Reptiles are excellent pets, but a precautious measure has to be taken for the safety concerns of kids.
Good habits are best acquired at an early age, as is usually the case. Teach your children to treat animals with respect from the start. They will receive years of enjoyment from their reptile pals after they comprehend basic reptile etiquette.
Reptiles are delicate creatures that can easily become frightened if not handled appropriately. Kids, in particular, might inadvertently rough-handle and irritate a reptile pet, thus additional caution should be exercised anytime children handle these kind of animals.
Basically, you should keep deadly reptiles away from kids and keep them locked up. Teach correct handling techniques. Respect for reptiles must be taught to children. Even while part of this behaviour may be appropriate among cats and dogs, they cannot shake, tug, or crush the animal. In self-defense, reptiles may lash out. Choose the appropriate reptile. Humans, especially youngsters, are not fond of handling lizards. On the other hand, certain snake species are more tolerant to youngsters. Geckos are among the most kid-friendly creatures. Chameleons and frogs, in particular, are unsuitable for handling. Claws should be trimmed. Although reptiles are less susceptible to having their claws clipped than cats or dogs, it is possible to keep your youngster from being scratched if you do so. Claws of iguanas, in particular, should be cut on a regular basis.
Health Risks To Your Child
Salmonella and botulism are two diseases and illnesses that reptiles may transfer on to your child. These are the most serious dangers. Salmonella is a bacterial infection. Diarrhoea, vomiting, headaches, fever and stomach cramps are all symptoms of the sickness. It can also cause dehydration and blood infections. Salmonella is a threat to reptiles of all kinds. Handwashing helps to lessen the danger.
Botulism is a dangerous and potentially fatal illness. Clostridium is the germ that causes it. It causes death and paralysis. Clostridium is a common bacteria found in reptiles. Botulism is especially dangerous to babies and infants under the age of one. Botulism is caused by bacteria that are widespread in aquatic reptiles. Reptiles that dwell in water, such as turtles, are examples of aquatic responses.
Keeping Clean Around Reptiles Can Help To Reduce Health Risk
You should presume that at least one dangerous germ has infected your reptile. After coming into touch with reptiles, wash your hands and your child’s hands. After handling your reptile or anything it has touched, avoid touching your mouth. Wait till you’ve thoroughly washed your hands. Teach your youngster to follow in your footsteps. Reptiles should not be allowed in any place where food is produced or consumed. Wash the surfaces wherein the reptile has come in contact, with hot water. Your reptile should only be washed in its own basin. Never ever waste water and faeces should be flushed down the toilet or poured down the drain. When cleaning tanks, cages, and equipment, always use disposable gloves and wash your hands afterward. Clean any clothing that has come into touch with your reptile in a hot wash.
Reasons why kids should have pets
Pets Teach Empathy To Kids
Young children are frequently self-centered. The good news is that knowing how to properly care for a pet can aid in the development of empathy in youngsters. Children will discover how their pets react to changes in their habitat and room environment as they care for them. Indeed, you might be amazed at how fast youngsters learn up on their new pet’s likes and dislikes. Having a pet allows youngsters to view things through the eyes of a pet, which is a precursor to seeing things through the eyes of people.
Pets Teach Responsibility To Children
Taking care of an animal creates responsible instincts in your children. Even if your child is extremely small, he or she will be able to fill a dish with food or water. As your child becomes increasingly capable of caring for their pet, you may gradually give them greater responsibility.
Pets Build Confidence Into Children
Caring for a pet may be your child’s first “job.” Your youngster will realise how capable they are with responsibility if they complete their task effectively. This will boost their confidence and, hopefully, provide them with additional opportunities to demonstrate their responsibilities.
Conclusion
Introducing children to a variety of animals at a young age and educating them about them helps to teach compassion and respect for every living creatures, as well as refute and address unreasonable concerns. Only animals with an anxious or violent disposition are not allowed. That would apply to all species, not only reptiles and invertebrates.
The basilisk is a lizard native to tropical Central America that is long and thin. It’s usually green or green/blue in colour, with dark stripes running down the back of the tail and across the top of the abdomen. Males of the species are larger and have huge plumes on their heads, along their spines, and down their tails.
The basilisk will spend the most of its time in or among trees that are located over or near sources of water. When threatened, it may rear up on two legs and sprint exceedingly fast by utilising its tail to keep itself stable. To evade predators, the basilisk can even dive into water. Among the most intriguing features of this lizard is that it has hydrophobic scales on the underside of its feet, allowing it to run over water for brief periods of time. The lizard earned the moniker “Jesus Christ” as a result of this.
Appearance and Behaviour
Basilisks have a dazzling electric green body with light-blue, white, or grey markings as well as darker stripes. The basilisk’s belly is generally a lighter green than the rest of its body, creating a striking contrast.
Their stability is aided by their broad extremities. They are usually brownish or green, but they can also be vivid green, olive-brown, or tan. Their hybrid lines are duller, and their jaws and parallel strips are cream to yellowish. Newborn pigmentation is comparable to that of adults, except it is often more defined, and they have three lengthwise borders on the neck. The eyes of all generation species are rusty to tan in colour. While climbing, they have extended fingers with sharp studs. Males have larger combs than females, which are supported by growing sensory backbones that include a circular or spiky cranial, rear, and posterior comb.
The average length of a fully grown basilisk is between 24 and 36 inches. A female, which is always somewhat smaller than a male, can reach a height of 18-24′′. The tail is responsible for the majority of the length. The average lifespan of a basilisk is eight to 10 years.
What basking temperatures do basilisks need?
A basking area temperature of 90-95°F and a cool side temperature of 75-80°F are required for basilisks. The temperature in the enclosure should be kept between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Digital probe thermometers should be used to measure temperatures, with probes positioned on the basking spot and the floor on the cool side.
A thick, solid wood branch positioned towards the top should serve as the basking surface. Provide heat by placing a cluster of halogen heat lights on one side of the enclosure to resemble the sun. You’ll need enough lamps to heat an area the size of the lizard’s body evenly. Heat mats, red bulbs, and blue bulbs are ineffective and should be avoided.
The temperature should not drop below 75°F at night. To maintain the minimum air temperature, a lightless heat source, such as a radiant heat panel, can be utilized.
What humidity levels do basilisks need?
Basilisks need a humidity level of 50 to 80 percent. This can be maintained by spraying the vivarium with warm water on a daily basis. If your budget allows, you can purchase a mister or fogger to perform the work for you.
What do Basilisks eat?
Basilisks are omnivorous, which means they need to eat both animal and plant-based diets to receive enough nutrients. They are known to eat tiny creatures like lizards, snakes, fish, rodents, birds, and frogs, as well as fruit and certain fresh greens, despite their preference for insects. Depending on their age, they require different amounts of food:
Hatchlings ( < 3 months old): Insects daily
Juveniles ( < 16” long): Insects and salad every other day
Subadults and adults ( > 16” long): Insects every 3-5 days, salad daily
Provide as much food variety as possible for a healthy, happy, colourful basilisk!
Crickets, discoid roaches, dubia roaches, earthworms, grasshoppers, hornworms, silkworms, mealworms, superworms, snails (captive-bred exclusively), pinkie/fuzzy mice, entire fish, chicks, feeder anoles are all good protein sources for basilisks.
Roaches
Collard greens, cactus pads, spring mix, arugula, kale, alfalfa, bok choy, carrot greens, spinach, dandelion greens/flowers, hibiscus greens/flowers are also good selections for basilisks.
Salad
Fruit should only be consumed as a treat due to its high sugar content. Berries, mango, cantaloupe, and papaya are among the fruits available.
Do basilisks like to be handled?
These lizards are often hesitant to be handled. This is especially true for people who have been caught in the wild. When confronted, they frequently snap or flee and begin leaping from the room’s surfaces, which can indicate wounds and nervousness. These lizards are a secondary alternative if you’re looking for a peaceful and well-managed reptile.
If you intend to touch your Basilisk, you can try to gradually build a connection with the creature. Test feeding a few meals with a pair of tweezers; once they start eating from the tongs, see if they will eat from your palm.
You can begin slowly pulling them up without restricting them once they associate you as the pleasant owner who supplies them; make this close to the area so they don’t damage themselves if they fall off. After nearly a year of building confidence, you’ll notice a major change in their personalities.
Cleaning
To keep your surroundings healthy, do a regular spot clean to catch any excrement or uneaten food. A thorough cleaning should be performed once a month. This entails taking down all decorations as well as the substrate. Clean with a reptile-safe disinfectant and a paper towel. In the same way, you can clean your decorations. Before putting them back in the enclosure, make sure they’re completely dry.
Cleaning should be done during the day so that your lizard can return to the vivarium for at least an hour before the temperature drops for the night.
How much space do green basilisks need?
Basilisks are native to a tropical climate, thus they suffer in the UK’s colder climate and require heating and illumination to survive. We recommend keeping a basilisk in a hardwood vivarium to help maintain temperatures stable and shield against the cold. For an adult, we recommend an enclosure that is as near to 4 x 2 x 3ft as possible due to the temperature gradient required for this species.
When choosing a vivarium, look for one with plenty of huge vents and glass sliding front doors. All of this ventilation should prevent heat from escaping from one side of the enclosure to the other while maintaining a steady temperature in the basking region.
In wide open spaces, young basilisks may feel vulnerable and terrified, so make sure there are plenty of decorations. As the basilisk grows in size and becomes accustomed to its surroundings, these can be removed, giving it more room to roam around and bask within the enclosure.
What substrate is good for basilisks?
The substrate should be soil, soil mixtures, leaf litter, or bark wood chips to keep the environment at the proper humidity level. If you want to make a bio-active enclosure, use a nutrient-dense soil mix and add a drainage layer beneath your substrate. For this lizard, coconut husk is an excellent choice. Calcium sand can also be used.
Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.
Calcium Sand
Calcium sand is one of the most attractive surfaces for lizards. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages basilisk natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.
Soil Mixture
Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!
Basilisk potential health issue
Even if you’re providing care for your lizard, you should always be on the lookout for disease.
Parasites-
Internal parasites like roundworm and hookworm can be very harmful to reptiles. Contact with another diseased reptile, contaminated objects, or infected food can cause a captive lizard to become parasitized. Lack of appetite and weight loss, regurgitation of meals, changes in behaviour, and loose stool or diarrhoea are all signs of a parasite infection. Make sure the vivarium is clean on a regular basis to avoid parasitic infestation.
Metabolic Bone Disease-
Lack of UVB lighting is a common reason. Reptiles are unable to convert calcium without vitamin D3, and they are unable to generate vitamin D3 without adequate UVB illumination. A UVB bulb that covers half to two-thirds of the vivarium will suffice.
Vitamin A deficiency-
Vitamin A is obtained from a number of plants in the wild, but it is more difficult to obtain in captivity. Vitamin A is essential for preserving strong vision. Vitamin A is found in most reptile supplement powders and can also be purchased separately.
Rostral (nose) Injuries-
The behaviour of nose banging is common in agitated lizards. They dash about the vivarium, slamming their noses against the walls. Open wounds are common and can become infected quickly.
Conclusion
Basilisks can make excellent pets after you are familiar with their basic maintenance and temperament. They may not be the most cuddly of pets, but they are fascinating to watch and have a lengthy lifespan.
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.
Reptiles are becoming increasingly popular as family pets, and for worthwhile purposes. It’s exciting to observe and engage with these sophisticated creatures. If you’re looking to acquire a reptile, there are many to choose from lizards. In no particular order, here are the top ten most popular lizards kept as pets.
The Bearded Dragon is a popular, outgoing, and low-maintenance reptile. They are among the greatest reptile pets available. Beardies are Australian natives who are recognised for their unique communication style. They have skin folds under their chin that protrude into a “beard.”
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat a variety of fruits and insects during the day. They should eat a couple of times a week and take a calcium supplement. These dragons are the most friendly reptiles you’ll ever meet. They prefer to engage with their owners most of the time. According to several owners, each dragon has its own distinct personality.
The Bearded Dragon is a wonderful starter lizard because of its general simplicity of care and pleasant nature. They grow to be 1-2 feet long and survive for 10-15 years.
Leopard geckos are a popular pet and are well-known for being a good choice for newcomers to herpetology. They are covered in a pattern of dark brown spots, like to the animal for which they are called. They are totally insectivorous and must be supplemented with calcium. They are nocturnal as well.
Leopard geckos are typically calm, do not bite, and are easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners. They like to talk, especially when they’re hungry, so if you don’t want a noisy pet, they might not be the best choice. Fortunately, unlike other geckos, this species lacks sticky toes and does not climb, so they won’t require a tall aquarium. They have a 15-year lifespan.
The vivid blue tongue of the Blue-Tongue Skink is its most distinguishing feature!
These Australian indigenous are omnivores who consume primarily fruits with a small amount of meat. Although they require a fruit and vegetable diet, meat, such as large worms or mice, should also be supplied. They are a little heavier than the reptiles previously mentioned, although they do not grow particularly long for their size about 20 inches.
Skinks with blue tongues are typically gentle, quiet, and easy to tame. They have a powerful bite if they feel threatened, so while it is safe for youngsters to touch them, they should always be supervised. This skink has a 20-year lifespan. Overall, they are ideal starting reptiles due to their simplicity of care and docility.
The Tegus is a South American animal that has lately been brought to Florida’s wilderness. They are a burrowing species that like to stay cool by hiding in tunnels.
This is a bigger species, reaching up to 4 feet in length, but it should be easy to care for for novices who can handle their size.
Despite their size, Black and White Tegus are more docile than the majority of reptiles.
They are easy to manage and have a high level of intelligence. They are another reptile species that eats mice, so if you prefer to feed fruit or insects, this may not be the ideal option for you!
The beautiful Monitor Lizard makes an excellent pet. The Savannah Monitor, Acklin’s Monitor, and White Throated Monitor, which are smaller variants of the Monitor Lizard, are the most frequent. This pet reptile should not be obtained from the wild once again.
The carnivorous Monitor Lizard may be fed rats and mice twice a week. This clever pet reptile should be maintained in a big, safe enclosure to prevent it from escaping. The Komodo Dragon, which resembles a tiny dinosaur at first glance and is not suggested as a pet, is the most well-known of the Monitor Lizards.
African Fat-Tailed Geckos are closely related to Leopard Geckos and require comparable care. These lizards are African natives, as their name implies, and their tails are nearly as thick as their bodies.
Beginners will have no trouble caring for them. Their husbandry and feeding requirements are quite simple. They are typically gentle and pleasant. They have a lifespan of 10 to 25 years.
A Chameleon should be purchased from a captive bred pet store or breeder, just like any other pet reptile. A Chameleon is a difficult reptile to keep as a pet since it is often stressed and requires a lot of attention in terms of habitat, health, and food. The Chameleon, unlike other pet lizards, dislikes being touched.
With its ability to change colours, rolling eyes, and lengthy tongue, the Chameleon makes for a fascinating and fantastic companion. The Veiled, Jackson’s, and Panther Chameleons are the most common pet Chameleons. Chameleons require big, open enclosures and feed on live insects such as crickets and flies.
The Day Gecko is native to Madagascar, but it has lately been brought to Hawaii and other Pacific Islands. They get their name from the gold flecks that emerge on their dorsal side. They are mostly green in colour.
They’re little lizards, approximately 5 to 6 inches long, but they need a 20-gallon tank with plenty of logs and branches to hide in. This will help them cope with their shyness. These branches will also allow them to indulge in their climbing passion. Some novice reptile keepers are hesitant to accept this species since they are highly stressed and their skin rips readily. These lizards are best kept as showpieces with little handling.
They’re ideal for novices who want to learn about lizard care without having to engage with them too much. Day geckos have a lifespan of around ten years.
Because of their attractive look and herbivorous habit, iguanas are a popular beginning Lizard. They consume leaves, fruits, and flowers, so they’re ideal for first-time reptile owners who don’t want to give live food. They are endemic to Central and South America and may reach a height of 5 to 6 feet. They will require a huge cage with a pool of water large enough for them to soak in as they get larger.
To tame your Iguana, begin handling them as often as gently as possible after they appear more at ease. They also have strong claws, so keep an eye on where they put their feet. Iguanas have a lifespan of 10 to 15 years.
They’re ideal for novices who have lots of room, patience, and devotion.
10. Basilisk
The Basilisk is noted for being a water-running lizard, gaining the moniker “Jesus Christ Lizard.”
Typically found in Central America’s tropical jungles. They consume insects, mice, and the occasional fruit as part of their omnivorous diet. Because they are small, these lizards are suitable for beginners. They may grow up to 3 feet long and aren’t very stocky or heavy for their size.
They require a huge cage with higher-than-normal temperatures and humidity. They don’t usually take to handling well, but they’re an interesting pet lizard to observe from a distance. Beginners who are willing to accept their particular husbandry requirements and lack of human interaction should keep this breed. They have an average lifespan of 8 to 12 years.
Which Lizard is best for you?
Many of the lizards on this list are wonderful for some people, but not for others. Make sure the species you pick is appropriate for your lifestyle, husbandry, and handling ability.
Though each of the lizards on this list would make an excellent first pet, they all require special care.
Because of their amiable demeanour and enjoyment of handling, bearded dragons are one of the finest choices for first-time reptile owners.
Choose your reptile carefully, conduct your homework, and bear in mind their needs.
Conclusion
Reptiles make unusual and intriguing pets, regardless of their species. Most reptile pets will live a long time and give years of companionship and amusement provided their unique needs are addressed.
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.
Blue-tongued skinks can be found in Australia’s warm forests and grasslands in their native habitat. The northern and eastern blue-tongued skinks are the most widely maintained of many closely related species known as blue-tongued skinks. Frequently seen lying in ambush on any passing arthropod, sleeping in a burrow, or moving over thick grass and woodland floors. The native habitat of the blue-tongued skink is often compacted sandy soil with scrubland vegetation.
Appearance and behaviour
Blue-tongued skinks are wonderful for beginners since they have a lot of personality and a friendly demeanour. Breeding blue-tongued skinks can be difficult, and some blue-tongue species and locations are exceedingly rare.
The bodies of blue tongue skinks are thick and sausage-like, with short but powerful limbs and triangular heads. But it’s their nickname, a blue tongue, that makes them stand out. The scales of this big, heavy-bodied skink are ridged or “keeled,” with black crossbands. On the sides, pink to orange coloration is frequent. They can reach a length of 24” and have a lifetime of 15-20 years, however with proper care, they may live to be 30 years old.
Temperature Requirements
Temperatures in blue-tongued skink enclosures should be kept cool, between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking region of 90 to 100 degrees should be included in the warm end. An under-tank heating device, such as a heat pad or heat tape, and/or an overhead incandescent basking light or heat emitter can be used to do this. The overhead heating equipment should be switched off at night if both under-tank and overhead heat are offered. Daylight bulbs should be turned on for no more than 12 hours each day. At night, the temperature in the colder part of the enclosure might drop to 70 degrees.
Despite the fact that blue-tongued skinks have been successfully reared without full-spectrum illumination, You can use UVB lighting in blue-tongued skink enclosures. UVB lamps should be turned on for eight to twelve hours each day. UVA is helpful to blue-tongued skinks and is produced by any UVB bulb.
Humidity
To measure the humidity at the chilly end of the cage, a hygrometer should be acquired. Blue-tongue skinks come from a variety of locations, each with its own unique humidity. Humidity levels should be specified according to your species and location. By spraying the enclosure with clean water, you may increase humidity. The vivarium will require additional ventilation if it is too high.
The following are the several species of Blue tongue skinks and their humidity requirements:
Northern blue tongue skink — 40-60%
Classic Indonesian blue tongue skink — 60-80%
Halmahera blue tongue skink — 80-100%
Merauke blue tongue skink — 60-80%
Irian Jaya blue tongue skink — 60-80%
Diet
Blue-tongued skinks are omnivorous, which means they eat a wide variety of plants and insects. Though they may attempt to eat fruit, this might cause stomach distress and is not a necessary component of the skink’s diet, avoid it. Similarly, there are vegetables and other live foods that may be fed to skinks, but they are not very nutritious and should not be included in the skink’s regular diet.
Pinkie Mouse
Brown crickets provide the meat component of this omnivorous diet. They are highly nutritious, relatively easy to hunt for skinks, readily accessible, and excellent value for money. If your skink won’t eat them, black bugs and locust are excellent substitutes. You can provide a pinkie frozen thawed mouse, a part of an omnivorous diet, or a pack of protein dense livefood like snails or worms once a week because these lizards require a lot of protein.
Cockroaches
Waxworms, calciworms, cockroaches, mealworms, and beetle grubs can all be fed on occasion. Because grubs and waxworms are extremely fattening, only serve them once a week. Because mealworms, morio worms, and cockroaches are tough to digest, only feed them to mature skinks if 18 months and up once or twice a week.
Housing
Although blue tongue skinks are huge, fast-growing lizards, the minimum enclosure size, even for a baby, is 4’x2’x2′, or 8 square feet of floor area. Because blue tongue skinks are extremely active, it’s good that you get a larger enclosure if you can afford it. PVC, which is waterproof and lightweight, is the best material for a blue tongue skink enclosure, although glass or well-sealed wood are also viable alternatives. In each cage, just one blue tongue skink should be kept. Housing blue tongue skinks together is likely to stress them out, and there’s a chance they’ll fight and hurt themselves.
Cleaning
To flourish, blue-tongued skinks, like other pets, require a clean habitat. Spot clean every day if feasible, and do a complete clean every 4 weeks or so. You can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure if you maintain the skink in a bio-active cage. Changing the bedding a few times a year may still be a wise decision.
You should take your animal and all of the bedding out of the enclosure before cleaning it. After the enclosure is clean, disinfect it using a reptile-friendly disinfectant. These generally operate quickly and just require around 30 seconds of your time. After the disinfectant has done its job, wipe the surfaces clean with a paper towel.
This procedure is carried out throughout the day so that the skink can return to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lights are switched off for the night.
Handling
When you first bring your blue tongue skink home, avoid the want to play with it right away. You’re enormous in comparison to a blue tongue skink, and it’ll take some time for him or her to realise you’re not going to devour them. Allow at least two weeks for your new pet to settle in before beginning to handle it. You can introduce yourself once your skink has gained confidence in his or her new home. Place an old, worn shirt in the terrarium to let them get acclimated to your fragrance. Allow the skink to become acquainted with your hand by allowing it to relax in the terrarium.
Handling Techniques
The entire body should be supported.
Slow down your motions.
Unless absolutely essential, do not grasp or restrict someone.
Leave them alone if they’re shedding, and don’t tug on loose skin.
Substrate Nature
As burrowing lizards, blue tongue skinks require 4-6 inches of deep, soft, loose ground. Coconut husk, Aspen, recycled paper, and cypress mulch may all be used safely with blue-tongued skinks as provided as they are kept dry. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding which is absolutely cosy for your reptile. Cedar chips, clay cat litter, orchid bark, and walnut shells should never be used as substrates since they can cause toxicity, impaction, and breathing problems.
One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.
Advantages:
· Very natural look
· Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
· Affordable and good value
Disadvantages:
· May attract mites and bugs over time
Cypress Mulch
Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for reptiles. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.
Advantages:
• Retain moisture
• It doesn’t mold.
Disadvantages:
• Costly
• Mites thrive in cypress mulch
Aspen Bedding
Aspen shaving is not too expensive and it is made up of wood which is chemical free. You can completely replace it by paying cheaply. It absorbs and prevents the odors from waste. The substrate is free of chemicals or toxic oils and is perfectly safe for pets.
Advantages:
· It is affordable
· Excellent absorbing and clean-up
Disadvantages:
· May need to be changed more often
Paper towels or newspaper
Paper towels and newspapers are absorbent but do nothing for odor control. Owners like the availability, cost, ease of clean-ups, and lack of possible ingestion. It is obviously very unnatural for any reptile but otherwise presents no large problems.
Advantages:
· Affordable.
· Easy to replace.
· Odor-free, Dust-free.
Disadvantages:
· Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection
Conclusion
The friendly and curious nature of blue-tongued skinks will continually delight and amaze their owners. The unusual and clever blue-tongued skink may well be the perfect pet lizard for reptile lovers of all levels!
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.
Reptile caring is one such rarely seen habit that intrigues one fondness. For a person to raise them in full conscience, needs much thought as their possible raising is not as simple as it appears, read more for a complete guide on each pet to raise them more thoughfully.
Once you have decided on a Leaf-tailed Gecko as a pet, you will want to have everything prepared before bringing him home. Your pet needs a proper house and environment that is both safe and large enough for them. He will also need all the foods that will give him a nutritious diet. This care sheet helps you learn how to take proper care for your Leaf-tailed Gecko.
Appearance and Behaviour
Leaf-tailed geckos are a nocturnal, arboreal group of more than 18 species native to Madagascar. Their preferred habitat is tropical forest, and depending on the species, they can be found in bushes as well as high in the trees.
Depending on the species, leaf-tailed geckos can be as little as 3” and as large as 13”. Despite the fact that colour and pattern differ from one species to the next, they all feature stunningly realistic camouflage. Some are bark/lichen imitators, some are dead leaf imitators, and one is a bamboo imitator!
Leaf-tailed geckos are advanced-level pet reptiles because they are sensitive to bad husbandry, get upset easily, and require a naturalistic cage to survive. They can survive for up to 15 years if properly cared for.
Best temperature for leaf-tailed geckos
A low basking temperature of 80-84°F is recommended for leaf-tailed geckos, as measured using a digital probe thermometer positioned in the basking area. The temperature in the rest of the cage should be between 68 and 76 degrees Fahrenheit, with nighttime temperatures as low as 62 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat stress is particularly common with leaf-tailed geckos, so make sure yours always has a way to cool off!
Use a low-wattage incandescent lamp to keep your gecko warm. Experts consider white heat lamps to be the finest way to mimic the warmth of sunshine indoors and a superior kind of reptile heating. Ceramic heat emitters, red bulbs, and blue bulbs are not as effective as incandescent bulbs. It is not necessary to heat the room at night.
Best humidity levels for leaf-tailed geckos
Since leaf-tailed geckos are tropical animals, their enclosure should have a high level of humidity: 60-80% on average. If you’re maintaining Uroplatus phantasticus, however, higher amounts of 90-100 percent will be required at night to keep them properly hydrated. Humidity should be measured using a digital probe hygrometer, which should be placed in the terrarium’s centre.
Mist your gecko’s enclosure with a spray bottle 1-2 times per day to increase humidity. Mist every evening, then again in the morning if necessary. Aside from increasing humidity, this also provides a crucial supply of drinking water for your gecko! Use a cool-mist humidifier with a hygrostat if you’re having difficulties maintaining proper humidity levels.
What to feed to a leaf-tailed gecko
Roaches
Leaf-tails require a diverse diet to survive. Provide a wide range of live reptile food, such as roaches, crickets, super worms, and wax worms. To prevent worms from burrowing into the substrate, place them on a plate or jar lid. Consider breeding female pinkish mice during the breeding season.
How to handle your leaf-tailed gecko
In general, reptiles do not love stroking and handling as much as dogs and cats do. Leaf-tailed geckos are one of the reptiles that should be left alone rather than handled on a regular basis. Try hand-feeding your pet with a pair of feeding tweezers if you wish to interact with it.
Best substrate for leaf-tailed geckos
Placing a layer of realistic substrate will aid in maintaining proper humidity levels and give a natural cushion for them when diving for insects. It also improves the aesthetics of your enclosure! Humidity can also be improved by layering clean, chemical-free leaf litter on top of the substrate. Soil and Orchid bark can be used. Coconut fiber is one of the best options for your reptile. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding, which is an absolutely organic and chemical free bedding option.
Every 3-4 months, the substrate should be entirely updated and should be at least 2” deep. Poop and urates, as well as polluted substrate, should be removed on a daily basis.
For Leaf-tailed geckos, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a wise option. Coconut is one of the most durable substrates known. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a bit easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antibacterial properties as well. It will capture and even inhibit bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.
Advantages:
• Very natural look
• Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
• Affordable and good value
Disadvantages:
• May attract mites and bugs over time
Soil Mixture
Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!
Advantages:
· Create a natural look.
· Reptiles like to borrow it.
Disadvantages:
· May create skin infection.
Orchid Bark
Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.
Advantages:
· It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.
· Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.
· Increases water retention.
· It’s sustainably sourced.
Disadvantages:
· It will eventually break down.
· It has an acidifying effect
Fun Facts
Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, lack eyelids. Instead, they wipe and moisturise their eyes with their tongues.
Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, can walk up vertical surfaces thanks to millions of minute “hairs” called setae on their toe pads. Uroplatus has little claws to help them navigate about when setae fail, allowing them to hang to branches upside down to get the best angle on a potential bug feast.
Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, lack eyelids. Instead, they wipe and moisturise their eyes with their tongues.
Leaf-tailed geckos, like most geckos, can walk up vertical surfaces thanks to millions of minute “hairs” called setae on their toe pads. Uroplatus has little claws to help them navigate about when setae fail, allowing them to hang to branches upside down to get the best angle on a potential bug feast.
Tegus are a Central and South American species. The lifespan and adult size of different species varies, and many can grow to be extremely huge. Tegus comes in a variety of species and subspecies. Depending on species it comes in a variety of colors. Tegus can be difficult to manage, but with consistent human involvement, they can be domesticated and form bonds with their handlers. Domesticated Tegus are clever giant reptiles that humans love to keep as pets, according to some. It can reach a height of 40 inches and has a lifespan of 15 years or more. The average length of a hatchling tegu is 7 to 10 inches. A young tegus grows quickly, up to an inch every month. For a period, a 40-gallon breeder tank or a reptile cage measuring 36 by 18 by 17 inches would be needed for this species.
Behaviour
These single reptiles are nocturnal, meaning they are most active during the day. They alternate between lounging in the sun and foraging for food to keep their body temperature in check. They enter a hibernation-like state known as brumation throughout the winter months. When the temperature falls below a particular level, brumation occurs. They are highly active creatures during the rest of the year.
Temperature Requirements
Inside the enclosure, a temperature gradient with a warm and cold side should be created. This permits the tegu to change its location and hence adjust its temperature. On the warm side of the enclosure, create a 90-95°F daytime focus basking area. On the cooler side of the enclosure, daytime temperatures should be 75-85°F. To ensure that proper temperatures are maintained, use numerous digital thermometers with probes. Thermometers with dials are frequently inaccurate. Keep a temperature range of 75-85°F throughout the enclosure at night. A safe under-tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can be used to help maintain recommended temperatures if necessary. When using heating pads, always use proper rheostats/thermostats to avoid burn damage.
Lighting
For around 12 hours a day, shine an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light within 18 inches of the basking region, with no glass or acrylic in between. UVB is required for the creation of vitamin D and the proper absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal tract. UVB production declines with time, therefore this bulb should be replaced every 6 months.
Humidity
Tegus require a 70% to 80% humid environment. Fill a dish or container large enough to fit your pet’s full body. You can sprinkle water from a spray bottle once or twice daily to keep the enclosure moist, providing a higher humidity micro-environment for your pet. Keep an eye on the substrate for mould and waste, and replace it fully every 2 weeks, or more frequently if necessary.
Housing
Tegus enclosures must have adequate space for the lizard to turn, move, and run about freely, as well as climbing and perching accessories. Finally, the substrate must let them dig/excavate, and the hide must be large enough for them to move around in. For starters, a juvenile Tegus would be happy in a 36”x24”x20” secure enclosure, but they grow quickly, so you may need an enclosure 2X that size soon. Some handlers construct outdoor enclosures, however this is dependent on the weather. Tegus are highly intelligent, and their social abilities allow them to coexist in a single enclosure. All you have to do now is double everything for two people and adjust accordingly when you add a Tegus. When they’re domesticated, you can let them roam freely as long as the humidity and sunshine exposure are acceptable.
Cleaning
Daily basis, the dirty substrate must be removed. After each meal, any leftover food must be eliminated. Clean water must be added to the tip-proof water bowl on a daily basis. Every 2-3 months, the entire enclosure must be cleaned, including the accessories, furnishings, and skins. Put it back together after washing it with mild detergent, rinsing it thoroughly, and allowing it to dry. Changing the substrate every 4-6 months is a good option.
Handling
Tegus get more docile as they age, which implies they can get along with people rather well. However, you must ensure that your pet is used to being handled; otherwise, they may grow agitated and lash out. You don’t want to get on their wrong side, especially as these creatures can grow to have an exceedingly strong bite!
Diet
Tegus are omnivores and require a diet that is primarily consisting of meaty meals, with some fruits and vegetables thrown in for good measure. Any raw meat, such as pinkie mice or even cooked eggs, will suffice, but a modest amount of fruits and vegetables should be provided as well. Although Red Tegus are fed primarily meaty meals, expect to feed them more fruits and vegetables than their Tegu kin. Clean up any remaining food from the enclosure after each meal.
Substrate
The substrate must allow the Tegus to dig and excavate so make sure the substrate depth is adequate. Cypress mulch is an option but you can also use coconut fiber. Coconut fiber is an organic bedding option and completely safe for your pet. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding which is a high quality product.
Substrate Types
Cypress Mulch
Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for lizards. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.
The coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option for Tegus. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.
Advantages:
• Very natural look
• Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
• Affordable and good value
Disadvantages:
• May attract mites and bugs over time
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.
Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.
Reptiles make fascinating pets, but each species is fascinating in its own way. In this article we are going to discuss African fat-tailed geckos complete care guide.
African fat-tailed geckos are ground-dwelling nocturnal lizards native to West Africa’s deserts. African fat-tailed lizards become more popular as pets, mainly for their ability to live in captivity as well as their gentle affectations and willingness to be handled.
Appearance
African Fat-Tailed Geckos natural colouring is a pale tan or brown background with prominent brown and tan stripes, with some having a faint white stripe running down their back. They are one of only a few geckos with eyelids, which help them keep their eyes clean in their dusty environment. As the popularity of this species increases, more and more African Fat-Tailed Gecko variants become accessible to eager owners. A popsicle orange or light grey is one of them.
Fat-tailed geckos have a body structure similar to leopard geckos, but they have a larger head and more robust feet. Hatchlings are typically 2 inches long and grow to be roughly 9 inches long. Males will have a broader head and be slightly larger than females.
Fat-tailed geckos have been known to live for 15-20 years in captivity when properly cared for.
Behaviour
African Fat-Tailed Geckos are highly docile, friendly, and calm lizards who spend their nights sleeping, basking, and occasionally searching for insects in the wild and in captivity. Unless they are severely threatened, they are unlikely to scratch or bite other animals or people over food or territory. During territorial disputes, to warn off other males, or to attract females, male African Fat-Tailed Geckos use quiet squeaks and clicks, and both sexes will squeak to ward off unwanted company. When they’re hunting, they’ll raise their tails and wave them around in the air to distract the victim before launching an attack.
Lighting & Temperatures Requirements
Aft geckos are tough tiny creatures. They sleep in a hiding area during the day and are active
at night since they are nocturnal. These geckos do not require UVB lights. Any daylight should be turned off at night. During the day, keep your aft warm spot at 88-90 degrees. They are comfortable in the rest of the tank, which is kept at 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. It’s fine if the temperature dips into the low 70s at night as long as they have a warm hide to retreat to.
A heat pad is the simplest way to provide a warm hide for your gecko. It should be positioned beneath the tank, with the hide inside on top of it. Part of the tank should always be cooler so your gecko may control its body temperature by going from one to the other.
Humidity
Humidity should be between 50 and 60 percent, but up to 70 percent would Be ok. This can be accomplished by using a humidity-retaining substrate and positioning your water bowl on the tank’s hot end. Sometimes you may need to mist the tank once or twice a week, but you may find that the tank maintains this humidity without needing much misting. You may need to mist everyday if the natural humidity in your area is particularly low. To check the humidity, you’ll need a humidity reader.
Caging
African fat-tailed geckos are terrestrial in nature. So they need a structure with more floor space than height. Adults can live either in a 20-foot cage or an 18-foot enclosure 18″ x 12″ x 18″. That size can accommodate 1-2 adult fat-tailed geckos for the rest of their lives. It’s best to form groups of one male and one female or all females. If you’re doing a trio, a larger cage, such as an 24″ x 18″ x 12″, will be required.
Trios consist of 1 male, 2 females, or 3 females. They will fight if there are more than one adult male in an enclosure. It’s also essential to keep the size of your African fat-tailed geckos similar. Don’t put a baby in the same room as an adult. When one is substantially larger than the other, the smaller is frequently bullied by the larger.
EcoBed Reptile Bedding can be used as a loose substrate. A solid substrate, such as the normal paper towels, can also be used.
Handling tips for African Fat Tailed Geckos
When you initially get your new pet gecko home, avoid the want to start playing with it right away. Allow at least two weeks for your new pet to settle in before beginning to handle it. You can introduce yourself if your gecko has gained confidence in their new environment and is eating regularly. Keep an eye on you from outside the enclosure. Allow the lizard to become familiar with your hand by placing it in the enclosure.
As juveniles, African-fat-tailed geckos are usually more distrustful than adults. However, they will gradually stop running away from your hand and become accustomed to your presence. This is the point at which you can begin to deal with them. However, just because you’ve made it this far doesn’t imply your pet trusts you. Trust and friendship as far as lizards are concerned take time and consistent handling.
Handling Technique
The entire body should be supported.
Slow down your motions.
Never grab them from above, chase them down, or drag them out of a hiding spot.
Allow the gecko to climb onto you willingly whenever feasible.
Give them a bug as a prize.
Leave them alone if they’re shedding and don’t pull on loose skin.
Feeding and Diet
In their natural habitat, African Fat-Tailed Geckos are carnivorous and are not known to consume any plant materials.
Their diet consists primarily of insects and other invertebrates that they encounter on the savannahs at night, such as various species of worms, crickets, and beetles. They may only like to consume live prey in captivity, but the rest of their diet is simple to fulfill.
African Fat-Tailed Geckos should be fed crickets and other larval insects like mealworms when kept in captivity. They’ll also need extra supplements, such as vitamin D3, to help them adjust to their new surroundings.
Owners can either ‘dust’ the insects with calcium or other vitamin power, or ‘gut load’ their feeder insects with these nutrients.
Crickets and mealworms are preferred by African Fat-Tailed Geckos. Waxworms, silkworms, hornworms, and pinky mice are occasionally provided to them:
Hatchlings under the age of four months should only be given 12 sized crickets and should be fed 5 insects every day.
Adults should eat 9 crickets or worms every day. Their crickets can be a little bigger (2/3 the size of a normal cricket).
If your Gecko doesn’t consume the prey, it should be removed within a few hours. In their tank, there should always be a shallow water dish with clean water; they won’t drink from it, but it will help preserve moisture.
Substrate Nature
Paper towels or newspaper work nicely as a substrate for an African Fat-Tailed Gecko’s enclosure. The most common and safe bedding alternative is coconut husk. A fine orchid bark or a sandy soil mix are used by certain owners. Although it is critical that sand is not utilised as a substrate on its own because it might cause digestive issues and harm to the digestive tract. Paper will make daily spot cleaning easier, but it will need to be replaced every 2-3 days. Only change the orchid bark or compressed coconut bedding once a week.
Substrate Types
Paper towels or newspaper
Since paper towels and newspapers are absorbent, they have no odor-controlling properties. The availability, cost, ease of clean-up, and absence of potential ingestion are all factors that owners like. It is plainly unnatural for any reptile, but it poses no significant concerns.
One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.
Advantages:
· Very natural look
· Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
· Affordable and good value
Disadvantages:
· May attract mites and bugs over time
Orchid bark
Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.
Advantages:
· It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.
· Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.
· Increases water retention.
· It’s sustainably sourced.
Disadvantages:
· It will eventually break down.
· It has an acidifying effect
Sandy soil mix
Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!
Advantages:
· Create a natural look.
· Reptiles like to borrow it.
Disadvantages:
· May create skin infection.
Some Interesting facts about African Fat-Tailed Geckos
1. Their Tails Are Fat, as the Name Indicates
2. The Gecko is healthier if its tail is thicker.
3. African Fat-Tailed Geckos Do Not Interact Socially
In the reptile trade, giant day geckos have grown highly popular. The likability of the species has been recognised by mainstream marketing, as evidenced by the now-famous Geico Gecko, which is considered to be modelled by a day gecko.
The giant day gecko has captivated reptile lovers due to its incredibly brilliant colours and appropriate size for a home terrarium. The crimson and blue blood day gecko, possibly the most beautiful lizards on the planet, has been developed by a select group of breeders. They are living works of art that are frequently displayed as a decorative focal point in a room or in a garden by their owners.
Appearance
The head, back, and tail of giant day geckos are all crimson with red lines and spots. Their colours are bright, just like those of other day gecko species. However, agitated animals will take on darker tones of green.
The giant day gecko is the largest member of the day gecko family, as its title implies. Adult males can grow up to a foot in length. Females are usually 1 or 2 inches shorter than males. They have a thick body and are well-muscled. Giant day geckos can survive for a long time if properly cared for. They have been known to live for up to 20 years, but the usual lifespan is between 6 and 8 years.
Giant Day Gecko Lighting and Temperature
Giant day geckos are active during the day. The gecko’s vitamin D3 demand can be met by using a high-quality UVB light. To keep the temperature at 95 degrees Fahrenheit, use an incandescent light bulb with the necessary wattage. During the day, the temperature should be between 82 and 86 degrees, and at night, it should be between 75 and 82 degrees. This thermal gradient will be used by captive giant day geckos to thermoregulate to their ideal body temperature.
Humidity
All day geckos require a high level of humidity in their cages, ranging from 60% to 80%, depending on the species. To approve the humidity level, get a hygrometer for the humidity gauge. The use of live plants and an appropriate substrate, as well as regular misting of the tank, will assist maintain moisture. If you won’t be able to mist the cage during the day, put in an automatic mister or fogger that will add humidity at certain intervals.
Housing and Decoration
Although giant day geckos are adapted to a hot, humid climate, they require more heating to survive. Unlike other reptiles, they only require a basking temperature of roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit and can become stressed if the temperature rises too high. A tall glass enclosure with front and top ventilation is recommended to reduce overheating and ensure appropriate airflow.
The enclosure does not retain much heat, a temperature gradient will be achieved from one side of the enclosure to the other as long as the room it is put in is cool. Giant day geckos enjoy climbing and spend the majority of their time above the ground. A number of hard wood decorations should be firmly in place to allow multiple routes up and down the enclosure to help with this. Although giant day geckos aren’t very shy, it’s ideal to keep the enclosure partially covered.
Dew on leaves and flowers provides a lot of hydration for giant day geckos, so make sure there are plenty of huge leaves and plants (real or artificial) to gather water when the enclosure is sprayed.
Cleaning
To thrive, giant day geckos, like other pets, require a clean habitat. Every day, spot clean as much as possible, with a comprehensive clean every 4 weeks or so.
Remove your animal, all decorations, and all bedding from the enclosure before cleaning it. After the enclosure is clean, disinfect it using a reptile-friendly disinfectant. These disinfectants usually work rapidly and only need to be left on for around 30 seconds; instructions are usually printed on the disinfectant’s container. After the disinfectant has taken effect, wipe the surfaces clean with a paper towel. You may wish to repeat this step a second time to make sure the enclosure is completely clean.
Similarly, you may clean your decorations by spraying them with disinfectant and thoroughly rinsing them with water before drying them and putting them back into the enclosure.
Food and Diet
Giant Day geckos are omnivorous, which means they eat a wide variety of plants, live insects, and fruit.
Brown crickets are a good choice for the live insect element of this diet. They are highly nutritious, somewhat easy to hunt for the gecko, readily available, and excellent value for money. If your gecko won’t eat these, black bugs and locust are excellent substitutes. You might want to give your gecko a treat now and then, and you could do so by feeding waxworms, calci worms, or mealworms. We generally only serve grubs and worms once or twice a week because they are rather fattening. The crested gecko diet, crested gecko classic, grubs n fruit, and mango diet are all appropriate meals for this species. Along with the livefood, they can be fed 3-4 times per week.
You can provide a tiny water bowl in the enclosure as a backup. Although you may never see the gecko drink from it, it should be replaced on a daily basis.
Handling
Day Geckos should only be handled if absolutely necessary. Their skin breaks and can come off, which is a remarkable adaptation. They are able to avoid predators as a result of this. They will heal, but it will be uncomfortable for them, which we want to avoid as their caregivers. Babies are notorious for being flighty. Keep in mind that you’re a colossal predator to them. Slowly approach them and, if feasible, pick them up from below. Don’t grasp them, and don’t grab their tail because it will fall off. Day Geckos are lovely and amazing animals and pets to have, however they should not be handled.
Common Health Problems
Geckos are susceptible to a number of health issues that can be treated by an exotics veterinarian.
Skin disorders: Geckos, like most other reptiles, need to lose their skin in order to grow and stay healthy. Unclean circumstances, insufficient humidity, or parasites can trigger partial sheds.
Parasitic infections: Parasitic infections can cause weight loss, bloody stools, vomiting, and skin diseases, and they require treatment with an antiparasitic medicine.
Metabolic bone disease: This potentially fatal sickness is caused by a calcium and vitamin D deficiency, and it causes weaker bones. If identified early, it can be treated.
Giant Day Gecko Substrate Nature
Many substrates meant for rain forest terrariums, such as peat/soil mixtures, coconut fibre, and different bark chips, can be used successfully. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding, which is an ideal bedding option for your lovely pet. The sole stipulation is that the substrate particle size be large enough to prevent unintentional ingestion by the geckos when they are catching insect prey, as this could result in intestinal blockage.
One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.
Advantages:
· Very natural look
· Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
· Affordable and good value
Disadvantages:
· May attract mites and bugs over time
Orchid bark
Orchid bark makes an excellent naturalistic substrate for tropical plants and terrariums. It adds a variety of advantages to more thorough mixtures and can also be used as a stand-alone substrate for particular plants.
Advantages:
· It’s a natural material and looks and feels authentic.
· Aerating soil, resisting compaction and providing drainage.
· Increases water retention.
· It’s sustainably sourced.
Disadvantages:
· It will eventually break down.
· It has an acidifying effect
Sandy soil mix
Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!
Advantages:
· Create a natural look.
· Reptiles like to borrow it.
Disadvantages:
· May create skin infection.
Conclusion
Giant Day Geckos are gorgeous, large geckos. They are diurnal, which means they are active at different times of the day. While these geckos make fascinating terrarium pets, they are fast-moving animals that should not be handled on a regular basis. Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.
Chameleons are fascinating animals that only suit those who are totally into it. Chameleons are referred less for the beginner herpetologist because their care requirements are fairly particular and they are easily stressed. Many “true” chameleon species have native habitats ranging from Yemen and Saudi Arabia southward to Madagascar and areas of Eastern Africa.
Appearance and Behaviour
Young chameleons are often a dull gray/brown tint with the ability to shift shades. Around the age of five months, the adult colour and ability to shift colours emerge, and a variety of colours, including green, blue-green, turquoise, and black, are visible. Camouflage, temperature regulation, and communication with other chameleons are all benefits of changing hues. Chameleons, unlike anoles, change colours in response to a variety of stimuli, including excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other factors.
A stressed chameleon is usually dark brown to black, with brighter hues expressing a happy disposition.
Chameleons grab prey with their tongues. Chameleons can have tongues that are up to 1.5 times the length of their bodies, allowing them to grab insects from afar.
The veiled chameleon is one of the biggest chameleon species seen in captivity, with adult males reaching a total length of 2 feet and females reaching about 18 inches. Hatchling chameleons are about 3 to 4 inches long in total. A well-cared-for and robust male chameleon can survive for six to eight years as a pet. Females, on the other hand, have a lifespan of four to six years on average. Female chameleons produce sterile clutches of eggs even if they haven’t bred, similar to chickens. This consumes a lot of energy and eventually exhausts the females.
Basking Temperatures Requirements For Chameleon
To thermoregulate and control their body temperature, chameleons require a temperature gradient. This effectively means that your enclosure must have both a hot and a cold side. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. As a result, your chameleon will be able to switch between the various temperatures as needed. If your cage is tall, your temperature gradient will be top to bottom rather than side to side.
A basking space with a temperature of 85-95 degrees should be available. The rest of the enclosure might be anything between 72 and 80 degrees. Temperatures can dip to as low as 65 degrees at night. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. A Reptile basking bulb is the simplest way to raise the temperature in your enclosure.
Lighting for Chameleon
Chameleons require UVA and UVB exposure. Additionally, allowing some exposure to natural sunshine through an open window will help keep chameleons happy and healthy because glass screens out virtually all of the necessary UV rays. UVB lights should be turned on for at least 10 hours every day.
Humidity level
Chameleons spend the majority of their time in trees. They don’t drink from a motionless water bowl on the ground in the wild. Water your lizard at least twice a day using a spray bottle, usually for at least a minute each time, getting all the leaves and branches wet. Check to see if your pet is getting adequate water. It’s a symptom of dehydration if its eyes become sunken or less cone-shaped.
How do I set up a chameleon habitat?
Chameleons should be kept in separate enclosures. Choose a terrarium or screened enclosure that is at least 16 x 16 x 30 inches and is well-ventilated. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre or reptile bark, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Clean the floor material on a regular basis and replace it at least once a month. To elevate your pet no closer than 8 inches from the terrarium’s heat source, use rocks and real or artificial branches purchased from a store. The chameleon’s grip should be just slightly wider in diameter than the branches.
What do chameleons eat?
Feed your waxworms or chameleon crickets on a daily basis. Only give the chameleon as much as he or she can consume before the end of the day. Any leftovers should be discarded. Twice a week, dust insects with a calcium supplement. Once a day, chameleons should eat appropriate greens like collards or mustard greens. Provide only as much food as the Veiled Chameleon can consume in four hours, and then discard any leftovers.
Chameleons do not consume food from dishes. Instead, they hydrate themselves by licking water off their skin and the environment, thus keeping the habitat well-watered.
When to feed your chameleon? Keep the following in mind,
· Water your plants by misting them 4 to 5 times each day and/or using a dripper.
· Feed on a daily basis. Food should be available to children at all times.
· Add a calcium supplement to your food once or twice a week, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice a week.
· Vegetables that haven’t been consumed in the last 24 hours should be tossed.
Habitat Maintenance
At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat: Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3 percent bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water to remove any signs of bleach smell; properly dry the tank and furnishings before adding clean substrate.
Grooming & Hygiene
Chameleons shed their skin on a regular basis, so keep the humidity in the habitat at a comfortable level to allow for optimal shedding. Provide a shed box, such as a hide box filled with sphagnum moss, to aid in the shedding process.
Common Health Problems
Many chameleons are deficient in calcium and vitamin A, which is mainly caused by a poor diet. They’re also prone to mouth rot, commonly known as stomatitis, an infection that causes redness, copious saliva, and drooling around the mouth.
Metabolic bone disease is another common condition among chameleons. The bones of a chameleon become spongy due to this ailment, which can be fatal if not treated properly. They’ll appear sluggish and possibly lose their appetite.
It’s best to visit a veterinarian who specialises in reptiles if your pet appears ill or anxious, as with any other condition. Before consulting a veterinarian, try to stay away from home cures.
Handling
While some chameleons will tolerate some handling, the most will not. Excessive holding causes most people to get stressed. Chameleons prefer to be at the top of the food chain. Even those that are used to being handled will normally prefer to walk up your arm and to the top of your head. Some chameleons prefer to come out of their enclosure and walk around on a network of vines or “trees” that you have set up for them.
You’ll learn about your chameleon’s personality and what it will accept in terms of interaction and handling as you work with it. Have a good time and enjoy your lovely pet.
Interesting facts about Chameleon
· There are more than 200 chameleon species.
· Chameleons come in a wide range of sizes.
· They use their toes and tails to get around.
· Chameleons don’t change colors to camouflage themselves.
· They have panoramic vision.
· They have sticky, speedy tongues.
Substrate for your Chameleon
The bottom of a cage or enclosure is lined with substrate or bedding. Simple flat newspaper is the finest substrate for chameleons because it is inexpensive, recyclable, and easy to dispose of. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Avoid beddings with minute particles, such as sand, kitty litter, cedar, gravel, corn cob bedding, and beddings that hold extra moisture if a particulate or natural substrate is employed. Bacterial and fungal growth can be aided by moisture retained in bedding.
Substrate Types
Newspaper
Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy way is to use newspapers, which are generally readily available in the home. To cover the entire floor area, use three or four layers of newspaper. It is advised that newspaper substrates be replaced on a daily basis. Spills should be cleared as quickly as possible. Despite their unsightly appearance, newspapers are a reasonably cost-effective solution.
Pros:
• Easy to replace
• Affordable
Cons:
• Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection
Coconut Fiber
Besides Chameleons, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a good choice. Coconut is one of the most secure substrates accessible. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antimicrobial properties as well. It will capture and even kill bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.
Pros:
• Very natural look
• Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
• Affordable and good value
Cons:
• May attract mites and bugs over time
Choosing Your Chameleon
When looking for a pet chameleon, search for one that has been captive bred. Wild-caught species are typically anxious, have a high parasite load, and have a hard time acclimating to captivity.
Chameleons aren’t the easiest or most difficult reptiles to care for, and starting with a stressed animal can only make things worse. Furthermore, the capture and transportation of chameleons, which is now more strictly regulated, resulted in the deaths of numerous animals. Many more animals perish in transit than ever make it to the pet store.
Observe a captive-bred chameleon once you’ve discovered one. They should be energetic and bright, with the ability to change colours and a well-fleshed body.
Different Species of Chameleon
Chameleons come in a variety of colours and are popular as pets. Here are a few possibilities to think about:
Veiled Chameleon
Veiled chameleons are hardy, striking-looking lizards with tall casque helmet-like structures on the tops of their heads. Both males and females have a casque that helps direct water that drips onto their heads into their mouths. Veiled chameleons have bands of green, yellow, and brown on their body that shift to different colours. Small children and novice lizard keepers should avoid these chameleons as pets.
Jackson’s Chameleon
Jackson’s chameleons were native to East Africa, but in recent years have been introduced into California, Hawaii, and even Florida. The length of a Jackson’s chameleon, including the tail, ranges from 9 to 13 inches. Males are often bigger than females. In captivity, they can survive for 5 to 10 years.
Panther Chameleon
Panther chameleons appear in a variety of spectacular colour morphs or phases, each of which is named after a geographical region in its native environment of Madagascar. Females have less colour variety, frequently orange or brownish, and a less striking “helmet” of ridges along the sides of the head than males, as well as being smaller. Panther chameleons are a favourite among lizard owners because of their generally calm nature and the fact that they’re very easy to care for compared to other lizards.
Green iguanas can be found throughout North and South America’s tropical and subtropical regions. Green iguanas are found throughout Mexico, Central America, and South America, including Paraguay and Argentina. Green iguanas can be found across the Lesser Antilles, as well as the Greater Antilles and Southern Florida in recent years. Green iguanas are an invasive species in the Greater Antilles and southern Florida. Iguanas are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets. They prefer sunbathing or being exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and they eat a diet rich in leafy greens and vegetables.
What We Like About Green Iguanas:
Pros:
In its native nations, this species is known as “palo gallino” or “bamboo chicken.”
On top of their heads, they have a “third eye,” a photosensory organ.
Face recognition is a capability of iguanas. This means they can figure out who looks after them.
Hatchlings can stay together for up to a year. Males in the family group frequently guard females, a trait rarely seen in other reptiles.
Cons:
Large, complicated enclosures with plenty of perches and room are required for iguanas.
This lizard has unique requirements for temperature and illumination.
It can take months for them to become accustomed to human interaction.
During breeding seasons, males may become more aggressive.
Appearance
The name implies that Green Iguanas are only green, although this is not the case. They can actually come in a range of hues. Red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, and orange iguanas are available. Their price usually rises as the colour gets scarcer, such as yellow, white, and black. Color is greatly influenced by location and selective breeding. They shed in chunks on a regular basis, just like other lizards. This process can be aided by regular soaking, but when sufficiently hydrated, they should be able to remove the skin on their own.
Green iguanas can grow to be 6 to 7 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds. Male green iguanas grow to be longer than female green iguanas, which rarely grow to be more than 5 feet long. Male green iguanas also have larger spikes on their backs and massive femoral pores on the underside of their back legs as they develop. Green iguanas can live for 15 to 20 years if properly cared for.
Handling
A Green Iguana can be docile and quiet in captivity if gentle socialisation is practised from a young age. If they haven’t been socialised or are in the presence of a stranger, they may exhibit defensive behaviours including hissing, biting, clawing, tail whipping, or stiffening. As hatchlings, green iguanas might be stressed. Excessive handling can exacerbate this, making it more difficult to socialise. Avoid handling your Iguana after they’ve been moved into their new enclosure. Instead, try moving the cage’s décor about to make them used to you. Start with feeding them with your hands to get a feel for how to handle them. Once they identify you with feeding, they will begin to trust you. You can begin managing trust once it has been established. For certain species, this process can take months.
Keep the following in mind when handling your Green Iguana:
· Keep their face away from yours
· Keep their tail pointing towards the ground behind you
· Brace their weight by placing your hand between their forelimbs
Captive Environment
Adult Iguanas in captivity require a vivarium measuring at least 6′ x 5′ x 4′. If extra space is available, it is best. Most people will give a fully grown adult Iguana a room in their home. 12-14 hours each day, use full spectrum 5 percent UVB illumination. Provide a shady spot with access to a cooler spot. A heat gradient in their aquarium is preferred by all reptiles. A UVB bayonet lamp for basking at one end of the tank, with a heat mat under the same side, would be ideal. Hides, branches, reptile plants/leaves, and substrate like Coconut fiber are all excellent choices. Although personal preference is important, try to adhere to wooden hides and leaves, as these creatures’ dwell in trees, and sand for substrate and caves for hides are not appropriate for their natural habitat.
Cleaning & Misting
Since green iguanas consume a lot, they will leave a lot of waste in their cage. As a result, you should remove faeces and plant detritus with a substrate shovel on a daily basis. You should also inspect their faeces during this time. Make sure there’s a good mix of dark and light urates. An imbalance between the two, or their complete absence, can indicate digestive problems. You should clean your Iguana’s cage and replace the substrate every four weeks. If you’re using live plants, make sure to carefully remove them while preserving the root structure. Soap and water should be used to scrub all surfaces. Any removable décor should be soaked in a 10 percent bleach solution to destroy microorganisms.
Lighting & temperatures
Green iguanas are native to the tropics. You’ll want to provide them with a basking area as well as a chilly place where they can adjust their body temperature. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. Your iguana will be able to move back and forth between the different temperatures as needed. A 100–115-degree basking space should be supplied. The temperature in the rest of the enclosure can be in the 80–85-degree range. Temperatures can dip to as low as 75 degrees at night. Use a decent temperature gauge, such as a digital thermometer or a thermometer. For a baby iguana, one basking bulb is sufficient, but for an adult iguana, at least two bulbs should be placed next to each other to provide a bigger space for your iggy to heat up. Warming a large-bodied iguana takes a lot of energy. It’s great if it’s a little more spread out and not too hot in one spot.
Iguanas require UVB lighting in addition to heat to help them absorb calcium and produce vitamin D3. We must offer UVB light in the form of a special fluorescent bulb designed to create UVB rays because they do not receive natural sunlight in our homes. Heat rocks should not be used. Green iguanas have evolved a particular adaptation for basking, which allows them to absorb heat from above. They can get severely burned on a heat rock if they don’t notice it’s too hot until it’s too late.
Humidity and Water Requirements
Iguanas demand moderate to high humidity levels. Every other day, mist the vivarium. Additionally, provide a large, relatively deep-water dish for drinking and bathing. Place the water dish over half of the basking area to allow the heat to produce water vapour, which will increase humidity. As water stimulates the bowls of all reptiles, this will need to be cleaned out thoroughly every day. Also, check the water levels every time you are near your tank to make sure it hasn’t all evaporated. Also, make sure you use just lukewarm water. They might be shocked and possibly die if they come into contact with ice cold water.
Green Iguana Food
Raw natural foods purchased in a supermarket and professionally prepared “Iguana Food” can readily meet the dietary needs of green iguanas. Collard greens, turnip greens, dandelions, yellow squash, entire green beans, and other vegetables are great for your green iguana. We also give fruit on a weekly basis. Diarrhea can occur if a green iguana’s diet is high in fruit.
Small green iguanas require slightly different food preparation than adult green iguanas. When chopping raw veggies, make sure each piece is the right size for the green iguana to simply pick up and consume whole. Keep in mind that green iguanas can’t chew their food and must swallow it whole.
Green Iguana Substrate
A solid substrate must be used to avoid the possibility of your Green Iguana eating the substrate. Particulate substrates are not advised at all because they can create health issues for your Green Iguana if swallowed mistakenly. Coconut fiber, newspaper are recommended.
Coconut fiber
For most iguana owners, the coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. When the iguanas are young and in their large pen, coconut is a good substrate to utilise. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.
Pros:
• Very natural look
• Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
• Affordable and good value
Cons:
• May attract mites and bugs over time
Newspaper
Another viable substrate choice is newspaper. Using newspapers, which are often easily available in the home, is a simple method. Three or four layers of newspaper should be used to cover the entire floor area. Daily replacement of newspaper substrates is recommended. Any spills should be cleaned up as soon as possible. Newspapers are a relatively cost-effective solution, despite their unappealing appearance.
Pros:
• Easy to replace
• Affordable
Cons:
• Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection
Artificial Grass Patch
For the large region that needs to be covered with iguanas, an artificial grass patch works nicely. It is more expensive than the other products, but the benefits may be worth it to you. Iguanas can safely eat the synthetic material because it is lead-free and non-toxic even when wet. It has a natural-looking pattern that is full and comfortable to the touch. You don’t have to do anything to get it up and running. Simply place it where you want it and plonk it down. The colour won’t leak when exposed to sunshine or the UVB lights your iguana need because it’s UV resistant. The grass has drainage pores in it, making it resistant to mould caused by standing water. This also makes cleanup a breeze. This grass will last for years if no severe harm occurs.
Pros:
• Easy to use and clean
• Soft, natural feel
• Durable product to last years
• Safe and resistant to mold
Cons:
• High price
Fun facts about the green iguana
· If they are trapped, they can detach their tails and grow a new one. That’s ingenious!
· They have superb eyesight, which allows them to see prey or detect danger from afar.
· Despite being classified as omnivores, they prefer a herbivorous diet.· Green iguanas have razor-sharp teeth that can rip leaves from trees and puncture human skin.
