issues for your Green Iguana if swallowed mistakenly. Coconut fiber, newspaper are recommended.

Coconut fiber

For most iguana owners, the coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. When the iguanas are young and in their large pen, coconut is a good substrate to utilise. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.

Pros:

•      Very natural look

•      Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•      Affordable and good value

Cons:

•      May attract mites and bugs over time

Newspaper

Another viable substrate choice is newspaper. Using newspapers, which are often easily available in the home, is a simple method. Three or four layers of newspaper should be used to cover the entire floor area. Daily replacement of newspaper substrates is recommended. Any spills should be cleaned up as soon as possible. Newspapers are a relatively cost-effective solution, despite their unappealing appearance.

Pros:

•      Easy to replace

•      Affordable

Cons:

•      Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection 

Artificial Grass Patch

For the large region that needs to be covered with iguanas, an artificial grass patch works nicely. It is more expensive than the other products, but the benefits may be worth it to you. Iguanas can safely eat the synthetic material because it is lead-free and non-toxic even when wet. It has a natural-looking pattern that is full and comfortable to the touch. You don’t have to do anything to get it up and running. Simply place it where you want it and plonk it down. The colour won’t leak when exposed to sunshine or the UVB lights your iguana need because it’s UV resistant. The grass has drainage pores in it, making it resistant to mould caused by standing water. This also makes cleanup a breeze. This grass will last for years if no severe harm occurs.

Pros:

•      Easy to use and clean

•      Soft, natural feel

•      Durable product to last years

•      Safe and resistant to mold

Cons:

•      High price

Fun facts about the green iguana

·   If they are trapped, they can detach their tails and grow a new one. That’s ingenious!

·   They have superb eyesight, which allows them to see prey or detect danger from afar.

·   Despite being classified as omnivores, they prefer a herbivorous diet.·   Green iguanas have razor-sharp teeth that can rip leaves from trees and puncture human skin.