CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Manure Management Worm Bedding
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5 Bedding Reasons for Worms

Growing worms in your compost is the very best idea for an ideal composition and nutrient breakdown. The worms composting the soil date back than our knowledge of fertilizing. 

Worms are the living resource for fertility and life essence. Worms feed on decaying organic matter, digest it and transform into nutrient-rich fertilizer in a span of 2 months. 

The derived fertilizer is odorless and neutralized, which means, pH of the casting is neutral (7), without foul odor. The casting contains bacteria in it, which continues its biological activity even when put into soil.

As such, comforting the worms in its surroundings is of top priority. Maintaining a healthy system will need you a better shelter, warm temperature, plenty of air, optimal moisture and a perfect bedding composition. 

For our further talk let us consider Red Worms as the topic of interest. Red Worms, or Red Wigglers are the mostly used soil dwelling worms that are commonly found in moist manure and compost heaps. 

They are also the shallow-dwellers that feed on decaying organic matter and are easily adaptable for household and plant wastes actively within worm bins. 

Better Shelter

If you’re making a compost for your own purpose within the organic material produced in your home kitchen, garden and pet feces, then choosing a plastic storage tote is an ideal option. 

You can pick up a tote of depth 12 to 18 inches, and a roundabout surface area of 1 sq ft which can account for 1-2 lb of food and pet wastes.  

To prevent an excessive moisture buildup inside the tote, you need to make proper drainage holes at the around and bottom of the tote. For that, you’re supposed to place the one tote container into the other, so that the other will act as a basin for excessive moisture capture.  

These kinds of drainage holes will provide adequate oxygen supply inside the compost tote. Later some time, you can place the inner tote out of a holed container and place it on wooden plank or PVC feet.

Warm Temperature

As said earlier, the Red worms are the commonly used earthworm species for composting those who are best reared at 65-80o F, which is optimal for active composting. 

Cooler the temperature, slower will be the decomposition rate. 

On the contrary, if the temperature is too warm, it might harm the worm a lot. 

In the months of cooler temperatures, care must be taken to elevate off the tote than concrete floor, rather than letting it affect the decomposition rate. 

Plenty of Air

Worms are the aerobic organisms whose lives mostly depend on the oxygen availability around them. The very existence of worms is determined by absorbing oxygen in and giving out carbon dioxide after metabolism.

So a large surface area of exposure to air is the most. Keep the lid open to your bin, ventilate sufficiently. 

A compact waste deposition or a soggy loading will result in a void of oxygen, producing anaerobic composition. An anaerobic environment renders foul smell, rooting garbage, avoid complete decomposition. 

Optimal Moisture

Worms require optimal moisture maintenance. Both worms and microbial bacterias work in the environment of 60-90% moisture. 

While adding the bedding, it should be pre-moistened like a wet sponge.

The worm bin must be loosely covered with a dark sheet/ burlap on top so that it can conserve moisture within. 

If placed outside, a solid lid is to be covered to prevent unwanted scavengers and rain. 

Perfect Bedding composition  

There are a number of bedding material choices available for worm comfort. Such as shredded newspaper-cardboard, leaf mold-straw, peat moss, coco coir and grits that are used along the manure and animal wastes. 

It is very important to maintain the moisture in the bedding before placing worms over it. An average of 60% moisture is sure for the bedding to be damp but not dripping wet. You can use a Squeeze technique to ensure the right proportion of moisture. 

A perfect blend of 50-50 of shredded paper and coco coir with light dusting of grits is best suited for initial bedding. Or, 25% of shredded newspaper, 25% coco coir, 25% manure mix, 25% mold leaves and some light dusting of grits will do well. 

You can put the bedding in advance of worm composting. By doing so, you create an active environment for introducing worms in. 

You can even add some compost tea/ worm casting/ mature compost at the bottom of the bin. In that way, you will promote inoculation microbial growth in new bedding. This pre-inoculation will reduce the transition stress suffered by the worms when transferred to new bedding. 

All these key features are benefited by the choice of bedding in worm composting!

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks Worm Bedding
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Why do Vermiculturist reach out for Coco Coir bedding ?

Worm Farming is a professional cultivation of worms for the cause of converting waste such as fruits, vegetables, food and animal faeces into organic fertilizers. 

A worm, as a key asset in balancing effective and efficient fertigation of compost needs to be well grown. 

Bedding gives off a fresh environment for worms, a space to move around and shelter.  

The worm bin bedding should regard every detailing that concerns worm growth-content-productivity. 

Worm farmers/ Vermiculturist decide on choice of bedding used for their worms based on the factors below. 

  • Non-abrasive
    The worm’s skin is delicate and can be easily hurt. 
  • Light weighed
    The bedding should be light-weighted, easy to carry even when wasted. 
  • Deeply aerated
    It is crucial for any bedding to allow air-water flow and lesser thick odor. 
  • High moisture
    Must retain water for a longer duration.
  • Neutral pH
    Neither being acidic nor basic gives bedding a neutrality as a bedding substrate. 
  • Fibrous nature
    Bedding must be made of fibrous material like cellulose in order to convert into carbon molecules after breaking down from energy conversion. 

Likewise, any Worm Bedding needs to qualify the above said quality to be a supple bedding choice. Sometimes, worms do eat their bedding, so it is precarious to use biological bedding. 

As such, Coco Coir Worm Bedding is one-among-many that benefits worms in multiple ways. 

Coco Coir is a fibrous material derived from coconut husk, is an all-natural, non-toxic, non-abrasive, cost-effective product that improves worms’ inhabitants. 

Coir is light- weighted, readily fluffed, has air pockets for easy air-water flow, enables free access for worm movement. 

It is a super absorbent(50-60% moisture) with high saturation, holding water(every 1lbs brick holds 6lbs of water) and nutrients effectively, keeping the worm bin moist-damp. Thus foul odor managed. 

It is a harmless choice that is non-toxic, chemical-free, inert to chemical reaction that supasses any other worm bedding available. 

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Horse Bedding Manure Management Tips & Tricks
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Horse Manure Management Guidelines

In this article, we are discussing the better management of manure and reducing the risk of pollution caused by manure, bedding and feed wastes. 

Composting is one such great method that produces a stable-sustainable-storable product that inhibits pathogens growth, and conserves nutrient quality in it. 

The Management of composting horse manure includes Composting Mix, Maintaining, Monitoring and Testing of Manure and Compost, Environmental Issues, Compost Use and Costs. 

Composting Mix

The very first recommendation is to get the right composition for composting mix. The mix needs to comprise an optimal level of 3 main factors that depict the worth of the end product.   

The amount of manure, feedstock and bedding in the compost pile are thoroughly mixed. The Moisture, Air flow and C:N ratio plays a critical role in mixing compilation. 

Maintaining 

The composting can be done, both in Open pile and Closed shed as per the care taker’s wish. Building a shed for composting makes it easy for handling horse manure, pleasant surroundings and there will be less chance of nutrient runoff and leaching issues. 

It is preferred to make a Buffered zone for compost maintenance, isolated from residential and water resources. It helps prevent water pollution due to leachate, runoff and air pollution from foul odor. 

The buffer zone is subject to compliance with local ordinances and is recommended to be 150 feet from living quarters and the bottom elevation should be above water level or installed on concrete slabs. 

Open Pile– Like a free-stacking of hay pile, the manure pile can be raised till the height of 4-6’ tall. A regular mixing is required to ensure pathogen reduction, that a good stacking with minimal overturning will make good compact. A carefully considered piling is required to prevent leaching and runoff. 

Closed Shed– A shed composting consists of several side-bins, when the first bin is filled, then the content can be turned into the next bin. The pile height should not exceed 6 feet to ensure that compost is aerated. Bins are covered with roof to reduce possible runoff and no leachate is generated under the roof. 

Proper over-turning of compost is essential. 

The important aspect for a composting site is to allow access all-year round and well drained.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
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3 Factors of Horse Manure Management

Compost is basically a biological process that converts organic matter into fine particle humus. It involves a series of decomposition of microorganisms, digesting of organic matters. In this case, the organic matter is Horse Manure, Feeds and Beddings.  

Composting helps minimize the waste-maximise microbial activity, thus balancing the farm ecosystem, tending hygiene and ensuring horses’ health. 

On an average, every horse produces 30 lbs of feces and 2.5 gal. of urine along with spoiled bedding of about 10-12 lb is disposed every day. All up together, this accounts almost 50-65 lbs/day. 

The crisis of waste management starts with 5 important reasons that depicts the need for proper management of manure, popularly known as Horse Manure Management.

The main aim of Horse Manure Management is to keep each and every aspect of manure in check.

Originally, Horse Manure varies from horse to horse, feeds provided and type of bedding used, and is best if sorted early when manure produced is measured on weekly routine.  

These manures are the valuable and un-utilised resource that mobilise large amount of soil amendment and plant nourishing fertilizers.

Composting is one such method deployed in Horse Manure Management, and is feasible-affordable for every barn/farm owner. 

Composting enriches gardens, pastures by improving soil texture, aeration and water retention. Also, compost mix helps increase soil fertility, control erosion and balance pH. 

However, key features need to be ensured for proper composting and a good final product.

Temperature

Temperature is one of the most important indicator of how well your composting is taking place. The temperature is a fluctual result of airflow in and out of the manure pile. If the airflow is at optimal level, higher the temperature, greater the heat generated.

Try flipping your pile upside down, to distribute heat evenly throughout the massive pile. An even distribution of hot air will help suppress pathogens, fly larvae and weed seed/egg and accelerate the speed of decomposition. 

Although, a vigilant temperature needs to be maintained in order to carry out decomposition steady and swift. 

More generally, a lower temperature range of 50-110oF is required at initial stages of decomposition, later 110-160oF to break down organic matter, kill weeds, pathogens and increase microbial activity as they are hyper-thermal activists. Over a period of weeks or month, the temperature gradually drops to ambient temperature for the decomposition to settle down.

Either way, overheating immobilises many beneficial organisms or falling behind will hinder decomposition rate. 

Lower the surrounding temperature; lower will be the composting rate. At the times of Winter, it takes 3-6 month for a normal compost to happen while it only takes 1-2 months for a pile to turn compost during Summer. 

Note: Always keep piles upto 3-4 feets high and square base of 5-7 feets for building up a necessary temperature pressure within it. Get a Compost thermometer at local stores to get exact compost temperature every few days. 

Moisture content

Moisture Management is necessarily a priority task while composting. An apt moisture will bring a perfect compost mix else it leads to odor, slow decomposition, and hard to achieve high temperature. 

Either, the lack of moisture will cause composting organisms to dry out and prevent pile heat up. 

There are severe ways to make sure that your pile is having sufficient moisture or not. 

One, you can manually check by squeezing the pile of innermost layers and see through it. If it is damp enough to hold moisture or too wet that it dries out after squeezing leaving behind dry lump. Then make a precautionary moist supply. 

Two, cover your pile using a tarp sheet to prevent it from getting excessively wet in the rainy season or too dry in hot days of summer.  This will also help limit flies, weeds and sweeping nutrients off the pile.

Three, frequent watering will help balance water hold, as it evaporates due to heat and airflow. Try turning the pile either side to provide a significant amount of water to it. 

Also, you may select the right location for your pile build, making it more convenient for clean-carry out-use. A right place, which is high enough to drain excess water or pour additional water when required, thus moisture maintained. 

Pile composition

Often the compost quality depends upon Pile Composition. Pile material provides essential nutrients, and vital decomposing proportion for compost, it renders ‘Carbon for Energy and Nitrogen for Growth’. The microorganisms that are turned into compost are fueled by Carbon and Nitrogen. 

Nitrogen is mainly found in manure and Carbon is found in bedding material, their proper proportion ensures successful composting. An ideal C:N proportion is estimated between 25:1 to 30:1, where carbon is in larger numbers. 

More precisely, Carbon is primarily released by carbon-rich material like straw, wood chips, shavings, sawdust and leaves while animal-byproducts like manure and feeds are rich in Nitrogen. 

Avoid using more bedding into pile build-up, more the bedding (carbon); longer the time for compost completion. Alternatively, if you’re using Coco bedding for your horse, you can reduce carbon pile up in your compost and reduce decompose after effects. 

Note: Compost is combustible, keep the compost pile away from housing, avoid smoking near the compost pile. 

A finished compost will reduce to half its original size, smells good and be like a rich soil. 

CategoriesDairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle
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5 Reasons for Horse Manure Management

Composting is a best way of manure and waste management to avoid potential threats to horse lives and deformation of manure piles. 

A slight mismanagement of manure pile will affect, 

  1. Horses which are gazing over its own manure be infected by worm seeds/eggs,
  2. Flies, pests and their odor plunges all around surround neighbourhood,
  3. The pile of horse and bedding waste is insightful and decrease barn captivity,
  4. If the manure were too soggy and ran down to the water source, it causes serious water quality issues, 
  5. Higher C:N ratio of manure pile will turn out good for none.

It is estimated that around 25 cubic yards of manure and bedding is being generated every year from each barn. It gives off stingy, foul odor and is doomed to bring a health crisis if not attended in time. 

It also contains harmful disease-causing pathogens, parasites that can easily pollute water systems, so it has to be off-limited within 50feets away from the drainage point, and treated tactfully and consistently. 

Manure pile

Composting plays as a best resolute for manure-waste management, and is believed to be ecologically friendly. The worth of composting strikes as it is, 

  1. The ideal material for creating quality compost for garden or pasture,
  2. Composting breaks down microbial bacteria and fungi into nourishment source,
  3. Compost manure decomposes into nutrient rich and odorless supplement,
  4. It is time, space and cost efficient to compost your manure at stall,
  5. It helps control temperature and odor of manure pile.

Basically, manure(feces, bedding, urine) consists of fertilizer nutrients like nitrogen(N), potassium(K2O) and phosphorus(P2O5) that are essential for plant growth.

A compost horse manure makes a rich source of nutrient as a soil amendment. It infuses micro and macronutrients that works as the time passes and also provides beneficial bacteria and fungi for soil nurture. Studies show that a manure compost makes the plant healthier and disease-resistant. 

In simple terms, composting takes place in Heating Phase and Curing Phases.

Compost pile

Heating phase comprises bacterial breakdown to generate heat of temperature about 130oF that lasts for a month together to sterilize the weed seeds and form primary plant fertiliser. 

Curing phase is held in lower temperature that burns fungal, worm residue in compost bin and takes upto 3-4 months after heat phase to take down nitrogen and other organic compounds under control (stable). Gardeners’ most refer to cured compost as it contains more fermented nitrogen and provides additional fertilizing result. 

After all these, the compost you prepared can be used personally or be sold in the market. Manure compost has quite a value in the sale !!

CategoriesCoir Products Lifestyle
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Coir Products- An Ecological Aid

Coir Netting- As Soil Stabilizer

A highly durable, long lasting organic netting is the key requirement for any customers to opt for, where EcoNet Coir Netting is in the lead, that renders an optimal surface protection and longevity stay.

They are economical eco-friendly, 100% biodegradable, easy installable netting available.

Coco netting are fabricated by entwining of single or double yarns woven by looms into Coir Net, that are often woven along with straw mulch.

It is ranked among the reliable Erosion Control products, by pertaining

  •  Stability in the areas of high fluctuation like bank, slope, hill, wetlands while intercepting the run down water establishing a dense plantation.
  • Forms a wind and moisture barrier by enclosing large surfaces of high flow/ slow grow area, in inhibiting drying of top soil and seeds.
  • By adding the underlying Coir filter, it further provides robust surface protection.
  • Its strong, flexible, durable nature enabled vegetation reinforcement.
  • By an expanded life span (3-5 years) it equips slow nurture of vegetation.
  • Their phenomenal decaying yields in flourishing of top soil. 

Also will dissipate water currents, intakes excess of solar radiation, thus presenting as Soil-bioengineering tool. In ecological means, it helps lower the Carbon footprint in that area.

All put together, it is a tailor-made product to pique an interest in consumers.

Coir Log- For Soil Amendment 

A naturally extracted fibrous log is 100% environmental friendly and self-degradable.

The origin of coco logs is driven from an enclosure of intertwined braids of compact coconut coir (Coir Web) by an exterior coco mesh Netting.

Coco logs are favorable for geo bio-engineering purposes.

In Restoration Projects, coco logs are mainly deployed in the region of sloppy landscapes, in-touch areas with waves and water current (highly unstable) through establishing a new wetland plantation.

They form effective Construction Check points, in exhibiting superior tensile strength, high durability while retaining substrate and filtrating debris.

It is a strongly in-led, flexible log employed in various circumstances, depicted as

  •  Efficient in Erosion Controlling, as far as holding the soil intact, in the means of establishing dense plantations in lane by building up a wider contour.
  • While imparting an unparalleled support for surrounding vegetation by providing nourishment, creating microclimate for germination of seeds.
  • It is permeable to air and water making a beneficiary bone for aqua-terrestrial species as an easy survival.
  •  Also shielding the surrounding wild inhabitants against water-borne catastrophe.

Coco logs are tailor-made for their superior long lasting, about 2-5years, unhurried degrading nature, for facilitating vegetation growth as compost fertilizer.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Horse Bedding Tips & Tricks
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Top 9 Measures before laying Horse Bedding

Horses are the charming and a faithful companion, being along the human race imparting an immense love and care towards their partner. And it is also an apt investment done at once for the latter’s yield. The last thing you want to do is endanger their health or even their life without a prior knowledge in the aspect of bedding. So better be prepared than repent.

The word bedding is a consoling term that eases the seekers with peace and comfort, at the same time delivers a tacit boon for the owners. For horses, by default they don’t require a soft-sponge like bed but a sturdy, durable and hard to wear out. According to what so said, below are the critical criteria that are to be met, before making a bedding:

  • Safer for horse
  • Absorbent and Dust free
  • Hoof supportive- Resilient
  • Cushioning hocks and joints- Sturdy
  • Hygienic
  • Space and time feasible
  • Easy available
  • Biodegradable
  • Economical

Safer for horses

If you are approaching a non-traditional product, be sure to check with your vet or other knowledgeable resource because some materials are extremely toxic to horses. As some kinds of chipping served as bedding are not recommendable, as they are toxic to horses when eaten, especially those used in landscaping (such as black locust, parts of oak trees, horse chestnut, etc.). Also, horses could be tempted to eat the molding green material in the chips, you should evaluate any health risk before choosing.

Absorbent and Dust free

You’ll want an absorbent bedding with low dust, mold and foreign object count. Also, the greater the bedding’s absorbency, the lower the ammonia level will be in your barn, and breathing ammonia can damage lung tissue in you and your horse.

The biggest threat comes from airborne dust and spores that can attack the horse’s respiratory system, ranging from mild inflammation and mucus production to chronic, career-ending Recurrent Airways Obstruction disease (RAO – sometimes still referred to as COPD or the ‘heaves’). That’s why the choice of a dust-free bedding and the proper management of the stable environment are critical for equine professionals and owners. 

Hoof Supportive

Like its respiratory system, the horse’s hooves are evolved to cope with very different conditions than those found in most stables today. The best bedding must provide firm, resilient support under the hoof, particularly the fog and a moisture-controlled environment that will keep the hoof dry, but won’t dry it out.

Cushioning Hocks and Joints

In a modern stable with solid walls and a concrete floor, a good, deep, aerated bedding should provide a insulation between the horse and the floor, and a protective cushion that will help prevent the kind of common damage such as capped hocks that can so easily occur when a horse is lying down, getting up or rolling in the stable.

Hygienic

Essential stable hygiene is something traditionally dealt with by periodic disinfecting. If not, later at some point of time, bedding may turn into a host for bacteria and fungi that will quickly re-contaminate the stable, especially when wet, generating pathogens that can invade and infect the respiratory system, cuts and grazes on the legs, and cracks or splits in the hoof. So go up with the periodic check for bedding hygiene and the bedding that embraces anti-fungal, anti-allergen naturally.

Space and Time feasible

The compressed blocks mean it’s easy to store and transport and the storage of bedding will be a major issue for people with shorter on land space. Stacked in the racks of the storage room or bed spread in the stable, it’s required to be less space consuming and laying the bed along the stall using a paddock is much easier than thought.

Easy Available

Bedding availability throughout the year and their accessibility in your locality is the foremost necessary that you should take care of. Along with the transport or delivery and shipping feasibility are to be checked.

Biodegradable

The bedding has to be 100% organic, environmentally friendly and reduce the stable waste. If the stable waste were to compost, beddings make the major contribution to the compost piles. On an average, it may take 6 months or so for compost bedding to break-down into muck heap.

Economical

Cost is inevitably a factor in an owner’s choice of bedding, but values are the far more important measure of cost effectiveness. Being environmentally sustainable, easily available, it has to be affordable for all hobbyist and professional owners of the barn, on buying new one that are highly absorbent doesn’t need to use as much. Buying in bulk may save you some money, too.

On the whole, buying an ideal product in terms of superior quality and cost-effective with easy handling and maintenance and with little waste, saving you both time and money is a suggestion we render on part of our team.  

 Hoping you a thoughtful day, be safe and healthy.

CategoriesDairy Farm
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Daily life at barn

Have you ever wondered, what are the chores that incur ultimate attention from Barn attendants? What might be the daily routines or weekly once? 

Barn, the place where livestock such as cattle, horses and many other animals inhabit is the place that requires pensive care by the barn attendant. Truth to speak, most of the barn chores are fun when spent more time with your beloved. 

Regardless of raising in your home or boarding, close monitoring relieves the mind. 

The actual chores vary from the number of horses you raise, and the place where they dwell. Some of the tasks are less explicit than others like dumping poop and scrubbing out algae filled water troughs etc.

Some of the most common barn routine are,

  • Cleaning the stall
    Clean means free of dirt and organic matter such as manure. This means the removal of all manure and feed, followed by washing, scrubbing and rinsing, or pressure washing, all surfaces with hot water and detergent. Studies have shown that over 90% of bacteria are removed from surfaces that are thoroughly cleaned.
  • Applying new bedding
    Based on the needy area, the new bedding is spread out up to the layer of 5inch, the volume of spreading of their wish, as horses like fluffy under their feet.
  • Feeding horse hay
    Feeding horses is a barn chore that needs to be done every day (multiple times a day). Roughly around 15-20lbs of hay a day. Horses need adequate pasture or hay at all times. It is suggested that for healthier horses, feeding more often or free-fed will do good.
  • Regular check for clean and fresh drinking water from time to time.
    The most vital things for horses are food and water. Horses drink about 5-10 gallons of water a day. Water is also extremely important for gut health and keeping the horses system moving.
    A regular change in water is must. In summer, water grow algae due humid temperature, and in winter water turn cold not siutable for drinking.
  • Feeding supplements (and required medication)
    Many horses do not need grain or any supplement to sustain their weight or health. If required, should be prepared ahead of time.  
  • Periodic checking for any injuries, wounds or ill symptoms
    Horses are always prone to accidents. Just like, running into fences, rubbing on their paddocks, horses cause themselves many injuries along the runway accidents.
    Depending on the severity of injuries, some basic treatment can done, or consulting veterinarian is precautious. 
  • Washing and cleaning of horse
    A thorough washing and cleaning will always keep horses fresh and in a good mood.  Also alleviate prospect disease caused by buds and worms.
    In requirement of horse’s state of being and caretakers convenience, bathing can be done 3-4 days once.
    Based on weather and season, horses must be clothed properly. In summer, fly sheet, fly boots and fly mask can be used, while in winter, horses are redeemed to cover up rain sheets or blankets.
  • Pick hooves and groom your horses
    Picking out the hooves is a necessary thing to do. As there may present rock or nail wedge in the horse hoof that will hinders the hoof health.
    As grooming means, taking care of skin. By regular check, any unknown injuries, wounds or skin problems can be readily diagnosed and treated faster.
  • Warm up riding
    Horses are the steady fast animals, they require regular muscle movements. Letting out your horses every day is the best idea.
    If raised at home, it may be hinderous, while in a stall you can ride around your barn or as much distance suitable.
    Taking horses out provides them fresh air, and a robust body.
  • Setting out feed for next meal
    After every early morning chores, it is suggested to set up a next meal schedule based on morning feeds, latter nutrition and adequate supplements.
  • Checking fencing/ interior damage for repair
    Looking for broken fencing or walls and fixing anything that needs to be repaired are laborious. Smoothening of broken or rough areas of fencing prevents cuts on horses. A little maintenance on a regular basis does a lot better.
  • Keen in hygiene maintenance to prevent potential threats
    Check out the surrounding for potential hazards and you yourself. Always clean the barn, disinfect the floor and maintain self hygiene and regularly wash hands while tending each horse.
  • Maintaining optimal feed supply and supplements (any medication)
    Always making sure of supplies in stock, and order for the supplements in need. Have a medication kit prepared for any unseen illness prospect.
  • Carrying out muck buckets for manure dump
    Basically horses produce about 50lbs of manure a day. It is very important to clean up the manure, since it attracts pests and flies so easily.  Keep the manure in a trash dumpster, or dump on the manure pile, or spread manure on pastures as it is composted.
  • Setting aside every tool to original position,
    After all work is done, keeping the respective tool in its own place, like setting clean accessories, shavel, broom, muck bucket on one rack while disinfectants, spray can in one and worn out horse cloth aside.
  • Final reassured view, latch the door- End of the day.
    Make sure to latch each and every doors, gates opened early. Seeing everything in their way, it is assured to leave for the day.

Is there any difference with your’s, rather than the above stated routine? Feel free to tell us how your barn life experience is and as always suggestions, comments are welcomed.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Lifestyle Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks
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Step by Step guide for Barn bedding

Here we depict a deliberate process on how to make bedding for your pretty horses step by step.

With this in mind, let us make a quick visit to a stall where bedding is made out of the owner’s preference as ground substrate cautionaries for equines.

One will always be spirited when one is making comfort for their beloved ones, if they are energetic, ever cheerful companions like Horses, then one will exhaust all his energy to get it best done. But here is the simplest, tactful and handful advice for all dedicated fellow horse lovers.  

Before we jump into the main topic let’s have a brief talk on maintaining the clean barn, the bedding laid within the clean barn will be more efficient.  Here are some right tools to make the job easier, and stall cleaning an exceptional good. 

  • Apple picker
  • Shavel
  • Broom
  • Absorbent Deodorizer
  • Sprinkle can
  • Muck Bucket or wheelbarrow

For one to be precise, stall cleaning  is much of saving time, money and  energy of caretakers’ , prioritising hygiene at most. Also lessening bedding consume.

Live threats are also resolved when maintaining stall hygiene diligently. 

Simple cleaning process

  • Toss clean, unsoiled bedding against the walls and into back corners.
  • Toss manure and dirty, wet bedding into the center of the stall or directly into a muck bucket or wheelbarrow.
  • Rake out center of the stall.
  • Sweep the center of the stall thoroughly and pick up any remaining dirty material with a shovel.
  • Sprinkle absorbent deodorizer on any wet spots.
  • Leave the empty stall to air dry with bedding pushed back as long as possible until you prepare new bedding. 

Swift and Tactful bedding process

Based on the layout of the stall, the bedding backpacks are brought into the stall. Most often one using rubber mat as rigid grounding of 3.6mm(12’) x 1.8mm(6’) bed size requires 3-5 bags per yard.

  • Put the bag packs in 2 cross lines, and fold the end hinge inboard to avoid further trouble of out flow.
  • Pouring cold water, it may take an hour to absorb for it to fluff all up. Else the warm water will do in 20mins.
  • Invert the bag upside down, break with force and crumble all.
  • Spread out up to the layer 5inches, the volume of spreading on your wish, as horses like fluffy to their feet.

It’s preferred to take inhabitants out for a walk while clean and bedding since it provides them with fresh air and sets one’s mind at peace.

CategoriesDairy Farm Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
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Top 4 Tips to improve Barn Hygiene

When it comes to dealing with the health and comfort of your barn living, you’ll always want to make the best of your job possible. That’s right, regardless of what lives in your barn, it is necessary to keep up with hygienic standards to stay clean and healthy. In fact, if a barn is unkempt, bacteria and viruses can be spread, resulting in sickening your dear animals.

Barns is a shelter provided for livestock such as cattle, horses and many other animals. As a Barn handler or frequent visitors, you are well aware of after effects of detrimental unhygienic culture. Those without proper care and regular tending are more prone to get sick and eventually leading to loss of life. A clean and tidy environment is the key source for robust life. So as to say, here are some of the highly recommended tips for your barners’ well-being.

Clean barn

The first and foremost thing in controlling disease break out is cleaning. Clean means free of dirt and organic matter such as manure. This means the removal of all manure and feed, followed by washing, scrubbing and rinsing, or pressure washing, all surfaces with hot water and detergent. Studies have shown that over 90% of bacteria are removed from surfaces that are thoroughly cleaned first. Thorough cleaning will remove most of the contamination and allow disinfectants to penetrate surfaces and kill microorganisms. This is followed by the use of a disinfectant according to label directions (included in the Compendium of Veterinary Products, available in your veterinarian’s office).

Disinfectant

A disinfectant is a chemical or substance that kills microorganisms and is applied to objects.  Follow the label directions before using, the “Active Ingredients” section on the container of disinfectant will identify the type of product. The product label will often state a dilution rate when being used either as a germicidal cleaner (killing microorganisms) or as a sanitizer (reducing the number of microorganisms). The minimum contact time (mentioned in label) is the time required to kill microorganisms. The kill time (10-15minutes) is affected by the presence of organic matter like bedding blood and pus, temperature, pH, hardness of water and concentration of disinfectant. So be sure of cleaning up before using disinfectants.

             It’s important not to simply focus on disinfecting surfaces in barns and barn areas (walls, doors, paddocks, fences, and gates) to curb disease spread; be sure to address hand tools and other farm equipment, vehicles, and trailers, too. Before you get started, relocate animals from the area you’re about to clean and disinfect. You might also need to remove all bedding. 

Make sure the area where you are working has adequate ventilation and turn off the power supply before soaking walls with water. Many disinfectants can be extremely irritating to human skin, eyes, and respiratory tracts. Always wear protective clothing, eye protection, and gloves when using any disinfectant product.

***Never mix different disinfectants together. Every approved disinfectant in the United States has a safety data sheet, available from the manufacturer and contains valuable information.

Personal Hygiene

The means of preventing the disease to spread by individual self-care is often termed as Personal Hygiene. Possibly barn handlers can be a reservoir or source of the disease agent while moving around from one barn to another; by carrying the agent on their clothing and shoes or animals themselves. The “shower in and shower out” followed in swine and poultry industries shows some pretty results.

In care, handlers should be dedicated with boots and clothing only used for the barn. If that is not possible, boots should be cleaned prior to entering the premises and freshly laundered clothing should be worn. A freshly laundered pair of coveralls would also suffice. Handlers should learn not to wear the same outfit outside anywhere, as there is the potential for them to carry the problem back.

Hand Washing

Hand washing should be facilitated around the barn/farm to encourage the frequent washing of hands. Research has shown that, as the access to a hand-washing facility increased, the hand-washing compliance increased (1). Thorough hand washing with soap is adequate in most cases. Antiseptic soaps (e.g., chlorhexidine) or iodophor shampoo/washes (e.g., Betadine scrub) or alcohol based hand gel may also be used and should be located at the sink in an easy dispensing container.

         Dispensers can be preferably attached to handlers’ belts or outside the doorway for easy access and frequent use before working for another barn, as they only require 15 seconds to dry. Hand washing is also important to prevent chemical contamination of the workplace when feeding medicines.

* Choose a product that doesn’t dry out the skin or cause skin irritation.In this stressful pandemic situation caused by Coronavirus, it’s always better to have knowledge at your tips to make the lives around much safer and healthier. It’s always that prevention is better than cure, take in interest towards a healthy living and strive through it.