CategoriesCat Littter Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
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How To Care For Your Cat?

When you’re a new cat or kitten owner, you’re likely to have a lot of questions about how to care for your new companion. Cats are many things, as you may already know or will soon discover lively, independent, affectionate, curious, smart, and frequently entertaining. Cats are low-maintenance pets that are simple to care for. Cats are one of the most popular pets, and they are an excellent addition to any home! Cats can be self-sufficient and are considered the ideal companion for individuals who lead busy lives, but they still require care. This guide explains some of the fundamentals of cat care.

Behaviour

The cat’s emotional condition and intentions are expressed through a nuanced range of facial expressions, vocal sounds, tail and body postures. These signals are used to widen, narrow, or preserve social distance. Rubbing the side of the head, lips, chin, or tail on the owner and against furniture is a characteristic social behaviour. Scent glands in several areas of the cat’s body appear to have a part in developing a recognisable odour in the cat’s environment.

Every cat is different, but strange grooming or concealing habits, as well as changes in feeding or toileting habits, are grounds for concern. Sleeping in a slumped position and spraying inside are also bad ideas. Aggressive or unsociable behaviour might also indicate a cat that is unhappy or sick.

Housing

Your pet should have her own clean, dry sleeping and resting area in your home. A nice, warm blanket or towel can be used to line your cat’s bed. Make sure to wash your bedding on a regular basis. Please confine your cat to the house. Cats who live outside do not live as long as cats who live indoors. Cars, as well as battles with other cats, raccoons, and free-roaming canines, pose a threat to outdoor cats. Cats are known to be eaten by coyotes. Fleas and ticks are more likely to infest outdoor cats, and they are also more prone to get infectious illnesses. You must offer your cat comfortable bedding.

We recommend EcoBed Cat Litter Bedding, which is natural, biodegradable cat litter made of naturally driven coconut peat.

Grooming

Although most cats are clean and rarely require a wash, you should brush or comb your cat on a regular basis. Brushing your cat’s coat on a regular basis keeps it clean, decreases shedding, and reduces the likelihood of hairballs. Avoid getting soap or water near your cat’s eyes or ears by using a mild shampoo made for cats. Shampoos with flea treatments should be avoided unless your veterinarian advises otherwise, since many cats have experienced negative responses to particular flea treatment shampoos. After bathing, thoroughly dry him with a towel and lay him somewhere warm until he is completely dry. After the coat has dried completely, give him a good brushing to make him fluffy and gorgeous.

Handling

Place one hand beneath the front legs and the other behind the hindquarters to lift up your cat. Lift with care. Picking up a cat by the scruff of the neck or the front legs is never a good idea.

Diet and Feeding

A well-balanced cat diet should include the majority of cats will thrive on advanced, natural, or essential cat meals. Food should be matched to a person’s age and degree of activity. Treats should not account for more than 10% of overall food consumption. Water is replaced daily and is fresh, filtered, and chlorine-free.

When feeding your cat, keep in mind that you feed 2 to 3 little meals each day; cats love to eat often throughout the day, and this is the optimum feeding technique provided the food can be kept fresh and the cat will not overeat. Keep an eye out for indications of boredom in your cat, since bored cats can eat excessively if food is continually accessible. Giving your cat wet food is a wonderful approach to ensure that they receive enough water. Using a pet fountain to offer your cat with fresh, clean, circulating water may encourage them to drink more, which will help them keep hydrated.

Vaccination

A variety of immunizations are required for your kitten, including:

8 weeks – Feline rhinotracheitis, Feline calicivirus, Feline panleukopenia (first series)

9-11 weeks – Feline rhinotracheitis, Feline calicivirus, Feline panleukopenia (second series)

12 weeks and up – The conclusion of the series

Feline rhinotracheitis, feline calicivirus, and feline panleukopenia are all diseases that affect cats.

Rabies is a disease that affects humans (required at 16 weeks and then annually)

Consult your veterinarian to determine the best immunisation regimen for your cat.

Common Health Issues

Diarrhea is a condition characterised by loose stools caused by a poor diet, stress, filthy living conditions, or another sickness. Determine the reason and therapy with the help of a veterinarian.

Coughing, choking, or vomiting are all symptoms of hairballs. Hairball prevention should be used on a regular basis. If the problem persists or you’re losing weight, see a veterinarian.

External parasites such as mites, fleas, and ticks cause itching, hair loss, and sickness. Use products made specifically for cats. Make an appointment with a veterinarian.

Conclusion

Cats are the most popular and gentle pets. You should expect to spend time with your cat, both playing with it and grooming it, as well as being a companion to them. You may do your best to ensure that your cat is happy and healthy by taking this route.

CategoriesDogs As Pet Lifestyle Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
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How to care for your dog?

Dogs, like baseball and apple pies, are ingrained in the American psyche. However, before a successful adoption, every choice to add a dog friend to the family must be well explored. A dog can be a great addition to any family, but whether you’re a seasoned pet parent or a first-time adopter, it’s critical to prioritise your dog’s health and happiness. Here are some helpful hints for all dog owners.

Behaviour

Dogs are extremely sociable creatures. Puppy socialisation should begin at a young age. Some dogs require mental as well as physical stimulation. Other breeds have mostly been produced as companions. These dogs won’t be stars in the obedience ring, but they’ll be content to spend time with their families. The majority of breeds lie somewhere in the middle between these two extremes.

Dogs have an extraordinarily developed sense of smell, which is significantly superior to that of humans. Dogs can perceive noises up to four times quieter than humans at certain frequencies. Ultrasound, which is sound with a frequency higher than the maximum limit of human hearing, is also audible to dogs. In low-light situations, they can see better than humans. Whines, whimpers, growls, barks, and howls are among the noises made by dogs, which are sometimes combined in complicated ways. Many dogs can communicate with other dogs by using their body, face, tail, ears, and limbs. Dogs like being with other dogs, but they also build deep social relationships with people, becoming extremely devoted to certain individuals. To indicate that they want to play, dogs employ certain signs. When a dog invites others to play, it crouches on its forelimbs, stands on its hind limbs, and waggles or barks.

Housing

Dogs appreciate being in the presence of their human relatives. Spend as much time as possible teaching and playing with your dog. Select a dog that is appropriate for your living situation. Apartment living is not suitable for large, energetic dogs. Provide your dog with an indoor kennel and properly train him to utilise it. If a dog must be kept outside, it must have a suitably sized fenced yard, weather-appropriate shelter, food, and water. Tie-outs should only be utilised for short periods of time, and a tethered dog should never be left alone.

Grooming

Maintain the cleanliness of your dog’s coat. Because unclean coats can cause secondary skin illnesses, be prepared to bathe your dog with a gentle dog shampoo if it gets too dirty. Most dogs don’t require bathing more than once a month, however this varies greatly depending on breed and activity level. It’s important to remember that your dog’s coat will grow and will need to be trimmed by a dog groomer. If the fur gets too long between the toes, it might annoy the dog or hinder it from seeing well. Furthermore, the dog is prone to rake debris, such as twigs and grass, into its coat, causing pain.

Feeding and Diet 

Advanced, natural, or essential dog food are all good options for a well-balanced dog diet. Food should be matched to a person’s size and life stage. Treats should not account for more than 10% of the entire diet. It’s not a good idea to eat table scraps. Water that is clean, fresh, and chlorine-free is replaced on a regular basis. When feeding your dog, keep in mind that  Puppies should be fed 3 to 5 times per day, while older dogs should be fed 1 to 2 times each day.

As a general rule, stick to the manufacturer’s recommendations and talk to your veterinarian about your pet’s specific needs. Large, deep-chested dogs should be fed. 2 to 3 smaller meals a day can help to prevent Gastric Dilitation and Volvulus Syndrome, often known as bloat, a severe condition in which food becomes stuck in the stomach.

Common Health Issues

Diarrhea is a condition characterised by loose stools caused by a poor diet, stress, filthy living conditions, or another sickness. Determine the reason and therapy with the help of a veterinarian.

External parasites such as mites, fleas, and ticks cause itching, hair loss, and sickness. Use products made specifically for dogs. Make an appointment with a veterinarian.

Vaccination For Your Dog

A variety of immunizations are required for your puppy, including:

8-week period

The first instalment of the series (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus)

9 to 11 weeks

The second instalment of the series (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus)

12 week period

The final instalment of the series (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus)

Rabies is a disease that affects humans (required at 16 weeks and then annually)

Distemper is a disease that affects people (annually)

Handling

Carry a puppy or small dog by placing one hand under the dog’s chest and the hind legs and rump with your forearm or other hand. Lifting or grabbing your puppy or tiny dog by the forelegs, tail, or back of the neck is never a good idea. If you must raise a huge dog, do it from the underside, using one arm to hold his chest and the other to support his rear end.

Conclusion:

Having a dog is a lot of fun and really rewarding. Dogs, on the other hand, have complicated demands, and each dog is different. There isn’t a single “ideal” approach to care for all pets. Prior to purchasing a dog, learn more about the breed by speaking with other cat owners, trustworthy breeders, and rescue groups.

CategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Basilisk

The basilisk is a lizard native to tropical Central America that is long and thin. It’s usually green or green/blue in colour, with dark stripes running down the back of the tail and across the top of the abdomen. Males of the species are larger and have huge plumes on their heads, along their spines, and down their tails.

The basilisk will spend the most of its time in or among trees that are located over or near sources of water. When threatened, it may rear up on two legs and sprint exceedingly fast by utilising its tail to keep itself stable. To evade predators, the basilisk can even dive into water. Among the most intriguing features of this lizard is that it has hydrophobic scales on the underside of its feet, allowing it to run over water for brief periods of time. The lizard earned the moniker “Jesus Christ” as a result of this.

Appearance and Behaviour

Basilisks have a dazzling electric green body with light-blue, white, or grey markings as well as darker stripes. The basilisk’s belly is generally a lighter green than the rest of its body, creating a striking contrast.

Their stability is aided by their broad extremities. They are usually brownish or green, but they can also be vivid green, olive-brown, or tan. Their hybrid lines are duller, and their jaws and parallel strips are cream to yellowish. Newborn pigmentation is comparable to that of adults, except it is often more defined, and they have three lengthwise borders on the neck. The eyes of all generation species are rusty to tan in colour. While climbing, they have extended fingers with sharp studs. Males have larger combs than females, which are supported by growing sensory backbones that include a circular or spiky cranial, rear, and posterior comb.

The average length of a fully grown basilisk is between 24 and 36 inches. A female, which is always somewhat smaller than a male, can reach a height of 18-24′′. The tail is responsible for the majority of the length. The average lifespan of a basilisk is eight to 10 years.

What basking temperatures do basilisks need?

A basking area temperature of 90-95°F and a cool side temperature of 75-80°F are required for basilisks. The temperature in the enclosure should be kept between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Digital probe thermometers should be used to measure temperatures, with probes positioned on the basking spot and the floor on the cool side.

A thick, solid wood branch positioned towards the top should serve as the basking surface. Provide heat by placing a cluster of halogen heat lights on one side of the enclosure to resemble the sun. You’ll need enough lamps to heat an area the size of the lizard’s body evenly. Heat mats, red bulbs, and blue bulbs are ineffective and should be avoided.

The temperature should not drop below 75°F at night. To maintain the minimum air temperature, a lightless heat source, such as a radiant heat panel, can be utilized.

What humidity levels do basilisks need?

Basilisks need a humidity level of 50 to 80 percent. This can be maintained by spraying the vivarium with warm water on a daily basis. If your budget allows, you can purchase a mister or fogger to perform the work for you.

What do Basilisks eat?

Basilisks are omnivorous, which means they need to eat both animal and plant-based diets to receive enough nutrients. They are known to eat tiny creatures like lizards, snakes, fish, rodents, birds, and frogs, as well as fruit and certain fresh greens, despite their preference for insects. Depending on their age, they require different amounts of food:

  • Hatchlings ( < 3 months old): Insects daily
  • Juveniles ( < 16” long): Insects and salad every other day
  • Subadults and adults ( > 16” long): Insects every 3-5 days, salad daily

Provide as much food variety as possible for a healthy, happy, colourful basilisk!

Crickets, discoid roaches, dubia roaches, earthworms, grasshoppers, hornworms, silkworms, mealworms, superworms, snails (captive-bred exclusively), pinkie/fuzzy mice, entire fish, chicks, feeder anoles are all good protein sources for basilisks.

Roaches

Collard greens, cactus pads, spring mix, arugula, kale, alfalfa, bok choy, carrot greens, spinach, dandelion greens/flowers, hibiscus greens/flowers are also good selections for basilisks.

Salad

Fruit should only be consumed as a treat due to its high sugar content. Berries, mango, cantaloupe, and papaya are among the fruits available.

Do basilisks like to be handled?

These lizards are often hesitant to be handled. This is especially true for people who have been caught in the wild. When confronted, they frequently snap or flee and begin leaping from the room’s surfaces, which can indicate wounds and nervousness. These lizards are a secondary alternative if you’re looking for a peaceful and well-managed reptile.

If you intend to touch your Basilisk, you can try to gradually build a connection with the creature. Test feeding a few meals with a pair of tweezers; once they start eating from the tongs, see if they will eat from your palm.

You can begin slowly pulling them up without restricting them once they associate you as the pleasant owner who supplies them; make this close to the area so they don’t damage themselves if they fall off. After nearly a year of building confidence, you’ll notice a major change in their personalities.

Cleaning

To keep your surroundings healthy, do a regular spot clean to catch any excrement or uneaten food. A thorough cleaning should be performed once a month. This entails taking down all decorations as well as the substrate. Clean with a reptile-safe disinfectant and a paper towel. In the same way, you can clean your decorations. Before putting them back in the enclosure, make sure they’re completely dry.

Cleaning should be done during the day so that your lizard can return to the vivarium for at least an hour before the temperature drops for the night.

How much space do green basilisks need?

Basilisks are native to a tropical climate, thus they suffer in the UK’s colder climate and require heating and illumination to survive. We recommend keeping a basilisk in a hardwood vivarium to help maintain temperatures stable and shield against the cold. For an adult, we recommend an enclosure that is as near to 4 x 2 x 3ft as possible due to the temperature gradient required for this species.

When choosing a vivarium, look for one with plenty of huge vents and glass sliding front doors. All of this ventilation should prevent heat from escaping from one side of the enclosure to the other while maintaining a steady temperature in the basking region.

In wide open spaces, young basilisks may feel vulnerable and terrified, so make sure there are plenty of decorations. As the basilisk grows in size and becomes accustomed to its surroundings, these can be removed, giving it more room to roam around and bask within the enclosure.

What substrate is good for basilisks?

The substrate should be soil, soil mixtures, leaf litter, or bark wood chips to keep the environment at the proper humidity level. If you want to make a bio-active enclosure, use a nutrient-dense soil mix and add a drainage layer beneath your substrate. For this lizard, coconut husk is an excellent choice. Calcium sand can also be used.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.

Calcium Sand

Calcium sand is one of the most attractive surfaces for lizards. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages basilisk natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.

Soil Mixture

Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!

Basilisk potential health issue

Even if you’re providing care for your lizard, you should always be on the lookout for disease.

  • Parasites- 

Internal parasites like roundworm and hookworm can be very harmful to reptiles. Contact with another diseased reptile, contaminated objects, or infected food can cause a captive lizard to become parasitized. Lack of appetite and weight loss, regurgitation of meals, changes in behaviour, and loose stool or diarrhoea are all signs of a parasite infection. Make sure the vivarium is clean on a regular basis to avoid parasitic infestation.

  • Metabolic Bone Disease-

Lack of UVB lighting is a common reason. Reptiles are unable to convert calcium without vitamin D3, and they are unable to generate vitamin D3 without adequate UVB illumination. A UVB bulb that covers half to two-thirds of the vivarium will suffice.

  • Vitamin A deficiency-

Vitamin A is obtained from a number of plants in the wild, but it is more difficult to obtain in captivity. Vitamin A is essential for preserving strong vision. Vitamin A is found in most reptile supplement powders and can also be purchased separately.

  • Rostral (nose) Injuries-

The behaviour of nose banging is common in agitated lizards. They dash about the vivarium, slamming their noses against the walls. Open wounds are common and can become infected quickly.

Conclusion

Basilisks can make excellent pets after you are familiar with their basic maintenance and temperament. They may not be the most cuddly of pets, but they are fascinating to watch and have a lengthy lifespan.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

CategoriesDogs As Pet Lifestyle Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
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10 Best Dogs As Pet

The bond between people and dogs has long been recognised as one of the strongest in the world. Their lovely looks and upbeat demeanors bring so much joy into our lives. Your puppy can help you improve your health and social life by helping you get in shape and meeting new people. There are several dog breeds to choose from. However, not every dog is made equal. Based on characteristics like health, personality, and general popularity, these are the top ten dog breeds.

1. Labrador Retriever

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most popular dog breeds for a reason. These dogs are lively, patient, loving, protective, and dependable. Another advantage is that Labs are quite clever and respond well to instruction. They need a lot of exercise, and they love to swim, so be sure your family is up to the task. Make certain kids have enough space to run around and play.

Whether they’re Black Labs, Chocolate Labs, or Yellow Labs, they all have the same stamina, strength, and loyalty that has made them so popular. These friendly dogs get along with other animals and almost everyone they encounter, and their short coats mean they only need to be combed once a week to be clean and healthy. However, because Labradors shed, you should be prepared to clean up their fur on a frequent basis.

2. French Bulldog

Anyone who sees a French bulldog strolling down the street can’t help but grin. Their huge bat ears and burly tiny bodies make them one of the most recognised breeds on the planet. Yet Frenchies are used to being the centre of attention, readily establishing friends with both people and other animals. These bouncy dogs were popular among the Parisian aristocracy in the 1800s, and they are still popular among city people today. They don’t bark much, don’t require much activity, and are tiny enough to not take up too much space on the couch!

3. German Shepherd

For good reason, German Shepherds are frequently used as police and military dogs. They’re courageous, loyal, and extremely intelligent. German shepherds are alert dogs who guard their owners in the same way as their forefathers guarded flocks of sheep, which was the breed’s original purpose. However, they like playing with children, especially during their puppy years. A well-socialized German shepherd makes an ideal family companion due to its calm disposition and patient nature. Just make sure you can provide them with lots of activity!

4. Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever is a self-assured, intelligent, loving, and loyal dog. The Golden Retriever is neither aggressive nor timid, and they are incredibly patient, making them an ideal companion for children. Despite the fact that the breed requires a lot of activity, they like playing. You’ll frequently discover that the playful Golden Retriever is also friendly and obedient, ensuring that your children will fall in love with him right away. Brushing their gorgeous golden coats twice a week is required for proper upkeep.

5. Bulldog

The Bulldog is the breed to choose if you want a loving, patient dog who will act kindly toward children. The Bulldog is built to last and is ideal for children. He won’t, however, be recognised as the “most active dog.” The Bulldog is a calm, sociable, and loyal dog who gets along well with other pets and canines. The Bulldog feels at ease in both large and tiny apartments. Most are also friendly to outside guests and get along with other dogs, making them ideal for a busy, sociable home. Because of their modest size, they may be used in both large and small homes.

If you’re thinking of obtaining a Bulldog, bear in mind that their constricted jaw requires additional attention when it comes to tooth cleaning, and wheezing, snoring, and drooling are all part of the package. To avoid dirt accumulation, the creases around their tail and face wrinkles will need to be cleansed. Their coat, on the other hand, requires very little attention.

6. Beagle

Since of their tiny size, Beagles are easy to transport! This breed is ideal for families because of its peaceful disposition. Beagles were bred to be hunting dogs, and because of their robust physique, they are never too weary to play games. If your children enjoy being outside, this breed will fit right in because there is nothing they enjoy more than getting outside and exploring the trails. With the exception of a little chasing here and there, the Beagle is a smart, sociable, and happy dog. They do shed, therefore brushing and washing are required on a regular basis.

7. Poodle

Aside from its unique hairstyles, the Poodle is a highly intelligent and kind dog. This dog breed is proud and beautiful, loving and devoted, and seldom annoyed or bored. Poodles come in both miniature and normal sizes, allowing you to select the Poodle size that best suits your living situation. They’re ideal for youngsters with allergies because they don’t shed much. Each breed has its own set of advantages. For example, the Standard Poodle breed is obedient, intelligent, playful, and adventurous. They get along well with individuals and children they know, despite their shyness towards strangers. Miniature Poodles, on the other hand, have a tendency to devote themselves to a single person, although they get along well with other pets and children. They are intelligent, responsive, obedient, and amusing. However, regardless of the Poodle breed, grooming is required on a regular basis.

8. Rottweiler

Rottweilers are a famous breed that dates back to the Roman Empire. Rottweilers are loyal to their owners and might be hesitant to warm up to outsiders. They’re hard workers with a history as herders and guardians, but they also love a nice hug at the end of the day. Because of their height and strength, this breed is best suited to experienced dog owners who have the time and patience to provide ongoing training and socialisation throughout their lives—both of which are necessary for keeping these clever pups happy and healthy.

9. German Shorthaired Pointer

A German shorthaired pointer is the ideal companion for outdoor enthusiasts (GSP). This dog is always ready for an adventure, whether it’s swimming, hunting, or going for a walk around the neighbourhood. GSPs have a lot of energy, so they’re best suited to active families, especially those who spend a lot of time outside.

10. Dachshund

It’s the world’s most popular weenie! The dachshund is a tiny dog with a big personality and a lot of energy. Despite being a more independent breed, they make a wonderful pet in almost any sort of home if given the right care. However, don’t leave doxies alone for lengthy periods of time; they have a loud bark and aren’t hesitant to express themselves. Dachshund owners should have tolerance and a good sense of humour to match their furry friend.

Which Dog Is Best For You?

Dogs can teach children responsibility, compassion, and collaboration while also providing the finest playmates imaginable. It’s usually a good idea to investigate the ideal dog breed for your children and lifestyle before you acquire any puppy. Some canines are better suited as playmates for boisterous older children, while others have gentle, patient personalities that are more suited for small children. Consider adopting an older dog if you have small children at home. 

Your choice may be influenced by your living circumstances, schedule, degree of activity, and money. When you bring a new pet into the family, you should anticipate continuous, caring training. Learning how to engage with animals in a safe and polite manner will also help your child. Remember to set aside time for walking, playing, feeding, and grooming as a family! Your team won’t be able to picture life without their canine companion if they have one of these charming, caring dog breeds.

Conclusion

Dogs are better than any other pet because they are incredibly devoted and comfort, defend, and adore their owners unconditionally. Remember that while these dogs may have traits that make them ideal family companions, regular training and socialisation will be required to help them become decent canine citizens.

CategoriesHorse Bedding Lifestyle Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding
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Most Popular Breeds Of Horse

Horses are without a doubt one of humanity’s oldest friends. Horses were mainly tamed and utilised for transportation or labour hundreds of years ago. Horse populations have declined in recent years, but they remain popular.

As a horse enthusiast, you have over 350 breeds to pick from across the world. However, there are five distinct breeds and five broad horse categories that stand out and grab the hearts of horse enthusiasts worldwide. These horses are known for their versatility and pleasant personalities. Depending on your requirements, each variety has its own set of capabilities. A horse will set you back a few hundred dollars, so choose wisely. Here are ten of the most well-known horses.

1. American Quarter Horse

The American quarter horse is one of the most popular and oldest horse breeds in North America. The popularity of the breed derives from its numerous good qualities, such as gentleness, adaptability, attractiveness, speed, agility, and loyalty. Quarter horses are appropriate for all levels of riders and owners since they are sociable and easy to teach. They’ve been race horses, ranch horses, and family pets, among other things. They have a robust structure and come in a variety of hues, the most common of which being sorrel (brownish red). They may weigh anything from 950 to 1,200 pounds. They can reach a maximum size of 14 hands (56 inches) to 16 hands (64 inches). They have a muscular build, a deep chest, and a tiny head with a broad forehead and a flat profile. They have a 25-year lifespan.

2. Arabian Horse

Thousands of years have passed since the Arabian horse was created. It has long been a popular breeding horse due to its stunning appearance and calm temperament. Almost every light horse breed has benefited from the grace, energy, and intelligence of Arabians. Many pony and warmblood breeds may trace their origins back to the athletic Arabian. They may weigh between 800 and 1,000 pounds. They reach a maximum size of 14 hands (56 inches) to 16 hands (64 inches). They have a slim, compact body with a tiny, wedge-shaped head and a long, arching neck. They have a 30-year lifespan.

3. Thoroughbred Horse

Thoroughbreds are North America’s most popular racing horses. This breed is noted for its agility, speed, and enthusiasm, and is classified as a “hot-blooded” horse. It’s a versatile horse that excels in a variety of equestrian disciplines outside racing, including dressage and jumping. Alternatively, it may just exist as a companion animal for pleasure riding. Thoroughbreds may be anything from 15 hands (60 inches) to 17 hands tall (68 inches). The majority of them are about 16 hands (64 inches) tall. They weigh between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds on average. Thoroughbreds are available in every hue of solid equine coat. Bay, brown, chestnut, black, or grey are the most common colours. Coat patterns with more than one hue are often overlooked by breed registries.

4. Appaloosa Horse

Horses with spots have existed for millennia. The Appaloosa is one such spotted horse breed that has captured the hearts of horse enthusiasts for ages. Appaloosas are recognised for being kind, sociable, and devoted friends in addition to their remarkable beauty. They have a strong desire to please, making them an excellent horse breed for equestrians of all levels of expertise. The average height of an Appaloosa horse is 14 hands (56 inches) to 15 hands (60 inches), however some can be a little taller. It weighs between 950 and 1,200 pounds on average. Red roan, blue roan, bay roan, grey, palomino, chestnut, cremello/perlino, grulla, dun, buckskin, black, brown, dark bay, or bay are some of the Appaloosa’s basic colours. Bald, blaze, snip, stripe, and star are some of the facial hues and patterns. Eel, pastern, ankle, half-pastern, coronet, stocking, half-stocking, and lightning markings can all be seen on the legs.

5. Morgan Horse

Morgan horses are one of the most popular horse breeds because they are kind and adaptable. It’s known as “the horse that picks you” since it’s a very cooperative breed that loves to please its owners. The Morgan is a versatile tool that may be used in almost any scenario. It is also very simple to maintain. Morgan horses may be handled by equestrians of all abilities, including youngsters. Morgan horses are smaller than many other full-size horse breeds, standing between 14 and 15 hands (56 and 60 inches) tall. Because there is no set size for horses, they might be shorter or taller. Morgans weigh between 900 and 1,000 pounds on average. Morgan horses come in a variety of equine hues. Dark, solid hues, such as bay, black, and chestnut, are common. However, some breeders specialise in creating Morgans in unusual colours such as palomino, pinto, grey, dun, roan, and others. This element of the Morgan’s look has no recognised breed standard.

6. Warmblood Horse

Warmblood refers to a group of breeds with unique personalities. They blend the characteristics of “hot-blooded” horses like Thoroughbreds with the placid attitude of “cold-blooded” breeds. Warmbloods are popular for sports activities because they are hefty and sprint well. Warmbloods have a big population all over the world as a result of mixed breeding. The population is projected to be in the range of 840,000 people. As a result of inbreeding, their numbers are gradually increasing. Warmbloods are prevalent throughout Europe, particularly in Belgium and the Netherlands. Dressage and competitive activities are the most common uses for them.

7. Shetland Pony

The Shetland Pony is a tiny horse with a height of 71 to 107 cm. This breed is widely regarded as one of the most intelligent horse breeds, and it is frequently employed in trick training.

Despite their little size, they excel in equestrian activities. The horse is a fantastic family horse since it may be ridden by children under the age of sixteen. Shetland Ponies may live for up to 30 years. Over 100,000 ponies are kept on the Shetland Islands, with the finest kinds being preserved there.

Due to the severe regions in which they originated, the ponies evolved into robust creatures. Because of their wide bodies and thick coats, they can endure harsh winters. Families frequently keep them as pets.

8. Clydesdale

The Clydesdale is one of America’s most well-known cold-blooded horses. This Scottish breed is tall and strong, making it an excellent choice for farming. They are ideal for novice riders and families because of their calm and trainable character. With a population of fewer than 5,000 horses worldwide, this breed is not very prevalent. In America, however, the number of Clydesdales has steadily grown over time. This breed thrives mostly in farmlands and pastures as a typical draught horse.

9. Gaited horses 

Horses that have been selectively bred for a smooth ride or ambling stride are known as gaited horses. These horses have a four-beat movement and travel at a medium speed. For elderly riders, those with joint difficulties, and anybody else looking for a non-bouncy ride, breeds including the Tennessee walking horse, Kentucky mountain saddle horse, Icelandic horse, and paso fino are popular alternatives. One thing that all gaited breeds have in common is that they are strong, reasonable mounts that don’t ask too much of the rider. Some horses with natural gaits, particularly those with lateral ambling gaits like pace and stepping, may struggle to learn to canter. You’ll probably need a gaited trainer to assist your horse learn to canter if he’s laterally inclined. The majority of gaited horses have a high-headed appearance, with their heads positioned higher on their shoulders than on their backs. Compared to racehorses trained for speed, gaited horses are more commonly employed for pleasure riding and driving.

10. Andalusian Horse

The Andalusian is a magnificent, strong horse that originated in southern Spain. This breed is noted for its graceful mane and strong activity levels. It’s a hot-blooded horse known for dressage rings and parades due to its very nimble temperament. Andalusians are known for their agility and stamina, making them ideal candidates for long-distance running contests. In the wars of Spain’s history, the Andalusian played an important part. Due to their tranquilly, they are housed on farmlands in preparation for competitive events.

Which Breed Of Horse Is Best For You?

Beginners should avoid untrained and energetic horses in general; they can be challenging for even experienced equestrians. The American Quarter Horse is a breed that may be too exuberant for someone who has never owned a horse before. Similarly, Andalusian horses’ agility may make them difficult to handle for novices. Exceptions exist, as with any breed, and it all boils down to the individual horse’s age, experience, training, and attitude.

Conclusion

Horses are still one of the most popular pets among people. They can be used for recreational riding, competitive sports, or simply for pleasure. For each of these activities, there is a suitable horse breed that you may choose based on your requirements.

Different breeds have distinct personalities and qualities that set them apart. Before opting to invest in a popular horse breed, it’s important for a horse enthusiast to carefully consider all of these aspects.

CategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding Snake Habitat
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10 Best Snake As Pet

Snakes are interesting creatures, and with proper treatment, the majority of them may be kept as pets. Snakes, on the other hand, are clearly not suitable pets for everyone. They have certain requirements and should only be cared for by someone who is committed to meeting those criteria. Find out things to think about before getting a pet snake and which species are best for beginners if you’re new to snakes. The most popular pet snakes are listed here.

1. Corn Snake

The Corn Snake is the most common snake for beginners.

They are found in terrestrial environments and are native to the United States. These snakes are generally red-brown to orange in hue, with dark red-black blotches, however many captive-bred snakes come in a variety of colours.

Corns are 10-12 inches long when young and grow to be 3-4 feet long when fully grown. They can be caught in the wild (by experts), but captive-bred animals are healthier and have superior temperaments.

A 20 gallon aquarium, roughly the size of a medium-large fish tank, can house an adult Corn Snake, and the temperature in the tank should fluctuate from 72°F to 90°F from one side to the other.

Pinky mice are a main food of corn snakes in captivity. They have minimal medical difficulties, and any complications that do occur are usually due to inadequate husbandry. They have a lifespan of up to 20 years. Overall, they have a simple care regimen and a kind disposition that makes them easy to handle and care for, even for novice snake owners!

2. King Snake

Kingsnakes may not be the most colourful of the colubrids. They are typically completely black, black and white, or a brown and white combination. However, there are different hues. They may reach a height of 3.5 to 4.3 feet.

The Mexican black kingsnake’s hue is solid black. When it comes to the kingsnake, this colouring is unique and simple to spot. The Mexican black kingsnake is a good choice if you want an inky black snake. It’s simple to look after. Adults require a 40-gallon cage of standard size. They don’t necessitate any extra attention. They have a lifespan of 15 to 33 years. For novices, King Snakes are the finest option.

3. Ball Python

Ball Pythons receive their name from the “ball” they prefer to curl up in when they want to be secure.

They are native to West and Central Africa and like to dwell in grasslands, where they are most likely to burrow in rodent tunnels. They like to keep concealed during the day and are most active at night.

They’re usually brown with lighter spots, but captive-bred ones are a different storey. Ball Pythons are available in a wide range of colours. Adults are about 3.5-5 feet long and live for 20-30 years.

Ball Pythons are gentle animals who avoid biting. When they are threatened, they like to curl up in a ball. These Pythons devour mice, but their dietary preferences make novice herpetologists nervous. Freshly killed or frozen food is preferred by these pythons.

Ball Pythons are a popular first snake because, aside from their occasional food aversion, they have a simple care regimen and are extremely easy to handle.

4. Rosy Boa

Rosy Boas have a brown-rosy-pink coloration and adapt well to captivity. They may be found all throughout the west coast of the United States, as well as sections of Mexico.

Rosy Boas are naturally interested and don’t bite or attack. They’re also great for novices because they like being handled.

In captivity, they can survive for up to 30 years. They are known for being docile reptiles that are easy to care for and need less husbandry, although they are not as well-known as the top three snakes on our list!

5. Gopher Snake

The Gopher, often known as the Bull or Pine Snake, is a reptile that is native to the western United States.

They’re often mistaken for rattlesnakes, but amateurs can tell the difference since they don’t have fangs and have a rounded nose and pupil. This reptile can be nocturnal or diurnal, although it is highly active in both modes.

These snakes are slightly longer than many others on this list, reaching a maximum length of 4.5 feet.

They hiss and shake their tails like rattlesnakes when threatened, although they are not poisonous. Although their bite is terrible, they only bite in self-defense.

A tamed and bred hostage for beginners, the environment should be calm.

They may live up to 20 years and like sunbathing, therefore a basking lamp will be required in their vivarium.

6. Garter Snake

Garter snakes are one of the most common snakes in the United States, with dozens of subspecies. These snakes are fantastic in captivity and have calm, gentle temperaments, despite their frequent sightings in the wild. Garter snakes are usually thin and tiny, reaching a length of two to four feet. They are available in a wide range of hues.

This snake is distinguished by its unusual diet, which includes tiny fish and worms, as well as rodents and amphibians. The garter snake is also active throughout the day, which is a fascinating feature. Garter snakes have a ten-year lifespan.

7. Boa Constrictor

The boa constrictor is one of the world’s biggest snakes. They also live for a very long time. They can even live to be beyond 40 years old. If you want to retain a boa constrictor, you must be serious about it. The B. c. imperator, often known as the Colombian boa constrictor, is the most popular boa constrictor breed. These often reach a height of 5.5 feet.

Boa constrictors are magnificent creatures that like exploring, but they are not the easiest snakes to look after. They need big, humid enclosures. They are also costly to get. These magnificent and unique snakes are not for novices, but they are a must-have for any snake aficionado.

8. Carpet Python

The Carpet Python is an Australian native with a wide range of colours and kinds. This Python is a little longer than other snakes, reaching an average length of 6-6.5 feet. They have a lifespan of up to 20 years.

In terms of temperature, lighting, and food, these snakes follow most of the same husbandry guidelines as the others on this list. They’ll require high temperatures, consistent illumination, and rodents to survive.

Carpet Pythons are snappy as babies and juveniles, but if they are handled regularly as children, they become more patient as adults.

Because of this, some novices choose to begin with a milder option, but it isn’t to suggest that a nice Carpet Python won’t make a good pet for most people.Most beginners adore them because of the wide range of colours available. 

9. Green Tree Python

The green tree python is a fascinating and visually appealing snake. These unusual snakes are born in colours of yellow, orange, or red. They may reach a height of 4.9 to 6 feet. They change colour and become green as they mature.

They may grow to be fairly huge, therefore a large enclosure is required. Despite its name, tree pythons require a broad enclosure rather than a tall one since they spend nearly all of their time resting on a branch.

If you want the snake to be happy, get a terrarium that is 36 x 18 x 18 inches. Biak, Aru, Jayapura, Sorong, Manokwari, and Wamena are popular pet snake breeds of this species. The morphs are called after the countries from whence the snakes originate.

Temperatures between 88 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for these snakes. They require a lot of humidity because they are tropical snakes. Humidity should not go below 40%. You must spray the cage on a daily basis. They have a life expectancy of 20.6 years.

10. Milk Snake

The Milk Snake, is a distinct species of the King Snake.

They are endemic to the United States and Mexico, and their body rings are usually black, white, or red.

They are often found in the woods or rocky places, and they like to absorb heat from rocks and logs rather than the sun, so an under tank heater may be preferable for them. They require only the most minimal of care and can survive for up to 20 years.

This little reptile may grow up to 2 feet in length during its first few years.

Milk Snakes, like other King snakes, are gentle and rarely bite.

Which Snake Is  Best For You?

There is no such thing as the best pet snake. Each snake keeper/enthusiast has a favourite pet snake based on their personal preferences. The ball python, the corn snake, the green tree python, and the gopher snake are the most common pet snake species.

The diversity of the ball python is praised. When it comes to ball pythons, there are thousands of established morphs on the market. They are really well-liked.

Although the green tree python is not a docile pet, it is incredibly gorgeous. They are, in our opinion, the best display snake you can have. They spend the day curled up on a limb, where everyone can see them. Corn snakes and gopher snakes are popular in the United States. They are simple to locate and to care for.

Please keep in mind that all snakes have certain demands, including a consistent source of heat, so unless you’re ready to satisfy those requirements, a snake may not be the ideal choice for you.

Conclusion

Almost all of the snakes in our list of ten are gentle and easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners! If you’re new to reptile ownership, consider which one is ideal for you depending on your lifestyle, such as temperament, handling, and looks. New owners of any snake should be familiar with correct care, feeding, behavioural traits, and the level of commitment necessary to retain the snake.

Reptile petting is one such occasion habit seen in rarity, for you to raise them in full conscience  need as much information as possible, read more for a complete guide on each pet to wish to raise.

CategoriesHorse Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding
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Choosing Best Bedding For Your Horse

Introduction

Have you ever considered different options for your horse’s bedding? Would you want to test with a less messy and simpler to keep in your barn and shed? Maybe you’re looking to improve your compost pile and want to discover how horse bedding affects that? 

It’s critical to choose the proper sort of stall bedding for your horse’s health, comfort, and safety. There are several options available, ranging from classic straw and wood shavings to modern alternatives like rubber mats, making it difficult for horse owners to choose. Coconut Bedding is one of the natural and safest bedding options you may choose.

Whatever type of bedding you choose, it must keep your horses warm, dry, secure, and healthy.

There are various equine materials available. Before choosing the bedding you have to check the criteria for selecting the finest horse bedding for you and your horse.  In prior to avoiding any mishaps in the near future, let us take primary measures before preparing them a bed. 

Must read top 9 measures to be taken before laying bedding for your affectionate equines.

Here’s Common Bedding Options

Coconut Bedding

Coco bedding is made of 100% natural, biodegradable and environment-friendly, coconut coir husks, that far outperforms conventional material. Derived from coconut shells, this renewable material is soft and spongy. The fibrous material acts as insulators and offers a cushion- like comfort. The powdery peat material is a super absorbent and absorbs all the urine, lasts longer and emits less odor. We recommend EcoBed Equine Bedding is a highly comfortable, eco-friendly bedding. EcoBed is Safe, light weight, non-dust, allergen free, 100% naturally driven bed from finely Cultured Coconut Husk.

Advantages:

  • Holds up to five times of its weight in urine.
  • Cellulose structure traps the stringy ammonia odor in the urinated bed.
  • Repels flies, even when the bedding is soiled.
  • Low hoofed impact, imparts spongy-cushion bedding.
  • Used bedding can be composted and reused in garden and landscaping.

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Straw

For mares and young foals, clean straw is ideal. Some horses may consume straw bedding, which can be an issue if your horse is on a diet. Oat straw is not only more absorbent than wheat straw, but it is also more delicious. Any straw you use should be free of mould and dust. Saturated straw is difficult to clear out, and separating the manure from the clean bedding can take a long time, slowing down the cleaning process. A box stall should be appropriately bedded with two bales. During cold weather or in preparation for foaling, you may wish to add more.

Advantages:

  • It is inexpensive.
  • It looks great and gives off a natural vibe.
  • It decomposes into wonderful garden manure.

Disadvantages:

  • It causes allergic reactions in certain horses.
  • Some horses eat this bedding, which is not good.

Wood Pallets

Wood pellets are wood shavings that have been compressed and dried. Cleaning stalls using wood pellets, which break down into fluffy, absorbent wood shavings, is simpler for many individuals, and there is less waste bedding. The cost may be higher at first than wood shavings, but because there is so much less waste, the cost may be balanced out. The pellets appear hard and unappealing, yet a squirt from the water hose transforms them into fluffy bedding.

Advantages:

  • This type of bedding has a high absorption capacity.
  • Composting without dust is faster than shavings or straw.
  • It is completely dust free and eco-friendly bedding option.

Disadvantages:

  • When in pellet form, it might be slick.
  • When putting down the bedding, you’ll need to add water, which takes time.

Shredded Paper

Shredded paper is an excellent option if your horse chews his bedding. It isn’t dusty, however it is possible that the inks will cause skin allergies. Because paper is so absorbent, it will easily wick away moisture. It also decomposes fast, allowing your manure mound to decrease as it dries and decomposes.

Advantages:

  • It is affordable.
  • Dust-free and unpalatable – an excellent alternative for horses with allergies.
  • It creates a warm bed.
  • Wrapped bales are simple to handle and store since they are clean.

Disadvantages:

  • It’s important to keep an eye on the bed to make sure it doesn’t get too wet.
  • Easily blown around, resulting in an unkempt appearance.

Rubber Mats

Horses sleep on hard surfaces in their natural form and do not require a soft and comfortable bed, making rubber mats perfect for use in stables. They can save time and effort while mucking out by providing a strong yet comfortable surface with good absorption and cushioning. Rubber mats can be used alone or in conjunction with other bedding. Rubber mats, when used on their own, are unsightly and offer little to prevent a horse from getting cast. We recommend Stable Mats, They are of 100% high quality rubber mats obtained by re-vulcanization and recycling.

Advantages:

  • Protects against capped hocks, etc. by providing a comparably soft non-slip foundation.
  • It’s simple to clean up and can be hosed down.

Disadvantages:

  • It’s not aesthetically pleasing.
  • In the winter, it might look chilly and dry slowly.

Hemp

Hemp is non-allergenic, biodegradable, and dust-free than traditional beddings, thereby enhancing stable conditions and preserving horses’ and owners’ respiratory systems. They also claim to have greater odour absorption, faster breakdown, and more absorbency. Hemp’s greater thermal rating may be beneficial to those who live in colder regions, since it keeps horses warm while they sleep.

Advantages:

  • It is high absorbent and dust free material.
  • Lightweight and simple to muck out.
  • It quickly decomposes into fine compost.
  • Wrapped bales are simple to handle and store since they are clean.

Disadvantages:

  • Relatively Expensive

Wood Shavings

Shavings are a popular bedding option for horses. To pull dung out of the shavings without removing too much bedding, a special manure fork is required. As you spread the bedding, keep an eye out for wood splinters. Black walnut shavings can create serious issues, therefore softwood shavings are preferred. If you’re buying shavings from a local woodworker or timber mill, make sure you know what kind you’re getting. In a stall, about four inches of bedding makes it pleasant. You can use less stall mats if you utilise them.

Advantages:

  • It’s readily available in local store.
  • Easy to handle and store.

Disadvantages:

  • This bedding material is difficult to dispose.
  • Wet shavings causes ammonia.

Conclusion

Getting the appropriate bedding may be a trial and error affair. If you don’t like one type of bedding and want to try something else. Coconut Bedding is highly comfortable, eco-friendly bedding and it’s completely safe for your horse. The modern Stable Mats are 100% high quality rubber mats and non–slippery, non-abrasive, yielding a stable footing for the living. Whatever bedding you pick for your horses, it must keep them warm, dry, safe, and healthy.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet Turtle Caring Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Turtle – Box Turtle

Appearance

The box turtle has a tiny head and a hooked upper jaw, making it an intriguing pet with a distinct personality. Depending on the species or subspecies, their colour varies. Some have a lemon-yellow or olive-yellow head, and their shells range in colour from brown to olive-brown to black. Some have a large dark patch on their underside as well as black triangular markings with a brown or olive triangle behind the eye.

Their spines may be red or light brown in colour, or they may have three longitudinal stripes. By the time they reach the age of 15, box turtles should have reached the end of their growth cycle. Adults are around five inches tall and weigh 400 grammes on average. Box turtles live for 30 to 50 years on average, but some have lived up to 100 years!

Behaviour

Box turtles are not intended as pets for young children or inexperienced pet owners. This is owing to their extensive care requirements and vulnerability to stress, both of which can negatively impact a turtle’s health. You can expect to spend at least a week cleaning and maintaining their enclosure, as well as feeding them every day or two.

Box turtles prefer to remain in a consistent environment and avoid being touched by humans. They don’t usually bite, however nervousness caused by overhandling can cause them to nip someone. Furthermore, they can contain salmonella, so wash your hands carefully after handling your turtle or anything in its habitat. Most box turtles will remember their keepers once they’ve become accustomed to their surroundings, even following a person’s motions from inside their cage or asking for food.

Temperature Requirements

Daytime temperatures for common box turtles should be at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature might dip between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. To assist manage the temperature, use a basking lamp, ceramic heat emitters, or other heat sources.

For box turtles to digest the calcium in their meals, UVB illumination is required. They may get metabolic bone disease and possibly die if they don’t get it. 2 Box turtles require around 12 hours of UVB illumination each day, which may be obtained from natural sunshine or a UVB lamp. To simulate a natural day-night cycle indoors, turn off the lamp at night.

Humidity

A humidity level of approximately 60% is ideal for box turtles. This may be achieved by misting on a regular basis and utilising a substrate that maintains moisture.

Housing

A wooden vivarium is required for a typical box turtle’s enclosure. This is because wood is a great heat insulator, thus a wooden vivarium will make it simpler to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. The wooden vivarium should be well ventilated to allow for enough air flow in and out of the enclosure, as well as sealed to keep moisture and humidity out.

For a juvenile, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long, and for an adult, 1150mm (46″) long. The cage must be heated at one end and cold at the other, with enough space between them for the temperature to decrease.

Diet 

Vegetation, turtle food, live feeder insects, and flesh make up a box turtle’s diet. Dropping crickets or locusts into the pool for the live food component because they are both healthy and simple to digest. Snails and worms are common additions to the meat component of the diet.

Dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette, and bell peppers are all suitable for the vegetation component of the diet. Leafy greens should make up the majority of the vegetation. Supplements can be dusted on the salad, but we wouldn’t dust the turtle food, meat, or live food since we don’t want to contaminate the turtle’s pool water.

Handling

It is critical for both you and your turtle to maintain excellent cleanliness. So, before you start touching anything, wash your hands.

  • Before you decide to handle them, make sure they aren’t resting or feeding, and consider whether or not they are in the mating season.
  • Pick up your turtle with both hands from both sides of its shell.
  • Don’t squeeze your turtle, but make sure it doesn’t squirm out of your hands while it’s flying.
  • Picking up your turtle by the limbs or turning it fast is not a good idea.
  • Even though turtles are gentle, they do best when handled just for examinations and cleaning.

Substrate Nature

The substance that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s habitat is called substrate. It aids in humidity retention and satisfies the turtle’s need to burrow. Furthermore, it can give the enclosure a more natural appearance and feel. As a result, try to choose a substrate that closely resembles the turtle’s native habitat. Chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss are popular among gardeners. Wood chips help your turtle to burrow, so make sure you layer it at least 4 inches deep. It is not recommended to utilise soil or gravel since they might induce intestinal obstruction if consumed.The best choice of substrate is Coconut Husk. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell

Gravel

Gravel is one of the simplest and most cheap turtle tank substrate alternatives. It comes in a variety of hues. It’s simple to use, turtle-safe, and won’t alter the pH or chemistry of your tank’s water.

Advantages:

  • Colored natural materials with a non-toxic finishing
  • Turtles can tolerate a fine texture.
  • The pH or chemistry of tank water will not be affected.

Disadvantages:

  • Rough edges may be seen on certain stones.
  • Blue substrates may not appear as natural as other colours.

Conclusion

Box turtles have extremely particular needs that necessitate a rigorous husbandry routine. After a few weeks, though, this maintenance becomes very easy for first-time owners. Many turtle owners establish a lifelong relationship with their pets since they are docile and cheap.

a-guide-on-pet-snake-caring-green-tree-pythonCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Green Tree Python

There are few other snakes that will receive more nervous glances from guests than the green tree python. They look more deadly than the truly venomous green tree viper.  But in reality, they are harmless. These arboreal snakes do spend a great deal of time in trees, but are active animals that need space to move and groove on the ground as well.

Table of contents

Behaviour

Although a bright neon green is a predominant colour in adults, they can also come in a wide variety of other colours. Hatchlings usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long, growing between 4 and 6 feet as adults, with females being thicker and longer than males. They can live up to 20 years of age with proper care.

These snakes have a reputation for being aggressive. Actually, the times they strike at handlers is when they are being approached from above or yanked aggressively from a limb. There are simple ways that a handler can prevent a crabby snake attack. Correct habitat design is one way, and will be discussed below.

Another way to keep your snake’s temper sweet is to always approach the animal from below. Imagine yourself sunning on a lounger beside the ocean, dozing off now and then in the pleasant warmth. Suddenly, a giant hand descends from the clouds to snatch you up and take you somewhere else that you may not want to be! You’d be crabby too.

Although this pet may not be a good choice for a hasty or thoughtless pet keeper, mindful handling generally prevents most snake and handler disagreements. With that being said, some races are just naturally more aggressive than others, such as the colourful Biak locality type. If ease of handling is important, then the potential python owner needs to consult with various breeders.  Those breeders will inform you which species have the most placid temperaments.

Most green tree pythons can be expected to live into their mid-teens with good care. A few have even made it into their mid-20s.

Temperature Requirements

Green trees originate from the rainforest, and they need it to be fairly humid. Like all reptiles, they are dependent on external thermoregulation to control their body temperature. This essentially means you need to provide a hot and a cool side to your enclosure. All the heat elements should be on one side and the other will then be the cool side. This way your green tree can move back and forth between the different temperatures depending on its needs.

The hot side basking spot should be at 86-88 degrees. The cool side can be between 78-80 degrees. At night, it can drop down to 72 ambient temperatures. The basking light should be housed in a good quality light dome like Exo Terra and Flukers that has a ceramic housing to tolerate high heat and an on/off switch. 

Humidity

The green tree python requires high relative humidity levels to thrive. The humidity levels need not drop below 40 percent. As a species native to tropical rainforest, the tree python experiences rain almost every day throughout the year. Similarly, you need to mist the enclosure daily using a spray bottle. The enclosure needs to dry between sprayings.

The snake will drink the water droplets on the leaves, and side of the cage. However, you need to provide a water bowl. The bowl should be heavy and sturdy so it is not easily overturned.

Lighting

As with most snakes, special UVB lighting is optional. However, to maintain the vivid green coloration of this python, it is a good idea to use a full spectrum light if the snake’s enclosure does not receive sunlight. An excellent full-spectrum light that also provides warmth is the Evergreen 100 Watt UVA/UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb which has already been mentioned. You can use a heat lamp that provides full-spectrum light. The lights need to be on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.

Handling

Green tree pythons have gotten a bad rap over the years. They have a reputation of being aggressive. The best thing to do if you want to handle your snake is to have a removable perch. Then you can remove the animal from its enclosure without disturbing it from its resting place. If you want to hold your snake, approach it from below, which is far less threatening than from above. Try not to pull the snake off of its perch. Gently lift the snake’s coils and offer your arm as another perch. Most green trees will tolerate limited handling. The handling aside, green trees make wonderful display animals.

Cleaning

Cleaning the habitat is fairly easy and should be done lightly once a week, and thoroughly once a month. Performing sanitation weekly is more beneficial for your snake. This is because snake feces can become rank in a musty way that is distinctively snake and definitely unpleasant.

You have to daily remove all the feces that you see. Remove and dispose of the top 1 inch of bedding and replace with fresh. You can do this once a week. Place dishwasher safe furniture in the dishwasher every two weeks.

Diet

As hatchlings, green tree pythons should be fed weekly on defrosted pinky mice, as the snake grows the food size should be increased. Adult green tree pythons can be fed once every two weeks as they can become overweight if fed weekly.

A large water bowl should be provided and the water should be changed every day to ensure there is always fresh drinking water.

Potential health threats

In order to detect health issues, you need to pay close attention to their appearance and behaviour. That way you can notice changes in appetite, weight, or movement. Common health issues that affect this reptile include dehydration, obesity, tail hanging, rectal prolapse (protrusion of bowels outside the cloaca during or after defecation), necrotic stomatitis (mouth rot), and MBD (metabolic bone disease).

If you notice changes such as lethargy, loss of appetite, regurgitation, wheezing cough, or bloody bowels, you should contact your local herp vet.

Substrate Nature

Most beginners’ tanks will have a glass bottom. Some advanced models may have a false bottom with some sort of screening to allow feces and urine to sift down. Similar to a fancy cat box type of setup. Absorbent sheets in the bottom of a false set up are fairly affordable.  And they will greatly reduce urine odour and eliminate urine from the substrate very quickly.

If you forgo the false bottom option, and start with a simpler, solid bottomed setup, you should line the bottom with either paper towels, or some other type of absorbent material.  A 2-inch layer of cypress shavings is favoured by most snake keepers. If possible, try to purchase cypress substrate from an earth-friendly supplier.  Aromatic woods such as pine and cedar should be avoided as they can cause lung and eye irritation.

The floor of the terrarium should be moist, not wet. It is of little consequence to the animal when deciding how to get there, there are many good choices. Coco base, whether they be fiber or chips. Mix them, layer them, lay them out uniformly – as long as it’s kept moist, you’ll be providing an appropriate substrate layer. Live or sphag moss can be centred around areas that get a lot of misting attention, around the water source is also a fine place to keep moss.

Bedding Type Available

Coconut Fiber

coco-bed-snake-husk-bedding

This may be the best choice for trying coconut bedding without paying a high price. The coconut does a great job of encapsulating and then breaking down odours from the waste. It also helps make the clean-up easier by clumping somewhat around the waste. This bedding is non-toxic and chemical free. This also makes the bedding fragrance-free, which is another sign of no chemicals. One of the best additional features of this coconut fiber bedding is the specific design to be dust-free. This is an organic product and safe for the environment.

Advantages:

·   Coarse material suitable for burrowing

·   Odour-free, Dust-free

·   No chemicals

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Newspaper and Paper Towel

Newspapers work and are easy as well as cheap.  Paper towels can work in rack systems and smaller cages. It’s versatile, so you can lay the newspaper on the bottom of your snake’s cage, or you can shred it to increase the surface area. It won’t hold on to urates that well, but the shredded newspaper is suitable for burrowing. Care must be taken to remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the python.

Advantages:

·   Affordable

Disadvantages:

·   Snake can’t easily burrow in newspaper

Cypress Mulch

Cypress Mulch Bedding are decent substrates and have the added benefits of looking more naturalistic as well as absorbing odours. Cypress mulch looks nice, again helping to create a natural-looking enclosure.

Advantages:

·   Retain moisture

·   It doesn’t mold

Disadvantages:

·   Costly

·   Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Conclusion

Many substrates are suitable for green tree python enclosures. Newspapers are easy to clean, but it’s not aesthetically pleasing for some people.
Whatever substrate you use, the 2-3 inches of depth. This is a good balance, allowing the corn snake to burrow. The best choice for you and your python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

ball python caringCategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding
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A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Ball Python

Ball pythons, or royal pythons as they are sometimes referred, are endemic to tropical western Africa, with the majority originating in the countries of Ghana and Togo. These snakes are secretive by nature, spending much time in underground burrows or abandoned termite mounds.

Behaviour

Ball pythons are among the smaller species of pythons commonly available to hobbyists. They typically measure 10 to 15 inches as hatchlings, and adults may reach lengths of 3.5 to 6 feet with just over 4 feet being average. Females are usually longer and heavier bodied than males. Properly cared for ball pythons can be expected to live for over 20 years.

The right substrate needs to be chosen for ball python to be comfortable. A healthy snake needs a healthy substrate. The substrate of choice depends on availability, affordability, and how easy it is to clean. There are many options available such as aspen shaving, cypress mulch, coconut fiber, and even paper towels.

There are a few things you need to know when choosing right bedding for Ball Python which includes following factors:

Temperature requirements

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

However, as tropical snakes, they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees. These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.

Humidity

Ball pythons require localized areas of high humidity within their cages. Once or twice daily misting of the entire enclosure with room temperature water in a hand spray bottle should be adequate in most situations.

Lighting

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, and do not require UVB lighting to thrive in captivity. However, use of a full spectrum light with low UVB output, such as a 2.0 bulb can be beneficial for promoting a regular photo-period, and displaying the snake to its best colours.

These are tropical snakes so they do require a heat source that can maintain an ambient daytime temperature of 80 degrees, with a basking spot around 95 degrees.  These temperatures can easily be achieved via the use of heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat pads. In fully enclosed cages such as vision cages and penn plax cages, use of a radiant heat panel can be a convenient and unobtrusive way to heat the cage.

Night time temperatures can be 10 to 15 degrees cooler overall, and usually little adjustment is needed on your part, as the typical home is cooler at night than during the day.Use of a thermometer, especially one that records a min and max temperature within the cage, is recommended.

Handling

Ball pythons are by far one of the easiest snake species to handle. Although hatchlings can be nervous and nippy, this behaviour usually disappears within the first few months of life. As naturally shy animals, ball pythons tend to be slow moving, and content to casually explore their surroundings by crawling through one’s hands.

Diet

All snakes are carnivores, and ball pythons are no exception. In captivity a diet of mice and rats will suffice. Even hatchling balls are capable of subduing and swallowing small, adult mice, while adults may require large rats.

Generally, food items should be offered once a week for the snake’s entire life. However, this regimen may change based on the age of the snake, time of year, and pre and post breeding conditions.

Habitat Maintenance

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week. Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3% bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly with water, removing all traces of bleach smell and dry the tank and furnishings completely and add clean substrate.

Cleaning

Whichever substrate you choose, spot clean as necessary. Due to the nature of snake urine and feces, complete changes of bedding and tank cleaning may be required frequently. If for some reason your python has managed not to make a mess for an entire month, the substrate should be replaced monthly, or at very least once every quarter.

 Enclosure

Ball pythons originate in the forests and grasslands of Africa, where the humidity is always relatively high. Different substrates will affect the humidity level of your enclosure differently. So must choose the substrates which can be helpful to maintain the humidity level. While not a particularly common activity, some ball pythons may enjoy burrowing and excavating in their substrate. Loose substrates that allow for this can enrich the life of your captive snake.

The damp moss and tight quarters help these shy snakes to feel safe and secure. Reptile bark (orchid bark), cypress mulch, pulverized coconut husk (bed-a-beast), or a mixture of both are prime choices. Avoid any excessively drying bedding including pine shavings, sand, or paper products. And never use a cedar bedding…cedar is toxic to all snakes! 

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

Coconut husk is made from roughly chopped chunks of coconut shell. It’s widely considered the best substrate choice for ball pythons and other tropical reptile and amphibian species. Coconut husk can absorb large amounts of water, so it helps drastically with maintaining adequate humidity levels. But this cannot be used for burrowing due to the large size of husk chunks.

Advantages:

·   Retains moisture.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   Dust free and odours free.

Disadvantages:

·   large chunks of coconut husk may cause impaction

Coconut Fiber

Coconut Fiber or coconut coir is made from very finely ground coconut shells. It creates a fibrous soil that can be dense or light and fluffy, depending on how moist it is. Coconut Fiber is excellent at retaining moisture and maintaining humidity, probably the best choice for this purpose. Being very soil-like in nature, coconut fiber is perfect for allowing your ball python to burrow.

Advantages:

·   It is the best for ball python eggs or at least one of the best.

·   It absorbs bad odours.

·   It doesn’t mold.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels for snakes.

Disadvantages:

·   Doesn’t retain humidity

Aspen Bedding

Aspen shavings may just be the best snake bedding. Ball python is comfortable on this bedding. This material is preferred because of its affordability and portability. They are absorbent, contain no toxic oils or resins, and are great for the environment. Aspen shavings do not help maintain humidity levels. In fact, they can dry the air out. Aspen bedding can be great for burrowing ball pythons.

Advantages:

·   It is very affordable.

·   It helps maintain optimal humidity levels.

·   Its light colour looks great in the snake’s vivarium.

·   It is super absorbent.

Disadvantages:

·   May need to be changed more often

·   Some customers report finding other materials in with the aspen

The bedding should be avoided are include

Cedar Shavings

Cedar wood shavings can help repel unwanted creatures. The phenols given off in the scent of cedar oil is repellent to snakes. Cedar has long been used in closets because it’s naturally resistant to insects and decay. Unfortunately, cedar is one of the most dangerous woods for reptiles and should not be used in their care at all. Reptiles exposed to cedar may exhibit respiratory symptoms or develop skin lesions.

Pine Shavings

Pine that has not been kiln dried contains volatile oils which can cause respiratory problems in reptiles. It can also cause these symptoms in small furries. This bedding is not suitable for snakes. They can cause lung and eye irritation. This bedding can be toxic.

Sand

Although a common substrate for many reptiles, sand unfortunately is notorious for promoting the growth of mold. On top of this, it also reduces humidity, can irritate the respiratory tract, and can cause impactions due to its clumping properties.

Paper Towels, Newspaper, and Butcher Block Paper

It is an easy-to-clean and simple aesthetic that makes them low maintenance and ideal for temporary husbandry. Paper will absorb moisture, but it’s not particularly useful for impacting the enclosure’s humidity. Ball pythons can’t exactly burrow and dig in sheets of paper, but some do enjoy hiding underneath it.

Conclusion

There are many safe and ideal types of substrates to choose from. The best choice for you and your ball python will depend on your situation and personal preferences. The type, source, and depth of substrate have a significant impact on your pet’s health and happiness.

Fortunately, if you aren’t happy with the substrate that you pick, you can always change it up during the next cage cleaning. If you switch it up enough and carefully observe your snake, you might even discover which one they enjoy the most!