CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Coir Products How To Recycle Coco Coir Tips & Tricks
by 0

How To Recycle Coco Coir

Gardeners are increasingly using coco coir in its many forms as a soil amendment or as a growth medium on its own. It is an environmentally friendly substrate, which is one of its main selling features as an alternative to sphagnum peat.

It’s not simply that the fibres are resistant to deterioration and can persist for years. Coconuts are grown only once a year. Coco coir is self-sustaining, unlike peatlands, which take decades to create.

It’s not surprising, however, that an increasing number of gardeners want to learn more about how to utilise coco coir successfully.

Recycling The Coco Coir

One of the most beneficial aspects of utilizing coco coir is the ability to recycle old coir particles.

The first and most important step is to remove the coir medium from the growing area for drying. Spread the coir out to dry; it will most likely take weeks to totally dehydrate.

Any leftover plant materials from the previous crop should be removed. Larger roots and stems should be removed, leaving smaller roots behind that can be treated (with enzyme solution) to create a healthy supplement for future root systems.

Wash the coco with distilled water to remove any dead roots or leftover salts that may obstruct future nutrient absorption, as well as to maintain optimum EC and pH.

To remove the coco from the wash basin, use a perforated strainer or screen with an 18-inch mesh. It is preferable to wash outside, in the garden or backyard, to remove any impurities.

Setting the coco coir to be reusable entails re-buffering and enzyme treatment, as well as renewing the growth potential.

Cation exchange sites abound on the surface of Coco coir. Buffering is the process of exposing cation exchange sites to extremely concentrated calcium and magnesium solutions.

The coir material will be buffered before being used for the first time. Buffering should be done once more for re-use purposes.

Simply place the fabric pot of coco in a bucket and pour enough buffering solution to thoroughly immerse the cation exchange sites with Cal/Mag. Allow it to sit for 8 hours, covered.

Then, remove the cloth bag from the bucket and drain the buffering solution.

A specific enzyme mix is employed to break down leftover root material from the previous crop. Sensizym, for example, reconditions coco coir to provide a healthy foundation for fresh crops.

Enzymes convert the leftover roots into Carbohydrates that are sugar, which are then used by helpful bacteria in the rhizosphere for energy.

Then they make new enzymes to keep the cycle going and break down dead organic materials.

Coco that has been buffered and enzyme-treated is now ready to be reused.

The used coco coir comes in useful as a combination for grow media or as direct grow medium due to its deep aeration and improved water retention.

Coco is an excellent soil supplement for outdoor flower beds, gardens, and other areas where the soil is compacted.

Conclusion

Growing coco is not just a healthy option however recycling the coco is yet another method to make an environmentally conscientious decision for a better world.

CategoriesLifestyle Pet Turtle Caring Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding
by 0

Caring for your Pet Turtle – Box Turtle

Appearance

The box turtle has a tiny head and a hooked upper jaw, making it an intriguing pet with a distinct personality. Depending on the species or subspecies, their colour varies. Some have a lemon-yellow or olive-yellow head, and their shells range in colour from brown to olive-brown to black. Some have a large dark patch on their underside as well as black triangular markings with a brown or olive triangle behind the eye.

Their spines may be red or light brown in colour, or they may have three longitudinal stripes. By the time they reach the age of 15, box turtles should have reached the end of their growth cycle. Adults are around five inches tall and weigh 400 grammes on average. Box turtles live for 30 to 50 years on average, but some have lived up to 100 years!

Behaviour

Box turtles are not intended as pets for young children or inexperienced pet owners. This is owing to their extensive care requirements and vulnerability to stress, both of which can negatively impact a turtle’s health. You can expect to spend at least a week cleaning and maintaining their enclosure, as well as feeding them every day or two.

Box turtles prefer to remain in a consistent environment and avoid being touched by humans. They don’t usually bite, however nervousness caused by overhandling can cause them to nip someone. Furthermore, they can contain salmonella, so wash your hands carefully after handling your turtle or anything in its habitat. Most box turtles will remember their keepers once they’ve become accustomed to their surroundings, even following a person’s motions from inside their cage or asking for food.

Temperature Requirements

Daytime temperatures for common box turtles should be at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature might dip between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. To assist manage the temperature, use a basking lamp, ceramic heat emitters, or other heat sources.

For box turtles to digest the calcium in their meals, UVB illumination is required. They may get metabolic bone disease and possibly die if they don’t get it. 2 Box turtles require around 12 hours of UVB illumination each day, which may be obtained from natural sunshine or a UVB lamp. To simulate a natural day-night cycle indoors, turn off the lamp at night.

Humidity

A humidity level of approximately 60% is ideal for box turtles. This may be achieved by misting on a regular basis and utilising a substrate that maintains moisture.

Housing

A wooden vivarium is required for a typical box turtle’s enclosure. This is because wood is a great heat insulator, thus a wooden vivarium will make it simpler to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. The wooden vivarium should be well ventilated to allow for enough air flow in and out of the enclosure, as well as sealed to keep moisture and humidity out.

For a juvenile, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long, and for an adult, 1150mm (46″) long. The cage must be heated at one end and cold at the other, with enough space between them for the temperature to decrease.

Diet 

Vegetation, turtle food, live feeder insects, and flesh make up a box turtle’s diet. Dropping crickets or locusts into the pool for the live food component because they are both healthy and simple to digest. Snails and worms are common additions to the meat component of the diet.

Dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette, and bell peppers are all suitable for the vegetation component of the diet. Leafy greens should make up the majority of the vegetation. Supplements can be dusted on the salad, but we wouldn’t dust the turtle food, meat, or live food since we don’t want to contaminate the turtle’s pool water.

Handling

It is critical for both you and your turtle to maintain excellent cleanliness. So, before you start touching anything, wash your hands.

  • Before you decide to handle them, make sure they aren’t resting or feeding, and consider whether or not they are in the mating season.
  • Pick up your turtle with both hands from both sides of its shell.
  • Don’t squeeze your turtle, but make sure it doesn’t squirm out of your hands while it’s flying.
  • Picking up your turtle by the limbs or turning it fast is not a good idea.
  • Even though turtles are gentle, they do best when handled just for examinations and cleaning.

Substrate Nature

The substance that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s habitat is called substrate. It aids in humidity retention and satisfies the turtle’s need to burrow. Furthermore, it can give the enclosure a more natural appearance and feel. As a result, try to choose a substrate that closely resembles the turtle’s native habitat. Chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss are popular among gardeners. Wood chips help your turtle to burrow, so make sure you layer it at least 4 inches deep. It is not recommended to utilise soil or gravel since they might induce intestinal obstruction if consumed.The best choice of substrate is Coconut Husk. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.

Substrate Types

Coconut Husk 

One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.

Advantages:

  • Very natural look
  • Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
  • Affordable and good value

Disadvantages:

  • May attract mites and bugs over time

Wood Chips or Mulch

Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.

Advantages:

  • Excellent for Humidity
  • Absorbs Odors
  • Can be Cleaned and Reused

Disadvantages:

  • Can Carry Mold Spores
  • Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
  • Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
  • Can’t be Burrowed Into

Soil

One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.

Advantages:

  • Cheap and Natural
  • Great Moisture Retention
  • Good Structural Integrity
  • Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials

Disadvantages:

  • Will Need to be Sterilized
  • Very Dusty when Dry
  • Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
  • Strong Musty Smell

Gravel

Gravel is one of the simplest and most cheap turtle tank substrate alternatives. It comes in a variety of hues. It’s simple to use, turtle-safe, and won’t alter the pH or chemistry of your tank’s water.

Advantages:

  • Colored natural materials with a non-toxic finishing
  • Turtles can tolerate a fine texture.
  • The pH or chemistry of tank water will not be affected.

Disadvantages:

  • Rough edges may be seen on certain stones.
  • Blue substrates may not appear as natural as other colours.

Conclusion

Box turtles have extremely particular needs that necessitate a rigorous husbandry routine. After a few weeks, though, this maintenance becomes very easy for first-time owners. Many turtle owners establish a lifelong relationship with their pets since they are docile and cheap.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks Worm Bedding
by 0

Why do Vermiculturist reach out for Coco Coir bedding ?

Worm Farming is a professional cultivation of worms for the cause of converting waste such as fruits, vegetables, food and animal faeces into organic fertilizers. 

A worm, as a key asset in balancing effective and efficient fertigation of compost needs to be well grown. 

Bedding gives off a fresh environment for worms, a space to move around and shelter.  

The worm bin bedding should regard every detailing that concerns worm growth-content-productivity. 

Worm farmers/ Vermiculturist decide on choice of bedding used for their worms based on the factors below. 

  • Non-abrasive
    The worm’s skin is delicate and can be easily hurt. 
  • Light weighed
    The bedding should be light-weighted, easy to carry even when wasted. 
  • Deeply aerated
    It is crucial for any bedding to allow air-water flow and lesser thick odor. 
  • High moisture
    Must retain water for a longer duration.
  • Neutral pH
    Neither being acidic nor basic gives bedding a neutrality as a bedding substrate. 
  • Fibrous nature
    Bedding must be made of fibrous material like cellulose in order to convert into carbon molecules after breaking down from energy conversion. 

Likewise, any Worm Bedding needs to qualify the above said quality to be a supple bedding choice. Sometimes, worms do eat their bedding, so it is precarious to use biological bedding. 

As such, Coco Coir Worm Bedding is one-among-many that benefits worms in multiple ways. 

Coco Coir is a fibrous material derived from coconut husk, is an all-natural, non-toxic, non-abrasive, cost-effective product that improves worms’ inhabitants. 

Coir is light- weighted, readily fluffed, has air pockets for easy air-water flow, enables free access for worm movement. 

It is a super absorbent(50-60% moisture) with high saturation, holding water(every 1lbs brick holds 6lbs of water) and nutrients effectively, keeping the worm bin moist-damp. Thus foul odor managed. 

It is a harmless choice that is non-toxic, chemical-free, inert to chemical reaction that supasses any other worm bedding available. 

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
by 0

3 Factors of Horse Manure Management

Compost is basically a biological process that converts organic matter into fine particle humus. It involves a series of decomposition of microorganisms, digesting of organic matters. In this case, the organic matter is Horse Manure, Feeds and Beddings.  

Composting helps minimize the waste-maximise microbial activity, thus balancing the farm ecosystem, tending hygiene and ensuring horses’ health. 

On an average, every horse produces 30 lbs of feces and 2.5 gal. of urine along with spoiled bedding of about 10-12 lb is disposed every day. All up together, this accounts almost 50-65 lbs/day. 

The crisis of waste management starts with 5 important reasons that depicts the need for proper management of manure, popularly known as Horse Manure Management.

The main aim of Horse Manure Management is to keep each and every aspect of manure in check.

Originally, Horse Manure varies from horse to horse, feeds provided and type of bedding used, and is best if sorted early when manure produced is measured on weekly routine.  

These manures are the valuable and un-utilised resource that mobilise large amount of soil amendment and plant nourishing fertilizers.

Composting is one such method deployed in Horse Manure Management, and is feasible-affordable for every barn/farm owner. 

Composting enriches gardens, pastures by improving soil texture, aeration and water retention. Also, compost mix helps increase soil fertility, control erosion and balance pH. 

However, key features need to be ensured for proper composting and a good final product.

Temperature

Temperature is one of the most important indicator of how well your composting is taking place. The temperature is a fluctual result of airflow in and out of the manure pile. If the airflow is at optimal level, higher the temperature, greater the heat generated.

Try flipping your pile upside down, to distribute heat evenly throughout the massive pile. An even distribution of hot air will help suppress pathogens, fly larvae and weed seed/egg and accelerate the speed of decomposition. 

Although, a vigilant temperature needs to be maintained in order to carry out decomposition steady and swift. 

More generally, a lower temperature range of 50-110oF is required at initial stages of decomposition, later 110-160oF to break down organic matter, kill weeds, pathogens and increase microbial activity as they are hyper-thermal activists. Over a period of weeks or month, the temperature gradually drops to ambient temperature for the decomposition to settle down.

Either way, overheating immobilises many beneficial organisms or falling behind will hinder decomposition rate. 

Lower the surrounding temperature; lower will be the composting rate. At the times of Winter, it takes 3-6 month for a normal compost to happen while it only takes 1-2 months for a pile to turn compost during Summer. 

Note: Always keep piles upto 3-4 feets high and square base of 5-7 feets for building up a necessary temperature pressure within it. Get a Compost thermometer at local stores to get exact compost temperature every few days. 

Moisture content

Moisture Management is necessarily a priority task while composting. An apt moisture will bring a perfect compost mix else it leads to odor, slow decomposition, and hard to achieve high temperature. 

Either, the lack of moisture will cause composting organisms to dry out and prevent pile heat up. 

There are severe ways to make sure that your pile is having sufficient moisture or not. 

One, you can manually check by squeezing the pile of innermost layers and see through it. If it is damp enough to hold moisture or too wet that it dries out after squeezing leaving behind dry lump. Then make a precautionary moist supply. 

Two, cover your pile using a tarp sheet to prevent it from getting excessively wet in the rainy season or too dry in hot days of summer.  This will also help limit flies, weeds and sweeping nutrients off the pile.

Three, frequent watering will help balance water hold, as it evaporates due to heat and airflow. Try turning the pile either side to provide a significant amount of water to it. 

Also, you may select the right location for your pile build, making it more convenient for clean-carry out-use. A right place, which is high enough to drain excess water or pour additional water when required, thus moisture maintained. 

Pile composition

Often the compost quality depends upon Pile Composition. Pile material provides essential nutrients, and vital decomposing proportion for compost, it renders ‘Carbon for Energy and Nitrogen for Growth’. The microorganisms that are turned into compost are fueled by Carbon and Nitrogen. 

Nitrogen is mainly found in manure and Carbon is found in bedding material, their proper proportion ensures successful composting. An ideal C:N proportion is estimated between 25:1 to 30:1, where carbon is in larger numbers. 

More precisely, Carbon is primarily released by carbon-rich material like straw, wood chips, shavings, sawdust and leaves while animal-byproducts like manure and feeds are rich in Nitrogen. 

Avoid using more bedding into pile build-up, more the bedding (carbon); longer the time for compost completion. Alternatively, if you’re using Coco bedding for your horse, you can reduce carbon pile up in your compost and reduce decompose after effects. 

Note: Compost is combustible, keep the compost pile away from housing, avoid smoking near the compost pile. 

A finished compost will reduce to half its original size, smells good and be like a rich soil. 

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks
by 0

User Guide for Coco Coir Bedding

Completely natural, nontoxic and a cost effective product that can improve your pets’ habitant is Coir bedding. Coco coir reptile bedding offers a number of benefits to both reptiles and their owners. They are present in 2 major categories of coco bedding in the market right now, one is fine blend and other is course blend. Fine blends are compressed coco peat packed up for small reptiles like bearded dragons, guinea pigs, turtles, tortoises, iguanas, scorpions, hermit crabs and also used by worm breeders. Course blends are the coco husk chips for adult reptiles like snakes and a vast variety of lizards.

         They are sold either loose or in a lightweight, compressed block, they can either be used directly as dry substrate or hydrated for better use. 

Small Reptiles

Reptiles are more or less a species that tend to be in its own comforts, that’s via placing them in terrariums. Coir provides them with cushion land-fills by entertaining the pets that digs and can be used to change landscaping inside the terrarium. They are more safe, comfortable spots for nesting and borrowing. Once used in your terrarium, it gives off a pleasant, clean and clear look, and their absorbance can help to reduce odor inside.

 To hydrate it for use with your reptile, simply put coir in a clean container and add a gallon of fresh water. Allow the coir to soak in water for an hour so it can expand fully. Next, mix the coir by hand, spreading the moisture evenly and breaking apart any remaining clumps. You might also want to wring out excess water. 

Spread coir in the desired area of the tank or terrarium with a thickness of at least 1-2 inches. You’ll need approximately 1.5 pounds of coir block to spread it at the recommended thickness across the bottom of a 40-gallon tank.

When using coir with reptiles that prefer less humid climates, the dry blocks can be very difficult to break apart. Moisten the coir brick just enough to break it. Then lay the coir out to dry thoroughly before using it in your pet’s terrarium.

Store any coir you’re not using immediately for later use. Store extra coco coir reptile bedding in a sealed container to keep it fresh and prevent unwanted species to spoil them out.

Adult Reptiles

Preferentially as for adult reptile breeders’ choice, coco husk chip provides humid temperature and a husky-comfy feeling for reptiles. Because coco coir absorbs and retains water so efficiently, adding moist coco coir to the reptile’s habitat helps maintain proper humidity naturally. This is paramount for species that live in tropical climates. Since the key is to maintain health and longevity, putting much eco-friendly bedding for your reptiles’ world is the best option.    

Take a clean tub, fill in with a fresh water lesser than that of recommended in product instruction. To make the process much faster, prefer using lukewarm water for dipping. Sink the whole bedding block or as much as you wish into water. Press along the sides of the block for optimal soaking, leave it for some time. As time lapse, it eventually gets expanded.

After totally submerging on one side, flip it over for thorough soaking. Don’t over soak it, as the block may fall apart causing hassle for the handler to skim it. Also in the middle of a few inches, there remain little patches of un-soaked that you may have to dip them once more. Soaking each side requires a maximum of 3-4 minutes later put the block back in the container and let it be there for a few more minutes to expand completely. Start splitting from the corner of the block as they will be more futile than core. And let it dry for a while since it holds up an incredible amount of moisture that may lead to potential mold formation.  

Once the crumbs of chip husks are ready, start preparing to lay a new bedding. First, scoop out the previously laid mattress and clean with a vacuum cleaner. Once all clean, disinfect the entire enclosure with veterinary disinfectant such as F10 SC. In the proportion of 1:500 mix 10ml of it with water into a squirt bottle and spray along all the corners and entire space.

         Now lay down the bedding evenly over the space. Husk fills pretty deep into the tray, looking really good, handful, won’t get depleted easily. Even if bedding gets dirtier at some point, it can be taken out while the remaining maintain the same volume. Place a non-spill bowl away from the hotspot; where your pet moves around more often.

Changing of bedding is left to user convenience probably once per month, they can even recur the cost of bedding by reselling the manured mattress to compost manufacturers. This way users are ensured of win-win situations, without much of a loss. Knowing the more acceptable way of bedding rather than simply laying them down randomly is the most efficient way of improving oneself, and that’s what all seek for. Hope you all enjoyed reading it and make the best out of it from now on.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks
by 0

Coco Coir Bedding- A sustainable bedding Choice

The very existence of Coco bedding for barn livings surpasses a few decades, they are the preferential by many of early barn owners for their in-cost and easy availability and are presently in use as evergreen bedding style. In turn to voice their beneficiary facts, it’s more suitable to go as barn care-takers’ view, so let’s explore Our Coco Bedding Privileges and some of their hidden meanings.

Coconut Husk or Chip Bedding are the naturally derived products from coconut Coir; which in turn, is an extracted layer from coconut shell. Coir are the fibrous husk found beneath harder outer shells, that are the versatile, flexible and user friendly natural extract.

Advantages

With Coir as basis, we can make out much of Coco bedding usages, as to mention:

Coco beddings are the far better bedding option than the traditional Stray lay-outs or Wooden shavings and sawdust. Coco bedding stands out as EASY USE, DUST-FREE, ANTI-ALLERGEN, PEST/ ROT CONTROL, ECO-FRIENDLY, SUPER ABSORBENT, TOTALLY STATIC FREE, HIGHLY RESILIENT, LOW DECOMPOSITION RATE and available at RELIABLE COST among all existing bedding means.

By the course of Soaking, Retting and Drying, the preliminary coir husk is made acceptable for bedding making, by which dust and airborne impurities are washed out, during that time remnant microorganisms’ breaks down, the loose fiber end ensues high elastic tensile strength. This entrapped air gives rise to the pronounced springiness (resilience) of the fiber, its buoyancy in water, increases the time water takes to penetrate the fibers, significantly a supreme absorbance and less prone to wrinkle and crush because of the air-filled cavities.

It is one of the most lignin-rich natural fibers, and can withstand exposure to all kinds of weather; they possess high weather resistance due to higher amounts of lignin as a durable product. They appeal as a bio-insulator because it has high mechanical strength and it is resistant to insect and rot in aiding hygienic and healthy being and relatively waterproof and is the only natural fiber resistant to damage by salt water.

In addition, these fibers can be much more stretched beyond their elastic limit without failure due to the helical arrangement of microfibrils at 45° to the extent of 5-10 times of the weight when soaked. Because of slow breaking down of lignin, it exhibits the lowest decomposition rate ever yielding as compost fertilizer for vegetation growth (after primary bedding use).

Furthermore, if bedding is well rendered after use, can be of potential use for biogas production. And as wall insulation in tropical climatic regions to enhance energy efficiency and thermal optimal in residential dwelling. And rolled into stack for time and space saving.

Last but not the least, it’s economically feasible for all range of users.

In concern of the well-being of you and your surrounding environment, we suggest Coco bedding as a better bedding option for barn inhabitants and for safer, gentle, cheerful you.