pet-lizard-caring-bearded-dragonCategoriesLizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Bearded Dragon

The Bearded Dragon is widely regarded as one of the best lizard pets of all time. Bearded dragon owners like watching their lizards, whether during a feeding frenzy when chasing insects or simply socialising with one another, because they are noted for being vigilant, hardy, and tame. Bearded dragons have unique behaviours, such as “arm waving,” in which a female or male lifts one of their front legs in the air and “waves” it as a submissive gesture. The lizard’s prickly “beard,” from which it gets its common name, can also be stretched, though tame captives rarely do so; dragons often do so when disturbed.

Behaviour

Bearded Dragons come in a wide range of colours. The dragon’s ‘beard’ is the skin in the throat region that can flare out when it feels threatened or territorial. The spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body give the body a flattened appearance. The Bearded Dragon’s head is wedge-shaped, and its tail is almost as long as its body. Males and females are difficult to discern among hatchlings and juveniles. Hatchlings are around 4 inches long, and huge adults can grow to be nearly 2 feet long. Sexual differences become more obvious as they get older. Males have larger heads and darker beards than females. Males are distinguished from females by their bigger femoral pores. The average captivity lifespan is six to ten years, while some specimens have been reported to live twice as long.

Humidity, Heating & Lighting

Ectotherms are bearded dragons. To feel comfortable, they’ll need both a consistent source of heat and a cooled environment. A thermometer and a hygrometer (a device that monitors humidity) should be placed at each end of the dragon’s housing. When the humidity level is between 20% and 30%, your bearded dragon will thrive. A little misting once a day is sufficient if the humidity is less than 20%. To allow the basking location to be the habitat’s warmest spot during the day (about 100 F or 38 C) while simultaneously giving suitable levels of ultraviolet light, make sure your heat source is aimed on the same spot as your UVB bulb. The cool end should be around 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 29 C). At night, turn off the lights. To keep the temperature between 68- and 74-degrees Fahrenheit, use a ceramic heat emitter or a night heat lamp (20 to 23 C). Bearded dragons, like you, are active during the day and sleep at night. They prefer to spend roughly 12 hours every day sunbathing under a UVA/UVB light, unlike you.

What do bearded dragons eat?

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, as they eat both animal and plant matter. They aren’t choosy eaters and eat with pleasure. Crickets and mealworms should be given a vitamin/mineral supplement as well as calcium. Before giving the insects to your lizards, dust them by placing them in a plastic bag with some of the powder and shaking the bag to lightly coat the insects.

Offer finely chopped veggies to bearded dragons such as romaine lettuce, zucchini, carrots, etc.), greens (collard, mustard, dandelion, etc. and fruit like kiwi, banana, mango, etc. Appropriate number of powders should be sprinkled on these foods and healthy, vitamin-rich items should be used. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it is not nutritious.  Commercially accessible meals from major reptile product manufacturers can also be given. These foods are specially created for bearded dragons and can be a great addition to your bearded dragon’s daily diet of fresh foods. Pinky mice are also appropriate for bearded dragons, and a variety of nutritionally balanced manufactured diets are available at pet stores. If you’re keeping your dragons on sand, serve food in a shallow dish rather than putting it on the substrate.

Water for bearded dragon

Use a water spray bottle to mist bearded dragons. They’ll lick water droplets off cage walls, rocks, and other surfaces, as well as themselves. Don’t go overboard; you don’t want their enclosure to grow too damp and humid. Provide water in a large enough dish for them to soak in. Be sure to keep this dish and the water in it clean.

How can I keep my bearded dragon healthy?

Bearded dragons are more gentle than other lizard species and will accept handling better. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, such as adults who have lived their whole lives in captivity.

For the first three or four days, avoid handling your new reptile. They require some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Aside from yearly annual physical exams, if you notice any of the symptoms in your reptile, it may be time to see a veterinarian like more hiding time than usual, less eating and drinking, possibly even weight loss, swollen joints, discoloured and shedding skin, abnormalities with the eyes, nose, or mouth, runny or abnormal droppings for more than two days, lack of droppings for extended periods of time.

All animals have the ability to spread infectious viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases to humans. Before and after contact with any pet or its habitat, thoroughly wash your hands with warm, soapy water. After coming into contact with a pet, its habitat, or aquarium water, adults should help children wash their hands.

Interesting facts about Bearded Dragons

·   Their name comes from their “beard” of scales around the neck.

·   They wave to acknowledge each other.

·   They have plenty of behaviours unique to their species.

·   They love to sunbathe.

·   They can run up to 9 miles per hour.

·   They love going on walks on a leash.

·   They enjoy swimming.

·   They can regrow their teeth.

·   They can sleep standing upright.

·   They can run on two legs.

·   They can change their skin color.

·   They make a hissing noise when defending territory.

·   They produce venom.

·   Bearded dragons don’t urinate liquid.

Substrate for Bearded Dragons

A high-quality substrate is critical for your bearded dragon’s health and comfort. The medium that makes up the flooring in an enclosure is referred to as the substrate. Create a more comfortable and natural environment for the bearded dragon by using a substrate material. There are many various types of substrates to choose from, some of which are superior to others.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Coconut husks for little one and chips for larger reptiles are available. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. You can use it straight away without hydrating the compacted chip blocks for high-humidity reptile, or you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces, and scatter it around the container for low-humid seeking reptile. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.

Calcium sand and Playground sand

Calcium sand and playground sand are two of the most common substrates for bearded dragons. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages bearded dragons’ natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.

Another alternative is to use playground sand, which is relatively affordable and easy to get around. These may easily be found in pet stores. To be safe, bake playground sand in the oven at 350°F for around 15 minutes to eliminate any potentially harmful germs or bacteria. Replace sand-based substrates once a month, and clean up any spills immediately.

Cage Carpet

Cage Carpet developed exclusively for reptile terrariums. It looks like the green or brown indoor/outdoor carpet that was once used to imitate grass. This is a low-cost, low-maintenance alternative that is very effective. It’s simple to clean, replace, and maintain, as well as being reasonably priced. It’s not the most appealing substrate, but it’s one of the most secure. Because there are no small loose particles for the bearded dragon to swallow, there is very minimal chance of impaction when using this substrate.

Cage carpet is simple to clean and remove. At least once a week, remove the carpet and clean it with warm water and a light soap. Before returning the carpet to the terrarium, make sure it has been fully rinsed and dried. Any leftover food or waste should be cleaned as quickly as possible. The carpet should be replaced every three months or as needed.

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy approach is to use newspapers, which is generally readily available in the home. Cover the entire floor area with three or four layers of newspaper. Newspaper substrates should be replaced on a daily basis. Clean up any spills right away or as quickly as possible. While not particularly appealing, newspapers are a very cost-effective option.

best pet snake beddingCategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding Snake Bedding
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Bedding Choice for Pet Snakes

Are you looking for the best bedding for your snakes? Are you wandering which bedding type suits your snake? Irrespective of ball python, corn snake or garter snake you raise, each needs a comfortable place to dwell. 

Snakes are the sensitive beings that opt for soft-cushiony substrate under them. A smooth, non-abrasive and a highly absorbent bedding is what the serpents like the most. 

But some folks, there are few misconceptions on bedding snakes, they say ‘snakes are likely to use bedding the same as any other reptiles’. While the truth is, Snakes go well with any different kinds of beddings. 

Let’s us have a brief look over different types of bedding available for snakes, 

Cypress Mulch

Cypress mulch is the most widely accepted snake bedding ever. It renders a comfortable, nice look when spread along. It gives off great burrowing experience for snakes, and is easy to clean. It also retains moisture well, and maintains the right humidity as required by the snakes.   

Mats and mices cypress mulch as much as snakes, so need to look after the prevent those rodents from reaching out for the stored bedding. It also happens that, there exists mites and eggs in the loads of mulches all together. Then you might need to boil it or freeze the stock before using it.   

Advantages:

·   Great for burrowing snakes,

·   Maintains right humidity,

·   Natural and looks good,

·   Easy to clean and use. 

Disadvantages:

·   A persistent presence of mites and eggs.

Coconut Husk or Chips

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and outstanding options for snake bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and extremely aerated one to know. It comes in 2 grades, coconut husks for small snakes while chips for larger snakes. 

Its absorbance locks the odor intact, holds moisture longer and maintains humid temperature. You can make use of it as per your requirements. 

For high-humidity snakes, you can use it directly without hydrating the compressed chip blocks while for low-humid seeking snakes, you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces and spread it along the container.

Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergen, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable. 

Advantages:

·       Takes care of humidity,

·       100% natural and organic,

·       Suitable for low and high humid snakes,

·       User and pocket friendly. 

Disadvantages:

·   Not too advisable for borrowing ones, 

·   Can be dusty sometimes. 

Aspen Shavings

One of the best suited bedding for burrowing snakes are Aspen shavings. Like any other wood shaving bedding, aspen shavings help control odor, regulate humidity. 

Aspen shavings are the best substrate for burrowing. Like other wood beddings, they are good at controlling odours, but also susceptible to mites. Aspen shavings are not good for high humidity, since they can get moldy easily.

The fine particles can also get underneath the scales of larger snakes and cause irritation, so we would only use this for smaller snakes. Make sure the brand you choose is natural and does not use any dyes or other chemicals.

We actually recommend combining aspen shavings with coconut husk for snakes that need humid conditions, but also like to burrow. That way you get the best of both worlds.

Advantages:

·   Best bedding for burrowing

·   Natural look and feel

·   Odour control

Disadvantages:

·   Not good for large snakes

·   Not good in humid environments

·   Can get dusty

Fir Bark

Fir bark is another wood-based substrate and makes a good alternative to cypress mulch. They are very similar. As such, it is also susceptible to mites, but works great as bedding. It retains humidity well, is good for burrowing and keeps odors at bay. It is also easy to clean up.

Advantages:

·   Great for burrowing

·   Great for maintaining humidity

·   Natural look and feel

·   Easy to clean

Disadvantages:

·   Mites thrive in fir bark

Artificial Turf or Carpet

Artificial turf and carpeting can work well, but they have some obvious disadvantages that make them suitable only for certain species. Turf is preferable to carpet, since it mimics grass, but carpet scraps are generally cheaper.

The biggest disadvantage is that they obviously do not allow for burrowing, making them bad choices for snakes that like to dig. They also do nothing for humidity levels. Another problem is that they will absorb the odour of feces and urine over time.

You should always have at least 2 sets available, so that you can swap them out when one gets soiled to wash it. Even if you wash it well and immediately after the “incident”, a little bit of the smell sticks each time and it will keep growing. Eventually, you will have to completely replace the carpet or turf.

Advantages:

·   Can be washed and reused multiple times (but not indefinitely)

·   Easy to clean

Disadvantages:

·   Will start to smell

·   Does not allow burrowing

·   Does not absorb moisture or help in regulating humidity

Newspaper Or Paper Towels

Newspaper is the cheapest option by far. Paper towels are similar, but end up costing about the same as other types of bedding.

Paper-based substrate is easy to clean (simply replace it), but it does not allow for burrowing and is obviously very susceptible to moisture. It also doesn’t look great in the enclosure, which may or may not matter to you.

Advantages:

·   Newspaper is free

·   Easy to clean

Disadvantages:

·   Does not allow burrowing

·   Will need to be replaced if it gets too wet, so it does nothing for humidity regulation

Sand

Sand is a more aesthetically pleasing substrate for snakes than newspaper or paper towels. You can purchase it at pet shops in a wide variety of colours to fit into your decorative scheme.

Snakes can burrow in sand, but it’s bad for your snake if the sand is swallowed. Ingested sand causes impaction and grains of sand can get under the snake’s scales. This bedding also gets soiled very quickly and must be completely replaced. Weigh its visual appeal against the potential problems.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
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3 Factors of Horse Manure Management

Compost is basically a biological process that converts organic matter into fine particle humus. It involves a series of decomposition of microorganisms, digesting of organic matters. In this case, the organic matter is Horse Manure, Feeds and Beddings.  

Composting helps minimize the waste-maximise microbial activity, thus balancing the farm ecosystem, tending hygiene and ensuring horses’ health. 

On an average, every horse produces 30 lbs of feces and 2.5 gal. of urine along with spoiled bedding of about 10-12 lb is disposed every day. All up together, this accounts almost 50-65 lbs/day. 

The crisis of waste management starts with 5 important reasons that depicts the need for proper management of manure, popularly known as Horse Manure Management.

The main aim of Horse Manure Management is to keep each and every aspect of manure in check.

Originally, Horse Manure varies from horse to horse, feeds provided and type of bedding used, and is best if sorted early when manure produced is measured on weekly routine.  

These manures are the valuable and un-utilised resource that mobilise large amount of soil amendment and plant nourishing fertilizers.

Composting is one such method deployed in Horse Manure Management, and is feasible-affordable for every barn/farm owner. 

Composting enriches gardens, pastures by improving soil texture, aeration and water retention. Also, compost mix helps increase soil fertility, control erosion and balance pH. 

However, key features need to be ensured for proper composting and a good final product.

Temperature

Temperature is one of the most important indicator of how well your composting is taking place. The temperature is a fluctual result of airflow in and out of the manure pile. If the airflow is at optimal level, higher the temperature, greater the heat generated.

Try flipping your pile upside down, to distribute heat evenly throughout the massive pile. An even distribution of hot air will help suppress pathogens, fly larvae and weed seed/egg and accelerate the speed of decomposition. 

Although, a vigilant temperature needs to be maintained in order to carry out decomposition steady and swift. 

More generally, a lower temperature range of 50-110oF is required at initial stages of decomposition, later 110-160oF to break down organic matter, kill weeds, pathogens and increase microbial activity as they are hyper-thermal activists. Over a period of weeks or month, the temperature gradually drops to ambient temperature for the decomposition to settle down.

Either way, overheating immobilises many beneficial organisms or falling behind will hinder decomposition rate. 

Lower the surrounding temperature; lower will be the composting rate. At the times of Winter, it takes 3-6 month for a normal compost to happen while it only takes 1-2 months for a pile to turn compost during Summer. 

Note: Always keep piles upto 3-4 feets high and square base of 5-7 feets for building up a necessary temperature pressure within it. Get a Compost thermometer at local stores to get exact compost temperature every few days. 

Moisture content

Moisture Management is necessarily a priority task while composting. An apt moisture will bring a perfect compost mix else it leads to odor, slow decomposition, and hard to achieve high temperature. 

Either, the lack of moisture will cause composting organisms to dry out and prevent pile heat up. 

There are severe ways to make sure that your pile is having sufficient moisture or not. 

One, you can manually check by squeezing the pile of innermost layers and see through it. If it is damp enough to hold moisture or too wet that it dries out after squeezing leaving behind dry lump. Then make a precautionary moist supply. 

Two, cover your pile using a tarp sheet to prevent it from getting excessively wet in the rainy season or too dry in hot days of summer.  This will also help limit flies, weeds and sweeping nutrients off the pile.

Three, frequent watering will help balance water hold, as it evaporates due to heat and airflow. Try turning the pile either side to provide a significant amount of water to it. 

Also, you may select the right location for your pile build, making it more convenient for clean-carry out-use. A right place, which is high enough to drain excess water or pour additional water when required, thus moisture maintained. 

Pile composition

Often the compost quality depends upon Pile Composition. Pile material provides essential nutrients, and vital decomposing proportion for compost, it renders ‘Carbon for Energy and Nitrogen for Growth’. The microorganisms that are turned into compost are fueled by Carbon and Nitrogen. 

Nitrogen is mainly found in manure and Carbon is found in bedding material, their proper proportion ensures successful composting. An ideal C:N proportion is estimated between 25:1 to 30:1, where carbon is in larger numbers. 

More precisely, Carbon is primarily released by carbon-rich material like straw, wood chips, shavings, sawdust and leaves while animal-byproducts like manure and feeds are rich in Nitrogen. 

Avoid using more bedding into pile build-up, more the bedding (carbon); longer the time for compost completion. Alternatively, if you’re using Coco bedding for your horse, you can reduce carbon pile up in your compost and reduce decompose after effects. 

Note: Compost is combustible, keep the compost pile away from housing, avoid smoking near the compost pile. 

A finished compost will reduce to half its original size, smells good and be like a rich soil.