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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Garter Snake

Garter snakes have adapted to many different environments in the wild including scrubland and forests and they are usually found near water. Garter snakes are commonly available as captive bred but they are also wild collected. It is strongly advised that you only obtain captive bred or rescue animals. These snakes are now available in many captive bred colour morphs.

Behaviour

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active. In the wild they are often found around water; streams, rivers, lakes and marshes.

Females are around 3ft long depending on species and males are usually 2ft or less in length. They are a fairly slim bodied snake, males more so than females. Babies are very small, average size at birth is 6-8 inches. The average lifespan in the wild may only be 4-5 years however they can live twice as long in captivity. Captives reaching over 10 years old have been documented when reptile health and wellness is prioritized along with proper snake supplies, reptile cleaning supplies, and snake habitat products.

Temperature

Naturally, garter snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 85of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Garter snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.

At night, all of the lights should go off and the enclosure should be completely dark. This should make sure that the snake has a clear day and night cycle.

During the day your temperatures will be much too warm and the heat mats thermostat should keep it off automatically. The heat mat will only begin to heat once the temperatures have dropped below 75of at night time.

Though the thermostats we sell are very reliable it is always best practice to monitor your temperatures with a thermometer. A 5of variance on the basking spot is nothing to worry about as long as your cool side is still cool. A simple dial thermometer on each side should be sufficient but digital probe thermometers are much more accurate.

Lighting

Garter snakes do not require UVB to use the calcium in their diet like other reptiles but it is still a beneficial addition to the enclosure. The snake would naturally be exposed to UV from sunlight in the wild and as we are trying to emulate nature in our enclosures, we recommend providing some UVB. A 5% T8 UVB tube, 2-5% T5 UVB tube or more powerful but smaller unit should be sufficient. The UV tube should be mounted to the ceiling at the back of the enclosure to provide a light gradient running parallel to the temperature gradient. There will be times when the snake will want less or no UVB so partial and full hiding spots should be placed all along the width of the enclosure.

Humidity

The correct humidity is essential to keep your snake’s respiratory system healthy and for normal skin shedding. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity inside the vivarium, which should be around 50 to 60%. If it is too low, you can spray it with clean water. If it is too high, the vivarium will need more ventilation.

Cleaning

Garter snakes, as with most pets, require a clean environment to thrive. We recommend a spot clean as often as possible (every day) and a full clean every 4 weeks or so. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It may still be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

When cleaning the enclosure you should remove your animal, all decorations and all of the bedding. Once the enclosure is clear you can spray it all over with a reptile friendly disinfectant. These usually work very quickly and only need to be left for around 30 seconds, instructions can normally be found on the disinfectants packaging. Once the disinfectant has done its work it can be wiped away from the surfaces with a paper towel. In some cases, you might want to repeat this process a second time to ensure that the enclosure is thoroughly cleaned.

Your decorations can be cleaned in a similar method, simply spray them down with the disinfectant and rinse thoroughly with water before drying them off and putting them back into the enclosure. We recommend this process is done during the day time to make sure that the snake will be going back to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lamps are turned off for the night.

Handling

Garter snakes are not keen on being held for long periods. However, they may allow you to hold them for short periods, after they have settled in. Never grab your snake as this could stress it and may lead to struggling, biting or musking – when a strong smell is released from the snake – normal predator avoidance behaviours. The snake can be gently scooped up supporting the whole animal. The snake should not be taken out for so long that its core temperature drops. Five to ten minutes is a safe period, depending on the temperature outside of the vivarium.

Diet

Many keepers feed adults a frozen thawed rodent only diet, which is fine because this provides complete nutrition. However in the wild garters would eat a more varied live reptile food diet consisting of worms, amphibians, fish, and rodents, so it is a good idea to provide some variety in captivity. I prefer to feed both night crawlers and rodents, which can be found in pet stores or online reptile shops. Babies are easy to start on small cut up pieces of night crawlers. Most feeder fish contain an enzyme called thiaminase, which breaks down thiamine (vitamin B1). Long term exclusive feeding of these fish should be avoided, because doing so can lead to a potentially fatal vitamin deficiency. Garters do not eat crickets, mealworms or other insects.

A water dish large enough for the snake to completely submerge in is ideal. Garters love water and will often soak, especially before shedding. A water area large enough for swimming is ideal but not necessary. Garters will sometimes defecate in water, so it is important to check and change frequently. I prefer to use 16 ounce disposable deli cups, which are replaced at least once a week. This is the bare minimum size for adults.

Substrate

There are many substrates that will work for garter snakes. Popular choices are Aspen shavings, newspaper pellets or pulp crumbles, Cypress and Coco Husk like products. Substrates to avoid are sand, clay cat litter, cedar, pine or other aromatic wood products, or dirt from outside. Newspaper or paper towels can be used for babies but are not good choices for adults. Due to garter’s high metabolism, a deeper more absorbent substrate is preferable. Also, garters like to burrow, so it is good to provide at least an inch or two of substrate. I have used newspaper pellets or pulp, aspen, and wood pellets with good results.

Conclusion

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active.

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A Complete Overlook on Captive Snakes Caring

Snakes make excellent pets. They are simple to maintain, clean, quiet and they do not require frequent engagement. They also need very little specialised equipment for optimum care and handling. It’s crucial to realise that snake care is really not something that can be generalised. Certain species require particular handling techniques, so do your study on the species to learn more about how to care for your pet snake properly. 

It’s critical to provide your snake with the best possible care by simulating its natural surroundings as nearly as possible. Investigate your snake’s native environment, such as fields, marshes, meadows, tropical woods, or deserts.

Temperature and Lighting

Snakes are cold-blooded and require a source of heat to maintain their body temperature and maintain good health. There should be a warm and a cool side to your snake’s terrarium. The majority of snakes demand a consistent temperature of 75°F to 85°F. For most of the pet snakes, keep the warm side at 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool side at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. This gradient can be maintained by under-tank heating or overhead heat bulbs. The entire terrarium should be 65-70°F at night. Tropical species require slightly greater temperatures in the basking area, up to 90°F, as well as increased humidity 75-90 %.

For maintaining this temperature, you can provide a heat bulb to top of the cage or heat tape at the bottom of the cage. An under-aquarium heating pad and an incandescent reptile light fixture with a spot light or ceramic heater can be strategically placed to achieve this. Your snake can control his own microclimate by locating the hiding spot in a cooler corner.

Housing

Aquariums with a lockable screen cover make excellent snake housing. They will keep cold-blooded animals warm while also allowing for optimal visibility and proper ventilation. Snakes use both vertical and horizontal surfaces, so there should be enough room for them to stretch out and move about freely within their enclosure. Unless you want to keep an arboreal species such as a rough green snake, a ribbon snake, or a tree boa that require height for climbing, an aquarium that is longer and deeper than it is tall is optimal. Snakes may strike or rub against the wire on the side walls of an enclosure, inflicting harm to the snake’s face or skin. Security-oriented screen covers are a must-have. Make sure the enclosure has a good locking system. Snakes can climb over glass walls, push open covers, and squeeze through small spaces, making them excellent escape artists.

Diet and Nutrition

snake-diet-mices

Snakes are all carnivorous. They eat mice, rats, chicks, fish, eggs, red worms, and crickets in captivity. Newborn snakes are preferring pinky mice. Water snakes and garters are fed nightcrawlers and minnows. Green, decay, and ringneck snakes are fed live crickets, earthworms, insects, and caterpillars. Many desert species only eat lizards, while hognose snakes only eat toads. Bird eggs, as well as birds themselves, are common foods for other species. Most snake species that consume amphibians, reptiles, or birds in their natural habitat can be trained to eat rodents. The type of diet and frequency of feeding will vary depending on the snake’s species, age, and season. Snakes should be fed once per 1 to 2 weeks in most cases. Although your snake’s jaw can expand to swallow a rodent larger than its head, it is a good rule of thumb to never feed a prey item that is substantially thicker than the snake’s thickest point. Feed frozen rats instead of live rodents whenever feasible. Live rodents, which may bite in self-defense and damage your snake, are safer and healthier to feed. Furthermore, the freezing process will have killed most internal or external parasites that the prey item may have carried. Thaw the rodent until it is slightly warmer than room temperature before feeding it to your snake. Do not allow the rodent to thaw in locations where food is prepared.

Provide a large enough water dish for the snake to soak in. This will provide lots of water for your pet, as well as serve to raise ambient humidity and aid in shedding. A water dechlorinate should be used with all tap water. Once a day, change the water.

Handling and Safety

Small snakes are generally very easy to handle. When handling your pet, avoid being overly harsh or making rapid movements to be on the safe side. You should study the behaviour of your snakes. Some snakes are active in nature who will benefit from time spent outside the vivarium exercising. Approximately 10-15 minutes 3-4 times a week is a suitable amount of time for handling these kinds of species, but this may vary depending on the particular snake. Some snakes are shy, they don’t like being handled. Give a few weeks to settle a new snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you. Snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Handle young snakes just once or twice a week. Wait a few days after feeding your snake before handing it over; this will allow the snake to digest its prey.

When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.

Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.

Cleaning

Good cleaning, care, and handling will assist to keep your pets healthy and limit the risk of your snake infecting humans. Proper care to keep your pet healthy, in addition to giving the correct feed, temperature, and humidity. Clean the enclosure on a daily basis and remove any droppings. Cleaning the branches and pebbles, changing the substrate, removing any large clumps, and wiping down the glass should all be done on a weekly basis.

Snakes should be handled with caution and under the supervision of an adult. A snake may be startled by sudden movements, forcing it to attack defensively, resulting in significant harm. After touching your snake, you should always wash your hands with antibacterial soap. Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy.

Common health issues

·   Mites: Check your snake for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for your pet snake.

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your snake is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

Enclosure

Snakes often thrive in smaller habitats. Larger dwellings may cause your pet snake to become agitated. In a 20-gallon tank, most snakes will be content. To minimise territorial disputes, difficult feeding, and even cannibalism among some snake breeds, several snakes should be maintained separately. To keep your snake from fleeing, make sure your terrarium has a secure lid.

Substrate

The type of bedding that will line your snake’s habitat is known as a substrate. A suitable substrate will maintain moisture efficiently, will not emit foul odours from uric acid absorption, and will not be easily swallowed or inhaled by your pet snake. Burrowing and non-burrowing snakes will benefit from cypress mulch, aspen shavings, and coconut fibre. They maintain humidity and manage odour inside the snake’s cage while posing no risk of impaction (constipation). Newspaper and paper towels are free solutions, but they don’t have a high moisture tolerance and aren’t suited for burrowing snakes.

Not all forms of bedding are suitable for snakes kept in captivity. Sand, is easily absorbed by your snake, causing rigid stools and constipation. Any substrate containing cedar or pine should be avoided since it emits oils that are detrimental to snakes and reptiles in general.

Conclusion

Snakes make excellent pets for experienced owners. In order to thrive, they require the right tank and temperature conditions. Proper care must be taken to keep your snake healthy. A pet snake can be the ideal pet for you if you have the necessary experience, dedication, and education.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Grey Banded Kingsnake

The gray-banded kingsnake (Lampropeltis alterna) is an excellent pet snake. It does not grow to a huge size, is a good eater on easily obtained food items, and has lovely colours. Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in west Texas, New Mexico, and northern Mexico in the wild. The gray-banded kingsnake is one of the most sought-after snakes in the world because of its extreme diversity.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in a variety of habitats. These snakes are known for being simple to tame and loyal. They’re also simple to teach, particularly when it comes to feeding times and routines.

Gray-banded kingsnakes are available in a wide range of hues, from sparkling light grey and orange to darker variants. Gray-banded kingsnakes range in size from hatchlings of 10 inches to adults of more than 3 feet. They have a 15-year lifespan. Gray-banded kingsnakes can live up to thirty years if you give them the greatest possible care.

Temperature Requirements

During the day, grey-banded king snakes require temperatures between 84-90 degrees. Temperatures should be between 68 and 75 degrees at night. If you keep your snake too cool, it will regurgitate, so keep the daytime temperatures consistent. If your snake is continually moving in its enclosure and finds it difficult to settle, adjust the temperature on both ends gradually. Using temperatures to help your snake’s health is another option. During the winter, lower the temperature even further. This will provide the snake with a climate that is comparable to that of its natural habitat.

Humidity

Humidity should be kept low to avoid respiratory issues. Gray Banded King Snakes require around 60% humidity. Place a damp plastic box with damp paper towels inside to keep humidity. The cover should have a hole the same size as your pet’s, and it will also help to increase humidity in the living space. You also can provide a water bowl or small dish.

Lighting

When it comes to lighting, kingsnakes don’t normally rely on it, and they don’t usually engage in basking behaviours. Extra heat sources, such as hot lights or specialised bulbs, are not necessary. If you want then you can install UVB lighting as a supplementary heat source.

Handling

Gray-banded kingsnakes normally don’t mind being handled gently. If your snake has a strong feeding reaction, gently nudge it with an inert object before reaching into its enclosure to avoid it from mistaking your hand for food (such as forceps). This informs the snake that it is not time to eat.

Allow a gray-banded kingsnake to slither around in your palms without being constrained. Don’t hold on to it too closely. You can get a slight nip if you try to detain the snake too violently, or the snake may exude musk to show its dissatisfaction. So that your snake does not feel intimidated, always support it with both hands.

Cleaning

As needed, the terrarium should be cleaned. Several times a week, any faeces should be wiped out. Once a month, the bedding should be fully replaced, and fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A suitable reptile cage cleaner can be used to clean the inside of the terrarium. King snakes can be handled on a daily basis, but wash your hands thoroughly before and after touching them.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Gray-banded kingsnakes prefer to eat mice and other common reptile diets. However, a few lizards might be helpful to get them started. Then introduce them to mice and rats, which will be their sole source of nutrition for the rest of their lives. Feed the hatchlings a pink mouse that isn’t dressed. Adult gray-banded kingsnakes eat small adult mice, while juvenile gray-banded kingsnakes eat fuzzy baby mice.

Potential Health Issue

Mites

Mites are small black parasites that grow on and feed on the blood of your King Snake. Mites are generally seen around the eyes, mouth, and under the scales of a King Snake that has caught them. During a mite infection, your snake will appear lethargic and may refuse to eat. If you find mites on your King snake, bathe it in warm water immediately and thoroughly sanitise the tank and contents.

Respiratory Infections

R.Is is a bacterial infection induced by poor cage conditions, low temperatures, or excessive humidity, but it can also be spread from snake to snake. Excess saliva and nasal discharge can make king snakes sound wheezy. Very mild R.Is may go away themselves If the snake’s living conditions are improved, it may go away on its own, but major illnesses should be treated by a veterinarian right enough to avoid Mouth Rot or even death.

Regurgitation

Regurgitation can be a sign of a variety of digestive issues, illnesses, and stress. If a King Snake is handled too soon after a feeding or if it is fed an item that is too large for it, it may regurgitate its food. In this situation, you should give the snake a week to settle down before feeding it again. If your King Snake regurgitates its food frequently, loses a lot of weight, or shows any other indicators that concern you, seek medical help as soon as possible.

Substrate Nature

You can utilise shavings, paper towels, and newspapers as terrarium substrates. It is necessary to spot-clean the substrates at least twice a week and to change the full set of substrates every two months to preserve cleanliness. Allowing dirty substrates to remain in the enclosure for an extended period of time will lead to the growth of hazardous germs, which can cause snake illnesses or even death. No Cedar or Redwood Shavings should be used in predator or prey enclosures since they are poisonous to all animals. Cedar and redwood should not be utilised in the construction of animal housing, nor in any furniture or panelling in a vivarium that houses animals.

To clean the terrarium, combine 95 percent water, 5% bleach, and a few drops of liquid soap. This solution must be used to thoroughly clean the cage before installing the new substrates. Clean the snake’s water bowl and hiding spot with this solution as well. Before returning everything to the cave, make sure it is completely dry.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut husk is a light, easy-to-clean, and appealing material. It is more expensive than other substrates. It absorbs odours and binds them to the substrate. It’s a non-toxic, dust-free substrate that’s completely chemical-free. It doesn’t mould and absorbs a lot of moisture.

Aspen Shavings

For King Snakes, aspen shavings can be used. As its shavings cannot be cleaned, they must be removed and replaced with new shavings as they become dirty. If you’re using aspen shavings, you may scoop out the urine and excrement with a cat litter scoop and replace it with fresh aspen as needed. Remove any soiled substrate as soon as possible; urine-soaked material may serve as a breeding ground for bacteria, potentially harming your King Snake. You must feed your snake in a secure environment if you use this type of substrate; you do not want it to consume any of the shavings.

Newspaper

For years, animal keepers have used layers of newspaper. When multiple layers are utilised, it is relatively absorbent and affordable to replace. The inks used in printing, on the other hand, are known to be toxic to animals. Unprinted sheets are available from moving supply stores, and roll ends are available from some newspaper companies. When multiple sheets are used, it is relatively absorbent, similar to printed newspaper, especially when layered with paper towels. Unprinted sheets and rolls, unlike printed newspaper, are free of potentially toxic inks that could injure your King Snake.

Beech Chippings

Beech Chippings are widely accessible at most reptile stores and make for a beautiful vivarium substrate. It’s available in three sizes i.e. small, medium, and large, so you may pick the one that’s right for your snake. Although it is not as absorbent as Aspen, it allows for spot cleaning. Burrowing snakes do not prefer it as a substrate.

Astroturf / Artificial Grass

The first artificial grass floor covering was Astroturf. Since then, carpet producers have released a variety of artificial grass grades. In most hardware stores, there are two or more grades. The cheapest option is usually the best to use. It’s more adaptable, which is important for complete cleaning and disinfection. Pieces can be washed and disinfected multiple times before needing to be replaced. Astroturf® is affordable enough that several pieces for each enclosure can be cut and rotated every cleaning day. Many pet shops and mail order pet suppliers sell fake grass substrate in small, packed pieces that are identical to the stuff found in building supply stores.

Conclusion

One of the snake species that can be kept as pets is the gray-banded kingsnake. They don’t get very big, and they’re usually simple to feed. These harmless snakes are not venomous and pose no threat to people.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Gopher Snake

Gopher snakes are from the western coast of America and they are fairly large snakes. Gopher snakes are very curious and active snakes. They are perfect pets for beginning caretakers. They are generally found on the western coast of America in arid meadows, fields and farmland.

Table of contents

Behaviour

They have quite a narrow head and are a little heavier than other snakes of the same species. They’re usually beige or light yellow in colour, with black or dark brown stripes spanning the length of the snake. These snakes can live upto 25 years with prior care, without care and all their living margins at 15 years. In captivity, they have an average lifespan of 20 to 25 years. They rarely live past 15 years in the wild, with a lifespan of 12 to 15 years. With these snakes, you need to be sure and committed before acquiring one as they live long.

Temperature Requirements

As a western coast American snake, the Gopher snake doesn’t need high temperatures to thrive. They require a temperature of about 79 F. A basking spot is necessary when it comes to Gopher snakes. The temperature of the basking place might reach 85 degrees F. The warm spots are supposed to be at the end of the enclosure, which creates a gradient in temperature where the temperature drops as the snake moves away from the basking spot. The warm end of the enclosure will be around 85 degrees Fahrenheit, while the cool end will be around 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Heating mats or ceramic bulbs can be used to keep the area warm.

Humidity

humidity-temperature-measure

Because the Gopher snake thrives at regular room humidity between 40% and 60%, there is no need to mist the enclosure or provide a humidifier. The only time they’ll need a lot of water is when they’re shedding. A humid box which is a hide box with a moist substrate like damp paper towels, can aid in the snake’s shedding.

It is essential to provide clean water to the snake at all times. This water should preferably be chlorine-free. The water bowl must be hefty and solid to prevent the snake from tipping it over and spilling the contents. The water should be changed on a regular basis to ensure that it is always clean and free of faeces and other foreign stuff.

Lighting

Since the Gopher snake eats whole prey such as rodents, they do not need vitamin D3 supplements or UVB lights. They get all of their nutrition from the rodents they eat. You must maintain a day-night cycle. There is no need for lighting if the enclosure is put in a room that gets plenty of natural light.

If the enclosure does not get any natural light, you can use fluorescent lighting to illuminate it. The light needs to be on for 12 hours and off for 2 hours.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Gopher snakes have ferocious appetites. In captivity, they feed readily and grow quickly. For the first month of their lives, you can feed two or three pink mice every four days. For about five months, you move them up to two fuzzy mice twice a week and then to hopper mice twice a week for the next six months. The snake should reach close to 3 feet long after a year and capable of eating one or two adult mice or smaller rats once a week. Instead of many mice, one mid-sized to large rat may be provided each week in the second and third years, as the snakes attain sexual maturity.

Handling

Gopher snakes are usually curious creatures, active in their daytime and will roam around to explore new things in their surroundings. Most are completely calm and don’t make a fuss when they’re being handled. Gophers rarely bite in defence, although they do have small teeth and are capable. Hatchlings are very sensitive, but most snakes calm down with regular handling over time.

When held, they tend to stay active, but you may keep them in place by switching hands underneath them as they move. As they aren’t always the finest climbers, make care to support their weight for them, and avoid handling them while they’re in the shed or after a meal.

Housing

When it reaches adulthood, the gopher snake can grow to be fairly enormous. Specimens up to 7′ in length are not rare. As a result, you’ll need a cage that’s the right size for your snake. A baby or juvenile can be kept in a smaller terrarium. An adult Gopher snake should require a 4’ x 2’ size cage or larger. You have to clean the entire cage at least once a month. Clean all the feces daily and remove the shed skin.

Cleaning

To thrive, Gopher snakes require a clean environment. A spot in the cage should be cleaned every day and the full cage should be cleaned every 4 weeks. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It can be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

Substrate Nature

Because the Gopher snake prefers dry environments, you won’t have to worry about maintaining a high level of humidity. As a result, a moisture-retaining substrate is not required. Old newspaper or paper towels make wonderful substrates for newborns and juveniles. They are cheap, accessible, and easy to clean/change. Adults do well on paper as well. The biggest disadvantage of paper is that it is unattractive.

Calcium sand is another wonderful option. When consumed, unlike real sand, it does not cause compaction. It also adds to the enclosure’s beauty by resembling desert sand.

Also, aspen bedding, corn cob granules, coconut chipping or cypress mulch are good bedding options. In fact, any substrate can be used apart from cedar or pine since these are toxic to snakes. The snake may burrow into the substrate if it is only a few inches deep.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut Husk is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

·       Retain moisture

·       It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

·       Costly

·       Mites thrive in cypress mulch 

Newspaper and paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. Paper towels can work superior for small cages. It is versatile and it can be placed on the bottom of the cage. Newborn snakes love newspapers. Adults can’t easily burrow in newspapers, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Wet or damp newspapers and paper towels can cause skin infection in the snakes. To avoid these, replace wet newspapers with fresh newspapers.

Advantages:

·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings are inexpensive, easy to replace, and aesthetically pleasing. Snakes are also really simple to burrow through. Furthermore, aspen shavings allow for good ventilation in the cage. Keep in mind that if the chips are too small, the yellow rat snake is more likely to swallow them whole while feeding. If you are using this bedding then feed your snakes outside of the enclosure.

Advantages:

·       It is not too expensive.

·       Snakes are easily burrowed in it.

·       It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

·       It needs to change completely more often.

Sand

For Gopher snakes, sand is a more appealing substrate than newspaper or paper towels. It comes in a range of hues to match your decor design and may be purchased at pet stores. It makes a beautiful enclosure and creates a dessert look. Snakes may burrow in sand, but if the sand is consumed, it will harm your snake. 

Advantages:

·       Create beautiful and attractive enclosure.

·       Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Disadvantages:

·       It is bad for your snake if the sand is swallowed.

Conclusion

Gopher snakes usually learn to trust people over time and most aren’t shy about exploring your world or demanding food. That behaviour is what makes gopher snakes one of the most engaging snakes to keep!

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rattlesnake

Rattlesnakes have unique behaviours that make it a very good pet besides the fact that its bright green colours are a sight to see.

The rattlesnake has a triangular shaped head and is a heavy bodied snake. On each side of its face, there are two dark diagonal lines starting from its eyes to its jaws. There are dark diamond-shaped patterns on its back. Just above the rattles, there are black and white bands on its tail.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Rattlesnake is an extremely arboreal reptile by nature, so it spends its entire day on top of a branch or an elevated spot. When it is hunting or when it needs to drink water, it goes down to the ground because this reptile is somewhat shy and feels safe on top of a branch or any other similar elevated spot in its enclosure.

Rattlesnake is one of the largest members of anole species and their overall size is usually upto 1.5 feet long. The Western Diamondback Rattlesnake has a lifespan of about 8 to 12 years. Most Western Diamondback Rattlesnakes that live under human control usually live an average of about 8.3 years. As long as they are given the proper care and nutrition, these reptiles can live for more than 12 years.

Temperature Requirements

Environments that are warm and tropical are preferred by Rattlesnakes. Use lighting sources such as a UVB lamp or an incandescent heat lamp to provide your reptile with the heat or warmth it needs. Temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees should be there in the coldest portion of the entire enclosure. For achieving this temperature UVB lamp should be beneficial because it does not produce a lot of heat.

humidity-temperature-measure

However, because the Rattlesnake wants a basking place after eating, there should be a fairly hot portion in the enclosure. The temperature in the enclosure’s warmest section should be between 95 and 100 degrees. This hot spot is most likely directly beneath the heat lamp, as that is where the most of the heat it produces should be.

Humidity

When it comes to humidity, Rattlesnakes demand a humid environment with humidity levels ranging from 50% to 80%. To reach these humidity levels, mist the snake’s enclosure with water on a frequent basis. As a result, the habitat might remain moist and humid. The best technique to provide the Rattlesnake with the water it requires for drinking is to mist it. A water dish can also keep humidity levels up, even if it doesn’t serve many uses in terms of your snake’s hydration needs. The simplest way to tell if the enclosure is humid is to look at the substrate and see if it remains damp or moist.

Lighting

If you want to provide good lighting to your Rattlesnake then there are two types of lights available. The first should be a UVB light that gives your snake vitamin D3. This permits it to better digest calcium, lowering the chances of it developing metabolic bone disease. Another type of light in the enclosure should be a strong heat lamp that supplies the majority of the light and heat. The main aim of a heat lamp is to maintain a natural light schedule for your snake.

Cleaning

For keeping your Rattlesnake away from harmful illness or health problems it is important to provide clean and sanitary habitat. Whenever you find faeces or anything nasty, make sure to spot clean the enclosure. However, once a month, properly clean the habitat to kill off germs, moulds, and other hazardous microorganisms. You may make a sanitizing solution with water and vinegar.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

Rattlesnakes eat a wide variety of prey, including lizards, frogs, and rodents of many kinds. Mice and rats are eaten by tiny individuals, while squirrels and small rabbits are eaten by adults. It usually does not contain large parasite burdens, unlike some other rattlesnake species, though all specimens should be tested by a qualified veterinarian. Wormers and other drugs will be administered through the diet.

Substrate Nature

Rattlesnake rarely spends time on the ground due to its arboreal nature, you should provide a decent substrate in its enclosure to act as bedding and to keep things moist. Cypress mulch is a good choice since it maintains moisture effectively, but newspapers or coco fibre are other good options. Use of fertilised garden soil sparingly since it may hurt the Rattlesnake if it swallows it accidently while feeding.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut fibre is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

·       Retain moisture

·       It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

·       Costly

·       Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Newspaper and paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. Paper towels can work superior for small cages. It is versatile and it can be placed on the bottom of the cage. Newborn snakes love newspapers. Adults can’t easily burrow in newspapers, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Wet or damp newspapers and paper towels can cause skin infection in the snakes. To avoid these, replace wet newspapers with fresh newspapers.

Advantages:

·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

The Rattlesnake is quite simple to care for in terms of maintenance. Rattlesnake does not like to be handled, they are not the best pets for beginners who enjoy handling their reptiles. Be careful while handling Rattlesnakes, they may bite you because of their shy tendencies. Proper diet and right enclosure must be provided to the snake for their health.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Yellow Rat Snake

The yellow rat snakes can be found in the wild from southeastern South Carolina to Florida’s southern tip. The yellow rat snake is the southeastern representative of black rat snake. Once they’ve been accustomed to being handled and you’ve become used to dealing, yellow rat snakes make excellent pets.

Yellow rat snakes are attractive animals that come in a range of colours and experience significant colour changes as they age. In the wild, they are a powerful constrictor that can easily overcome its prey of rodents and the rare bird.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Yellow rat snakes are non-venomous. Yellow rat snakes are nocturnal creatures that are most active at night time, from dusk until late at night/early in the morning. Yellow rat snakes may prefer to hunt during the day or at night, depending on their location.

Apart from their hunting preferences, the habits and behaviour of yellow rat snakes do greatly depend on where they originate from. For instance, yellow rat snakes found in the south are known to be more aggressive than those inhabiting the northern regions.

Yellow rat snakes normally grow to be 5 to 7 feet long, while they have been known to grow to be as long as ten feet.

A yellow rat snake can live for 17 to 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

Yellow stripe rat snakes require a warm basking spot during the day. They require warmer temperatures of 85-degree F to 90-degree F. Yellow stripe rat snakes need a little drop in temperature and complete darkness at night. The night time temperature should be 80-degree F. A clear spot bulb at one end of the terrarium is used to achieve this temperature. Also heat mat can be beneficial. It is important that the temperature should always be controlled by a high quality thermostat. The thermostat will automatically turn on at night when the temperature in the vivarium drops. A thermometer should be used to check the temperature on a daily basis.

Humidity

As far as humidity levels are concerned, yellow rat snakes. Humidity levels of 40% to 50% are ideal for keeping a yellow rat snake as a pet. By simply placing a large water bowl within the cage, these levels can be easily achieved. You can use a mister or a fogger if you observe that humidity levels are decreasing below 40% despite having placed a large water bowl inside the tank. To maintain proper humidity, use a pump sprayer every four days with five to ten pumps.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

It is simple to feed a yellow rat snake. Adult yellow rat snakes eat rats, rodents and chicks. Young yellow rat snakes may prefer tree frogs and lizards for their first several meals. For hatchlings you can feed them pinky mice.

Despite the fact that rat snakes can swallow huge prey, they can regurgitate a hefty meal due to temperature changes or fear. The largest meal you serve your snake should not be larger than its head diameter.

Even domesticated yellow rat snakes can bite at feeding time, so be cautious while approaching them. Avoid offering live food to your snake as a live rodent can hurt or even kill your snake. It is best to feed the snake’s deceased prey.

Housing

The enclosure for yellow stripe rat snakes is a wooden vivarium. This is because wood is a good heat insulator, therefore a wooden vivarium will make it easier to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. Glass terrariums, for example, are significantly too efficient in releasing heat. To allow air to move in and out of the cage, the wooden vivarium should have adequate ventilation.

As Yellow rat snakes are large in size, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long. To live happily, they require a comparable quantity of room. A suitable length of vivarium is required to allow for the establishment of a temperature gradient. The enclosure should be warm at one end and cool at the other, with enough distance between them for the temperature to drop.

Breeding

If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. You do not need to do anything to encourage this, provided they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. A gravid female should be able to lay her eggs in a nesting box. The box should be spacious enough for her to spin around completely within. To keep the box damp and humid, you can use moss.

Incubate the eggs at 84 degrees Fahrenheit in an incubator. To keep the humidity around the eggs, we incubate them in enclosed boxes on a moist substrate. The eggs will begin to hatch after around 60 days, and the first babies to emerge will urge the rest of the eggs to hatch.

Handling

The rules for handling a yellow rat snake are patience, persistence, and care, at least if you don’t want to get bitten. Snakes usually react defensively to quick motion, but they tolerate slow motion. They are normally suspicious of movement above them, but not so much of movement from the side.

Do not hold your snake’s neck with your hands. Instead, place one hand about a third of the way back from the head and the other a quarter of the way forward from the tail tip under it. Lift the snake carefully while holding it loosely. Always keep it away from your face.

Do not lift them for a few days after they have eaten. You may train your snake to accept handling without biting it. When you’re trying to get your yellow rat snake acclimated to being handled, gently lift it once or twice a day until it gets the hang of it. Allow your snake to calm down before attempting again.

Substrate Nature

Yellow rat snakes enjoy exploring their surroundings as much as burrowing. You should choose a substrate that allows these playful serpents to follow their natural tendencies while also being hypoallergenic and simple to clean and maintain. There are a number of substrate suits for your pet snake. Aspen shaving is one of the most popular options. Coconut fiber is natural and chemical free bedding for your snake. Newspapers are fairly reliable for snakes. Must avoid cedar and pine bedding as they are toxic to snakes.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut fibre is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·       Highly comfortable material for snakes

·       Odor and Dust free

·       Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

·       Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

·       Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Newspaper

Newspapers provide an easily replaceable, low-cost substrate that the snake can burrow and dig through. On the drawback, newspapers absorb both must and feces, resulting in a stench that lingers in the tank if the substrate is not changed as soon as possible. When it comes to juvenile yellow rat snakes, newspapers should be replaced even more regularly, as juveniles have been known to musk at even the little threat.

Advantages:

·       It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·       It is affordable.

·       It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·       Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·       Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings are inexpensive, easy to replace, and aesthetically pleasing. Snakes are also really simple to burrow through. Furthermore, aspen shavings allow for good ventilation in the cage. Keep in mind that if the chips are too small, the yellow rat snake is more likely to swallow them whole while feeding. If you are using this bedding then feed your snakes outside of the enclosure.

Advantages:

·       It is not too expensive.

·       Snakes are easily burrowed in it.

·       It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

·       It needs to change completely more often.

Conclusion:

Yellow rat snakes are non-venomous and they are truly attractive species. Once they’ve been accustomed to being handled and you’ve become used to dealing, yellow rat snakes make excellent pets.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Burmese Python

One of the largest snakes to slither on this Earth is the Burmese Python. They are mostly found in southeast Asia and span across Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and southeastern China. Burmese Python make an excellent pet because of their docile nature and undemanding requirements.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Burmese Python snakes are stunning creatures with brown and black patterns. They are popular for their attractive appearance, as well as their large size and a calm nature. They are great pets for the right owners. They are however unsuitable for beginners and are better left in the wild. They’re large snakes that are both costly to keep and potentially dangerous. You have to make sure that you have enough space to keep Burmese Python. Owner needs to be very careful when handling Burmese Python, owners have died due to mishandling these kinds of snakes.

Size and Longevity

Burmese Pythons are one of the largest python species in the world. Generally, females are larger than males and they can grow up to 15 feet. Males are somewhat smaller and more slightly built. In captivity, some Burmese pythons have grown to be over 20 feet long and weigh well over 200 pounds. With proper care these snakes can live well over 20 years. There are some reports of specimens living nearly 40 years.

Burmese Python Growth Chart

Age SizeWeight

Hatchlings
10-30 inches
100-115 grams
3 months16-40 inches 190-650 grams
9 months40-50 inches570-780 grams

Temperature Requirements

Burmese pythons are typically tropical species, it is important to keep these snakes warmer. These snakes require a basking spot of 31 to 33°C with a thermal gradient fading to about 28°C at the cooler end of the enclosure. To maintain this temperature you can use basking lights, infrared bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heating pads.

Humidity

Burmese Pythons humidity should be around 50-60% which can be increased whilst shedding. When they are shedding, a regular misting with tepid water can be provided. A 20-to-30-minute soak in warm water during shedding may also be beneficial to your snake. You can provide a water bowl in a cage but make sure they always have clean water. Hand misting is usually beneficial. If you maintain a humidity level of around 65%, your snake will be able to shed in a healthy way.

Lighting

Burmese Python are tropical species so it is important that they are kept properly warm. During the day, cage temperatures should be in the mid-80s and at night, that should not be lower than 80. During the day, specific basking locations within the enclosure should reach or slightly surpass 95 degrees. Make sure the enclosure has a thermal gradient, with one end warmer than the other, giving the snake a range of temperatures to choose from depending on its demands at any given time.

For Burmese python, no special lighting is required but basic fluorescent bulbs or any heat bulb that gives visible light in addition to heat can be used during the day.

Handling

Usually, Burmese Pythons are large in size. Smaller pythons can be handled freely, but it is recommended that snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. When a snake reaches the length of 8 feet, at least two people should be present when it is out. While these animals are usually gentle, they are still unpredictable and powerful. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Housing

Hatchling Burmese Python can be kept in small cages, secure tubs with a hide on one side and a water bowl on the other. But adults require a lot of room space. For male Burmese Python needs an enclosure size of 6ftx2ftx2ft and females will most likely need an 8ftx3ftx2ft enclosure. Burmese pythons are extremely powerful snakes that require a very secure housing. If glass is used in the enclosure, thick laminate glass is recommended as a minimum, with toughened glass being preferred. This will take time and money, so consider your options carefully before purchasing one of these creatures.

Cleaning

Maintain proper temperature, daylight hours and a good nesting location to keep your Python healthy. Cleaning is essential to prevent health problems. Good husbandry and hygiene can be helpful for keeping your snake healthy. Make sure that you keep the enclosure clean. Clean the cage on a regular basis and replace the water. Don’t let the tank’s size deter you from cleaning it!

Burmese Pythons usually defecate 8-14 days after eating and their faeces should be brown and solid. You should take advantage of this opportunity to clean the area more thoroughly and replace the substrate. Their massive cage needs a consistent cleaning routine.

Diet

Snakes should be given defrosted rodent prey of proper size. You can feed them mice, rats and rabbits. Food for Burmese Pythons should be large enough to leave a visible lump in the snake’s belly. Must avoid live food. Newborn Burmese Pythons can eat fuzzy rats or adult mice for first feed. You can feed them every 5 to 7 days a week. As they grow you can increase the size of prey. Adult snakes require a large meal every 4 to 5 weeks to avoid becoming overweight. 

Breeding

You do not need to do anything to encourage this, provided they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. A gravid female should be able to lay her eggs in a nesting box. The box should be wide enough for her to spin around completely within. To keep the box damp and humid, you can use moss.

Incubate the eggs at 84o Fahrenheit in an incubator. To keep the humidity around the eggs, we incubate them in enclosed boxes on a moist substrate. The eggs will begin to hatch after around 60 days, and the first babies to emerge will urge the rest of eggs to hatch.

Substrate Nature

There are a wide range of substrates available for Burmese Pythons. The bedding should be one that is easy to clean and helpful for maintaining humidity levels. Newspaper is absorbent, fairly sterile and readily available. Various woods, shavings and shredded substrate products are acceptable too, although they tend to foul in moist environments. Paper is also an option as it is cheap, easy to clean and hygienic. Aspen shaving or cypress shaving is your best option, being fairly cheap and pleasant looking. Pine and cedar shaving must be avoided as they are toxic to snakes.

Substrate Types

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate for your snake. You can use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. It is soft and comfortable pet bedding. It is super absorbent, chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding. This bedding easily gets moldy. Too much moisture can cause material particles to get under a large snake’s belly scales, causing irritation.

Advantages:

•         Affordable.

•         Excellent absorbing and clean-up.

•         Snakes like to burrow in this.

Disadvantages:

•         May need to be changed more often.

•           It easily gets moldy.

Cypress Shavings

Cypress Mulch is slightly similar to the Aspen shaving. It is made up of small pieces of wood. It looks attractive and helps to create a natural looking enclosure. It helps to retain moisture. It does not mold easily. Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Advantages:

•         It retains moisture.

•         It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

•         It is an expensive bedding option.

•         Mites thrive in cypress mulch.

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut husk bedding is a completely natural and organic bedding material for your snakes. It is an easily available and low-cost alternative. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

·        Highly comfortable material for snakes.

·        Odor and Dust free.

·        Natural and Organic material. 

Disadvantages:

·        Doesn’t retain humidity much longer.

·        Large pieces of husk can cause irritation.

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. For small cages, paper towels can work superior. It’s versatile and you can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. It’s not easy to burrow in a newspaper but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the snakes.

Advantages:

·        It is affordable.

·        It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

·        More suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

·        Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

·        Wet or damp newspapers can cause skin irritation for snakes.

Conclusion

Burmese pythons are enormous, gorgeous snakes that can be handled if help is always available while handling adult specimens. This species is docile in general and makes excellent pets. With the exception of feeding time, they are usually slow-moving snakes. If they are not handled or dealt with priority, it can be dangerous.

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Corn Snake

Corn snakes are the most popular snake for their own good reasons. They make an excellent pet. Their extremely gorgeous colours and patterns are eye-catching. Corn snakes are calm, docile and relatively easy to handle. Because of their gentle nature, they make fantastic choices as pet snakes for beginner snake owners. They are native to the south-eastern United States, are mostly land-dwelling and are active mainly at night or at dusk and dawn.

Table of contents

Behaviour 

corn snake in wild

Corn snakes are large snakes as they hatch from egg  8 to 12 inches and reach 4 to 5.5 feet in their adulthood. Corn snakes can live into their late teens and perhaps their early twenties if they are properly cared for. They can reproduce until they are 10 to 12 years old, and occasionally even longer. Corn snakes, often called red rat snakes as they are  orange or brownish-yellow snakes with a pattern of large red blotches outlined in black down their backs. They are appealingly slender.  

The alternatingly black and white marks like a checkerboard pattern, runs along their bellies. Corn snakes show considerable variations in their color and pattern depending on their age and geographic location.

Temperature Requirements

Corn snakes are most active around night time therefore additional light is not required so natural cycle of lights is enough. Corn snakes are cold-blooded or ectothermic. They require a temperature gradient consisting of a warm side 81o F to 86o F and cool side 74o F to 78o F. Corn Snakes tend to use heat from the ground. 

For maintaining these temperatures you need to use some external heating elements. Heat pads are recommended in order to keep corn snakes warmer. Also heat bulbs can be used for heating. Infrared Ceramic Heat Emitter with thermostat is also used for maintaining  these levels of temperature.

Humidity

humidity-temperature-measure

Corn snakes prefer to live between the average humidity of 65-75%. The right level of humidity is necessary to prevent dehydration, maintain respiratory health and facilitate proper shedding. These tips will help you maintain healthy humidity levels in your snake enclosures. 

  • Make use of dry substrate like aspen and lignocel. 
  • Provide a clean and chemical-free surrounding of leaf-litter on top of substrate. 
  • Mist the enclosure on a daily basis. 
  • For better results, install a cool mist humidifier at night.

Lighting

Corn snakes are mostly daylight dwellers. They need a distinct day/night cycle in captivity. For regulating your snake’s natural biorhythms and encouraging them on natural behaviors, you need to provide them with terrarium-specific lighting. Corn snakes require 12 hours of lighting per day. 

To promote more natural hormonal rhythms in your snake and for better overall health results, provide them with a seasonal light cycle. Providing UVB can be very beneficial for a snake’s mental and physical health. If you are providing UVB then, use a T5 HO UVB fluorescent tube and replace it every 12 months.

Corn snakes don’t require nighttime lighting such as colored bulbs. If you are providing nighttime lighting to your snakes then stop, because it may damage your snake’s eyesight and/or mental health.

Handling 

snake-handling

Corn Snakes are quite active snakes and to exercise they will appreciate time outside the vivarium. Give support to your Corn snake at all times to avoid dropping them. Give a few weeks to settle a new Corn snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your Corn snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you.

Depending on the particular snake, A suitable handling time for your Corn snake is 3-4 times in a week for approximately 10-15 minutes. Some Corn snakes may shy from regular handling while some may enjoy more time outside the vivarium. Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.

Cleaning

Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy. Bedding makes it easy to clean feces. You have to remove faces daily that you see. Cleaning the spot of your snake should be done lightly once a week. You can replace the top 1 inch of bedding in a week.  Weekly sanitation is must recommended to keep your snake environment hygienic. 

Cage Maintenance

As Corn snakes excrete small amounts of semi-solid fluid, they require least maintenance. For quick cleaning of feces, use Aspen and other similar substrates. The entire cage and all the accessories should be washed out once after 4-5 months with a gentle soap and the used bedding should be completely thrown out. If you are using paper towels then change them once a week.

Diet

snake-diet-mices

The primary natural food of Corn Snake  is mice and rats. The size of prey depends upon the girth of the snake. Must avoid feeding your Corn Snake anything bigger than the thickest part of its body. Some baby snakes can eat lizards and occasional frogs. Adult snakes can also eat birds or their eggs. You can feed baby corn snakes once every 5 to 7 days and feed adults once every 7 to 10 days.

Substrate Nature

Aspen is the most commonly used bedding type for snakes, as it allows them to burrow easily. Corn snakes require just an inch depth of substrate to burrow in. Younger ones easily get adjusted to a new substrate while it may take some time for the adult ones to feel comfortable to settle in. You may add even more bedding to increase the depth and feel more comfortable.

Usually, corn snakes use bedding to protect their bellies as they slide around. But they love to feel of burrowing. Coconut husk is one such completely natural and organic bedding that is non-toxic and gives off a cosy feel to snakes. Never use cedar or pine shaving. 

Its aromatic oils can cause irritation and respiratory issues in your snake. Cleaning is essential. Substrates should be completely replaced every 7 to 8 weeks.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

Coconut husk bedding is a completely natural and organic bedding material for your corn snakes. It is an easily available and low cost alternative. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic material
coconut-coir-husk

Disadvantages:

  • Doesn’t retain humidity much longer
  • Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Aspen Bedding

Aspen Bedding is the most popular bedding option for corn snakes. It is an ideal substrate and affordable so you can completely replace it. This is natural bedding which is made up of shaved aspen wood. It absorbs odours and prevents odour from waste. It is perfectly safe for your pet snake.

Advantages:

  • It is not too expensive.
  • Snakes are easily burrowed in it.
  • It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

  • It needs to change completely more often.

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is slightly similar to the Aspen shaving. It is made up of small pieces of wood. It looks attractive and it helps to create a natural looking enclosure. It helps to retain moisture. It does not mold easily. Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Advantages:

  • It doesn’t mold.
  • It retains moisture.
  • It helps to create a natural looking enclosure.

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspaper covers are the cheap and easy-to-use substrate type. It works best for the small cages. Newborn snakes love the soft texture of paper, but adults can’t easily burrow in newspaper. Wet or the damp newspaper and towels can cause skin infections to snake skin. So replace the wet newspaper with fresh newspaper.

Advantages:

  • It is one of the most versatile bedding options.
  • It is affordable.
  • It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

  • Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.
  • Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Conclusion

Corn snakes burrow in the wild, so they should be allowed to do so in captivity. The best choice for snake bedding is Coconut Husk. Coconut Husk  is soft enough not to hurt your snake and it holds its shape when burrowed into. It is highly absorbent and looks better than other bedding types. However, the best choice for you and your snake is felt as per your convenience and needs. Types and depth of the bedding substrate is significantly important for your snake health and happiness. 

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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Green Tree Python

There are few other snakes that will receive more nervous glances from guests than the green tree python. They look more deadly than the truly venomous green tree viper.  But in reality, they are harmless. These arboreal snakes do spend a great deal of time in trees, but are active animals that need space to move and groove on the ground as well.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Although a bright neon green is a predominant colour in adults, they can also come in a wide variety of other colours. Hatchlings usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long, growing between 4 and 6 feet as adults, with females being thicker and longer than males. They can live up to 20 years of age with proper care.

These snakes have a reputation for being aggressive. Actually, the times they strike at handlers is when they are being approached from above or yanked aggressively from a limb. There are simple ways that a handler can prevent a crabby snake attack. Correct habitat design is one way, and will be discussed below.

Another way to keep your snake’s temper sweet is to always approach the animal from below. Imagine yourself sunning on a lounger beside the ocean, dozing off now and then in the pleasant warmth. Suddenly, a giant hand descends from the clouds to snatch you up and take you somewhere else that you may not want to be! You’d be crabby too.

Although this pet may not be a good choice for a hasty or thoughtless pet keeper, mindful handling generally prevents most snake and handler disagreements. With that being said, some races are just naturally more aggressive than others, such as the colourful Biak locality type. If ease of handling is important, then the potential python owner needs to consult with various breeders.  Those breeders will inform you which species have the most placid temperaments.

Most green tree pythons can be expected to live into their mid-teens with good care. A few have even made it into their mid-20s.

Temperature Requirements

Green trees originate from the rainforest, and they need it to be fairly humid. Like all reptiles, they are dependent on external thermoregulation to control their body temperature. This essentially means you need to provide a hot and a cool side to your enclosure. All the heat elements should be on one side and the other will then be the cool side. This way your green tree can move back and forth between the different temperatures depending on its needs.

The hot side basking spot should be at 86-88 degrees. The cool side can be between 78-80 degrees. At night, it can drop down to 72 ambient temperatures. The basking light should be housed in a good quality light dome like Exo Terra and Flukers that has a ceramic housing to tolerate high heat and an on/off switch. 

Humidity

The green tree python requires high relative humidity levels to thrive. The humidity levels need not drop below 40 percent. As a species native to tropical rainforest, the tree python experiences rain almost every day throughout the year. Similarly, you need to mist the enclosure daily using a spray bottle. The enclosure needs to dry between sprayings.

The snake will drink the water droplets on the leaves, and side of the cage. However, you need to provide a water bowl. The bowl should be heavy and sturdy so it is not easily overturned.

Lighting

As with most snakes, special UVB lighting is optional. However, to maintain the vivid green coloration of this python, it is a good idea to use a full spectrum light if the snake’s enclosure does not receive sunlight. An excellent full-spectrum light that also provides warmth is the Evergreen 100 Watt UVA/UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb which has already been mentioned. You can use a heat lamp that provides full-spectrum light. The lights need to be on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.

Handling

Green tree pythons have gotten a bad rap over the years. They have a reputation of being aggressive. The best thing to do if you want to handle your snake is to have a removable perch. Then you can remove the animal from its enclosure without disturbing it from its resting place. If you want to hold your snake, approach it from below, which is far less threatening than from above. Try not to pull the snake off of its perch. Gently lift the snake’s coils and offer your arm as another perch. Most green trees will tolerate limited handling. The handling aside, green trees make wonderful display animals.

Cleaning

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Performing sanitation weekly is more beneficial for your snake. This is because snake feces can become rank in a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

You have to daily remove all the feces that you see. Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh. You can do this once a week. Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Diet

As hatchlings, green tree pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted pinky mice, as the snake grows the food size should be increased. Adult green tree pythons can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

A large water bowl should be provided and the water should be changed every day to ensure there is always fresh drinking water.

Potential health threats

In order to detect health issues, you need to pay close attention to their appearance and behaviour. That way you can notice changes in appetite, weight, or movement. Common health issues that affect this reptile include dehydration, obesity, tail hanging, rectal prolapse (protrusion of bowels outside the cloaca during or after defecation), necrotic stomatitis (mouth rot), and MBD (metabolic bone disease).

If you notice changes such as lethargy, loss of appetite, regurgitation, wheezing cough, or bloody bowels, you should contact your local herp vet.

Substrate Nature

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Similar to a fancy cat box type of setup. Absorbent sheets in the bottom of a false set up are fairly affordable.  And they will greatly reduce urine odour and eliminate urine from the substrate very quickly.

If you forgo the false bottom option, and start with a simpler, solid bottomed setup, you should line the bottom with either paper towels, or some other type of absorbent material.  A 2-inch layer of cypress shavings is favoured by most snake keepers. If possible, try to purchase cypress substrate from an earth-friendly supplier.  Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation.

The floor of the terrarium should be moist, not wet. It is of little consequence to the animal when deciding how to get there, there are many good choices. Coco base, whether they be fiber or chips. Mix them, layer them, lay them out uniformly – as long as it’s kept moist, you’ll be providing an appropriate substrate layer. Live or sphag moss can be centred around areas that get a lot of misting attention, around the water source is also a fine place to keep moss.

Bedding Type Available

Coconut Fiber

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

This may be the best choice for trying coconut bedding without paying a high price. The coconut does a great job of encapsulating and then breaking down odours from the waste. It also helps make the clean-up easier by clumping somewhat around the waste. This bedding is non-toxic and chemical free. This also makes the bedding fragrance-free, which is another sign of no chemicals. One of the best additional features of this coconut fiber bedding is the specific design to be dust-free. This is an organic product and safe for the environment.

Advantages:

·   Coarse material suitable for burrowing

·   Odour-free, Dust-free

·   No chemicals

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Newspaper and Paper Towel

Newspapers work and are easy as well as cheap.  Paper towels can work in rack systems and smaller cages. It’s versatile, so you can lay the newspaper on the bottom of your snake’s cage, or you can shred it to increase the surface area. It won’t hold on to urates that well, but the shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. Care must be taken to remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the python.

Advantages:

·   Affordable

Disadvantages:

·   Snake can’t easily burrow in newspaper

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch Bedding are decent substrates and have the added benefits of looking more naturalistic as well as absorbing odours. Cypress mulch looks nice, again helping to create a natural-looking enclosure.

Advantages:

·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold

Disadvantages:

·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Conclusion

Many substrates are suitable for green tree python enclosures. Newspapers are easy to clean, but it’s not aesthetically pleasing for some people.
Whatever substrate you use, the 2-3 inches of depth. This is a good balance, allowing the corn snake to burrow. The best choice for you and your python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

pet-breeding-caring-carpet-pythonCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Carpet Python

Carpet Pythons are popular among diverse pet snakes for their vivid appearance. They exhibit a dazzling array of patterns, color variations that mimic beautiful woven carpets that are widely found in the Middle East. Often portrayed as a snake with an attitude and a nippy disposition, carpet pythons generally become used to handling and can even be docile. Additionally, carpet pythons are intelligent and curious snakes that are mostly seen in pet stores. 

Carpet pythons can be a rewarding species for your own good, if you understand this species and its needs. The following guide contains important information to help you determine if the carpet python is the next snake for you.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Because of their semi-arboreal nature, carpet pythons have a slender build. Their colours are wide-ranging, depending on the subspecies. The jungle carpet python has a striking appearance with its black and yellow markings. The coastal carpet python is brownish with yellow stripes, while Irian Jayas is brownish with tan-coloured markings. Diamond carpet pythons are black coloured with yellow or white dots. Just as with colour, the size of adult carpet pythons is dependent upon the subspecies. 

From smaller ones, like Irian Jaya (5 feet) till matured Coast carpet pythons (9 feet), these snakes grow in an advanced passion. In many species of carpet pythons, the male and female are of similar size. However, female diamond and coastal carpet pythons are often larger than the males. Carpet pythons are long-lived and commonly live over 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

A temperature gradient is a must and should for a caged snake. In particular, carpet snakes prefer warm basking, and the temperature maintained within the container should be 32o C high, and 26o C at low. During night, the temperature should be dropped to 70o F to mimic the natural environment. 

In order to maintain the regulating temperature within the enclosure or the cage, static equipment is much in need. Like, the Ceramic heat emitter or Radiant heat panel, one that is mounted on top of the larger cage. And the heat pad/ flex watt tage that is placed beneath at smaller ones. 

Humidity

The Carpet Python requires moderate humidity of about 50 – 60% which should be easily reached with good substrate choices and misting. You will mist according to the readings of an accurate digital hygrometer to ensure this humidity isn’t exceeded which can become detrimental to the snake, by promoting bacterial growth. 

It is apt to provide a dish full of water or a pooling area for the snakes to rest and bathe. This way, the atmosphere remains hydrated, leaving behind sufficient humid temperature for skin shedding as well. The dish should be cleaned regularly and hygiene must be maintained prior.

Lighting

The snakes are in much need of UVB rays in their source lighting, which promotes a healthy environment for better snake growth. Normal lighting or heating for carpet snakes are provided in the form of Basking bulbs or Ceramic heat mats. But a full spectrum light is recommended for the snake breeders for regulating lighting year round. 

A basking temperature of around 32oC should be maintained during the day, with cooler areas around 22-25oC which will enable your snake to respond properly.

Handling

Carpet Pythons are semi-arboreal snake species, which have a natural defensive stance by nature. So care must be taken while handling the snakes. 

  • Gradually increase the amount of time you engage with them.
  • When handling carpet snakes, support the whole snake body with your hand. Like these snakes happens to perch on branches, raising your hand overhead will give them a calming effect.
  • Avoid touching the snake’s head as it repulse back in defense.
  •  Let it move around your hands while you support its body, that way it creates a secure feel within this species.

Diet

Carpet Pythons are good eaters and tend to be overweight easily. Schedule and a regular routine should always be in check.  As these pythons grow, the feed quantity should also be increased.

For the younger hatchling to one-year-old it is advised to feed once a week, during this period a lot of protein is required which are provided in the form of mice and chicks. For adult pythons, larger rats, guinea pigs or even small rabbits are suffice to be fed on every 2 to 3 weeks.

Food should be defrosted and preferably warmed up before feeding to snakes. Handling snakes should be avoided for the next 48 hours to reduce the risk of regurgitation.

Potential Health Issues

The following are potential health issues for your carpet python:

·   Mites: Check your carpet python for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for pythons. 

·   Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your carpet python is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

·   Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

The following are health warning signs for your carpet python:

·   Lack of appetite

·   Spending excessive amounts of time submerged in its water bowl

·   Emitting a wheezing sound when breathing

·   Discharge, which can be fluid, from their nostrils or mouth.·   Diarrhea

Substrate Nature

Carpet python can be successfully raised on any type of substrate of your choice. Regardless of the substrate you choose, it is important to spot-clean the substrate daily. The substrate should be changed regularly after 6 to 8 days. 

There are many different substrates that can be used for a Carpet Python. Just newspaper can be used, but your snake will appreciate something natural. Aspen shavings and Cypress mulch are two safe and popular substrates. 

If you are specially buying for snakes, then make sure it does not have any added chemicals. You can start with Coconut husk for snakes as it forms a very good choice in means of natural, organic, odor-dust-free, does not inflict any harm to snakes and environment. 

Avoid using Pine, Walnut, or Cedar bedding. These substrates have oils and a strong smell that can irritate your snake. Eliminate the dust from wood shavings before putting them in the enclosure. Dust from shavings can be irritating to your snake and dehydrate them as well. Cleaning is most important. Whatever substrates you use It should be changed completely every 6 to 8 weeks.

The following is a list of bedding can be used for Carpet Snake:

  • Coconut Husk 
  • Cypress mulch
  • Newspaper

Bedding Types

Coconut Husk

The coconut bedding is an all natural, organic bedding option for your snake without investing much money. Coconut is helpful for encapsulating and breaking the foul odor. The coconut husk is a dust-free and odor-free bedding option which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It does not mold and is highly absorbent.

Advantages:

  • Highly comfortable material for snakes
  • Odor and Dust free
  • Natural and Organic 

Disadvantages:

  • Does not retain humidity longer. 

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch is a comfortable bedding for snakes. It looks attractive and natural. It has a property of absorbing odor. This substrate is helpful for retaining moisture. It helps to create a natural looking enclosure for snakes so that they can feel comfortable.

Advantages:

  • Retain moisture
  • It does not mold

Disadvantages:

  • Costly
  • Risk of pest infestation

Newspaper

Newspapers are widely used for snake bedding because it’s readily available. They are really very cheap and easy to handle and replace. You can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspaper but shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. But care must be taken, the wet newspaper can causes skin infection

Advantages:

  • Affordable
  • easy to use.

Disadvantages:

  • Snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

Conclusion

Carpet python are the chosen pet snakes for docile and intermediate temperamental after taming. They are of manageable size and do not inflict any injuries for breeders. Carpet snakes are a smart-inquisitive snake species that you need to be mindful of. 

Carpet python goes well with any kind of substrate you provide. The substrate has to be of 2-3 inches of depth and good at aeration and allowing snakes to borrow. The choice of substrate selection is felt to the best of the breeders’ and snake needs. But the type, source, and depth of the substrate will have a significant impact on your pet snake health and activity.