giant-day-gecko-1CategoriesLizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding
by 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Giant Day Gecko

In the reptile trade, giant day geckos have grown highly popular. The likability of the species has been recognised by mainstream marketing, as evidenced by the now-famous Geico Gecko, which is considered to be modelled by a day gecko.

The giant day gecko has captivated reptile lovers due to its incredibly brilliant colours and appropriate size for a home terrarium. The crimson and blue blood day gecko, possibly the most beautiful lizards on the planet, has been developed by a select group of breeders. They are living works of art that are frequently displayed as a decorative focal point in a room or in a garden by their owners.

Appearance 

The head, back, and tail of giant day geckos are all crimson with red lines and spots. Their colours are bright, just like those of other day gecko species. However, agitated animals will take on darker tones of green.

The giant day gecko is the largest member of the day gecko family, as its title implies. Adult males can grow up to a foot in length. Females are usually 1 or 2 inches shorter than males. They have a thick body and are well-muscled. Giant day geckos can survive for a long time if properly cared for. They have been known to live for up to 20 years, but the usual lifespan is between 6 and 8 years.

Giant Day Gecko Lighting and Temperature

Giant day geckos are active during the day. The gecko’s vitamin D3 demand can be met by using a high-quality UVB light. To keep the temperature at 95 degrees Fahrenheit, use an incandescent light bulb with the necessary wattage. During the day, the temperature should be between 82 and 86 degrees, and at night, it should be between 75 and 82 degrees. This thermal gradient will be used by captive giant day geckos to thermoregulate to their ideal body temperature.

Humidity

All day geckos require a high level of humidity in their cages, ranging from 60% to 80%, depending on the species. To approve the humidity level, get a hygrometer for the humidity gauge. The use of live plants and an appropriate substrate, as well as regular misting of the tank, will assist maintain moisture. If you won’t be able to mist the cage during the day, put in an automatic mister or fogger that will add humidity at certain intervals.

Housing and Decoration

Although giant day geckos are adapted to a hot, humid climate, they require more heating to survive. Unlike other reptiles, they only require a basking temperature of roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit and can become stressed if the temperature rises too high. A tall glass enclosure with front and top ventilation is recommended to reduce overheating and ensure appropriate airflow.

The enclosure does not retain much heat, a temperature gradient will be achieved from one side of the enclosure to the other as long as the room it is put in is cool. Giant day geckos enjoy climbing and spend the majority of their time above the ground. A number of hard wood decorations should be firmly in place to allow multiple routes up and down the enclosure to help with this. Although giant day geckos aren’t very shy, it’s ideal to keep the enclosure partially covered.

Dew on leaves and flowers provides a lot of hydration for giant day geckos, so make sure there are plenty of huge leaves and plants (real or artificial) to gather water when the enclosure is sprayed.

Cleaning

To thrive, giant day geckos, like other pets, require a clean habitat. Every day, spot clean as much as possible, with a comprehensive clean every 4 weeks or so.

Remove your animal, all decorations, and all bedding from the enclosure before cleaning it. After the enclosure is clean, disinfect it using a reptile-friendly disinfectant. These disinfectants usually work rapidly and only need to be left on for around 30 seconds; instructions are usually printed on the disinfectant’s container. After the disinfectant has taken effect, wipe the surfaces clean with a paper towel. You may wish to repeat this step a second time to make sure the enclosure is completely clean.

Similarly, you may clean your decorations by spraying them with disinfectant and thoroughly rinsing them with water before drying them and putting them back into the enclosure.

Food and Diet

Giant Day geckos are omnivorous, which means they eat a wide variety of plants, live insects, and fruit.

Brown crickets are a good choice for the live insect element of this diet. They are highly nutritious, somewhat easy to hunt for the gecko, readily available, and excellent value for money. If your gecko won’t eat these, black bugs and locust are excellent substitutes. You might want to give your gecko a treat now and then, and you could do so by feeding waxworms, calci worms, or mealworms. We generally only serve grubs and worms once or twice a week because they are rather fattening. The crested gecko diet, crested gecko classic, grubs n fruit, and mango diet are all appropriate meals for this species. Along with the livefood, they can be fed 3-4 times per week.

You can provide a tiny water bowl in the enclosure as a backup. Although you may never see the gecko drink from it, it should be replaced on a daily basis.

Handling

Day Geckos should only be handled if absolutely necessary. Their skin breaks and can come off, which is a remarkable adaptation. They are able to avoid predators as a result of this. They will heal, but it will be uncomfortable for them, which we want to avoid as their caregivers. Babies are notorious for being flighty. Keep in mind that you’re a colossal predator to them. Slowly approach them and, if feasible, pick them up from below. Don’t grasp them, and don’t grab their tail because it will fall off. Day Geckos are lovely and amazing animals and pets to have, however they should not be handled.

Common Health Problems

Geckos are susceptible to a number of health issues that can be treated by an exotics veterinarian.

  • Skin disorders: Geckos, like most other reptiles, need to lose their skin in order to grow and stay healthy. Unclean circumstances, insufficient humidity, or parasites can trigger partial sheds.
  • Parasitic infections: Parasitic infections can cause weight loss, bloody stools, vomiting, and skin diseases, and they require treatment with an antiparasitic medicine.
  • Metabolic bone disease: This potentially fatal sickness is caused by a calcium and vitamin D deficiency, and it causes weaker bones. If identified early, it can be treated.

Giant Day Gecko Substrate Nature

Many substrates meant for rain forest terrariums, such as peat/soil mixtures, coconut fibre, and different bark chips, can be used successfully. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding, which is an ideal bedding option for your lovely pet. The sole stipulation is that the substrate particle size be large enough to prevent unintentional ingestion by the geckos when they are catching insect prey, as this could result in intestinal blockage.

Substrate Types

Coconut husk

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

·   Very natural look

·   Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

·   Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

·       May attract mites and bugs over time

Orchid bark

Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.

Advantages:

·   It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.

·   Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.

·   Increases water retention.

·       It’s sustainably sourced.

Disadvantages:

·   It will eventually break down.

·   It has an acidifying effect

Sandy soil mix

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Advantages:

·   Create a natural look.

·   Reptiles like to borrow it.

Disadvantages:

·   May create skin infection.

Conclusion

Giant Day Geckos are gorgeous, large geckos. They are diurnal, which means they are active at different times of the day. While these geckos make fascinating terrarium pets, they are fast-moving animals that should not be handled on a regular basis.
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

chameleon-posterCategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
by 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Chameleon

Chameleons are fascinating animals that only suit those who are totally into it. Chameleons are referred less for the beginner herpetologist because their care requirements are fairly particular and they are easily stressed. Many “true” chameleon species have native habitats ranging from Yemen and Saudi Arabia southward to Madagascar and areas of Eastern Africa.

Appearance and Behaviour

Young chameleons are often a dull gray/brown tint with the ability to shift shades. Around the age of five months, the adult colour and ability to shift colours emerge, and a variety of colours, including green, blue-green, turquoise, and black, are visible. Camouflage, temperature regulation, and communication with other chameleons are all benefits of changing hues. Chameleons, unlike anoles, change colours in response to a variety of stimuli, including excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other factors.

A stressed chameleon is usually dark brown to black, with brighter hues expressing a happy disposition.

Chameleons grab prey with their tongues. Chameleons can have tongues that are up to 1.5 times the length of their bodies, allowing them to grab insects from afar.

The veiled chameleon is one of the biggest chameleon species seen in captivity, with adult males reaching a total length of 2 feet and females reaching about 18 inches. Hatchling chameleons are about 3 to 4 inches long in total. A well-cared-for and robust male chameleon can survive for six to eight years as a pet. Females, on the other hand, have a lifespan of four to six years on average. Female chameleons produce sterile clutches of eggs even if they haven’t bred, similar to chickens. This consumes a lot of energy and eventually exhausts the females.

Basking Temperatures Requirements For Chameleon 

To thermoregulate and control their body temperature, chameleons require a temperature gradient. This effectively means that your enclosure must have both a hot and a cold side. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. As a result, your chameleon will be able to switch between the various temperatures as needed. If your cage is tall, your temperature gradient will be top to bottom rather than side to side.

A basking space with a temperature of 85-95 degrees should be available. The rest of the enclosure might be anything between 72 and 80 degrees. Temperatures can dip to as low as 65 degrees at night. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. A Reptile basking bulb is the simplest way to raise the temperature in your enclosure.

Lighting for Chameleon

Chameleons require UVA and UVB exposure. Additionally, allowing some exposure to natural sunshine through an open window will help keep chameleons happy and healthy because glass screens out virtually all of the necessary UV rays. UVB lights should be turned on for at least 10 hours every day.

Humidity level 

Chameleons spend the majority of their time in trees. They don’t drink from a motionless water bowl on the ground in the wild. Water your lizard at least twice a day using a spray bottle, usually for at least a minute each time, getting all the leaves and branches wet. Check to see if your pet is getting adequate water. It’s a symptom of dehydration if its eyes become sunken or less cone-shaped.

How do I set up a chameleon habitat?

Chameleons should be kept in separate enclosures. Choose a terrarium or screened enclosure that is at least 16 x 16 x 30 inches and is well-ventilated. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre or reptile bark, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Clean the floor material on a regular basis and replace it at least once a month. To elevate your pet no closer than 8 inches from the terrarium’s heat source, use rocks and real or artificial branches purchased from a store. The chameleon’s grip should be just slightly wider in diameter than the branches.

What do chameleons eat?

Feed your waxworms or chameleon crickets on a daily basis. Only give the chameleon as much as he or she can consume before the end of the day. Any leftovers should be discarded. Twice a week, dust insects with a calcium supplement. Once a day, chameleons should eat appropriate greens like collards or mustard greens. Provide only as much food as the Veiled Chameleon can consume in four hours, and then discard any leftovers.

Chameleons do not consume food from dishes. Instead, they hydrate themselves by licking water off their skin and the environment, thus keeping the habitat well-watered.

When to feed your chameleon? Keep the following in mind,

·   Water your plants by misting them 4 to 5 times each day and/or using a dripper.

·   Feed on a daily basis. Food should be available to children at all times.

·   Add a calcium supplement to your food once or twice a week, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice a week.

·   Vegetables that haven’t been consumed in the last 24 hours should be tossed.

Habitat Maintenance

At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat: Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3 percent bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water to remove any signs of bleach smell; properly dry the tank and furnishings before adding clean substrate.

Grooming & Hygiene

Chameleons shed their skin on a regular basis, so keep the humidity in the habitat at a comfortable level to allow for optimal shedding. Provide a shed box, such as a hide box filled with sphagnum moss, to aid in the shedding process.

Common Health Problems

Many chameleons are deficient in calcium and vitamin A, which is mainly caused by a poor diet. They’re also prone to mouth rot, commonly known as stomatitis, an infection that causes redness, copious saliva, and drooling around the mouth.

Metabolic bone disease is another common condition among chameleons. The bones of a chameleon become spongy due to this ailment, which can be fatal if not treated properly. They’ll appear sluggish and possibly lose their appetite.

It’s best to visit a veterinarian who specialises in reptiles if your pet appears ill or anxious, as with any other condition. Before consulting a veterinarian, try to stay away from home cures.

Handling

While some chameleons will tolerate some handling, the most will not. Excessive holding causes most people to get stressed. Chameleons prefer to be at the top of the food chain. Even those that are used to being handled will normally prefer to walk up your arm and to the top of your head. Some chameleons prefer to come out of their enclosure and walk around on a network of vines or “trees” that you have set up for them.

You’ll learn about your chameleon’s personality and what it will accept in terms of interaction and handling as you work with it. Have a good time and enjoy your lovely pet.

Interesting facts about Chameleon

·    There are more than 200 chameleon species.

·    Chameleons come in a wide range of sizes.

·    They use their toes and tails to get around.

·    Chameleons don’t change colors to camouflage themselves.

·    They have panoramic vision.

·    They have sticky, speedy tongues.

Substrate for your Chameleon

The bottom of a cage or enclosure is lined with substrate or bedding. Simple flat newspaper is the finest substrate for chameleons because it is inexpensive, recyclable, and easy to dispose of. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Avoid beddings with minute particles, such as sand, kitty litter, cedar, gravel, corn cob bedding, and beddings that hold extra moisture if a particulate or natural substrate is employed. Bacterial and fungal growth can be aided by moisture retained in bedding.

Substrate Types

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy way is to use newspapers, which are generally readily available in the home. To cover the entire floor area, use three or four layers of newspaper. It is advised that newspaper substrates be replaced on a daily basis. Spills should be cleared as quickly as possible. Despite their unsightly appearance, newspapers are a reasonably cost-effective solution.

Pros:

•       Easy to replace

•       Affordable

Cons:

•       Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Coconut Fiber

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

Besides Chameleons, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a good choice. Coconut is one of the most secure substrates accessible. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antimicrobial properties as well. It will capture and even kill bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.

Pros:

•       Very natural look

•       Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•       Affordable and good value

Cons:

•       May attract mites and bugs over time

Choosing Your Chameleon

When looking for a pet chameleon, search for one that has been captive bred. Wild-caught species are typically anxious, have a high parasite load, and have a hard time acclimating to captivity.

Chameleons aren’t the easiest or most difficult reptiles to care for, and starting with a stressed animal can only make things worse. Furthermore, the capture and transportation of chameleons, which is now more strictly regulated, resulted in the deaths of numerous animals. Many more animals perish in transit than ever make it to the pet store.

Observe a captive-bred chameleon once you’ve discovered one. They should be energetic and bright, with the ability to change colours and a well-fleshed body.

Different Species of Chameleon

Chameleons come in a variety of colours and are popular as pets. Here are a few possibilities to think about:

Veiled Chameleon

Veiled chameleons are hardy, striking-looking lizards with tall casque helmet-like structures on the tops of their heads. Both males and females have a casque that helps direct water that drips onto their heads into their mouths. Veiled chameleons have bands of green, yellow, and brown on their body that shift to different colours.
Small children and novice lizard keepers should avoid these chameleons as pets.

Jackson’s Chameleon

Jackson’s chameleons were native to East Africa, but in recent years have been introduced into California, Hawaii, and even Florida.
The length of a Jackson’s chameleon, including the tail, ranges from 9 to 13 inches. Males are often bigger than females. In captivity, they can survive for 5 to 10 years.

Panther Chameleon

Panther chameleons appear in a variety of spectacular colour morphs or phases, each of which is named after a geographical region in its native environment of Madagascar. Females have less colour variety, frequently orange or brownish, and a less striking “helmet” of ridges along the sides of the head than males, as well as being smaller.
Panther chameleons are a favourite among lizard owners because of their generally calm nature and the fact that they’re very easy to care for compared to other lizards.

green-iguana-posterCategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat
by 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Green Iguana

Green iguanas can be found throughout North and South America’s tropical and subtropical regions. Green iguanas are found throughout Mexico, Central America, and South America, including Paraguay and Argentina. Green iguanas can be found across the Lesser Antilles, as well as the Greater Antilles and Southern Florida in recent years. Green iguanas are an invasive species in the Greater Antilles and southern Florida. Iguanas are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets. They prefer sunbathing or being exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and they eat a diet rich in leafy greens and vegetables.

What We Like About Green Iguanas:

Pros:

  • In its native nations, this species is known as “palo gallino” or “bamboo chicken.”
  • On top of their heads, they have a “third eye,” a photosensory organ.
  • Face recognition is a capability of iguanas. This means they can figure out who looks after them.
  • Hatchlings can stay together for up to a year. Males in the family group frequently guard females, a trait rarely seen in other reptiles.

Cons:

  • Large, complicated enclosures with plenty of perches and room are required for iguanas.
  • This lizard has unique requirements for temperature and illumination.
  • It can take months for them to become accustomed to human interaction.
  • During breeding seasons, males may become more aggressive.

Appearance

green-iguana

The name implies that Green Iguanas are only green, although this is not the case. They can actually come in a range of hues. Red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, and orange iguanas are available. Their price usually rises as the colour gets scarcer, such as yellow, white, and black. Color is greatly influenced by location and selective breeding. They shed in chunks on a regular basis, just like other lizards. This process can be aided by regular soaking, but when sufficiently hydrated, they should be able to remove the skin on their own.

Green iguanas can grow to be 6 to 7 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds. Male green iguanas grow to be longer than female green iguanas, which rarely grow to be more than 5 feet long. Male green iguanas also have larger spikes on their backs and massive femoral pores on the underside of their back legs as they develop. Green iguanas can live for 15 to 20 years if properly cared for.

Handling

A Green Iguana can be docile and quiet in captivity if gentle socialisation is practised from a young age. If they haven’t been socialised or are in the presence of a stranger, they may exhibit defensive behaviours including hissing, biting, clawing, tail whipping, or stiffening. As hatchlings, green iguanas might be stressed. Excessive handling can exacerbate this, making it more difficult to socialise. Avoid handling your Iguana after they’ve been moved into their new enclosure. Instead, try moving the cage’s décor about to make them used to you. Start with feeding them with your hands to get a feel for how to handle them. Once they identify you with feeding, they will begin to trust you. You can begin managing trust once it has been established. For certain species, this process can take months.

Keep the following in mind when handling your Green Iguana:

·   Keep their face away from yours

·   Keep their tail pointing towards the ground behind you

·   Brace their weight by placing your hand between their forelimbs

Captive Environment

Adult Iguanas in captivity require a vivarium measuring at least 6′ x 5′ x 4′. If extra space is available, it is best. Most people will give a fully grown adult Iguana a room in their home. 12-14 hours each day, use full spectrum 5 percent UVB illumination. Provide a shady spot with access to a cooler spot. A heat gradient in their aquarium is preferred by all reptiles. A UVB bayonet lamp for basking at one end of the tank, with a heat mat under the same side, would be ideal. Hides, branches, reptile plants/leaves, and substrate like Coconut fiber are all excellent choices. Although personal preference is important, try to adhere to wooden hides and leaves, as these creatures’ dwell in trees, and sand for substrate and caves for hides are not appropriate for their natural habitat.

Cleaning & Misting

Since green iguanas consume a lot, they will leave a lot of waste in their cage. As a result, you should remove faeces and plant detritus with a substrate shovel on a daily basis. You should also inspect their faeces during this time. Make sure there’s a good mix of dark and light urates. An imbalance between the two, or their complete absence, can indicate digestive problems. You should clean your Iguana’s cage and replace the substrate every four weeks. If you’re using live plants, make sure to carefully remove them while preserving the root structure. Soap and water should be used to scrub all surfaces. Any removable décor should be soaked in a 10 percent bleach solution to destroy microorganisms.

Lighting & temperatures

Green iguanas are native to the tropics. You’ll want to provide them with a basking area as well as a chilly place where they can adjust their body temperature. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. Your iguana will be able to move back and forth between the different temperatures as needed. A 100–115-degree basking space should be supplied. The temperature in the rest of the enclosure can be in the 80–85-degree range. Temperatures can dip to as low as 75 degrees at night. Use a decent temperature gauge, such as a digital thermometer or a thermometer. For a baby iguana, one basking bulb is sufficient, but for an adult iguana, at least two bulbs should be placed next to each other to provide a bigger space for your iggy to heat up. Warming a large-bodied iguana takes a lot of energy. It’s great if it’s a little more spread out and not too hot in one spot.

Iguanas require UVB lighting in addition to heat to help them absorb calcium and produce vitamin D3. We must offer UVB light in the form of a special fluorescent bulb designed to create UVB rays because they do not receive natural sunlight in our homes. Heat rocks should not be used. Green iguanas have evolved a particular adaptation for basking, which allows them to absorb heat from above. They can get severely burned on a heat rock if they don’t notice it’s too hot until it’s too late.

Humidity and Water Requirements

Iguanas demand moderate to high humidity levels. Every other day, mist the vivarium. Additionally, provide a large, relatively deep-water dish for drinking and bathing. Place the water dish over half of the basking area to allow the heat to produce water vapour, which will increase humidity. As water stimulates the bowls of all reptiles, this will need to be cleaned out thoroughly every day. Also, check the water levels every time you are near your tank to make sure it hasn’t all evaporated. Also, make sure you use just lukewarm water. They might be shocked and possibly die if they come into contact with ice cold water.

Green Iguana Food

Raw natural foods purchased in a supermarket and professionally prepared “Iguana Food” can readily meet the dietary needs of green iguanas. Collard greens, turnip greens, dandelions, yellow squash, entire green beans, and other vegetables are great for your green iguana. We also give fruit on a weekly basis. Diarrhea can occur if a green iguana’s diet is high in fruit.

Small green iguanas require slightly different food preparation than adult green iguanas. When chopping raw veggies, make sure each piece is the right size for the green iguana to simply pick up and consume whole. Keep in mind that green iguanas can’t chew their food and must swallow it whole.

Green Iguana Substrate

A solid substrate must be used to avoid the possibility of your Green Iguana eating the substrate. Particulate substrates are not advised at all because they can create health issues for your Green Iguana if swallowed mistakenly. Coconut fiber, newspaper are recommended.

Coconut fiber

For most iguana owners, the coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. When the iguanas are young and in their large pen, coconut is a good substrate to utilise. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.

Pros:

•      Very natural look

•      Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•      Affordable and good value

Cons:

•      May attract mites and bugs over time

Newspaper

Another viable substrate choice is newspaper. Using newspapers, which are often easily available in the home, is a simple method. Three or four layers of newspaper should be used to cover the entire floor area. Daily replacement of newspaper substrates is recommended. Any spills should be cleaned up as soon as possible. Newspapers are a relatively cost-effective solution, despite their unappealing appearance.

Pros:

•      Easy to replace

•      Affordable

Cons:

•      Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection 

Artificial Grass Patch

For the large region that needs to be covered with iguanas, an artificial grass patch works nicely. It is more expensive than the other products, but the benefits may be worth it to you. Iguanas can safely eat the synthetic material because it is lead-free and non-toxic even when wet. It has a natural-looking pattern that is full and comfortable to the touch. You don’t have to do anything to get it up and running. Simply place it where you want it and plonk it down. The colour won’t leak when exposed to sunshine or the UVB lights your iguana need because it’s UV resistant. The grass has drainage pores in it, making it resistant to mould caused by standing water. This also makes cleanup a breeze. This grass will last for years if no severe harm occurs.

Pros:

•      Easy to use and clean

•      Soft, natural feel

•      Durable product to last years

•      Safe and resistant to mold

Cons:

•      High price

Fun facts about the green iguana

·   If they are trapped, they can detach their tails and grow a new one. That’s ingenious!

·   They have superb eyesight, which allows them to see prey or detect danger from afar.

·   Despite being classified as omnivores, they prefer a herbivorous diet.·   Green iguanas have razor-sharp teeth that can rip leaves from trees and puncture human skin.

pet-lizard-caring-bearded-dragonCategoriesLizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding
by 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Bearded Dragon

The Bearded Dragon is widely regarded as one of the best lizard pets of all time. Bearded dragon owners like watching their lizards, whether during a feeding frenzy when chasing insects or simply socialising with one another, because they are noted for being vigilant, hardy, and tame. Bearded dragons have unique behaviours, such as “arm waving,” in which a female or male lifts one of their front legs in the air and “waves” it as a submissive gesture. The lizard’s prickly “beard,” from which it gets its common name, can also be stretched, though tame captives rarely do so; dragons often do so when disturbed.

Behaviour

Bearded Dragons come in a wide range of colours. The dragon’s ‘beard’ is the skin in the throat region that can flare out when it feels threatened or territorial. The spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body give the body a flattened appearance. The Bearded Dragon’s head is wedge-shaped, and its tail is almost as long as its body. Males and females are difficult to discern among hatchlings and juveniles. Hatchlings are around 4 inches long, and huge adults can grow to be nearly 2 feet long. Sexual differences become more obvious as they get older. Males have larger heads and darker beards than females. Males are distinguished from females by their bigger femoral pores. The average captivity lifespan is six to ten years, while some specimens have been reported to live twice as long.

Humidity, Heating & Lighting

Ectotherms are bearded dragons. To feel comfortable, they’ll need both a consistent source of heat and a cooled environment. A thermometer and a hygrometer (a device that monitors humidity) should be placed at each end of the dragon’s housing. When the humidity level is between 20% and 30%, your bearded dragon will thrive. A little misting once a day is sufficient if the humidity is less than 20%. To allow the basking location to be the habitat’s warmest spot during the day (about 100 F or 38 C) while simultaneously giving suitable levels of ultraviolet light, make sure your heat source is aimed on the same spot as your UVB bulb. The cool end should be around 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 29 C). At night, turn off the lights. To keep the temperature between 68- and 74-degrees Fahrenheit, use a ceramic heat emitter or a night heat lamp (20 to 23 C). Bearded dragons, like you, are active during the day and sleep at night. They prefer to spend roughly 12 hours every day sunbathing under a UVA/UVB light, unlike you.

What do bearded dragons eat?

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, as they eat both animal and plant matter. They aren’t choosy eaters and eat with pleasure. Crickets and mealworms should be given a vitamin/mineral supplement as well as calcium. Before giving the insects to your lizards, dust them by placing them in a plastic bag with some of the powder and shaking the bag to lightly coat the insects.

Offer finely chopped veggies to bearded dragons such as romaine lettuce, zucchini, carrots, etc.), greens (collard, mustard, dandelion, etc. and fruit like kiwi, banana, mango, etc. Appropriate number of powders should be sprinkled on these foods and healthy, vitamin-rich items should be used. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it is not nutritious.  Commercially accessible meals from major reptile product manufacturers can also be given. These foods are specially created for bearded dragons and can be a great addition to your bearded dragon’s daily diet of fresh foods. Pinky mice are also appropriate for bearded dragons, and a variety of nutritionally balanced manufactured diets are available at pet stores. If you’re keeping your dragons on sand, serve food in a shallow dish rather than putting it on the substrate.

Water for bearded dragon

Use a water spray bottle to mist bearded dragons. They’ll lick water droplets off cage walls, rocks, and other surfaces, as well as themselves. Don’t go overboard; you don’t want their enclosure to grow too damp and humid. Provide water in a large enough dish for them to soak in. Be sure to keep this dish and the water in it clean.

How can I keep my bearded dragon healthy?

Bearded dragons are more gentle than other lizard species and will accept handling better. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, such as adults who have lived their whole lives in captivity.

For the first three or four days, avoid handling your new reptile. They require some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Aside from yearly annual physical exams, if you notice any of the symptoms in your reptile, it may be time to see a veterinarian like more hiding time than usual, less eating and drinking, possibly even weight loss, swollen joints, discoloured and shedding skin, abnormalities with the eyes, nose, or mouth, runny or abnormal droppings for more than two days, lack of droppings for extended periods of time.

All animals have the ability to spread infectious viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases to humans. Before and after contact with any pet or its habitat, thoroughly wash your hands with warm, soapy water. After coming into contact with a pet, its habitat, or aquarium water, adults should help children wash their hands.

Interesting facts about Bearded Dragons

·   Their name comes from their “beard” of scales around the neck.

·   They wave to acknowledge each other.

·   They have plenty of behaviours unique to their species.

·   They love to sunbathe.

·   They can run up to 9 miles per hour.

·   They love going on walks on a leash.

·   They enjoy swimming.

·   They can regrow their teeth.

·   They can sleep standing upright.

·   They can run on two legs.

·   They can change their skin color.

·   They make a hissing noise when defending territory.

·   They produce venom.

·   Bearded dragons don’t urinate liquid.

Substrate for Bearded Dragons

A high-quality substrate is critical for your bearded dragon’s health and comfort. The medium that makes up the flooring in an enclosure is referred to as the substrate. Create a more comfortable and natural environment for the bearded dragon by using a substrate material. There are many various types of substrates to choose from, some of which are superior to others.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Coconut husks for little one and chips for larger reptiles are available. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. You can use it straight away without hydrating the compacted chip blocks for high-humidity reptile, or you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces, and scatter it around the container for low-humid seeking reptile. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.

Calcium sand and Playground sand

Calcium sand and playground sand are two of the most common substrates for bearded dragons. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages bearded dragons’ natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.

Another alternative is to use playground sand, which is relatively affordable and easy to get around. These may easily be found in pet stores. To be safe, bake playground sand in the oven at 350°F for around 15 minutes to eliminate any potentially harmful germs or bacteria. Replace sand-based substrates once a month, and clean up any spills immediately.

Cage Carpet

Cage Carpet developed exclusively for reptile terrariums. It looks like the green or brown indoor/outdoor carpet that was once used to imitate grass. This is a low-cost, low-maintenance alternative that is very effective. It’s simple to clean, replace, and maintain, as well as being reasonably priced. It’s not the most appealing substrate, but it’s one of the most secure. Because there are no small loose particles for the bearded dragon to swallow, there is very minimal chance of impaction when using this substrate.

Cage carpet is simple to clean and remove. At least once a week, remove the carpet and clean it with warm water and a light soap. Before returning the carpet to the terrarium, make sure it has been fully rinsed and dried. Any leftover food or waste should be cleaned as quickly as possible. The carpet should be replaced every three months or as needed.

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy approach is to use newspapers, which is generally readily available in the home. Cover the entire floor area with three or four layers of newspaper. Newspaper substrates should be replaced on a daily basis. Clean up any spills right away or as quickly as possible. While not particularly appealing, newspapers are a very cost-effective option.

leopard gecko caringCategoriesLizards Care and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
by 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Leopard Gecko

New to reptile care! need help choosing your first lizard! Each lizard is unique in itself and in most cases has specific husbandry requirements. Some lizards are social and enjoyable, while others are shy and tense in human presence. Lizards will live a longer time, it is very important to choose a lizard that suits your lifestyle and husbandry capabilities.

Facts about lizards

Lizards are popular pets. They take up very little space and are easy to take care of. The natural habitat of lizards extends from tropical rainforests and jungles to arid and arid regions of the world. Many factors affect the health of lizards, such as heat, light, stress, nutrition and moisture. Therefore, it is very important to understand where and how lizards exist in nature. Please consult your pet dealer for the specific environmental requirements of your lizard.

Which lizards are good pets?

Many of the lizards on our list are good choices for most people, but not for all. When choosing a lizard, be sure to choose a species that suits your lifestyle, husbandry and handling skills.

  1. Crested- Leopard Geckos and Gargoyles are perfect for those who don’t want to set-up aquarium like structures and want a basic environment.
  2. Bearded Dragon, Leopard Gecko, Crested Gecko, and Blue Tongue Skink are great choices for lovers who wish to tame their pets.
  3. If you are looking for small lizards, Gold-Dust Day Gecko, Green Anole, Crested Gecko and Long-tailed Gecko are good choices. Tegu, Water Dragons, Monitor Lizards, Iguanas and Caiman lizards (Dracaena) are large reptiles.
  4. If you are uncomfortable with feeding pets live food, Uromastyx and Iguanas are almost pure herbivores.
  5. Chameleons and Iguanas are great ways to show off pets and are not interested in handling them.
  6. If there is no particular space to raise pets, then choose not Iguana nor the Green Anole which does allow you to pet them.
  7.  Although all the lizards on this list are excellent first pets, they all need to be sorted out carefully.
  8. Bearded dragons are one of the best choices for beginners to raise reptiles because of their friendly nature and their love toward handling.

Lizards can make exciting pets, but there are so many types that it is difficult to pick the right lizard for you. Some of the most popular lizards, such as Iguanas are not suitable for most pet owners. Choosing the right lizard will help you and your pet be happy for years to come.

Why choose LEOPARD GECKOS?

Leopard gecko is a very unique reptile, known for its amazing leopard appearance and huge, fat-laden tail. These small lizards will fit in your hand even when they grow up. They are some of the most popular lizard pets and good lizards for beginners. They make up good pets because they are gentle, easy to care for, and have many interesting colors and patterns. The gecko is definitely a cool lizard.

Gecko is a cute, docile and friendly lizard with many interesting behaviors and pleasant sounds. They adapt to handling very quickly and are easy to maintain for every beginner.

Significance

These are shy lizards with amazing predation and invasion abilities and camouflage themselves with leopard prints in dry desert rocks or high meadows. Because of their fat storing tails, these species can hide for a longer time, which can prevent them till their threat has been eliminated. They also shed more frequently than most lizards to prevent predators from smelling them. After all, the leopard gecko makes a very loud sound. It makes noises when it mates, defends itself, or when awakened by screaming, barking, or hissing.

Behavior

A common yellow or lilac leopard gecko with brown or black spots, is oftenly called a Spotted Cat. Some of the patterns include high yellow, yellow, patternless, albino, eclipse, giant, snow poppy, enigma, hypo, carrot tail, carrot head etc,. Leopard geckos have short claws and fatty tail, which peel off when lizards feel threatened. Under captivity, this gecko can live for 15-20 years.

Fun Facts

  • Almost all gecko sounds range from a soft squeak to the deafening hiss of African whistling gecko.
  • Many geckos do not have eyelids, but leopard geckos are not only translucent, but also movable, so they can blink and close their eyes while sleeping.
  • Like many lizards, the leopard gecko has a tail that can be easily broken when a predator catches it. This allows the gecko to escape when under attack. Unfortunately, it leaves a valuable source of food in. Tail used to store fat for lean periods.
  • They live a strict nocturnal lifestyle, away from the heat of the day, looking for food through holes and cracks at night.

How do you groom your pet lizard?

1 Habitat Maintenance

Clean and disinfect the habitat thoroughly at least once a week: place the gecko in a safe habitat; wipe the water tank and furnish with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water and remove all traces of bleach odor. Dry your water tank and furnish completely and add a clean substrate.

2 Care and Hygiene

Leopard geckos sheds regularly; ensure that the humidity in the habitat is high enough to allow adequate separation. To make it easier to shed off, provide a shed box, a leather case with peat moss, to help the shedding process.

3 Diet and Feeding schedule

Leopard Gecko’s balanced diet includes insects, crickets, mealworms, and wax worms, also using intestinal crickets. (freshly fed) 

Points to consider when feeding leopard geckos:

· Always provide fresh, clean and chlorine-free water.

· Feed every day.

· Sprinkle daily calcium supplements and multivitamin supplements on food once or twice a week.

4 Housing and Substrate

A sufficiently large area with safe coverage; it is recommended to use a 10-20 gallon water tank for the leopard gecko. Provide multiple hiding locations with non-toxic plants, branches, trunks and cork. Keep the humidity below 50%.

Temperature gradient of 95°F for very hot/sunbathing and 78-88°F at extremely cold. 10 to 12 hours of light are needed every day; because leopard geckos are nocturnal, they do not need ultraviolet light. Incandescent lamps can be used for sunbathing; you can use ceramic heaters or night lights at any time. Do not put two or more male geckos together or house different kinds of reptiles together.

The substrate must be absorbent and easy to clean and should not cause choking hazard or toxicity to your pet even if accidentally swallowed. The substrate should not be too abrasive to reduce the risk of pet injuries, and it should also be made of materials that will not retain or absorb too much moisture for desert species.

Coconut Husk

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

Coconut Husk or Coco Chip is one of the safest, organic and most popular choices for reptile bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and enriched fibrous material. It comes in two versions: Coconut Husk for smaller lizards and  Coco Chips for larger lizards. Its absorption can block unpleasant odors, retain moisture for a longer time and maintain a humid temperature. You can use it as needed. Wet the blocks, crush the pieces and put them in a container. Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable.

Carpet Liner

Carpet Liner is a sleek look and easy to clean substrate, making it an ideal habitat for your leopard gecko. Carpet Liner should be cleaned spotless and disinfected with reptile-specific cleaning solution once in a week. Maintain a healthy home for your pet.

Calci Sand

For Leopard Gecko, calcium sand helps imitate the natural desert environment and has many beneficial benefits, such as prompting natural burial behavior. Calcium sand is not only non-toxic, but also rich in calcium and vitamins. A small amount of oral administration can provide great health benefits, but it should not replace the intake of dietary supplements. You can scoop the waste along the sand all at once. 

General health Issue

Gastro-Intestinal Diseases:
Loose stools, crusty or stains in ventilated areas, and loss of appetite due to bacterial or parasitic infections. Consult your veterinarian.

Metabolic Bone/Vitamin Deficiency:
Insufficient calcium absorption due to insufficient UV-B light or insufficient calcium/vitamin D supplementation. If left untreated, this can lead to conditions characterized by deformities and weak bones. Limb swelling and lethargy. Please consult your veterinarian to make sure you have enough UVB and enough calcium/vitamin supplements.

Respiratory Diseases:
Shortness of breath and mucus in the nose and mouth. This may be caused by the environment being too cold or too humid. Please consult your veterinarian to ensure that your environment is at the right temperature.