CategoriesHorse Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding
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Choosing Best Bedding For Your Horse

Introduction

Have you ever considered different options for your horse’s bedding? Would you want to test with a less messy and simpler to keep in your barn and shed? Maybe you’re looking to improve your compost pile and want to discover how horse bedding affects that? 

It’s critical to choose the proper sort of stall bedding for your horse’s health, comfort, and safety. There are several options available, ranging from classic straw and wood shavings to modern alternatives like rubber mats, making it difficult for horse owners to choose. Coconut Bedding is one of the natural and safest bedding options you may choose.

Whatever type of bedding you choose, it must keep your horses warm, dry, secure, and healthy.

There are various equine materials available. Before choosing the bedding you have to check the criteria for selecting the finest horse bedding for you and your horse.  In prior to avoiding any mishaps in the near future, let us take primary measures before preparing them a bed. 

Must read top 9 measures to be taken before laying bedding for your affectionate equines.

Here’s Common Bedding Options

Coconut Bedding

Coco bedding is made of 100% natural, biodegradable and environment-friendly, coconut coir husks, that far outperforms conventional material. Derived from coconut shells, this renewable material is soft and spongy. The fibrous material acts as insulators and offers a cushion- like comfort. The powdery peat material is a super absorbent and absorbs all the urine, lasts longer and emits less odor. We recommend EcoBed Equine Bedding is a highly comfortable, eco-friendly bedding. EcoBed is Safe, light weight, non-dust, allergen free, 100% naturally driven bed from finely Cultured Coconut Husk.

Advantages:

  • Holds up to five times of its weight in urine.
  • Cellulose structure traps the stringy ammonia odor in the urinated bed.
  • Repels flies, even when the bedding is soiled.
  • Low hoofed impact, imparts spongy-cushion bedding.
  • Used bedding can be composted and reused in garden and landscaping.

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Straw

For mares and young foals, clean straw is ideal. Some horses may consume straw bedding, which can be an issue if your horse is on a diet. Oat straw is not only more absorbent than wheat straw, but it is also more delicious. Any straw you use should be free of mould and dust. Saturated straw is difficult to clear out, and separating the manure from the clean bedding can take a long time, slowing down the cleaning process. A box stall should be appropriately bedded with two bales. During cold weather or in preparation for foaling, you may wish to add more.

Advantages:

  • It is inexpensive.
  • It looks great and gives off a natural vibe.
  • It decomposes into wonderful garden manure.

Disadvantages:

  • It causes allergic reactions in certain horses.
  • Some horses eat this bedding, which is not good.

Wood Pallets

Wood pellets are wood shavings that have been compressed and dried. Cleaning stalls using wood pellets, which break down into fluffy, absorbent wood shavings, is simpler for many individuals, and there is less waste bedding. The cost may be higher at first than wood shavings, but because there is so much less waste, the cost may be balanced out. The pellets appear hard and unappealing, yet a squirt from the water hose transforms them into fluffy bedding.

Advantages:

  • This type of bedding has a high absorption capacity.
  • Composting without dust is faster than shavings or straw.
  • It is completely dust free and eco-friendly bedding option.

Disadvantages:

  • When in pellet form, it might be slick.
  • When putting down the bedding, you’ll need to add water, which takes time.

Shredded Paper

Shredded paper is an excellent option if your horse chews his bedding. It isn’t dusty, however it is possible that the inks will cause skin allergies. Because paper is so absorbent, it will easily wick away moisture. It also decomposes fast, allowing your manure mound to decrease as it dries and decomposes.

Advantages:

  • It is affordable.
  • Dust-free and unpalatable – an excellent alternative for horses with allergies.
  • It creates a warm bed.
  • Wrapped bales are simple to handle and store since they are clean.

Disadvantages:

  • It’s important to keep an eye on the bed to make sure it doesn’t get too wet.
  • Easily blown around, resulting in an unkempt appearance.

Rubber Mats

Horses sleep on hard surfaces in their natural form and do not require a soft and comfortable bed, making rubber mats perfect for use in stables. They can save time and effort while mucking out by providing a strong yet comfortable surface with good absorption and cushioning. Rubber mats can be used alone or in conjunction with other bedding. Rubber mats, when used on their own, are unsightly and offer little to prevent a horse from getting cast. We recommend Stable Mats, They are of 100% high quality rubber mats obtained by re-vulcanization and recycling.

Advantages:

  • Protects against capped hocks, etc. by providing a comparably soft non-slip foundation.
  • It’s simple to clean up and can be hosed down.

Disadvantages:

  • It’s not aesthetically pleasing.
  • In the winter, it might look chilly and dry slowly.

Hemp

Hemp is non-allergenic, biodegradable, and dust-free than traditional beddings, thereby enhancing stable conditions and preserving horses’ and owners’ respiratory systems. They also claim to have greater odour absorption, faster breakdown, and more absorbency. Hemp’s greater thermal rating may be beneficial to those who live in colder regions, since it keeps horses warm while they sleep.

Advantages:

  • It is high absorbent and dust free material.
  • Lightweight and simple to muck out.
  • It quickly decomposes into fine compost.
  • Wrapped bales are simple to handle and store since they are clean.

Disadvantages:

  • Relatively Expensive

Wood Shavings

Shavings are a popular bedding option for horses. To pull dung out of the shavings without removing too much bedding, a special manure fork is required. As you spread the bedding, keep an eye out for wood splinters. Black walnut shavings can create serious issues, therefore softwood shavings are preferred. If you’re buying shavings from a local woodworker or timber mill, make sure you know what kind you’re getting. In a stall, about four inches of bedding makes it pleasant. You can use less stall mats if you utilise them.

Advantages:

  • It’s readily available in local store.
  • Easy to handle and store.

Disadvantages:

  • This bedding material is difficult to dispose.
  • Wet shavings causes ammonia.

Conclusion

Getting the appropriate bedding may be a trial and error affair. If you don’t like one type of bedding and want to try something else. Coconut Bedding is highly comfortable, eco-friendly bedding and it’s completely safe for your horse. The modern Stable Mats are 100% high quality rubber mats and non–slippery, non-abrasive, yielding a stable footing for the living. Whatever bedding you pick for your horses, it must keep them warm, dry, safe, and healthy.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet Turtle Caring Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Box Turtle

Appearance

The box turtle has a tiny head and a hooked upper jaw, making it an intriguing pet with a distinct personality. Depending on the species or subspecies, their colour varies. Some have a lemon-yellow or olive-yellow head, and their shells range in colour from brown to olive-brown to black. Some have a large dark patch on their underside as well as black triangular markings with a brown or olive triangle behind the eye.

Their spines may be red or light brown in colour, or they may have three longitudinal stripes. By the time they reach the age of 15, box turtles should have reached the end of their growth cycle. Adults are around five inches tall and weigh 400 grammes on average. Box turtles live for 30 to 50 years on average, but some have lived up to 100 years!

Behaviour

Box turtles are not intended as pets for young children or inexperienced pet owners. This is owing to their extensive care requirements and vulnerability to stress, both of which can negatively impact a turtle’s health. You can expect to spend at least a week cleaning and maintaining their enclosure, as well as feeding them every day or two.

Box turtles prefer to remain in a consistent environment and avoid being touched by humans. They don’t usually bite, however nervousness caused by overhandling can cause them to nip someone. Furthermore, they can contain salmonella, so wash your hands carefully after handling your turtle or anything in its habitat. Most box turtles will remember their keepers once they’ve become accustomed to their surroundings, even following a person’s motions from inside their cage or asking for food.

Temperature Requirements

Daytime temperatures for common box turtles should be at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature might dip between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. To assist manage the temperature, use a basking lamp, ceramic heat emitters, or other heat sources.

For box turtles to digest the calcium in their meals, UVB illumination is required. They may get metabolic bone disease and possibly die if they don’t get it. 2 Box turtles require around 12 hours of UVB illumination each day, which may be obtained from natural sunshine or a UVB lamp. To simulate a natural day-night cycle indoors, turn off the lamp at night.

Humidity

A humidity level of approximately 60% is ideal for box turtles. This may be achieved by misting on a regular basis and utilising a substrate that maintains moisture.

Housing

A wooden vivarium is required for a typical box turtle’s enclosure. This is because wood is a great heat insulator, thus a wooden vivarium will make it simpler to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. The wooden vivarium should be well ventilated to allow for enough air flow in and out of the enclosure, as well as sealed to keep moisture and humidity out.

For a juvenile, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long, and for an adult, 1150mm (46″) long. The cage must be heated at one end and cold at the other, with enough space between them for the temperature to decrease.

Diet 

Vegetation, turtle food, live feeder insects, and flesh make up a box turtle’s diet. Dropping crickets or locusts into the pool for the live food component because they are both healthy and simple to digest. Snails and worms are common additions to the meat component of the diet.

Dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette, and bell peppers are all suitable for the vegetation component of the diet. Leafy greens should make up the majority of the vegetation. Supplements can be dusted on the salad, but we wouldn’t dust the turtle food, meat, or live food since we don’t want to contaminate the turtle’s pool water.

Handling

It is critical for both you and your turtle to maintain excellent cleanliness. So, before you start touching anything, wash your hands.

  • Before you decide to handle them, make sure they aren’t resting or feeding, and consider whether or not they are in the mating season.
  • Pick up your turtle with both hands from both sides of its shell.
  • Don’t squeeze your turtle, but make sure it doesn’t squirm out of your hands while it’s flying.
  • Picking up your turtle by the limbs or turning it fast is not a good idea.
  • Even though turtles are gentle, they do best when handled just for examinations and cleaning.

Substrate Nature

The substance that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s habitat is called substrate. It aids in humidity retention and satisfies the turtle’s need to burrow. Furthermore, it can give the enclosure a more natural appearance and feel. As a result, try to choose a substrate that closely resembles the turtle’s native habitat. Chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss are popular among gardeners. Wood chips help your turtle to burrow, so make sure you layer it at least 4 inches deep. It is not recommended to utilise soil or gravel since they might induce intestinal obstruction if consumed.The best choice of substrate is Coconut Husk. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell

Gravel

Gravel is one of the simplest and most cheap turtle tank substrate alternatives. It comes in a variety of hues. It’s simple to use, turtle-safe, and won’t alter the pH or chemistry of your tank’s water.

Advantages:

  • Colored natural materials with a non-toxic finishing
  • Turtles can tolerate a fine texture.
  • The pH or chemistry of tank water will not be affected.

Disadvantages:

  • Rough edges may be seen on certain stones.
  • Blue substrates may not appear as natural as other colours.

Conclusion

Box turtles have extremely particular needs that necessitate a rigorous husbandry routine. After a few weeks, though, this maintenance becomes very easy for first-time owners. Many turtle owners establish a lifelong relationship with their pets since they are docile and cheap.

giant-day-gecko-1CategoriesLizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Giant Day Gecko

In the reptile trade, giant day geckos have grown highly popular. The likability of the species has been recognised by mainstream marketing, as evidenced by the now-famous Geico Gecko, which is considered to be modelled by a day gecko.

The giant day gecko has captivated reptile lovers due to its incredibly brilliant colours and appropriate size for a home terrarium. The crimson and blue blood day gecko, possibly the most beautiful lizards on the planet, has been developed by a select group of breeders. They are living works of art that are frequently displayed as a decorative focal point in a room or in a garden by their owners.

Appearance 

The head, back, and tail of giant day geckos are all crimson with red lines and spots. Their colours are bright, just like those of other day gecko species. However, agitated animals will take on darker tones of green.

The giant day gecko is the largest member of the day gecko family, as its title implies. Adult males can grow up to a foot in length. Females are usually 1 or 2 inches shorter than males. They have a thick body and are well-muscled. Giant day geckos can survive for a long time if properly cared for. They have been known to live for up to 20 years, but the usual lifespan is between 6 and 8 years.

Giant Day Gecko Lighting and Temperature

Giant day geckos are active during the day. The gecko’s vitamin D3 demand can be met by using a high-quality UVB light. To keep the temperature at 95 degrees Fahrenheit, use an incandescent light bulb with the necessary wattage. During the day, the temperature should be between 82 and 86 degrees, and at night, it should be between 75 and 82 degrees. This thermal gradient will be used by captive giant day geckos to thermoregulate to their ideal body temperature.

Humidity

All day geckos require a high level of humidity in their cages, ranging from 60% to 80%, depending on the species. To approve the humidity level, get a hygrometer for the humidity gauge. The use of live plants and an appropriate substrate, as well as regular misting of the tank, will assist maintain moisture. If you won’t be able to mist the cage during the day, put in an automatic mister or fogger that will add humidity at certain intervals.

Housing and Decoration

Although giant day geckos are adapted to a hot, humid climate, they require more heating to survive. Unlike other reptiles, they only require a basking temperature of roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit and can become stressed if the temperature rises too high. A tall glass enclosure with front and top ventilation is recommended to reduce overheating and ensure appropriate airflow.

The enclosure does not retain much heat, a temperature gradient will be achieved from one side of the enclosure to the other as long as the room it is put in is cool. Giant day geckos enjoy climbing and spend the majority of their time above the ground. A number of hard wood decorations should be firmly in place to allow multiple routes up and down the enclosure to help with this. Although giant day geckos aren’t very shy, it’s ideal to keep the enclosure partially covered.

Dew on leaves and flowers provides a lot of hydration for giant day geckos, so make sure there are plenty of huge leaves and plants (real or artificial) to gather water when the enclosure is sprayed.

Cleaning

To thrive, giant day geckos, like other pets, require a clean habitat. Every day, spot clean as much as possible, with a comprehensive clean every 4 weeks or so.

Remove your animal, all decorations, and all bedding from the enclosure before cleaning it. After the enclosure is clean, disinfect it using a reptile-friendly disinfectant. These disinfectants usually work rapidly and only need to be left on for around 30 seconds; instructions are usually printed on the disinfectant’s container. After the disinfectant has taken effect, wipe the surfaces clean with a paper towel. You may wish to repeat this step a second time to make sure the enclosure is completely clean.

Similarly, you may clean your decorations by spraying them with disinfectant and thoroughly rinsing them with water before drying them and putting them back into the enclosure.

Food and Diet

Giant Day geckos are omnivorous, which means they eat a wide variety of plants, live insects, and fruit.

Brown crickets are a good choice for the live insect element of this diet. They are highly nutritious, somewhat easy to hunt for the gecko, readily available, and excellent value for money. If your gecko won’t eat these, black bugs and locust are excellent substitutes. You might want to give your gecko a treat now and then, and you could do so by feeding waxworms, calci worms, or mealworms. We generally only serve grubs and worms once or twice a week because they are rather fattening. The crested gecko diet, crested gecko classic, grubs n fruit, and mango diet are all appropriate meals for this species. Along with the livefood, they can be fed 3-4 times per week.

You can provide a tiny water bowl in the enclosure as a backup. Although you may never see the gecko drink from it, it should be replaced on a daily basis.

Handling

Day Geckos should only be handled if absolutely necessary. Their skin breaks and can come off, which is a remarkable adaptation. They are able to avoid predators as a result of this. They will heal, but it will be uncomfortable for them, which we want to avoid as their caregivers. Babies are notorious for being flighty. Keep in mind that you’re a colossal predator to them. Slowly approach them and, if feasible, pick them up from below. Don’t grasp them, and don’t grab their tail because it will fall off. Day Geckos are lovely and amazing animals and pets to have, however they should not be handled.

Common Health Problems

Geckos are susceptible to a number of health issues that can be treated by an exotics veterinarian.

  • Skin disorders: Geckos, like most other reptiles, need to lose their skin in order to grow and stay healthy. Unclean circumstances, insufficient humidity, or parasites can trigger partial sheds.
  • Parasitic infections: Parasitic infections can cause weight loss, bloody stools, vomiting, and skin diseases, and they require treatment with an antiparasitic medicine.
  • Metabolic bone disease: This potentially fatal sickness is caused by a calcium and vitamin D deficiency, and it causes weaker bones. If identified early, it can be treated.

Giant Day Gecko Substrate Nature

Many substrates meant for rain forest terrariums, such as peat/soil mixtures, coconut fibre, and different bark chips, can be used successfully. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding, which is an ideal bedding option for your lovely pet. The sole stipulation is that the substrate particle size be large enough to prevent unintentional ingestion by the geckos when they are catching insect prey, as this could result in intestinal blockage.

Substrate Types

Coconut husk

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

·   Very natural look

·   Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

·   Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

·       May attract mites and bugs over time

Orchid bark

Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.

Advantages:

·   It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.

·   Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.

·   Increases water retention.

·       It’s sustainably sourced.

Disadvantages:

·   It will eventually break down.

·   It has an acidifying effect

Sandy soil mix

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Advantages:

·   Create a natural look.

·   Reptiles like to borrow it.

Disadvantages:

·   May create skin infection.

Conclusion

Giant Day Geckos are gorgeous, large geckos. They are diurnal, which means they are active at different times of the day. While these geckos make fascinating terrarium pets, they are fast-moving animals that should not be handled on a regular basis.
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

chameleon-posterCategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Chameleon

Chameleons are fascinating animals that only suit those who are totally into it. Chameleons are referred less for the beginner herpetologist because their care requirements are fairly particular and they are easily stressed. Many “true” chameleon species have native habitats ranging from Yemen and Saudi Arabia southward to Madagascar and areas of Eastern Africa.

Appearance and Behaviour

Young chameleons are often a dull gray/brown tint with the ability to shift shades. Around the age of five months, the adult colour and ability to shift colours emerge, and a variety of colours, including green, blue-green, turquoise, and black, are visible. Camouflage, temperature regulation, and communication with other chameleons are all benefits of changing hues. Chameleons, unlike anoles, change colours in response to a variety of stimuli, including excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other factors.

A stressed chameleon is usually dark brown to black, with brighter hues expressing a happy disposition.

Chameleons grab prey with their tongues. Chameleons can have tongues that are up to 1.5 times the length of their bodies, allowing them to grab insects from afar.

The veiled chameleon is one of the biggest chameleon species seen in captivity, with adult males reaching a total length of 2 feet and females reaching about 18 inches. Hatchling chameleons are about 3 to 4 inches long in total. A well-cared-for and robust male chameleon can survive for six to eight years as a pet. Females, on the other hand, have a lifespan of four to six years on average. Female chameleons produce sterile clutches of eggs even if they haven’t bred, similar to chickens. This consumes a lot of energy and eventually exhausts the females.

Basking Temperatures Requirements For Chameleon 

To thermoregulate and control their body temperature, chameleons require a temperature gradient. This effectively means that your enclosure must have both a hot and a cold side. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. As a result, your chameleon will be able to switch between the various temperatures as needed. If your cage is tall, your temperature gradient will be top to bottom rather than side to side.

A basking space with a temperature of 85-95 degrees should be available. The rest of the enclosure might be anything between 72 and 80 degrees. Temperatures can dip to as low as 65 degrees at night. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. A Reptile basking bulb is the simplest way to raise the temperature in your enclosure.

Lighting for Chameleon

Chameleons require UVA and UVB exposure. Additionally, allowing some exposure to natural sunshine through an open window will help keep chameleons happy and healthy because glass screens out virtually all of the necessary UV rays. UVB lights should be turned on for at least 10 hours every day.

Humidity level 

Chameleons spend the majority of their time in trees. They don’t drink from a motionless water bowl on the ground in the wild. Water your lizard at least twice a day using a spray bottle, usually for at least a minute each time, getting all the leaves and branches wet. Check to see if your pet is getting adequate water. It’s a symptom of dehydration if its eyes become sunken or less cone-shaped.

How do I set up a chameleon habitat?

Chameleons should be kept in separate enclosures. Choose a terrarium or screened enclosure that is at least 16 x 16 x 30 inches and is well-ventilated. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre or reptile bark, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Clean the floor material on a regular basis and replace it at least once a month. To elevate your pet no closer than 8 inches from the terrarium’s heat source, use rocks and real or artificial branches purchased from a store. The chameleon’s grip should be just slightly wider in diameter than the branches.

What do chameleons eat?

Feed your waxworms or chameleon crickets on a daily basis. Only give the chameleon as much as he or she can consume before the end of the day. Any leftovers should be discarded. Twice a week, dust insects with a calcium supplement. Once a day, chameleons should eat appropriate greens like collards or mustard greens. Provide only as much food as the Veiled Chameleon can consume in four hours, and then discard any leftovers.

Chameleons do not consume food from dishes. Instead, they hydrate themselves by licking water off their skin and the environment, thus keeping the habitat well-watered.

When to feed your chameleon? Keep the following in mind,

·   Water your plants by misting them 4 to 5 times each day and/or using a dripper.

·   Feed on a daily basis. Food should be available to children at all times.

·   Add a calcium supplement to your food once or twice a week, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice a week.

·   Vegetables that haven’t been consumed in the last 24 hours should be tossed.

Habitat Maintenance

At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat: Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3 percent bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water to remove any signs of bleach smell; properly dry the tank and furnishings before adding clean substrate.

Grooming & Hygiene

Chameleons shed their skin on a regular basis, so keep the humidity in the habitat at a comfortable level to allow for optimal shedding. Provide a shed box, such as a hide box filled with sphagnum moss, to aid in the shedding process.

Common Health Problems

Many chameleons are deficient in calcium and vitamin A, which is mainly caused by a poor diet. They’re also prone to mouth rot, commonly known as stomatitis, an infection that causes redness, copious saliva, and drooling around the mouth.

Metabolic bone disease is another common condition among chameleons. The bones of a chameleon become spongy due to this ailment, which can be fatal if not treated properly. They’ll appear sluggish and possibly lose their appetite.

It’s best to visit a veterinarian who specialises in reptiles if your pet appears ill or anxious, as with any other condition. Before consulting a veterinarian, try to stay away from home cures.

Handling

While some chameleons will tolerate some handling, the most will not. Excessive holding causes most people to get stressed. Chameleons prefer to be at the top of the food chain. Even those that are used to being handled will normally prefer to walk up your arm and to the top of your head. Some chameleons prefer to come out of their enclosure and walk around on a network of vines or “trees” that you have set up for them.

You’ll learn about your chameleon’s personality and what it will accept in terms of interaction and handling as you work with it. Have a good time and enjoy your lovely pet.

Interesting facts about Chameleon

·    There are more than 200 chameleon species.

·    Chameleons come in a wide range of sizes.

·    They use their toes and tails to get around.

·    Chameleons don’t change colors to camouflage themselves.

·    They have panoramic vision.

·    They have sticky, speedy tongues.

Substrate for your Chameleon

The bottom of a cage or enclosure is lined with substrate or bedding. Simple flat newspaper is the finest substrate for chameleons because it is inexpensive, recyclable, and easy to dispose of. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Avoid beddings with minute particles, such as sand, kitty litter, cedar, gravel, corn cob bedding, and beddings that hold extra moisture if a particulate or natural substrate is employed. Bacterial and fungal growth can be aided by moisture retained in bedding.

Substrate Types

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy way is to use newspapers, which are generally readily available in the home. To cover the entire floor area, use three or four layers of newspaper. It is advised that newspaper substrates be replaced on a daily basis. Spills should be cleared as quickly as possible. Despite their unsightly appearance, newspapers are a reasonably cost-effective solution.

Pros:

•       Easy to replace

•       Affordable

Cons:

•       Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Coconut Fiber

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

Besides Chameleons, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a good choice. Coconut is one of the most secure substrates accessible. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antimicrobial properties as well. It will capture and even kill bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.

Pros:

•       Very natural look

•       Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•       Affordable and good value

Cons:

•       May attract mites and bugs over time

Choosing Your Chameleon

When looking for a pet chameleon, search for one that has been captive bred. Wild-caught species are typically anxious, have a high parasite load, and have a hard time acclimating to captivity.

Chameleons aren’t the easiest or most difficult reptiles to care for, and starting with a stressed animal can only make things worse. Furthermore, the capture and transportation of chameleons, which is now more strictly regulated, resulted in the deaths of numerous animals. Many more animals perish in transit than ever make it to the pet store.

Observe a captive-bred chameleon once you’ve discovered one. They should be energetic and bright, with the ability to change colours and a well-fleshed body.

Different Species of Chameleon

Chameleons come in a variety of colours and are popular as pets. Here are a few possibilities to think about:

Veiled Chameleon

Veiled chameleons are hardy, striking-looking lizards with tall casque helmet-like structures on the tops of their heads. Both males and females have a casque that helps direct water that drips onto their heads into their mouths. Veiled chameleons have bands of green, yellow, and brown on their body that shift to different colours.
Small children and novice lizard keepers should avoid these chameleons as pets.

Jackson’s Chameleon

Jackson’s chameleons were native to East Africa, but in recent years have been introduced into California, Hawaii, and even Florida.
The length of a Jackson’s chameleon, including the tail, ranges from 9 to 13 inches. Males are often bigger than females. In captivity, they can survive for 5 to 10 years.

Panther Chameleon

Panther chameleons appear in a variety of spectacular colour morphs or phases, each of which is named after a geographical region in its native environment of Madagascar. Females have less colour variety, frequently orange or brownish, and a less striking “helmet” of ridges along the sides of the head than males, as well as being smaller.
Panther chameleons are a favourite among lizard owners because of their generally calm nature and the fact that they’re very easy to care for compared to other lizards.

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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Bearded Dragon

The Bearded Dragon is widely regarded as one of the best lizard pets of all time. Bearded dragon owners like watching their lizards, whether during a feeding frenzy when chasing insects or simply socialising with one another, because they are noted for being vigilant, hardy, and tame. Bearded dragons have unique behaviours, such as “arm waving,” in which a female or male lifts one of their front legs in the air and “waves” it as a submissive gesture. The lizard’s prickly “beard,” from which it gets its common name, can also be stretched, though tame captives rarely do so; dragons often do so when disturbed.

Behaviour

Bearded Dragons come in a wide range of colours. The dragon’s ‘beard’ is the skin in the throat region that can flare out when it feels threatened or territorial. The spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body give the body a flattened appearance. The Bearded Dragon’s head is wedge-shaped, and its tail is almost as long as its body. Males and females are difficult to discern among hatchlings and juveniles. Hatchlings are around 4 inches long, and huge adults can grow to be nearly 2 feet long. Sexual differences become more obvious as they get older. Males have larger heads and darker beards than females. Males are distinguished from females by their bigger femoral pores. The average captivity lifespan is six to ten years, while some specimens have been reported to live twice as long.

Humidity, Heating & Lighting

Ectotherms are bearded dragons. To feel comfortable, they’ll need both a consistent source of heat and a cooled environment. A thermometer and a hygrometer (a device that monitors humidity) should be placed at each end of the dragon’s housing. When the humidity level is between 20% and 30%, your bearded dragon will thrive. A little misting once a day is sufficient if the humidity is less than 20%. To allow the basking location to be the habitat’s warmest spot during the day (about 100 F or 38 C) while simultaneously giving suitable levels of ultraviolet light, make sure your heat source is aimed on the same spot as your UVB bulb. The cool end should be around 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 29 C). At night, turn off the lights. To keep the temperature between 68- and 74-degrees Fahrenheit, use a ceramic heat emitter or a night heat lamp (20 to 23 C). Bearded dragons, like you, are active during the day and sleep at night. They prefer to spend roughly 12 hours every day sunbathing under a UVA/UVB light, unlike you.

What do bearded dragons eat?

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, as they eat both animal and plant matter. They aren’t choosy eaters and eat with pleasure. Crickets and mealworms should be given a vitamin/mineral supplement as well as calcium. Before giving the insects to your lizards, dust them by placing them in a plastic bag with some of the powder and shaking the bag to lightly coat the insects.

Offer finely chopped veggies to bearded dragons such as romaine lettuce, zucchini, carrots, etc.), greens (collard, mustard, dandelion, etc. and fruit like kiwi, banana, mango, etc. Appropriate number of powders should be sprinkled on these foods and healthy, vitamin-rich items should be used. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it is not nutritious.  Commercially accessible meals from major reptile product manufacturers can also be given. These foods are specially created for bearded dragons and can be a great addition to your bearded dragon’s daily diet of fresh foods. Pinky mice are also appropriate for bearded dragons, and a variety of nutritionally balanced manufactured diets are available at pet stores. If you’re keeping your dragons on sand, serve food in a shallow dish rather than putting it on the substrate.

Water for bearded dragon

Use a water spray bottle to mist bearded dragons. They’ll lick water droplets off cage walls, rocks, and other surfaces, as well as themselves. Don’t go overboard; you don’t want their enclosure to grow too damp and humid. Provide water in a large enough dish for them to soak in. Be sure to keep this dish and the water in it clean.

How can I keep my bearded dragon healthy?

Bearded dragons are more gentle than other lizard species and will accept handling better. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, such as adults who have lived their whole lives in captivity.

For the first three or four days, avoid handling your new reptile. They require some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Aside from yearly annual physical exams, if you notice any of the symptoms in your reptile, it may be time to see a veterinarian like more hiding time than usual, less eating and drinking, possibly even weight loss, swollen joints, discoloured and shedding skin, abnormalities with the eyes, nose, or mouth, runny or abnormal droppings for more than two days, lack of droppings for extended periods of time.

All animals have the ability to spread infectious viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases to humans. Before and after contact with any pet or its habitat, thoroughly wash your hands with warm, soapy water. After coming into contact with a pet, its habitat, or aquarium water, adults should help children wash their hands.

Interesting facts about Bearded Dragons

·   Their name comes from their “beard” of scales around the neck.

·   They wave to acknowledge each other.

·   They have plenty of behaviours unique to their species.

·   They love to sunbathe.

·   They can run up to 9 miles per hour.

·   They love going on walks on a leash.

·   They enjoy swimming.

·   They can regrow their teeth.

·   They can sleep standing upright.

·   They can run on two legs.

·   They can change their skin color.

·   They make a hissing noise when defending territory.

·   They produce venom.

·   Bearded dragons don’t urinate liquid.

Substrate for Bearded Dragons

A high-quality substrate is critical for your bearded dragon’s health and comfort. The medium that makes up the flooring in an enclosure is referred to as the substrate. Create a more comfortable and natural environment for the bearded dragon by using a substrate material. There are many various types of substrates to choose from, some of which are superior to others.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Coconut husks for little one and chips for larger reptiles are available. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. You can use it straight away without hydrating the compacted chip blocks for high-humidity reptile, or you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces, and scatter it around the container for low-humid seeking reptile. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.

Calcium sand and Playground sand

Calcium sand and playground sand are two of the most common substrates for bearded dragons. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages bearded dragons’ natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.

Another alternative is to use playground sand, which is relatively affordable and easy to get around. These may easily be found in pet stores. To be safe, bake playground sand in the oven at 350°F for around 15 minutes to eliminate any potentially harmful germs or bacteria. Replace sand-based substrates once a month, and clean up any spills immediately.

Cage Carpet

Cage Carpet developed exclusively for reptile terrariums. It looks like the green or brown indoor/outdoor carpet that was once used to imitate grass. This is a low-cost, low-maintenance alternative that is very effective. It’s simple to clean, replace, and maintain, as well as being reasonably priced. It’s not the most appealing substrate, but it’s one of the most secure. Because there are no small loose particles for the bearded dragon to swallow, there is very minimal chance of impaction when using this substrate.

Cage carpet is simple to clean and remove. At least once a week, remove the carpet and clean it with warm water and a light soap. Before returning the carpet to the terrarium, make sure it has been fully rinsed and dried. Any leftover food or waste should be cleaned as quickly as possible. The carpet should be replaced every three months or as needed.

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy approach is to use newspapers, which is generally readily available in the home. Cover the entire floor area with three or four layers of newspaper. Newspaper substrates should be replaced on a daily basis. Clean up any spills right away or as quickly as possible. While not particularly appealing, newspapers are a very cost-effective option.

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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Leopard Gecko

New to reptile care! need help choosing your first lizard! Each lizard is unique in itself and in most cases has specific husbandry requirements. Some lizards are social and enjoyable, while others are shy and tense in human presence. Lizards will live a longer time, it is very important to choose a lizard that suits your lifestyle and husbandry capabilities.

Facts about lizards

Lizards are popular pets. They take up very little space and are easy to take care of. The natural habitat of lizards extends from tropical rainforests and jungles to arid and arid regions of the world. Many factors affect the health of lizards, such as heat, light, stress, nutrition and moisture. Therefore, it is very important to understand where and how lizards exist in nature. Please consult your pet dealer for the specific environmental requirements of your lizard.

Which lizards are good pets?

Many of the lizards on our list are good choices for most people, but not for all. When choosing a lizard, be sure to choose a species that suits your lifestyle, husbandry and handling skills.

  1. Crested- Leopard Geckos and Gargoyles are perfect for those who don’t want to set-up aquarium like structures and want a basic environment.
  2. Bearded Dragon, Leopard Gecko, Crested Gecko, and Blue Tongue Skink are great choices for lovers who wish to tame their pets.
  3. If you are looking for small lizards, Gold-Dust Day Gecko, Green Anole, Crested Gecko and Long-tailed Gecko are good choices. Tegu, Water Dragons, Monitor Lizards, Iguanas and Caiman lizards (Dracaena) are large reptiles.
  4. If you are uncomfortable with feeding pets live food, Uromastyx and Iguanas are almost pure herbivores.
  5. Chameleons and Iguanas are great ways to show off pets and are not interested in handling them.
  6. If there is no particular space to raise pets, then choose not Iguana nor the Green Anole which does allow you to pet them.
  7.  Although all the lizards on this list are excellent first pets, they all need to be sorted out carefully.
  8. Bearded dragons are one of the best choices for beginners to raise reptiles because of their friendly nature and their love toward handling.

Lizards can make exciting pets, but there are so many types that it is difficult to pick the right lizard for you. Some of the most popular lizards, such as Iguanas are not suitable for most pet owners. Choosing the right lizard will help you and your pet be happy for years to come.

Why choose LEOPARD GECKOS?

Leopard gecko is a very unique reptile, known for its amazing leopard appearance and huge, fat-laden tail. These small lizards will fit in your hand even when they grow up. They are some of the most popular lizard pets and good lizards for beginners. They make up good pets because they are gentle, easy to care for, and have many interesting colors and patterns. The gecko is definitely a cool lizard.

Gecko is a cute, docile and friendly lizard with many interesting behaviors and pleasant sounds. They adapt to handling very quickly and are easy to maintain for every beginner.

Significance

These are shy lizards with amazing predation and invasion abilities and camouflage themselves with leopard prints in dry desert rocks or high meadows. Because of their fat storing tails, these species can hide for a longer time, which can prevent them till their threat has been eliminated. They also shed more frequently than most lizards to prevent predators from smelling them. After all, the leopard gecko makes a very loud sound. It makes noises when it mates, defends itself, or when awakened by screaming, barking, or hissing.

Behavior

A common yellow or lilac leopard gecko with brown or black spots, is oftenly called a Spotted Cat. Some of the patterns include high yellow, yellow, patternless, albino, eclipse, giant, snow poppy, enigma, hypo, carrot tail, carrot head etc,. Leopard geckos have short claws and fatty tail, which peel off when lizards feel threatened. Under captivity, this gecko can live for 15-20 years.

Fun Facts

  • Almost all gecko sounds range from a soft squeak to the deafening hiss of African whistling gecko.
  • Many geckos do not have eyelids, but leopard geckos are not only translucent, but also movable, so they can blink and close their eyes while sleeping.
  • Like many lizards, the leopard gecko has a tail that can be easily broken when a predator catches it. This allows the gecko to escape when under attack. Unfortunately, it leaves a valuable source of food in. Tail used to store fat for lean periods.
  • They live a strict nocturnal lifestyle, away from the heat of the day, looking for food through holes and cracks at night.

How do you groom your pet lizard?

1 Habitat Maintenance

Clean and disinfect the habitat thoroughly at least once a week: place the gecko in a safe habitat; wipe the water tank and furnish with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water and remove all traces of bleach odor. Dry your water tank and furnish completely and add a clean substrate.

2 Care and Hygiene

Leopard geckos sheds regularly; ensure that the humidity in the habitat is high enough to allow adequate separation. To make it easier to shed off, provide a shed box, a leather case with peat moss, to help the shedding process.

3 Diet and Feeding schedule

Leopard Gecko’s balanced diet includes insects, crickets, mealworms, and wax worms, also using intestinal crickets. (freshly fed) 

Points to consider when feeding leopard geckos:

· Always provide fresh, clean and chlorine-free water.

· Feed every day.

· Sprinkle daily calcium supplements and multivitamin supplements on food once or twice a week.

4 Housing and Substrate

A sufficiently large area with safe coverage; it is recommended to use a 10-20 gallon water tank for the leopard gecko. Provide multiple hiding locations with non-toxic plants, branches, trunks and cork. Keep the humidity below 50%.

Temperature gradient of 95°F for very hot/sunbathing and 78-88°F at extremely cold. 10 to 12 hours of light are needed every day; because leopard geckos are nocturnal, they do not need ultraviolet light. Incandescent lamps can be used for sunbathing; you can use ceramic heaters or night lights at any time. Do not put two or more male geckos together or house different kinds of reptiles together.

The substrate must be absorbent and easy to clean and should not cause choking hazard or toxicity to your pet even if accidentally swallowed. The substrate should not be too abrasive to reduce the risk of pet injuries, and it should also be made of materials that will not retain or absorb too much moisture for desert species.

Coconut Husk

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

Coconut Husk or Coco Chip is one of the safest, organic and most popular choices for reptile bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and enriched fibrous material. It comes in two versions: Coconut Husk for smaller lizards and  Coco Chips for larger lizards. Its absorption can block unpleasant odors, retain moisture for a longer time and maintain a humid temperature. You can use it as needed. Wet the blocks, crush the pieces and put them in a container. Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable.

Carpet Liner

Carpet Liner is a sleek look and easy to clean substrate, making it an ideal habitat for your leopard gecko. Carpet Liner should be cleaned spotless and disinfected with reptile-specific cleaning solution once in a week. Maintain a healthy home for your pet.

Calci Sand

For Leopard Gecko, calcium sand helps imitate the natural desert environment and has many beneficial benefits, such as prompting natural burial behavior. Calcium sand is not only non-toxic, but also rich in calcium and vitamins. A small amount of oral administration can provide great health benefits, but it should not replace the intake of dietary supplements. You can scoop the waste along the sand all at once. 

General health Issue

Gastro-Intestinal Diseases:
Loose stools, crusty or stains in ventilated areas, and loss of appetite due to bacterial or parasitic infections. Consult your veterinarian.

Metabolic Bone/Vitamin Deficiency:
Insufficient calcium absorption due to insufficient UV-B light or insufficient calcium/vitamin D supplementation. If left untreated, this can lead to conditions characterized by deformities and weak bones. Limb swelling and lethargy. Please consult your veterinarian to make sure you have enough UVB and enough calcium/vitamin supplements.

Respiratory Diseases:
Shortness of breath and mucus in the nose and mouth. This may be caused by the environment being too cold or too humid. Please consult your veterinarian to ensure that your environment is at the right temperature.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Garter Snake

Garter snakes have adapted to many different environments in the wild including scrubland and forests and they are usually found near water. Garter snakes are commonly available as captive bred but they are also wild collected. It is strongly advised that you only obtain captive bred or rescue animals. These snakes are now available in many captive bred colour morphs.

Behaviour

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active. In the wild they are often found around water; streams, rivers, lakes and marshes.

Females are around 3ft long depending on species and males are usually 2ft or less in length. They are a fairly slim bodied snake, males more so than females. Babies are very small, average size at birth is 6-8 inches. The average lifespan in the wild may only be 4-5 years however they can live twice as long in captivity. Captives reaching over 10 years old have been documented when reptile health and wellness is prioritized along with proper snake supplies, reptile cleaning supplies, and snake habitat products.

Temperature

Naturally, garter snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 85of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Garter snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.

At night, all of the lights should go off and the enclosure should be completely dark. This should make sure that the snake has a clear day and night cycle.

During the day your temperatures will be much too warm and the heat mats thermostat should keep it off automatically. The heat mat will only begin to heat once the temperatures have dropped below 75of at night time.

Though the thermostats we sell are very reliable it is always best practice to monitor your temperatures with a thermometer. A 5of variance on the basking spot is nothing to worry about as long as your cool side is still cool. A simple dial thermometer on each side should be sufficient but digital probe thermometers are much more accurate.

Lighting

Garter snakes do not require UVB to use the calcium in their diet like other reptiles but it is still a beneficial addition to the enclosure. The snake would naturally be exposed to UV from sunlight in the wild and as we are trying to emulate nature in our enclosures, we recommend providing some UVB. A 5% T8 UVB tube, 2-5% T5 UVB tube or more powerful but smaller unit should be sufficient. The UV tube should be mounted to the ceiling at the back of the enclosure to provide a light gradient running parallel to the temperature gradient. There will be times when the snake will want less or no UVB so partial and full hiding spots should be placed all along the width of the enclosure.

Humidity

The correct humidity is essential to keep your snake’s respiratory system healthy and for normal skin shedding. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity inside the vivarium, which should be around 50 to 60%. If it is too low, you can spray it with clean water. If it is too high, the vivarium will need more ventilation.

Cleaning

Garter snakes, as with most pets, require a clean environment to thrive. We recommend a spot clean as often as possible (every day) and a full clean every 4 weeks or so. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It may still be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

When cleaning the enclosure you should remove your animal, all decorations and all of the bedding. Once the enclosure is clear you can spray it all over with a reptile friendly disinfectant. These usually work very quickly and only need to be left for around 30 seconds, instructions can normally be found on the disinfectants packaging. Once the disinfectant has done its work it can be wiped away from the surfaces with a paper towel. In some cases, you might want to repeat this process a second time to ensure that the enclosure is thoroughly cleaned.

Your decorations can be cleaned in a similar method, simply spray them down with the disinfectant and rinse thoroughly with water before drying them off and putting them back into the enclosure. We recommend this process is done during the day time to make sure that the snake will be going back to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lamps are turned off for the night.

Handling

Garter snakes are not keen on being held for long periods. However, they may allow you to hold them for short periods, after they have settled in. Never grab your snake as this could stress it and may lead to struggling, biting or musking – when a strong smell is released from the snake – normal predator avoidance behaviours. The snake can be gently scooped up supporting the whole animal. The snake should not be taken out for so long that its core temperature drops. Five to ten minutes is a safe period, depending on the temperature outside of the vivarium.

Diet

Many keepers feed adults a frozen thawed rodent only diet, which is fine because this provides complete nutrition. However in the wild garters would eat a more varied live reptile food diet consisting of worms, amphibians, fish, and rodents, so it is a good idea to provide some variety in captivity. I prefer to feed both night crawlers and rodents, which can be found in pet stores or online reptile shops. Babies are easy to start on small cut up pieces of night crawlers. Most feeder fish contain an enzyme called thiaminase, which breaks down thiamine (vitamin B1). Long term exclusive feeding of these fish should be avoided, because doing so can lead to a potentially fatal vitamin deficiency. Garters do not eat crickets, mealworms or other insects.

A water dish large enough for the snake to completely submerge in is ideal. Garters love water and will often soak, especially before shedding. A water area large enough for swimming is ideal but not necessary. Garters will sometimes defecate in water, so it is important to check and change frequently. I prefer to use 16 ounce disposable deli cups, which are replaced at least once a week. This is the bare minimum size for adults.

Substrate

There are many substrates that will work for garter snakes. Popular choices are Aspen shavings, newspaper pellets or pulp crumbles, Cypress and Coco Husk like products. Substrates to avoid are sand, clay cat litter, cedar, pine or other aromatic wood products, or dirt from outside. Newspaper or paper towels can be used for babies but are not good choices for adults. Due to garter’s high metabolism, a deeper more absorbent substrate is preferable. Also, garters like to burrow, so it is good to provide at least an inch or two of substrate. I have used newspaper pellets or pulp, aspen, and wood pellets with good results.

Conclusion

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active.

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A Complete Overlook on Captive Snakes Caring

Snakes make excellent pets. They are simple to maintain, clean, quiet and they do not require frequent engagement. They also need very little specialised equipment for optimum care and handling. It’s crucial to realise that snake care is really not something that can be generalised. Certain species require particular handling techniques, so do your study on the species to learn more about how to care for your pet snake properly. 

It’s critical to provide your snake with the best possible care by simulating its natural surroundings as nearly as possible. Investigate your snake’s native environment, such as fields, marshes, meadows, tropical woods, or deserts.

Temperature and Lighting

Snakes are cold-blooded and require a source of heat to maintain their body temperature and maintain good health. There should be a warm and a cool side to your snake’s terrarium. The majority of snakes demand a consistent temperature of 75°F to 85°F. For most of the pet snakes, keep the warm side at 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool side at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. This gradient can be maintained by under-tank heating or overhead heat bulbs. The entire terrarium should be 65-70°F at night. Tropical species require slightly greater temperatures in the basking area, up to 90°F, as well as increased humidity 75-90 %.

For maintaining this temperature, you can provide a heat bulb to top of the cage or heat tape at the bottom of the cage. An under-aquarium heating pad and an incandescent reptile light fixture with a spot light or ceramic heater can be strategically placed to achieve this. Your snake can control his own microclimate by locating the hiding spot in a cooler corner.

Housing

Aquariums with a lockable screen cover make excellent snake housing. They will keep cold-blooded animals warm while also allowing for optimal visibility and proper ventilation. Snakes use both vertical and horizontal surfaces, so there should be enough room for them to stretch out and move about freely within their enclosure. Unless you want to keep an arboreal species such as a rough green snake, a ribbon snake, or a tree boa that require height for climbing, an aquarium that is longer and deeper than it is tall is optimal. Snakes may strike or rub against the wire on the side walls of an enclosure, inflicting harm to the snake’s face or skin. Security-oriented screen covers are a must-have. Make sure the enclosure has a good locking system. Snakes can climb over glass walls, push open covers, and squeeze through small spaces, making them excellent escape artists.

Diet and Nutrition

snake-diet-mices

Snakes are all carnivorous. They eat mice, rats, chicks, fish, eggs, red worms, and crickets in captivity. Newborn snakes are preferring pinky mice. Water snakes and garters are fed nightcrawlers and minnows. Green, decay, and ringneck snakes are fed live crickets, earthworms, insects, and caterpillars. Many desert species only eat lizards, while hognose snakes only eat toads. Bird eggs, as well as birds themselves, are common foods for other species. Most snake species that consume amphibians, reptiles, or birds in their natural habitat can be trained to eat rodents. The type of diet and frequency of feeding will vary depending on the snake’s species, age, and season. Snakes should be fed once per 1 to 2 weeks in most cases. Although your snake’s jaw can expand to swallow a rodent larger than its head, it is a good rule of thumb to never feed a prey item that is substantially thicker than the snake’s thickest point. Feed frozen rats instead of live rodents whenever feasible. Live rodents, which may bite in self-defense and damage your snake, are safer and healthier to feed. Furthermore, the freezing process will have killed most internal or external parasites that the prey item may have carried. Thaw the rodent until it is slightly warmer than room temperature before feeding it to your snake. Do not allow the rodent to thaw in locations where food is prepared.

Provide a large enough water dish for the snake to soak in. This will provide lots of water for your pet, as well as serve to raise ambient humidity and aid in shedding. A water dechlorinate should be used with all tap water. Once a day, change the water.

Handling and Safety

Small snakes are generally very easy to handle. When handling your pet, avoid being overly harsh or making rapid movements to be on the safe side. You should study the behaviour of your snakes. Some snakes are active in nature who will benefit from time spent outside the vivarium exercising. Approximately 10-15 minutes 3-4 times a week is a suitable amount of time for handling these kinds of species, but this may vary depending on the particular snake. Some snakes are shy, they don’t like being handled. Give a few weeks to settle a new snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you. Snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Handle young snakes just once or twice a week. Wait a few days after feeding your snake before handing it over; this will allow the snake to digest its prey.

When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.

Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.

Cleaning

Good cleaning, care, and handling will assist to keep your pets healthy and limit the risk of your snake infecting humans. Proper care to keep your pet healthy, in addition to giving the correct feed, temperature, and humidity. Clean the enclosure on a daily basis and remove any droppings. Cleaning the branches and pebbles, changing the substrate, removing any large clumps, and wiping down the glass should all be done on a weekly basis.

Snakes should be handled with caution and under the supervision of an adult. A snake may be startled by sudden movements, forcing it to attack defensively, resulting in significant harm. After touching your snake, you should always wash your hands with antibacterial soap. Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy.

Common health issues

·   Mites: Check your snake for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for your pet snake.

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your snake is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

Enclosure

Snakes often thrive in smaller habitats. Larger dwellings may cause your pet snake to become agitated. In a 20-gallon tank, most snakes will be content. To minimise territorial disputes, difficult feeding, and even cannibalism among some snake breeds, several snakes should be maintained separately. To keep your snake from fleeing, make sure your terrarium has a secure lid.

Substrate

The type of bedding that will line your snake’s habitat is known as a substrate. A suitable substrate will maintain moisture efficiently, will not emit foul odours from uric acid absorption, and will not be easily swallowed or inhaled by your pet snake. Burrowing and non-burrowing snakes will benefit from cypress mulch, aspen shavings, and coconut fibre. They maintain humidity and manage odour inside the snake’s cage while posing no risk of impaction (constipation). Newspaper and paper towels are free solutions, but they don’t have a high moisture tolerance and aren’t suited for burrowing snakes.

Not all forms of bedding are suitable for snakes kept in captivity. Sand, is easily absorbed by your snake, causing rigid stools and constipation. Any substrate containing cedar or pine should be avoided since it emits oils that are detrimental to snakes and reptiles in general.

Conclusion

Snakes make excellent pets for experienced owners. In order to thrive, they require the right tank and temperature conditions. Proper care must be taken to keep your snake healthy. A pet snake can be the ideal pet for you if you have the necessary experience, dedication, and education.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Grey Banded Kingsnake

The gray-banded kingsnake (Lampropeltis alterna) is an excellent pet snake. It does not grow to a huge size, is a good eater on easily obtained food items, and has lovely colours. Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in west Texas, New Mexico, and northern Mexico in the wild. The gray-banded kingsnake is one of the most sought-after snakes in the world because of its extreme diversity.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in a variety of habitats. These snakes are known for being simple to tame and loyal. They’re also simple to teach, particularly when it comes to feeding times and routines.

Gray-banded kingsnakes are available in a wide range of hues, from sparkling light grey and orange to darker variants. Gray-banded kingsnakes range in size from hatchlings of 10 inches to adults of more than 3 feet. They have a 15-year lifespan. Gray-banded kingsnakes can live up to thirty years if you give them the greatest possible care.

Temperature Requirements

During the day, grey-banded king snakes require temperatures between 84-90 degrees. Temperatures should be between 68 and 75 degrees at night. If you keep your snake too cool, it will regurgitate, so keep the daytime temperatures consistent. If your snake is continually moving in its enclosure and finds it difficult to settle, adjust the temperature on both ends gradually. Using temperatures to help your snake’s health is another option. During the winter, lower the temperature even further. This will provide the snake with a climate that is comparable to that of its natural habitat.

Humidity

Humidity should be kept low to avoid respiratory issues. Gray Banded King Snakes require around 60% humidity. Place a damp plastic box with damp paper towels inside to keep humidity. The cover should have a hole the same size as your pet’s, and it will also help to increase humidity in the living space. You also can provide a water bowl or small dish.

Lighting

When it comes to lighting, kingsnakes don’t normally rely on it, and they don’t usually engage in basking behaviours. Extra heat sources, such as hot lights or specialised bulbs, are not necessary. If you want then you can install UVB lighting as a supplementary heat source.

Handling

Gray-banded kingsnakes normally don’t mind being handled gently. If your snake has a strong feeding reaction, gently nudge it with an inert object before reaching into its enclosure to avoid it from mistaking your hand for food (such as forceps). This informs the snake that it is not time to eat.

Allow a gray-banded kingsnake to slither around in your palms without being constrained. Don’t hold on to it too closely. You can get a slight nip if you try to detain the snake too violently, or the snake may exude musk to show its dissatisfaction. So that your snake does not feel intimidated, always support it with both hands.

Cleaning

As needed, the terrarium should be cleaned. Several times a week, any faeces should be wiped out. Once a month, the bedding should be fully replaced, and fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A suitable reptile cage cleaner can be used to clean the inside of the terrarium. King snakes can be handled on a daily basis, but wash your hands thoroughly before and after touching them.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Gray-banded kingsnakes prefer to eat mice and other common reptile diets. However, a few lizards might be helpful to get them started. Then introduce them to mice and rats, which will be their sole source of nutrition for the rest of their lives. Feed the hatchlings a pink mouse that isn’t dressed. Adult gray-banded kingsnakes eat small adult mice, while juvenile gray-banded kingsnakes eat fuzzy baby mice.

Potential Health Issue

Mites

Mites are small black parasites that grow on and feed on the blood of your King Snake. Mites are generally seen around the eyes, mouth, and under the scales of a King Snake that has caught them. During a mite infection, your snake will appear lethargic and may refuse to eat. If you find mites on your King snake, bathe it in warm water immediately and thoroughly sanitise the tank and contents.

Respiratory Infections

R.Is is a bacterial infection induced by poor cage conditions, low temperatures, or excessive humidity, but it can also be spread from snake to snake. Excess saliva and nasal discharge can make king snakes sound wheezy. Very mild R.Is may go away themselves If the snake’s living conditions are improved, it may go away on its own, but major illnesses should be treated by a veterinarian right enough to avoid Mouth Rot or even death.

Regurgitation

Regurgitation can be a sign of a variety of digestive issues, illnesses, and stress. If a King Snake is handled too soon after a feeding or if it is fed an item that is too large for it, it may regurgitate its food. In this situation, you should give the snake a week to settle down before feeding it again. If your King Snake regurgitates its food frequently, loses a lot of weight, or shows any other indicators that concern you, seek medical help as soon as possible.

Substrate Nature

You can utilise shavings, paper towels, and newspapers as terrarium substrates. It is necessary to spot-clean the substrates at least twice a week and to change the full set of substrates every two months to preserve cleanliness. Allowing dirty substrates to remain in the enclosure for an extended period of time will lead to the growth of hazardous germs, which can cause snake illnesses or even death. No Cedar or Redwood Shavings should be used in predator or prey enclosures since they are poisonous to all animals. Cedar and redwood should not be utilised in the construction of animal housing, nor in any furniture or panelling in a vivarium that houses animals.

To clean the terrarium, combine 95 percent water, 5% bleach, and a few drops of liquid soap. This solution must be used to thoroughly clean the cage before installing the new substrates. Clean the snake’s water bowl and hiding spot with this solution as well. Before returning everything to the cave, make sure it is completely dry.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut husk is a light, easy-to-clean, and appealing material. It is more expensive than other substrates. It absorbs odours and binds them to the substrate. It’s a non-toxic, dust-free substrate that’s completely chemical-free. It doesn’t mould and absorbs a lot of moisture.

Aspen Shavings

For King Snakes, aspen shavings can be used. As its shavings cannot be cleaned, they must be removed and replaced with new shavings as they become dirty. If you’re using aspen shavings, you may scoop out the urine and excrement with a cat litter scoop and replace it with fresh aspen as needed. Remove any soiled substrate as soon as possible; urine-soaked material may serve as a breeding ground for bacteria, potentially harming your King Snake. You must feed your snake in a secure environment if you use this type of substrate; you do not want it to consume any of the shavings.

Newspaper

For years, animal keepers have used layers of newspaper. When multiple layers are utilised, it is relatively absorbent and affordable to replace. The inks used in printing, on the other hand, are known to be toxic to animals. Unprinted sheets are available from moving supply stores, and roll ends are available from some newspaper companies. When multiple sheets are used, it is relatively absorbent, similar to printed newspaper, especially when layered with paper towels. Unprinted sheets and rolls, unlike printed newspaper, are free of potentially toxic inks that could injure your King Snake.

Beech Chippings

Beech Chippings are widely accessible at most reptile stores and make for a beautiful vivarium substrate. It’s available in three sizes i.e. small, medium, and large, so you may pick the one that’s right for your snake. Although it is not as absorbent as Aspen, it allows for spot cleaning. Burrowing snakes do not prefer it as a substrate.

Astroturf / Artificial Grass

The first artificial grass floor covering was Astroturf. Since then, carpet producers have released a variety of artificial grass grades. In most hardware stores, there are two or more grades. The cheapest option is usually the best to use. It’s more adaptable, which is important for complete cleaning and disinfection. Pieces can be washed and disinfected multiple times before needing to be replaced. Astroturf® is affordable enough that several pieces for each enclosure can be cut and rotated every cleaning day. Many pet shops and mail order pet suppliers sell fake grass substrate in small, packed pieces that are identical to the stuff found in building supply stores.

Conclusion

One of the snake species that can be kept as pets is the gray-banded kingsnake. They don’t get very big, and they’re usually simple to feed. These harmless snakes are not venomous and pose no threat to people.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Gopher Snake

Gopher snakes are from the western coast of America and they are fairly large snakes. Gopher snakes are very curious and active snakes. They are perfect pets for beginning caretakers. They are generally found on the western coast of America in arid meadows, fields and farmland.

Table of contents

Behaviour

They have quite a narrow head and are a little heavier than other snakes of the same species. They’re usually beige or light yellow in colour, with black or dark brown stripes spanning the length of the snake. These snakes can live upto 25 years with prior care, without care and all their living margins at 15 years. In captivity, they have an average lifespan of 20 to 25 years. They rarely live past 15 years in the wild, with a lifespan of 12 to 15 years. With these snakes, you need to be sure and committed before acquiring one as they live long.

Temperature Requirements

As a western coast American snake, the Gopher snake doesn’t need high temperatures to thrive. They require a temperature of about 79 F. A basking spot is necessary when it comes to Gopher snakes. The temperature of the basking place might reach 85 degrees F. The warm spots are supposed to be at the end of the enclosure, which creates a gradient in temperature where the temperature drops as the snake moves away from the basking spot. The warm end of the enclosure will be around 85 degrees Fahrenheit, while the cool end will be around 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Heating mats or ceramic bulbs can be used to keep the area warm.

Humidity

humidity-temperature-measure

Because the Gopher snake thrives at regular room humidity between 40% and 60%, there is no need to mist the enclosure or provide a humidifier. The only time they’ll need a lot of water is when they’re shedding. A humid box which is a hide box with a moist substrate like damp paper towels, can aid in the snake’s shedding.

It is essential to provide clean water to the snake at all times. This water should preferably be chlorine-free. The water bowl must be hefty and solid to prevent the snake from tipping it over and spilling the contents. The water should be changed on a regular basis to ensure that it is always clean and free of faeces and other foreign stuff.

Lighting

Since the Gopher snake eats whole prey such as rodents, they do not need vitamin D3 supplements or UVB lights. They get all of their nutrition from the rodents they eat. You must maintain a day-night cycle. There is no need for lighting if the enclosure is put in a room that gets plenty of natural light.

If the enclosure does not get any natural light, you can use fluorescent lighting to illuminate it. The light needs to be on for 12 hours and off for 2 hours.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Gopher snakes have ferocious appetites. In captivity, they feed readily and grow quickly. For the first month of their lives, you can feed two or three pink mice every four days. For about five months, you move them up to two fuzzy mice twice a week and then to hopper mice twice a week for the next six months. The snake should reach close to 3 feet long after a year and capable of eating one or two adult mice or smaller rats once a week. Instead of many mice, one mid-sized to large rat may be provided each week in the second and third years, as the snakes attain sexual maturity.

Handling

Gopher snakes are usually curious creatures, active in their daytime and will roam around to explore new things in their surroundings. Most are completely calm and don’t make a fuss when they’re being handled. Gophers rarely bite in defence, although they do have small teeth and are capable. Hatchlings are very sensitive, but most snakes calm down with regular handling over time.

When held, they tend to stay active, but you may keep them in place by switching hands underneath them as they move. As they aren’t always the finest climbers, make care to support their weight for them, and avoid handling them while they’re in the shed or after a meal.

Housing

When it reaches adulthood, the gopher snake can grow to be fairly enormous. Specimens up to 7′ in length are not rare. As a result, you’ll need a cage that’s the right size for your snake. A baby or juvenile can be kept in a smaller terrarium. An adult Gopher snake should require a 4’ x 2’ size cage or larger. You have to clean the entire cage at least once a month. Clean all the feces daily and remove the shed skin.

Cleaning

To thrive, Gopher snakes require a clean environment. A spot in the cage should be cleaned every day and the full cage should be cleaned every 4 weeks. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It can be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

Substrate Nature

Because the Gopher snake prefers dry environments, you won’t have to worry about maintaining a high level of humidity. As a result, a moisture-retaining substrate is not required. Old newspaper or paper towels make wonderful substrates for newborns and juveniles. They are cheap, accessible, and easy to clean/change. Adults do well on paper as well. The biggest disadvantage of paper is that it is unattractive.

Calcium sand is another wonderful option. When consumed, unlike real sand, it does not cause compaction. It also adds to the enclosure’s beauty by resembling desert sand.

Also, aspen bedding, corn cob granules, coconut chipping or cypress mulch are good bedding options. In fact, any substrate can be used apart from cedar or pine since these are toxic to snakes. The snake may burrow into the substrate if it is only a few inches deep.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut Husk is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

·       Retain moisture

·       It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

·       Costly

·       Mites thrive in cypress mulch 

Newspaper and paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. Paper towels can work superior for small cages. It is versatile and it can be placed on the bottom of the cage. Newborn snakes love newspapers. Adults can’t easily burrow in newspapers, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Wet or damp newspapers and paper towels can cause skin infection in the snakes. To avoid these, replace wet newspapers with fresh newspapers.

Advantages:

·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings are inexpensive, easy to replace, and aesthetically pleasing. Snakes are also really simple to burrow through. Furthermore, aspen shavings allow for good ventilation in the cage. Keep in mind that if the chips are too small, the yellow rat snake is more likely to swallow them whole while feeding. If you are using this bedding then feed your snakes outside of the enclosure.

Advantages:

·       It is not too expensive.

·       Snakes are easily burrowed in it.

·       It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

·       It needs to change completely more often.

Sand

For Gopher snakes, sand is a more appealing substrate than newspaper or paper towels. It comes in a range of hues to match your decor design and may be purchased at pet stores. It makes a beautiful enclosure and creates a dessert look. Snakes may burrow in sand, but if the sand is consumed, it will harm your snake. 

Advantages:

·       Create beautiful and attractive enclosure.

·       Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Disadvantages:

·       It is bad for your snake if the sand is swallowed.

Conclusion

Gopher snakes usually learn to trust people over time and most aren’t shy about exploring your world or demanding food. That behaviour is what makes gopher snakes one of the most engaging snakes to keep!