CategoriesLifestyle Pet Turtle Caring Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Box Turtle

Appearance

The box turtle has a tiny head and a hooked upper jaw, making it an intriguing pet with a distinct personality. Depending on the species or subspecies, their colour varies. Some have a lemon-yellow or olive-yellow head, and their shells range in colour from brown to olive-brown to black. Some have a large dark patch on their underside as well as black triangular markings with a brown or olive triangle behind the eye.

Their spines may be red or light brown in colour, or they may have three longitudinal stripes. By the time they reach the age of 15, box turtles should have reached the end of their growth cycle. Adults are around five inches tall and weigh 400 grammes on average. Box turtles live for 30 to 50 years on average, but some have lived up to 100 years!

Behaviour

Box turtles are not intended as pets for young children or inexperienced pet owners. This is owing to their extensive care requirements and vulnerability to stress, both of which can negatively impact a turtle’s health. You can expect to spend at least a week cleaning and maintaining their enclosure, as well as feeding them every day or two.

Box turtles prefer to remain in a consistent environment and avoid being touched by humans. They don’t usually bite, however nervousness caused by overhandling can cause them to nip someone. Furthermore, they can contain salmonella, so wash your hands carefully after handling your turtle or anything in its habitat. Most box turtles will remember their keepers once they’ve become accustomed to their surroundings, even following a person’s motions from inside their cage or asking for food.

Temperature Requirements

Daytime temperatures for common box turtles should be at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature might dip between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. To assist manage the temperature, use a basking lamp, ceramic heat emitters, or other heat sources.

For box turtles to digest the calcium in their meals, UVB illumination is required. They may get metabolic bone disease and possibly die if they don’t get it. 2 Box turtles require around 12 hours of UVB illumination each day, which may be obtained from natural sunshine or a UVB lamp. To simulate a natural day-night cycle indoors, turn off the lamp at night.

Humidity

A humidity level of approximately 60% is ideal for box turtles. This may be achieved by misting on a regular basis and utilising a substrate that maintains moisture.

Housing

A wooden vivarium is required for a typical box turtle’s enclosure. This is because wood is a great heat insulator, thus a wooden vivarium will make it simpler to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. The wooden vivarium should be well ventilated to allow for enough air flow in and out of the enclosure, as well as sealed to keep moisture and humidity out.

For a juvenile, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long, and for an adult, 1150mm (46″) long. The cage must be heated at one end and cold at the other, with enough space between them for the temperature to decrease.

Diet 

Vegetation, turtle food, live feeder insects, and flesh make up a box turtle’s diet. Dropping crickets or locusts into the pool for the live food component because they are both healthy and simple to digest. Snails and worms are common additions to the meat component of the diet.

Dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette, and bell peppers are all suitable for the vegetation component of the diet. Leafy greens should make up the majority of the vegetation. Supplements can be dusted on the salad, but we wouldn’t dust the turtle food, meat, or live food since we don’t want to contaminate the turtle’s pool water.

Handling

It is critical for both you and your turtle to maintain excellent cleanliness. So, before you start touching anything, wash your hands.

  • Before you decide to handle them, make sure they aren’t resting or feeding, and consider whether or not they are in the mating season.
  • Pick up your turtle with both hands from both sides of its shell.
  • Don’t squeeze your turtle, but make sure it doesn’t squirm out of your hands while it’s flying.
  • Picking up your turtle by the limbs or turning it fast is not a good idea.
  • Even though turtles are gentle, they do best when handled just for examinations and cleaning.

Substrate Nature

The substance that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s habitat is called substrate. It aids in humidity retention and satisfies the turtle’s need to burrow. Furthermore, it can give the enclosure a more natural appearance and feel. As a result, try to choose a substrate that closely resembles the turtle’s native habitat. Chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss are popular among gardeners. Wood chips help your turtle to burrow, so make sure you layer it at least 4 inches deep. It is not recommended to utilise soil or gravel since they might induce intestinal obstruction if consumed.The best choice of substrate is Coconut Husk. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell

Gravel

Gravel is one of the simplest and most cheap turtle tank substrate alternatives. It comes in a variety of hues. It’s simple to use, turtle-safe, and won’t alter the pH or chemistry of your tank’s water.

Advantages:

  • Colored natural materials with a non-toxic finishing
  • Turtles can tolerate a fine texture.
  • The pH or chemistry of tank water will not be affected.

Disadvantages:

  • Rough edges may be seen on certain stones.
  • Blue substrates may not appear as natural as other colours.

Conclusion

Box turtles have extremely particular needs that necessitate a rigorous husbandry routine. After a few weeks, though, this maintenance becomes very easy for first-time owners. Many turtle owners establish a lifelong relationship with their pets since they are docile and cheap.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Aquatic Turtle

Turtles, both aquatic and semi-aquatic, are popular as pets. Turtles are interesting pets to have, but they are delicate animals, so learning how to care for one before acquiring one is essential. For survival, you need make space, light, hydration, and food. Understanding these areas of turtle care can ensure that your turtle has a long and happy life.

Most popular species of Aquatic turtle

Red-Eared Slider Turtle

Red-eared slider turtles are native to North America and make excellent pets. They have appealing yellow and green patterns on their bodies, as well as prominent red patches behind their eyes. They are also frequently social with their owners. When it comes to their upkeep, though, they are a significant undertaking. Those lovely tiny turtle hatchlings for sale will develop into huge, long-lived, and a bit untidy aquatic turtles. Prepare for the amount of room and cleaning they will require.

Yellow-Bellied Slider Turtle

Yellow-bellied sliders, one of the most popular pet turtles, are long-lived aquatic turtles that can live up to 40 years in captivity. Although these turtles spend the most of their time in the water, unlike amphibians, they require the ability to dry off and relax. This species of turtle is relatively easy to care for in terms of turtles. Aquatic turtles, in general, need a lot of tank upkeep. As adults, these turtles, which are closely related to red-eared sliders, will require a large aquarium. The brown or black shells with yellow stripes differentiate these popular pets. Their lower shell, or underside, is yellow with black dots, therefore the name.

Painted Turtles

Painted turtles are called from the elaborate shell patterns on their shells, although they are also known as Chrysemys picta. Males are smaller than females, and the average painted turtle develops to be between four and twelve inches long. 1 Painted turtles can live up to 50 years in the wild and can be found in ponds and small lakes, where they congregate on logs to sun themselves and dry off. They will hibernate in the winter.

Mud Turtle

Eastern mud turtles are aquatic turtles that are tiny and compact and are native to ponds in the Eastern United States from Texas to New York. They are popular as pets primarily due to their small size, seldom growing to be more than five inches long. Their needs are comparable to those of other aquatic turtles, although they are semi-terrestrial, unlike some of their cousins. Rather than seeking to soak up the sun, they spend much of their time wandering, covered beneath leaves, or resting on the bottoms of small ponds. Mud turtles are probably not a suitable pet for a smaller child, even if they are well-suited for older children who can properly care for them.

Diamondback Terrapin

Diamondback terrapins are named from the diamond-shaped pattern on its dorsal shell. Terrapin means tiny turtle. One of the most stunning turtles endemic to the United States. Diamondback terrapins are typically gentle turtles who are happy to be handled, however they may nip if threatened. They vary from other common pet aquatic turtles such as painted turtles and red-eared sliders in that they live in brackish (salty) water rather than pure freshwater.

Choosing Your Aquatic Turtle

Turtles make lovely, intriguing, and delightful pets for the appropriate person with the correct dedication. The first step in excellent aquatic turtle ownership is to learn about the different species and how to care for them. While the fundamentals of aquatic turtle care are the same for all species, prospective owners should read up on the specifics of housing and food for the type they choose before making a purchase.

The hardier aquatic turtle species, such as red-eared sliders, cooters, mud, and musk turtles, are suggested for novices. Keep in mind that sliders and cooters may grow to be over 12 inches long at maturity, although mud and musk turtles are roughly half that size. Some of the less popular species, such as map and painted turtles, are less resilient as pets. Softshell and snapping turtles have a reputation for being big, aggressive, and more difficult to care for, making them unsuitable for beginners.

Behaviour

Aquatic turtles do not require much maintenance aside from a suitable environment and nutrition, however regular engagement may result in a docile and social turtle. Depending on the species and under perfect conditions, they will reach adult size in 1 to 2 years; increase the size of the habitat as your turtle develops. In any event, they’re gorgeous, and with careful care, they should last for many years.

Large tanks, specific lighting, adequate filtration, and frequent cleaning are required for aquatic turtles. During the day, they are most active. Allow yourself to be exposed to the sun during the warmest portion of the day to assist digestion, immunity, and regular development. By roaming between warm and cool regions of the cage, they control their internal body temperature. In most cases, aquatic turtles prefer to feed while still in the water. Turtles dislike being handled frequently and may bite if startled.

Temperature Requirements

A basking lamp and a submersible heater serve as major heat sources for a temperature gradient of 95°F for the warm end/basking area and 75°F for the cool end/water. UVB rays and full spectrum illumination are necessary for 10 to 12 hours each day. For basking regions, incandescent illumination is required. Temperature changes take a long time for turtles to acclimatise to. If you want to play with him outside of his tank, make sure the room is close to the same temperature as the tank. Sudden changes will put him under stress, and his immune system may suffer as a result.

Housing

Aquatic turtles necessitate a lot of space. Turtles require frequent exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, thus all turtle tanks should have specific light bulbs intended for reptiles that generate both UVA and UVB radiation. They can get soft shell syndrome, a metabolic bone condition, if they don’t get enough light. Aquatic turtles are extremely filthy, so their tanks require frequent cleanings and, most importantly, a decent filtration system to ensure proper water quality. They should have adequate water to swim in, as well as a spot to get out of the water and relax under a heat lamp. At all times, appropriate water and ambient temperatures should be maintained.

Diet and Feeding

Although aquatic turtle diets have improved over time, they are not suggested as a sole source of nutrition. Most aquatic turtles are omnivores, however their preferences for certain foods may alter over time, and the best approach to feed them is to provide a range of foods. Aquatic turtles enjoy leafy vegetables like romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, and parsley (fresh, not dried). Because your turtle spends the most of its time immersed in water, the ideal approach to feed greens to your turtle is to either place the food directly in the water or use a suction cup clip to keep the food in the tank but not float in the water.

Chopped apples and frozen shrimp can be given to an aquatic turtle as a treat, but they are not recommended for daily consumption. Although certain water turtle species eat insects, vegetation should make up the majority of their diet. Because turtles are messy eaters, it’s best to feed them in a container separate from their home tank. This keeps the mess to a minimum. When many turtles live together, it also helps owners to keep track of each turtle’s food intake.

Habitat Maintenance

Keep the habitat clean by removing any uneaten food or excrement as soon as possible. At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat. Place the turtle in a safe environment and use a 3 percent bleach solution to clean the tank and furnishings. Rinse carefully with water to remove any lingering bleach odour. Before reintroducing the turtle, provide clean, dechlorinated water with a temperature range of 70 to 75°F.

Substrate Nature

For aquatic turtles, substrate is advised to reduce the danger of pressure sores on the bottoms of their feet. Your turtle’s health depends on having access to clean water. Even though the water looks to be clean, it may contain a significant amount of nitrogenous waste from excrement. Clean water is ensured by frequent complete water changes. The more frequent the water changes, the lower the volume of water. A 4-inch turtle in a 10-gallon tank should be changed 2-3 times each week. The water in a 50-gallon aquarium is usually changed once a week. The more turtles in the cage, the more water changes are required. If the turtles are fed in the cage, the water should be changed every 12 hours. When doing a full water change, clean and rinse the cage well to eliminate any remaining bacterial development on all surfaces. Because sudden changes in water temperature might be dangerous, be sure that the water temperature after cleaning is equal to what it was before.

Common health problems

  • GI tract parasites: Poor appetite, listlessness, perhaps diarrhoea, and anal prolapse are all symptoms of parasites in the gastrointestinal tract. As soon as possible, consult your veterinarian.
  • Respiratory infection: A cold environment can induce a respiratory illness, which includes open mouth breathing, eye, nose, and/or mouth secretion, and sneezing. Consult your veterinarian and make sure the environment is at the proper temperature.
  • Ulcers/shell rot: An dirty environment or an inappropriate food can create discoloured or foul-smelling patches or pits on the shell, which can become diseased. Consult your veterinarian and make sure you’re getting daily cleanings and/or changing your diet.
  • Eye or respiratory infection: A vitamin A deficit may produce swollen eyes and sides of the head. Consult your veterinarian and take a multivitamin.

Conclusion

Aquatic turtles are friendly and popular pets, but they require a lot of care. These creatures are tidy, quiet, and very simple to look after. Children should avoid aquatic turtles as pets.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pet Turtle Caring
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Tortoise

Introduction

Tortoises are interesting animals that have been known to outlast their owners when properly cared for. Tortoises are, in reality, among the world’s oldest creatures!

Tortoises, on the other hand, do not live long if they are not properly cared for. Many individuals purchase tortoises without completely comprehending their care requirements, and as a result, they inadvertently decrease their lives. Here’s what you need to know if you just got a new tortoise or are thinking about acquiring one.

Are Tortoises Good Pets?

Tortoises are excellent pets…if you know what you’ve been doing!

Your tortoise may approach you for food or scratching once they feel secure and familiar with you as tortoises can feel touch on their shell! However, because they are normally reclusive and do not seek for human or tortoise company, don’t anticipate a particularly cuddly pet. However, you’re more likely to see your tortoise during the day, especially if the weather is warm and bright.

Outside of fresh water and food, tortoises don’t require much in the way of daily maintenance. You’ll probably spend more time adjusting your tortoise’s diet to meet their nutritional demands and dietary preferences than you will actually caring for them. Your tortoise may require daily enclosure cleaning depending on the layout of your cage. It’s unlikely that your tortoise would require daily cleaning if they have a big outside cage.

Interesting facts about tortoise

  • Tortoises may reach a length of 10 inches.
  • They are vegetarians.
  • They live on land and are not swimmers like turtles.
  • They’re a cold-blooded species.
  • They have a life expectancy of more than 50 years.

Lighting and Heating

Your tortoise will require UV-ray-producing lights in indoor cages. This aids in the creation of vitamin D, which in turn leads to the manufacture of calcium. They also require a heat light to regulate their body temperature in a warm environment. You should have a light and a heat lamp, not just one bulb that can do both duties. The habitat should provide UV lighting in the bulk of the enclosure, but the heat should be concentrated in one area so that your tortoise may go in and out as needed.

Housing

Your tortoise’s enclosure should be as natural as possible. Adapt the enclosure to your tortoise’s species. Red-footed and Yellow-footed tortoises enjoy a tropical, humid climate, but Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Russian tortoises prefer a warm, dry environment. Overly wet conditions encourage fungal development, which is harmful to tortoises’ health. Provide access to shallow water for soaking and drinking for all tortoises. You can use Coconut Husk as bedding.

The enclosure’s ideal temperature range is 70-90°F (21-32°C). To enable body temperature control, a basking area and shade are required. At the cool end of the enclosure, place a shelter or hide-box. When you’re near your turtle, keep an eye on any other pets. In the winter, Russian and Greek tortoises may hibernate. Hibernation should only be done on healthy tortoises. Other sources of information about hibernation should be consulted. Tortoises such as the Leopard, Sulcata, Red-footed, and Yellow-footed do not hibernate. Indoor tortoises require at least 5% UVA/UVB light. UV output will diminish long before the light bulb burns out, thus light bulbs should be replaced every 6-9 months. Male tortoises may be aggressive and territorial when it comes to other male tortoises.

Diet

Tortoises are omnivores that require a diversified diet of fruits, vegetables, and good tortoise chow. Small quantities of animal protein can be provided. Sulcata and Leopard tortoises eat grass hay, leafy greens, vegetables, and tortoise chow, which are high in fibre. Fruit is offered sparingly or not at all, and there is no animal protein.

Leafy greens, grass hay, and vegetables should be offered to tortoises on a high-fiber, low-protein diet. Fruits are provided in little amounts or not at all. Tortoise chow can be added to the diet of Russian tortoises, but it should be limited or not provided at all to Greek tortoises. Tortoises in general appear to appreciate vividly coloured fruits and vegetables, as well as a varied diet. The nicest greens are dark and leafy: romaine lettuce, kale, collards, dandelion, mustard greens, and dandelion.

Several times a week, some specialists advocate dusting the feed with a veterinarian powdered calcium supplement. The tortoise may require more calcium than other tortoises, and some experts advocate giving them free-choice cuttlebone. Fresh food and water should be provided on a daily basis. Every other day, adult tortoises can be fed. It’s possible that they’ll be territorial and try to keep other turtles away from their food.

Handling and caring

Your tortoise is unlikely to like being carried about, so only do so when absolutely necessary. Scratches and petting, especially at feeding time, will aid in the development of trust.

The most crucial element of shell maintenance is ensuring that the diet has enough calcium. However, because shells are a component of your tortoise’s skeletal system, you should inspect it for cracks and other ailments. A veterinarian should examine any shell damage. If you have any questions or worries regarding the health of your box turtle, see a veterinarian who has expertise with exotic pets. Every 6 to 12 months, have a routine physical examination. Examination of the faeces for parasites on an annual basis. Your veterinarian may prescribe blood testing.

Substrate Nature

Your tortoise’s substrate should be absorbent so that it does not end up standing in waste. All of these materials are acceptable including coco coir, peat, and soil. If you want a chunkier substrate, reptile substrate bark and mulch, as well as coconut husk pieces, are also acceptable options. Your turtle requires green spaces in outdoor cages and will likely like dirty places as well. Make sure that any grass or weeds growing in the area will not harm your turtle if it consumes them.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell