Green iguanas can be found throughout North and South America’s tropical and subtropical regions. Green iguanas are found throughout Mexico, Central America, and South America, including Paraguay and Argentina. Green iguanas can be found across the Lesser Antilles, as well as the Greater Antilles and Southern Florida in recent years. Green iguanas are an invasive species in the Greater Antilles and southern Florida. Iguanas are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets. They prefer sunbathing or being exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and they eat a diet rich in leafy greens and vegetables.

What We Like About Green Iguanas:

Pros:

In its native nations, this species is known as “palo gallino” or “bamboo chicken.”
On top of their heads, they have a “third eye,” a photosensory organ.
Face recognition is a capability of iguanas. This means they can figure out who looks after them.
Hatchlings can stay together for up to a year. Males in the family group frequently guard females, a trait rarely seen in other reptiles.

Cons:

Large, complicated enclosures with plenty of perches and room are required for iguanas.
This lizard has unique requirements for temperature and illumination.
It can take months for them to become accustomed to human interaction.
During breeding seasons, males may become more aggressive.

Appearance

The name implies that Green Iguanas are only green, although this is not the case. They can actually come in a range of hues. Red, blue, green, yellow, white, black, and orange iguanas are available. Their price usually rises as the colour gets scarcer, such as yellow, white, and black. Color is greatly influenced by location and selective breeding. They shed in chunks on a regular basis, just like other lizards. This process can be aided by regular soaking, but when sufficiently hydrated, they should be able to remove the skin on their own.

Green iguanas can grow to be 6 to 7 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds. Male green iguanas grow to be longer than female green iguanas, which rarely grow to be more than 5 feet long. Male green iguanas also have larger spikes on their backs and massive femoral pores on the underside of their back legs as they develop. Green iguanas can live for 15 to 20 years if properly cared for.

Handling

A Green Iguana can be docile and quiet in captivity if gentle socialisation is practised from a young age. If they haven’t been socialised or are in the presence of a stranger, they may exhibit defensive behaviours including hissing, biting, clawing, tail whipping, or stiffening. As hatchlings, green iguanas might be stressed. Excessive handling can exacerbate this, making it more difficult to socialise. Avoid handling your Iguana after they’ve been moved into their new enclosure. Instead, try moving the cage’s décor about to make them used to you. Start with feeding them with your hands to get a feel for how to handle them. Once they identify you with feeding, they will begin to trust you. You can begin managing trust once it has been established. For certain species, this process can take months.

Keep the following in mind when handling your Green Iguana:

· Keep their face away from yours

· Keep their tail pointing towards the ground behind you

· Brace their weight by placing your hand between their forelimbs

Captive Environment

Adult Iguanas in captivity require a vivarium measuring at least 6′ x 5′ x 4′. If extra space is available, it is best. Most people will give a fully grown adult Iguana a room in their home. 12-14 hours each day, use full spectrum 5 percent UVB illumination. Provide a shady spot with access to a cooler spot. A heat gradient in their aquarium is preferred by all reptiles. A UVB bayonet lamp for basking at one end of the tank, with a heat mat under the same side, would be ideal. Hides, branches, reptile plants/leaves, and substrate like Coconut fiber are all excellent choices. Although personal preference is important, try to adhere to wooden hides and leaves, as these creatures’ dwell in trees, and sand for substrate and caves for hides are not appropriate for their natural habitat.

Cleaning & Misting

Since green iguanas consume a lot, they will leave a lot of waste in their cage. As a result, you should remove faeces and plant detritus with a substrate shovel on a daily basis. You should also inspect their faeces during this time. Make sure there’s a good mix of dark and light urates. An imbalance between the two, or their complete absence, can indicate digestive problems. You should clean your Iguana’s cage and replace the substrate every four weeks. If you’re using live plants, make sure to carefully remove them while preserving the root structure. Soap and water should be used to scrub all surfaces. Any removable décor should be soaked in a 10 percent bleach solution to destroy microorganisms.

Lighting & temperatures

Green iguanas are native to the tropics. You’ll want to provide them with a basking area as well as a chilly place where they can adjust their body temperature. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. Your iguana will be able to move back and forth between the different temperatures as needed. A 100–115-degree basking space should be supplied. The temperature in the rest of the enclosure can be in the 80–85-degree range. Temperatures can dip to as low as 75 degrees at night. Use a decent temperature gauge, such as a digital thermometer or a thermometer. For a baby iguana, one basking bulb is sufficient, but for an adult iguana, at least two bulbs should be placed next to each other to provide a bigger space for your iggy to heat up. Warming a large-bodied iguana takes a lot of energy. It’s great if it’s a little more spread out and not too hot in one spot.

Iguanas require UVB lighting in addition to heat to help them absorb calcium and produce vitamin D3. We must offer UVB light in the form of a special fluorescent bulb designed to create UVB rays because they do not receive natural sunlight in our homes. Heat rocks should not be used. Green iguanas have evolved a particular adaptation for basking, which allows them to absorb heat from above. They can get severely burned on a heat rock if they don’t notice it’s too hot until it’s too late.

Humidity and Water Requirements

Iguanas demand moderate to high humidity levels. Every other day, mist the vivarium. Additionally, provide a large, relatively deep-water dish for drinking and bathing. Place the water dish over half of the basking area to allow the heat to produce water vapour, which will increase humidity. As water stimulates the bowls of all reptiles, this will need to be cleaned out thoroughly every day. Also, check the water levels every time you are near your tank to make sure it hasn’t all evaporated. Also, make sure you use just lukewarm water. They might be shocked and possibly die if they come into contact with ice cold water.

Green Iguana Food

Raw natural foods purchased in a supermarket and professionally prepared “Iguana Food” can readily meet the dietary needs of green iguanas. Collard greens, turnip greens, dandelions, yellow squash, entire green beans, and other vegetables are great for your green iguana. We also give fruit on a weekly basis. Diarrhea can occur if a green iguana’s diet is high in fruit.

Small green iguanas require slightly different food preparation than adult green iguanas. When chopping raw veggies, make sure each piece is the right size for the green iguana to simply pick up and consume whole. Keep in mind that green iguanas can’t chew their food and must swallow it whole.

Green Iguana Substrate

A solid substrate must be used to avoid the possibility of your Green Iguana eating the substrate. Particulate substrates are not advised at all because they can create health issues for your Green Iguana if swallowed mistakenly. Coconut fiber, newspaper are recommended.

Coconut fiber

For most iguana owners, the coconut fiber-based substrate is a suitable option. Coconut is one of the safest substrate materials available. It clumps up around droppings and makes cleaning up a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut also has antibacterial effects. It will catch and even eliminate microorganisms from faeces. When the iguanas are young and in their large pen, coconut is a good substrate to utilise. It was made without the use of any chemicals, and it is also harmless for the environment.

Pros:

• Very natural look

• Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

• Affordable and good value

Cons:

• May attract mites and bugs over time

Newspaper

Another viable substrate choice is newspaper. Using newspapers, which are often easily available in the home, is a simple method. Three or four layers of newspaper should be used to cover the entire floor area. Daily replacement of newspaper substrates is recommended. Any spills should be cleaned up as soon as possible. Newspapers are a relatively cost-effective solution, despite their unappealing appearance.

Pros:

• Easy to replace

• Affordable

Cons:

• Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Artificial Grass Patch

For the large region that needs to be covered with iguanas, an artificial grass patch works nicely. It is more expensive than the other products, but the benefits may be worth it to you. Iguanas can safely eat the synthetic material because it is lead-free and non-toxic even when wet. It has a natural-looking pattern that is full and comfortable to the touch. You don’t have to do anything to get it up and running. Simply place it where you want it and plonk it down. The colour won’t leak when exposed to sunshine or the UVB lights your iguana need because it’s UV resistant. The grass has drainage pores in it, making it resistant to mould caused by standing water. This also makes cleanup a breeze. This grass will last for years if no severe harm occurs.

Pros:

• Easy to use and clean

• Soft, natural feel

• Durable product to last years

• Safe and resistant to mold

Cons:

• High price

Fun facts about the green iguana

· If they are trapped, they can detach their tails and grow a new one. That’s ingenious!

· They have superb eyesight, which allows them to see prey or detect danger from afar.

· Despite being classified as omnivores, they prefer a herbivorous diet.· Green iguanas have razor-sharp teeth that can rip leaves from trees and puncture human skin.

Lizards Care and Habitat Pet caring and Habitat Pets Bedding

August 14, 2021September 26, 2021 by user 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Bearded Dragon

The Bearded Dragon is widely regarded as one of the best lizard pets of all time. Bearded dragon owners like watching their lizards, whether during a feeding frenzy when chasing insects or simply socialising with one another, because they are noted for being vigilant, hardy, and tame. Bearded dragons have unique behaviours, such as “arm waving,” in which a female or male lifts one of their front legs in the air and “waves” it as a submissive gesture. The lizard’s prickly “beard,” from which it gets its common name, can also be stretched, though tame captives rarely do so; dragons often do so when disturbed.

Behaviour

Bearded Dragons come in a wide range of colours. The dragon’s ‘beard’ is the skin in the throat region that can flare out when it feels threatened or territorial. The spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body give the body a flattened appearance. The Bearded Dragon’s head is wedge-shaped, and its tail is almost as long as its body. Males and females are difficult to discern among hatchlings and juveniles. Hatchlings are around 4 inches long, and huge adults can grow to be nearly 2 feet long. Sexual differences become more obvious as they get older. Males have larger heads and darker beards than females. Males are distinguished from females by their bigger femoral pores. The average captivity lifespan is six to ten years, while some specimens have been reported to live twice as long.

Humidity, Heating & Lighting

Ectotherms are bearded dragons. To feel comfortable, they’ll need both a consistent source of heat and a cooled environment. A thermometer and a hygrometer (a device that monitors humidity) should be placed at each end of the dragon’s housing. When the humidity level is between 20% and 30%, your bearded dragon will thrive. A little misting once a day is sufficient if the humidity is less than 20%. To allow the basking location to be the habitat’s warmest spot during the day (about 100 F or 38 C) while simultaneously giving suitable levels of ultraviolet light, make sure your heat source is aimed on the same spot as your UVB bulb. The cool end should be around 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 29 C). At night, turn off the lights. To keep the temperature between 68- and 74-degrees Fahrenheit, use a ceramic heat emitter or a night heat lamp (20 to 23 C). Bearded dragons, like you, are active during the day and sleep at night. They prefer to spend roughly 12 hours every day sunbathing under a UVA/UVB light, unlike you.

What do bearded dragons eat?

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, as they eat both animal and plant matter. They aren’t choosy eaters and eat with pleasure. Crickets and mealworms should be given a vitamin/mineral supplement as well as calcium. Before giving the insects to your lizards, dust them by placing them in a plastic bag with some of the powder and shaking the bag to lightly coat the insects.

Offer finely chopped veggies to bearded dragons such as romaine lettuce, zucchini, carrots, etc.), greens (collard, mustard, dandelion, etc. and fruit like kiwi, banana, mango, etc. Appropriate number of powders should be sprinkled on these foods and healthy, vitamin-rich items should be used. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it is not nutritious. Commercially accessible meals from major reptile product manufacturers can also be given. These foods are specially created for bearded dragons and can be a great addition to your bearded dragon’s daily diet of fresh foods. Pinky mice are also appropriate for bearded dragons, and a variety of nutritionally balanced manufactured diets are available at pet stores. If you’re keeping your dragons on sand, serve food in a shallow dish rather than putting it on the substrate.

Water for bearded dragon

Use a water spray bottle to mist bearded dragons. They’ll lick water droplets off cage walls, rocks, and other surfaces, as well as themselves. Don’t go overboard; you don’t want their enclosure to grow too damp and humid. Provide water in a large enough dish for them to soak in. Be sure to keep this dish and the water in it clean.

How can I keep my bearded dragon healthy?

Bearded dragons are more gentle than other lizard species and will accept handling better. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, such as adults who have lived their whole lives in captivity.

For the first three or four days, avoid handling your new reptile. They require some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Aside from yearly annual physical exams, if you notice any of the symptoms in your reptile, it may be time to see a veterinarian like more hiding time than usual, less eating and drinking, possibly even weight loss, swollen joints, discoloured and shedding skin, abnormalities with the eyes, nose, or mouth, runny or abnormal droppings for more than two days, lack of droppings for extended periods of time.

All animals have the ability to spread infectious viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases to humans. Before and after contact with any pet or its habitat, thoroughly wash your hands with warm, soapy water. After coming into contact with a pet, its habitat, or aquarium water, adults should help children wash their hands.

Interesting facts about Bearded Dragons

· Their name comes from their “beard” of scales around the neck.

· They wave to acknowledge each other.

· They have plenty of behaviours unique to their species.

· They love to sunbathe.

· They can run up to 9 miles per hour.

· They love going on walks on a leash.

· They enjoy swimming.

· They can regrow their teeth.

· They can sleep standing upright.

· They can run on two legs.

· They can change their skin color.

· They make a hissing noise when defending territory.

· They produce venom.

· Bearded dragons don’t urinate liquid.

Substrate for Bearded Dragons

A high-quality substrate is critical for your bearded dragon’s health and comfort. The medium that makes up the flooring in an enclosure is referred to as the substrate. Create a more comfortable and natural environment for the bearded dragon by using a substrate material. There are many various types of substrates to choose from, some of which are superior to others.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Coconut husks for little one and chips for larger reptiles are available. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. You can use it straight away without hydrating the compacted chip blocks for high-humidity reptile, or you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces, and scatter it around the container for low-humid seeking reptile. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.

Calcium sand and Playground sand

Calcium sand and playground sand are two of the most common substrates for bearded dragons. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages bearded dragons’ natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.

Another alternative is to use playground sand, which is relatively affordable and easy to get around. These may easily be found in pet stores. To be safe, bake playground sand in the oven at 350°F for around 15 minutes to eliminate any potentially harmful germs or bacteria. Replace sand-based substrates once a month, and clean up any spills immediately.

Cage Carpet

Cage Carpet developed exclusively for reptile terrariums. It looks like the green or brown indoor/outdoor carpet that was once used to imitate grass. This is a low-cost, low-maintenance alternative that is very effective. It’s simple to clean, replace, and maintain, as well as being reasonably priced. It’s not the most appealing substrate, but it’s one of the most secure. Because there are no small loose particles for the bearded dragon to swallow, there is very minimal chance of impaction when using this substrate.

Cage carpet is simple to clean and remove. At least once a week, remove the carpet and clean it with warm water and a light soap. Before returning the carpet to the terrarium, make sure it has been fully rinsed and dried. Any leftover food or waste should be cleaned as quickly as possible. The carpet should be replaced every three months or as needed.

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy approach is to use newspapers, which is generally readily available in the home. Cover the entire floor area with three or four layers of newspaper. Newspaper substrates should be replaced on a daily basis. Clean up any spills right away or as quickly as possible. While not particularly appealing, newspapers are a very cost-effective option.

Lizards Care and Habitat Pets Bedding Reptile Bedding

August 4, 2021August 4, 2021 by user 0

Caring for your Pet Lizard – Leopard Gecko

New to reptile care! need help choosing your first lizard! Each lizard is unique in itself and in most cases has specific husbandry requirements. Some lizards are social and enjoyable, while others are shy and tense in human presence. Lizards will live a longer time, it is very important to choose a lizard that suits your lifestyle and husbandry capabilities.

Facts about lizards

Lizards are popular pets. They take up very little space and are easy to take care of. The natural habitat of lizards extends from tropical rainforests and jungles to arid and arid regions of the world. Many factors affect the health of lizards, such as heat, light, stress, nutrition and moisture. Therefore, it is very important to understand where and how lizards exist in nature. Please consult your pet dealer for the specific environmental requirements of your lizard.

Which lizards are good pets?

Many of the lizards on our list are good choices for most people, but not for all. When choosing a lizard, be sure to choose a species that suits your lifestyle, husbandry and handling skills.

Crested- Leopard Geckos and Gargoyles are perfect for those who don’t want to set-up aquarium like structures and want a basic environment.
Bearded Dragon, Leopard Gecko, Crested Gecko, and Blue Tongue Skink are great choices for lovers who wish to tame their pets.
If you are looking for small lizards, Gold-Dust Day Gecko, Green Anole, Crested Gecko and Long-tailed Gecko are good choices. Tegu, Water Dragons, Monitor Lizards, Iguanas and Caiman lizards (Dracaena) are large reptiles.
If you are uncomfortable with feeding pets live food, Uromastyx and Iguanas are almost pure herbivores.
Chameleons and Iguanas are great ways to show off pets and are not interested in handling them.
If there is no particular space to raise pets, then choose not Iguana nor the Green Anole which does allow you to pet them.
Although all the lizards on this list are excellent first pets, they all need to be sorted out carefully.
Bearded dragons are one of the best choices for beginners to raise reptiles because of their friendly nature and their love toward handling.

Lizards can make exciting pets, but there are so many types that it is difficult to pick the right lizard for you. Some of the most popular lizards, such as Iguanas are not suitable for most pet owners. Choosing the right lizard will help you and your pet be happy for years to come.

Why choose LEOPARD GECKOS?

Leopard gecko is a very unique reptile, known for its amazing leopard appearance and huge, fat-laden tail. These small lizards will fit in your hand even when they grow up. They are some of the most popular lizard pets and good lizards for beginners. They make up good pets because they are gentle, easy to care for, and have many interesting colors and patterns. The gecko is definitely a cool lizard.

Gecko is a cute, docile and friendly lizard with many interesting behaviors and pleasant sounds. They adapt to handling very quickly and are easy to maintain for every beginner.

Significance

These are shy lizards with amazing predation and invasion abilities and camouflage themselves with leopard prints in dry desert rocks or high meadows. Because of their fat storing tails, these species can hide for a longer time, which can prevent them till their threat has been eliminated. They also shed more frequently than most lizards to prevent predators from smelling them. After all, the leopard gecko makes a very loud sound. It makes noises when it mates, defends itself, or when awakened by screaming, barking, or hissing.

Behavior

A common yellow or lilac leopard gecko with brown or black spots, is oftenly called a Spotted Cat. Some of the patterns include high yellow, yellow, patternless, albino, eclipse, giant, snow poppy, enigma, hypo, carrot tail, carrot head etc,. Leopard geckos have short claws and fatty tail, which peel off when lizards feel threatened. Under captivity, this gecko can live for 15-20 years.

Fun Facts

Almost all gecko sounds range from a soft squeak to the deafening hiss of African whistling gecko.
Many geckos do not have eyelids, but leopard geckos are not only translucent, but also movable, so they can blink and close their eyes while sleeping.
Like many lizards, the leopard gecko has a tail that can be easily broken when a predator catches it. This allows the gecko to escape when under attack. Unfortunately, it leaves a valuable source of food in. Tail used to store fat for lean periods.
They live a strict nocturnal lifestyle, away from the heat of the day, looking for food through holes and cracks at night.

How do you groom your pet lizard?

1 Habitat Maintenance

Clean and disinfect the habitat thoroughly at least once a week: place the gecko in a safe habitat; wipe the water tank and furnish with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water and remove all traces of bleach odor. Dry your water tank and furnish completely and add a clean substrate.

2 Care and Hygiene

Leopard geckos sheds regularly; ensure that the humidity in the habitat is high enough to allow adequate separation. To make it easier to shed off, provide a shed box, a leather case with peat moss, to help the shedding process.

3 Diet and Feeding schedule

Leopard Gecko’s balanced diet includes insects, crickets, mealworms, and wax worms, also using intestinal crickets. (freshly fed)

Points to consider when feeding leopard geckos:

· Always provide fresh, clean and chlorine-free water.

· Feed every day.

· Sprinkle daily calcium supplements and multivitamin supplements on food once or twice a week.

4 Housing and Substrate

A sufficiently large area with safe coverage; it is recommended to use a 10-20 gallon water tank for the leopard gecko. Provide multiple hiding locations with non-toxic plants, branches, trunks and cork. Keep the humidity below 50%.

Temperature gradient of 95°F for very hot/sunbathing and 78-88°F at extremely cold. 10 to 12 hours of light are needed every day; because leopard geckos are nocturnal, they do not need ultraviolet light. Incandescent lamps can be used for sunbathing; you can use ceramic heaters or night lights at any time. Do not put two or more male geckos together or house different kinds of reptiles together.

The substrate must be absorbent and easy to clean and should not cause choking hazard or toxicity to your pet even if accidentally swallowed. The substrate should not be too abrasive to reduce the risk of pet injuries, and it should also be made of materials that will not retain or absorb too much moisture for desert species.

Coconut Husk

Coconut Husk or Coco Chip is one of the safest, organic and most popular choices for reptile bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and enriched fibrous material. It comes in two versions: Coconut Husk for smaller lizards and Coco Chips for larger lizards. Its absorption can block unpleasant odors, retain moisture for a longer time and maintain a humid temperature. You can use it as needed. Wet the blocks, crush the pieces and put them in a container. Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable.

Carpet Liner

Carpet Liner is a sleek look and easy to clean substrate, making it an ideal habitat for your leopard gecko. Carpet Liner should be cleaned spotless and disinfected with reptile-specific cleaning solution once in a week. Maintain a healthy home for your pet.

Calci Sand

For Leopard Gecko, calcium sand helps imitate the natural desert environment and has many beneficial benefits, such as prompting natural burial behavior. Calcium sand is not only non-toxic, but also rich in calcium and vitamins. A small amount of oral administration can provide great health benefits, but it should not replace the intake of dietary supplements. You can scoop the waste along the sand all at once.

General health Issue

Gastro-Intestinal Diseases:
Loose stools, crusty or stains in ventilated areas, and loss of appetite due to bacterial or parasitic infections. Consult your veterinarian.

Metabolic Bone/Vitamin Deficiency:
Insufficient calcium absorption due to insufficient UV-B light or insufficient calcium/vitamin D supplementation. If left untreated, this can lead to conditions characterized by deformities and weak bones. Limb swelling and lethargy. Please consult your veterinarian to make sure you have enough UVB and enough calcium/vitamin supplements.

Respiratory Diseases:
Shortness of breath and mucus in the nose and mouth. This may be caused by the environment being too cold or too humid. Please consult your veterinarian to ensure that your environment is at the right temperature.

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding Snake Habitat

July 31, 2021July 31, 2021 by user 0

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Garter Snake

Garter snakes have adapted to many different environments in the wild including scrubland and forests and they are usually found near water. Garter snakes are commonly available as captive bred but they are also wild collected. It is strongly advised that you only obtain captive bred or rescue animals. These snakes are now available in many captive bred colour morphs.

Behaviour

Garter snakes are small colubrid snakes that are not constrictors. They do not pose any dangers to children other than salmonella, which can be carried by any reptile. They are active during the day so they have excellent eyesight which they use along with their keen sense of smell to find and capture prey. They make great display pets because they are very alert and active. In the wild they are often found around water; streams, rivers, lakes and marshes.

Females are around 3ft long depending on species and males are usually 2ft or less in length. They are a fairly slim bodied snake, males more so than females. Babies are very small, average size at birth is 6-8 inches. The average lifespan in the wild may only be 4-5 years however they can live twice as long in captivity. Captives reaching over 10 years old have been documented when reptile health and wellness is prioritized along with proper snake supplies, reptile cleaning supplies, and snake habitat products.

Temperature

Naturally, garter snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 85of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Garter snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.

At night, all of the lights should go off and the enclosure should be completely dark. This should make sure that the snake has a clear day and night cycle.

During the day your temperatures will be much too warm and the heat mats thermostat should keep it off automatically. The heat mat will only begin to heat once the temperatures have dropped below 75of at night time.

Though the thermostats we sell are very reliable it is always best practice to monitor your temperatures with a thermometer. A 5of variance on the basking spot is nothing to worry about as long as your cool side is still cool. A simple dial thermometer on each side should be sufficient but digital probe thermometers are much more accurate.

Lighting

Garter snakes do not require UVB to use the calcium in their diet like other reptiles but it is still a beneficial addition to the enclosure. The snake would naturally be exposed to UV from sunlight in the wild and as we are trying to emulate nature in our enclosures, we recommend providing some UVB. A 5% T8 UVB tube, 2-5% T5 UVB tube or more powerful but smaller unit should be sufficient. The UV tube should be mounted to the ceiling at the back of the enclosure to provide a light gradient running parallel to the temperature gradient. There will be times when the snake will want less or no UVB so partial and full hiding spots should be placed all along the width of the enclosure.

Humidity

The correct humidity is essential to keep your snake’s respiratory system healthy and for normal skin shedding. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity inside the vivarium, which should be around 50 to 60%. If it is too low, you can spray it with clean water. If it is too high, the vivarium will need more ventilation.

Cleaning

Garter snakes, as with most pets, require a clean environment to thrive. We recommend a spot clean as often as possible (every day) and a full clean every 4 weeks or so. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It may still be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

When cleaning the enclosure you should remove your animal, all decorations and all of the bedding. Once the enclosure is clear you can spray it all over with a reptile friendly disinfectant. These usually work very quickly and only need to be left for around 30 seconds, instructions can normally be found on the disinfectants packaging. Once the disinfectant has done its work it can be wiped away from the surfaces with a paper towel. In some cases, you might want to repeat this process a second time to ensure that the enclosure is thoroughly cleaned.

Your decorations can be cleaned in a similar method, simply spray them down with the disinfectant and rinse thoroughly with water before drying them off and putting them back into the enclosure. We recommend this process is done during the day time to make sure that the snake will be going back to a warm vivarium for at least an hour before the basking lamps are turned off for the night.

Handling

Garter snakes are not keen on being held for long periods. However, they may allow you to hold them for short periods, after they have settled in. Never grab your snake as this could stress it and may lead to struggling, biting or musking – when a strong smell is released from the snake – normal predator avoidance behaviours. The snake can be gently scooped up supporting the whole animal. The snake should not be taken out for so long that its core temperature drops. Five to ten minutes is a safe period, depending on the temperature outside of the vivarium.

Diet

Many keepers feed adults a frozen thawed rodent only diet, which is fine because this provides complete nutrition. However in the wild garters would eat a more varied live reptile food diet consisting of worms, amphibians, fish, and rodents, so it is a good idea to provide some variety in captivity. I prefer to feed both night crawlers and rodents, which can be found in pet stores or online reptile shops. Babies are easy to start on small cut up pieces of night crawlers. Most feeder fish contain an enzyme called thiaminase, which breaks down thiamine (vitamin B1). Long term exclusive feeding of these fish should be avoided, because doing so can lead to a potentially fatal vitamin deficiency. Garters do not eat crickets, mealworms or other insects.

A water dish large enough for the snake to completely submerge in is ideal. Garters love water and will often soak, especially before shedding. A water area large enough for swimming is ideal but not necessary. Garters will sometimes defecate in water, so it is important to check and change frequently. I prefer to use 16 ounce disposable deli cups, which are replaced at least once a week. This is the bare minimum size for adults.

Substrate

There are many substrates that will work for garter snakes. Popular choices are Aspen shavings, newspaper pellets or pulp crumbles, Cypress and Coco Husk like products. Substrates to avoid are sand, clay cat litter, cedar, pine or other aromatic wood products, or dirt from outside. Newspaper or paper towels can be used for babies but are not good choices for adults. Due to garter’s high metabolism, a deeper more absorbent substrate is preferable. Also, garters like to burrow, so it is good to provide at least an inch or two of substrate. I have used newspaper pellets or pulp, aspen, and wood pellets with good results.

Conclusion

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding Snake Habitat

July 31, 2021July 31, 2021 by user 0

A Complete Overlook on Captive Snakes Caring

Snakes make excellent pets. They are simple to maintain, clean, quiet and they do not require frequent engagement. They also need very little specialised equipment for optimum care and handling. It’s crucial to realise that snake care is really not something that can be generalised. Certain species require particular handling techniques, so do your study on the species to learn more about how to care for your pet snake properly.

It’s critical to provide your snake with the best possible care by simulating its natural surroundings as nearly as possible. Investigate your snake’s native environment, such as fields, marshes, meadows, tropical woods, or deserts.

Temperature and Lighting

Snakes are cold-blooded and require a source of heat to maintain their body temperature and maintain good health. There should be a warm and a cool side to your snake’s terrarium. The majority of snakes demand a consistent temperature of 75°F to 85°F. For most of the pet snakes, keep the warm side at 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool side at 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. This gradient can be maintained by under-tank heating or overhead heat bulbs. The entire terrarium should be 65-70°F at night. Tropical species require slightly greater temperatures in the basking area, up to 90°F, as well as increased humidity 75-90 %.

For maintaining this temperature, you can provide a heat bulb to top of the cage or heat tape at the bottom of the cage. An under-aquarium heating pad and an incandescent reptile light fixture with a spot light or ceramic heater can be strategically placed to achieve this. Your snake can control his own microclimate by locating the hiding spot in a cooler corner.

Housing

Aquariums with a lockable screen cover make excellent snake housing. They will keep cold-blooded animals warm while also allowing for optimal visibility and proper ventilation. Snakes use both vertical and horizontal surfaces, so there should be enough room for them to stretch out and move about freely within their enclosure. Unless you want to keep an arboreal species such as a rough green snake, a ribbon snake, or a tree boa that require height for climbing, an aquarium that is longer and deeper than it is tall is optimal. Snakes may strike or rub against the wire on the side walls of an enclosure, inflicting harm to the snake’s face or skin. Security-oriented screen covers are a must-have. Make sure the enclosure has a good locking system. Snakes can climb over glass walls, push open covers, and squeeze through small spaces, making them excellent escape artists.

Diet and Nutrition

Snakes are all carnivorous. They eat mice, rats, chicks, fish, eggs, red worms, and crickets in captivity. Newborn snakes are preferring pinky mice. Water snakes and garters are fed nightcrawlers and minnows. Green, decay, and ringneck snakes are fed live crickets, earthworms, insects, and caterpillars. Many desert species only eat lizards, while hognose snakes only eat toads. Bird eggs, as well as birds themselves, are common foods for other species. Most snake species that consume amphibians, reptiles, or birds in their natural habitat can be trained to eat rodents. The type of diet and frequency of feeding will vary depending on the snake’s species, age, and season. Snakes should be fed once per 1 to 2 weeks in most cases. Although your snake’s jaw can expand to swallow a rodent larger than its head, it is a good rule of thumb to never feed a prey item that is substantially thicker than the snake’s thickest point. Feed frozen rats instead of live rodents whenever feasible. Live rodents, which may bite in self-defense and damage your snake, are safer and healthier to feed. Furthermore, the freezing process will have killed most internal or external parasites that the prey item may have carried. Thaw the rodent until it is slightly warmer than room temperature before feeding it to your snake. Do not allow the rodent to thaw in locations where food is prepared.

Provide a large enough water dish for the snake to soak in. This will provide lots of water for your pet, as well as serve to raise ambient humidity and aid in shedding. A water dechlorinate should be used with all tap water. Once a day, change the water.

Handling and Safety

Small snakes are generally very easy to handle. When handling your pet, avoid being overly harsh or making rapid movements to be on the safe side. You should study the behaviour of your snakes. Some snakes are active in nature who will benefit from time spent outside the vivarium exercising. Approximately 10-15 minutes 3-4 times a week is a suitable amount of time for handling these kinds of species, but this may vary depending on the particular snake. Some snakes are shy, they don’t like being handled. Give a few weeks to settle a new snake into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before handling it. You can start handling your snake after 3-4 successful meals. Lift it up gently but with confidence or else it may get scared and bite you. Snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Handle young snakes just once or twice a week. Wait a few days after feeding your snake before handing it over; this will allow the snake to digest its prey.

When holding your snake make sure that you are providing full support for the whole body of the snake. Once they understand that you are not hurting them, they often seem to enjoy being handled. To make them comfortable, give them time to get to know you. Try to avoid touching the top of the head. It will cause irritation to your snake. Give your snake time to settle into its enclosure before handling.

Before and after handling your Corn snakes, it is important to wash your hands with anti-bacterial wash.

Cleaning

Good cleaning, care, and handling will assist to keep your pets healthy and limit the risk of your snake infecting humans. Proper care to keep your pet healthy, in addition to giving the correct feed, temperature, and humidity. Clean the enclosure on a daily basis and remove any droppings. Cleaning the branches and pebbles, changing the substrate, removing any large clumps, and wiping down the glass should all be done on a weekly basis.

Snakes should be handled with caution and under the supervision of an adult. A snake may be startled by sudden movements, forcing it to attack defensively, resulting in significant harm. After touching your snake, you should always wash your hands with antibacterial soap. Cleaning is very essential to keep your snake healthy.

Common health issues

· Mites: Check your snake for mites on a regular basis. Mites might cause skin irritation for your pet snake.

· Dysecdysis: Also known as abnormal shedding, dysecdysis is often caused by inadequate humidity levels. If you see that your snake is experiencing an incomplete shed, have the snake bathe in a large container of water and increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

· Respiratory Infection: Respiratory infections are caused by viral or bacterial infections. Common causes of respiratory infections include improper temperature, ventilation, or excess humidity.

Enclosure

Snakes often thrive in smaller habitats. Larger dwellings may cause your pet snake to become agitated. In a 20-gallon tank, most snakes will be content. To minimise territorial disputes, difficult feeding, and even cannibalism among some snake breeds, several snakes should be maintained separately. To keep your snake from fleeing, make sure your terrarium has a secure lid.

Substrate

The type of bedding that will line your snake’s habitat is known as a substrate. A suitable substrate will maintain moisture efficiently, will not emit foul odours from uric acid absorption, and will not be easily swallowed or inhaled by your pet snake. Burrowing and non-burrowing snakes will benefit from cypress mulch, aspen shavings, and coconut fibre. They maintain humidity and manage odour inside the snake’s cage while posing no risk of impaction (constipation). Newspaper and paper towels are free solutions, but they don’t have a high moisture tolerance and aren’t suited for burrowing snakes.

Not all forms of bedding are suitable for snakes kept in captivity. Sand, is easily absorbed by your snake, causing rigid stools and constipation. Any substrate containing cedar or pine should be avoided since it emits oils that are detrimental to snakes and reptiles in general.

Conclusion

Snakes make excellent pets for experienced owners. In order to thrive, they require the right tank and temperature conditions. Proper care must be taken to keep your snake healthy. A pet snake can be the ideal pet for you if you have the necessary experience, dedication, and education.

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

July 28, 2021July 28, 2021 by user 0

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Grey Banded Kingsnake

The gray-banded kingsnake (Lampropeltis alterna) is an excellent pet snake. It does not grow to a huge size, is a good eater on easily obtained food items, and has lovely colours. Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in west Texas, New Mexico, and northern Mexico in the wild. The gray-banded kingsnake is one of the most sought-after snakes in the world because of its extreme diversity.

Behaviour
Temperature Requirements
Humidity
Lighting
Handling
Cleaning
Diet
Potential Health Issue
Substrate Nature
Substrate Type
Conclusion

Behaviour

Gray-banded kingsnakes can be found in a variety of habitats. These snakes are known for being simple to tame and loyal. They’re also simple to teach, particularly when it comes to feeding times and routines.

Gray-banded kingsnakes are available in a wide range of hues, from sparkling light grey and orange to darker variants. Gray-banded kingsnakes range in size from hatchlings of 10 inches to adults of more than 3 feet. They have a 15-year lifespan. Gray-banded kingsnakes can live up to thirty years if you give them the greatest possible care.

Temperature Requirements

During the day, grey-banded king snakes require temperatures between 84-90 degrees. Temperatures should be between 68 and 75 degrees at night. If you keep your snake too cool, it will regurgitate, so keep the daytime temperatures consistent. If your snake is continually moving in its enclosure and finds it difficult to settle, adjust the temperature on both ends gradually. Using temperatures to help your snake’s health is another option. During the winter, lower the temperature even further. This will provide the snake with a climate that is comparable to that of its natural habitat.

Humidity

Humidity should be kept low to avoid respiratory issues. Gray Banded King Snakes require around 60% humidity. Place a damp plastic box with damp paper towels inside to keep humidity. The cover should have a hole the same size as your pet’s, and it will also help to increase humidity in the living space. You also can provide a water bowl or small dish.

Lighting

When it comes to lighting, kingsnakes don’t normally rely on it, and they don’t usually engage in basking behaviours. Extra heat sources, such as hot lights or specialised bulbs, are not necessary. If you want then you can install UVB lighting as a supplementary heat source.

Handling

Gray-banded kingsnakes normally don’t mind being handled gently. If your snake has a strong feeding reaction, gently nudge it with an inert object before reaching into its enclosure to avoid it from mistaking your hand for food (such as forceps). This informs the snake that it is not time to eat.

Allow a gray-banded kingsnake to slither around in your palms without being constrained. Don’t hold on to it too closely. You can get a slight nip if you try to detain the snake too violently, or the snake may exude musk to show its dissatisfaction. So that your snake does not feel intimidated, always support it with both hands.

Cleaning

As needed, the terrarium should be cleaned. Several times a week, any faeces should be wiped out. Once a month, the bedding should be fully replaced, and fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A suitable reptile cage cleaner can be used to clean the inside of the terrarium. King snakes can be handled on a daily basis, but wash your hands thoroughly before and after touching them.

Diet

Gray-banded kingsnakes prefer to eat mice and other common reptile diets. However, a few lizards might be helpful to get them started. Then introduce them to mice and rats, which will be their sole source of nutrition for the rest of their lives. Feed the hatchlings a pink mouse that isn’t dressed. Adult gray-banded kingsnakes eat small adult mice, while juvenile gray-banded kingsnakes eat fuzzy baby mice.

Potential Health Issue

Mites

Mites are small black parasites that grow on and feed on the blood of your King Snake. Mites are generally seen around the eyes, mouth, and under the scales of a King Snake that has caught them. During a mite infection, your snake will appear lethargic and may refuse to eat. If you find mites on your King snake, bathe it in warm water immediately and thoroughly sanitise the tank and contents.

Respiratory Infections

R.Is is a bacterial infection induced by poor cage conditions, low temperatures, or excessive humidity, but it can also be spread from snake to snake. Excess saliva and nasal discharge can make king snakes sound wheezy. Very mild R.Is may go away themselves If the snake’s living conditions are improved, it may go away on its own, but major illnesses should be treated by a veterinarian right enough to avoid Mouth Rot or even death.

Regurgitation

Regurgitation can be a sign of a variety of digestive issues, illnesses, and stress. If a King Snake is handled too soon after a feeding or if it is fed an item that is too large for it, it may regurgitate its food. In this situation, you should give the snake a week to settle down before feeding it again. If your King Snake regurgitates its food frequently, loses a lot of weight, or shows any other indicators that concern you, seek medical help as soon as possible.

Substrate Nature

You can utilise shavings, paper towels, and newspapers as terrarium substrates. It is necessary to spot-clean the substrates at least twice a week and to change the full set of substrates every two months to preserve cleanliness. Allowing dirty substrates to remain in the enclosure for an extended period of time will lead to the growth of hazardous germs, which can cause snake illnesses or even death. No Cedar or Redwood Shavings should be used in predator or prey enclosures since they are poisonous to all animals. Cedar and redwood should not be utilised in the construction of animal housing, nor in any furniture or panelling in a vivarium that houses animals.

To clean the terrarium, combine 95 percent water, 5% bleach, and a few drops of liquid soap. This solution must be used to thoroughly clean the cage before installing the new substrates. Clean the snake’s water bowl and hiding spot with this solution as well. Before returning everything to the cave, make sure it is completely dry.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

Coconut husk is a light, easy-to-clean, and appealing material. It is more expensive than other substrates. It absorbs odours and binds them to the substrate. It’s a non-toxic, dust-free substrate that’s completely chemical-free. It doesn’t mould and absorbs a lot of moisture.

Aspen Shavings

For King Snakes, aspen shavings can be used. As its shavings cannot be cleaned, they must be removed and replaced with new shavings as they become dirty. If you’re using aspen shavings, you may scoop out the urine and excrement with a cat litter scoop and replace it with fresh aspen as needed. Remove any soiled substrate as soon as possible; urine-soaked material may serve as a breeding ground for bacteria, potentially harming your King Snake. You must feed your snake in a secure environment if you use this type of substrate; you do not want it to consume any of the shavings.

Newspaper

For years, animal keepers have used layers of newspaper. When multiple layers are utilised, it is relatively absorbent and affordable to replace. The inks used in printing, on the other hand, are known to be toxic to animals. Unprinted sheets are available from moving supply stores, and roll ends are available from some newspaper companies. When multiple sheets are used, it is relatively absorbent, similar to printed newspaper, especially when layered with paper towels. Unprinted sheets and rolls, unlike printed newspaper, are free of potentially toxic inks that could injure your King Snake.

Beech Chippings

Beech Chippings are widely accessible at most reptile stores and make for a beautiful vivarium substrate. It’s available in three sizes i.e. small, medium, and large, so you may pick the one that’s right for your snake. Although it is not as absorbent as Aspen, it allows for spot cleaning. Burrowing snakes do not prefer it as a substrate.

Astroturf / Artificial Grass

The first artificial grass floor covering was Astroturf. Since then, carpet producers have released a variety of artificial grass grades. In most hardware stores, there are two or more grades. The cheapest option is usually the best to use. It’s more adaptable, which is important for complete cleaning and disinfection. Pieces can be washed and disinfected multiple times before needing to be replaced. Astroturf® is affordable enough that several pieces for each enclosure can be cut and rotated every cleaning day. Many pet shops and mail order pet suppliers sell fake grass substrate in small, packed pieces that are identical to the stuff found in building supply stores.

Conclusion

One of the snake species that can be kept as pets is the gray-banded kingsnake. They don’t get very big, and they’re usually simple to feed. These harmless snakes are not venomous and pose no threat to people.

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

July 23, 2021July 23, 2021 by user 0

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Gopher Snake

Gopher snakes are from the western coast of America and they are fairly large snakes. Gopher snakes are very curious and active snakes. They are perfect pets for beginning caretakers. They are generally found on the western coast of America in arid meadows, fields and farmland.

Behaviour
Temperature Requirements
Humidity
Lighting
Diet
Handling
Housing
Cleaning
Substrate Nature
Substrate Type
Conclusion

Behaviour

They have quite a narrow head and are a little heavier than other snakes of the same species. They’re usually beige or light yellow in colour, with black or dark brown stripes spanning the length of the snake. These snakes can live upto 25 years with prior care, without care and all their living margins at 15 years. In captivity, they have an average lifespan of 20 to 25 years. They rarely live past 15 years in the wild, with a lifespan of 12 to 15 years. With these snakes, you need to be sure and committed before acquiring one as they live long.

Temperature Requirements

As a western coast American snake, the Gopher snake doesn’t need high temperatures to thrive. They require a temperature of about 79 F. A basking spot is necessary when it comes to Gopher snakes. The temperature of the basking place might reach 85 degrees F. The warm spots are supposed to be at the end of the enclosure, which creates a gradient in temperature where the temperature drops as the snake moves away from the basking spot. The warm end of the enclosure will be around 85 degrees Fahrenheit, while the cool end will be around 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Heating mats or ceramic bulbs can be used to keep the area warm.

Humidity

Because the Gopher snake thrives at regular room humidity between 40% and 60%, there is no need to mist the enclosure or provide a humidifier. The only time they’ll need a lot of water is when they’re shedding. A humid box which is a hide box with a moist substrate like damp paper towels, can aid in the snake’s shedding.

It is essential to provide clean water to the snake at all times. This water should preferably be chlorine-free. The water bowl must be hefty and solid to prevent the snake from tipping it over and spilling the contents. The water should be changed on a regular basis to ensure that it is always clean and free of faeces and other foreign stuff.

Lighting

Since the Gopher snake eats whole prey such as rodents, they do not need vitamin D3 supplements or UVB lights. They get all of their nutrition from the rodents they eat. You must maintain a day-night cycle. There is no need for lighting if the enclosure is put in a room that gets plenty of natural light.

If the enclosure does not get any natural light, you can use fluorescent lighting to illuminate it. The light needs to be on for 12 hours and off for 2 hours.

Diet

Gopher snakes have ferocious appetites. In captivity, they feed readily and grow quickly. For the first month of their lives, you can feed two or three pink mice every four days. For about five months, you move them up to two fuzzy mice twice a week and then to hopper mice twice a week for the next six months. The snake should reach close to 3 feet long after a year and capable of eating one or two adult mice or smaller rats once a week. Instead of many mice, one mid-sized to large rat may be provided each week in the second and third years, as the snakes attain sexual maturity.

Handling

Gopher snakes are usually curious creatures, active in their daytime and will roam around to explore new things in their surroundings. Most are completely calm and don’t make a fuss when they’re being handled. Gophers rarely bite in defence, although they do have small teeth and are capable. Hatchlings are very sensitive, but most snakes calm down with regular handling over time.

When held, they tend to stay active, but you may keep them in place by switching hands underneath them as they move. As they aren’t always the finest climbers, make care to support their weight for them, and avoid handling them while they’re in the shed or after a meal.

Housing

When it reaches adulthood, the gopher snake can grow to be fairly enormous. Specimens up to 7′ in length are not rare. As a result, you’ll need a cage that’s the right size for your snake. A baby or juvenile can be kept in a smaller terrarium. An adult Gopher snake should require a 4’ x 2’ size cage or larger. You have to clean the entire cage at least once a month. Clean all the feces daily and remove the shed skin.

Cleaning

To thrive, Gopher snakes require a clean environment. A spot in the cage should be cleaned every day and the full cage should be cleaned every 4 weeks. If you are keeping the snake in a bio-active enclosure you can spot, clean and monitor the enclosure. It can be a good item to change out the bedding a few times per year.

Substrate Nature

Because the Gopher snake prefers dry environments, you won’t have to worry about maintaining a high level of humidity. As a result, a moisture-retaining substrate is not required. Old newspaper or paper towels make wonderful substrates for newborns and juveniles. They are cheap, accessible, and easy to clean/change. Adults do well on paper as well. The biggest disadvantage of paper is that it is unattractive.

Calcium sand is another wonderful option. When consumed, unlike real sand, it does not cause compaction. It also adds to the enclosure’s beauty by resembling desert sand.

Also, aspen bedding, corn cob granules, coconut chipping or cypress mulch are good bedding options. In fact, any substrate can be used apart from cedar or pine since these are toxic to snakes. The snake may burrow into the substrate if it is only a few inches deep.

Substrate Type

Coconut Husk

Coconut Husk is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

· Highly comfortable material for snakes

· Odor and Dust free

· Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

· Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

· Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Cypress mulch is a comfortable substrate for snakes. They can dig around in the mulch and it retains humidity nicely. It’s attractive and has a pleasant but not overwhelming smell. This mulch is cheap and readily available at garden shops. You do have to remove all the mulch to thoroughly clean the cage.

Advantages:

· Retain moisture

· It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

· Costly

· Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Newspaper and paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. Paper towels can work superior for small cages. It is versatile and it can be placed on the bottom of the cage. Newborn snakes love newspapers. Adults can’t easily burrow in newspapers, but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Wet or damp newspapers and paper towels can cause skin infection in the snakes. To avoid these, replace wet newspapers with fresh newspapers.

Advantages:

· It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

· It is affordable.

· It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

· Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

· Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings are inexpensive, easy to replace, and aesthetically pleasing. Snakes are also really simple to burrow through. Furthermore, aspen shavings allow for good ventilation in the cage. Keep in mind that if the chips are too small, the yellow rat snake is more likely to swallow them whole while feeding. If you are using this bedding then feed your snakes outside of the enclosure.

Advantages:

· It is not too expensive.

· Snakes are easily burrowed in it.

· It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

· It needs to change completely more often.

Sand

For Gopher snakes, sand is a more appealing substrate than newspaper or paper towels. It comes in a range of hues to match your decor design and may be purchased at pet stores. It makes a beautiful enclosure and creates a dessert look. Snakes may burrow in sand, but if the sand is consumed, it will harm your snake.

Advantages:

· Create beautiful and attractive enclosure.

· Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Disadvantages:

· It is bad for your snake if the sand is swallowed.

Conclusion

Gopher snakes usually learn to trust people over time and most aren’t shy about exploring your world or demanding food. That behaviour is what makes gopher snakes one of the most engaging snakes to keep!

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

July 21, 2021July 27, 2021 by user 0

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Rattlesnake

Rattlesnakes have unique behaviours that make it a very good pet besides the fact that its bright green colours are a sight to see.

The rattlesnake has a triangular shaped head and is a heavy bodied snake. On each side of its face, there are two dark diagonal lines starting from its eyes to its jaws. There are dark diamond-shaped patterns on its back. Just above the rattles, there are black and white bands on its tail.

Behaviour
Temperature Requirements
Humidity
Lighting
Cleaning
Diet
Substrate Nature
Substrate Type

Behaviour

Rattlesnake is an extremely arboreal reptile by nature, so it spends its entire day on top of a branch or an elevated spot. When it is hunting or when it needs to drink water, it goes down to the ground because this reptile is somewhat shy and feels safe on top of a branch or any other similar elevated spot in its enclosure.

Rattlesnake is one of the largest members of anole species and their overall size is usually upto 1.5 feet long. The Western Diamondback Rattlesnake has a lifespan of about 8 to 12 years. Most Western Diamondback Rattlesnakes that live under human control usually live an average of about 8.3 years. As long as they are given the proper care and nutrition, these reptiles can live for more than 12 years.

Temperature Requirements

Environments that are warm and tropical are preferred by Rattlesnakes. Use lighting sources such as a UVB lamp or an incandescent heat lamp to provide your reptile with the heat or warmth it needs. Temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees should be there in the coldest portion of the entire enclosure. For achieving this temperature UVB lamp should be beneficial because it does not produce a lot of heat.

However, because the Rattlesnake wants a basking place after eating, there should be a fairly hot portion in the enclosure. The temperature in the enclosure’s warmest section should be between 95 and 100 degrees. This hot spot is most likely directly beneath the heat lamp, as that is where the most of the heat it produces should be.

Humidity

When it comes to humidity, Rattlesnakes demand a humid environment with humidity levels ranging from 50% to 80%. To reach these humidity levels, mist the snake’s enclosure with water on a frequent basis. As a result, the habitat might remain moist and humid. The best technique to provide the Rattlesnake with the water it requires for drinking is to mist it. A water dish can also keep humidity levels up, even if it doesn’t serve many uses in terms of your snake’s hydration needs. The simplest way to tell if the enclosure is humid is to look at the substrate and see if it remains damp or moist.

Lighting

If you want to provide good lighting to your Rattlesnake then there are two types of lights available. The first should be a UVB light that gives your snake vitamin D3. This permits it to better digest calcium, lowering the chances of it developing metabolic bone disease. Another type of light in the enclosure should be a strong heat lamp that supplies the majority of the light and heat. The main aim of a heat lamp is to maintain a natural light schedule for your snake.

Cleaning

For keeping your Rattlesnake away from harmful illness or health problems it is important to provide clean and sanitary habitat. Whenever you find faeces or anything nasty, make sure to spot clean the enclosure. However, once a month, properly clean the habitat to kill off germs, moulds, and other hazardous microorganisms. You may make a sanitizing solution with water and vinegar.

Diet

Rattlesnakes eat a wide variety of prey, including lizards, frogs, and rodents of many kinds. Mice and rats are eaten by tiny individuals, while squirrels and small rabbits are eaten by adults. It usually does not contain large parasite burdens, unlike some other rattlesnake species, though all specimens should be tested by a qualified veterinarian. Wormers and other drugs will be administered through the diet.

Substrate Nature

Rattlesnake rarely spends time on the ground due to its arboreal nature, you should provide a decent substrate in its enclosure to act as bedding and to keep things moist. Cypress mulch is a good choice since it maintains moisture effectively, but newspapers or coco fibre are other good options. Use of fertilised garden soil sparingly since it may hurt the Rattlesnake if it swallows it accidently while feeding.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre

Coconut fibre is extremely light, easy to clean, and attractive. On the other hand, it is more expensive than alternative substrates. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

· Highly comfortable material for snakes

· Odor and Dust free

· Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

· Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

· Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Cypress shavings

Advantages:

· Retain moisture

· It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

· Costly

· Mites thrive in cypress mulch

Newspaper and paper towel

Advantages:

· It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

· It is affordable.

· It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

· Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

· Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

The Rattlesnake is quite simple to care for in terms of maintenance. Rattlesnake does not like to be handled, they are not the best pets for beginners who enjoy handling their reptiles. Be careful while handling Rattlesnakes, they may bite you because of their shy tendencies. Proper diet and right enclosure must be provided to the snake for their health.

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

July 20, 2021July 20, 2021 by user 0

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Yellow Rat Snake

The yellow rat snakes can be found in the wild from southeastern South Carolina to Florida’s southern tip. The yellow rat snake is the southeastern representative of black rat snake. Once they’ve been accustomed to being handled and you’ve become used to dealing, yellow rat snakes make excellent pets.

Yellow rat snakes are attractive animals that come in a range of colours and experience significant colour changes as they age. In the wild, they are a powerful constrictor that can easily overcome its prey of rodents and the rare bird.

Behaviour
Temperature Requirements
Humidity
Diet
Housing
Breeding
Handling
Substrate Nature
Substrate Type
Conclusion:

Behaviour

Yellow rat snakes are non-venomous. Yellow rat snakes are nocturnal creatures that are most active at night time, from dusk until late at night/early in the morning. Yellow rat snakes may prefer to hunt during the day or at night, depending on their location.

Apart from their hunting preferences, the habits and behaviour of yellow rat snakes do greatly depend on where they originate from. For instance, yellow rat snakes found in the south are known to be more aggressive than those inhabiting the northern regions.

Yellow rat snakes normally grow to be 5 to 7 feet long, while they have been known to grow to be as long as ten feet.

A yellow rat snake can live for 17 to 20 years in captivity.

Temperature Requirements

Yellow stripe rat snakes require a warm basking spot during the day. They require warmer temperatures of 85-degree F to 90-degree F. Yellow stripe rat snakes need a little drop in temperature and complete darkness at night. The night time temperature should be 80-degree F. A clear spot bulb at one end of the terrarium is used to achieve this temperature. Also heat mat can be beneficial. It is important that the temperature should always be controlled by a high quality thermostat. The thermostat will automatically turn on at night when the temperature in the vivarium drops. A thermometer should be used to check the temperature on a daily basis.

Humidity

As far as humidity levels are concerned, yellow rat snakes. Humidity levels of 40% to 50% are ideal for keeping a yellow rat snake as a pet. By simply placing a large water bowl within the cage, these levels can be easily achieved. You can use a mister or a fogger if you observe that humidity levels are decreasing below 40% despite having placed a large water bowl inside the tank. To maintain proper humidity, use a pump sprayer every four days with five to ten pumps.

Diet

It is simple to feed a yellow rat snake. Adult yellow rat snakes eat rats, rodents and chicks. Young yellow rat snakes may prefer tree frogs and lizards for their first several meals. For hatchlings you can feed them pinky mice.

Despite the fact that rat snakes can swallow huge prey, they can regurgitate a hefty meal due to temperature changes or fear. The largest meal you serve your snake should not be larger than its head diameter.

Even domesticated yellow rat snakes can bite at feeding time, so be cautious while approaching them. Avoid offering live food to your snake as a live rodent can hurt or even kill your snake. It is best to feed the snake’s deceased prey.

Housing

The enclosure for yellow stripe rat snakes is a wooden vivarium. This is because wood is a good heat insulator, therefore a wooden vivarium will make it easier to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. Glass terrariums, for example, are significantly too efficient in releasing heat. To allow air to move in and out of the cage, the wooden vivarium should have adequate ventilation.

As Yellow rat snakes are large in size, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long. To live happily, they require a comparable quantity of room. A suitable length of vivarium is required to allow for the establishment of a temperature gradient. The enclosure should be warm at one end and cool at the other, with enough distance between them for the temperature to drop.

Breeding

If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. You do not need to do anything to encourage this, provided they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. A gravid female should be able to lay her eggs in a nesting box. The box should be spacious enough for her to spin around completely within. To keep the box damp and humid, you can use moss.

Incubate the eggs at 84 degrees Fahrenheit in an incubator. To keep the humidity around the eggs, we incubate them in enclosed boxes on a moist substrate. The eggs will begin to hatch after around 60 days, and the first babies to emerge will urge the rest of the eggs to hatch.

Handling

The rules for handling a yellow rat snake are patience, persistence, and care, at least if you don’t want to get bitten. Snakes usually react defensively to quick motion, but they tolerate slow motion. They are normally suspicious of movement above them, but not so much of movement from the side.

Do not hold your snake’s neck with your hands. Instead, place one hand about a third of the way back from the head and the other a quarter of the way forward from the tail tip under it. Lift the snake carefully while holding it loosely. Always keep it away from your face.

Do not lift them for a few days after they have eaten. You may train your snake to accept handling without biting it. When you’re trying to get your yellow rat snake acclimated to being handled, gently lift it once or twice a day until it gets the hang of it. Allow your snake to calm down before attempting again.

Substrate Nature

Yellow rat snakes enjoy exploring their surroundings as much as burrowing. You should choose a substrate that allows these playful serpents to follow their natural tendencies while also being hypoallergenic and simple to clean and maintain. There are a number of substrate suits for your pet snake. Aspen shaving is one of the most popular options. Coconut fiber is natural and chemical free bedding for your snake. Newspapers are fairly reliable for snakes. Must avoid cedar and pine bedding as they are toxic to snakes.

Substrate Type

Coconut fibre

Advantages:

· Highly comfortable material for snakes

· Odor and Dust free

· Natural and Organic material

Disadvantages:

· Doesn’t retain humidity much longer

· Large pieces of husk can cause irritation

Newspaper

Newspapers provide an easily replaceable, low-cost substrate that the snake can burrow and dig through. On the drawback, newspapers absorb both must and feces, resulting in a stench that lingers in the tank if the substrate is not changed as soon as possible. When it comes to juvenile yellow rat snakes, newspapers should be replaced even more regularly, as juveniles have been known to musk at even the little threat.

Advantages:

· It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

· It is affordable.

· It is more suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

· Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

· Wet or damp newspaper can cause skin infection for snakes.

Aspen shavings

Advantages:

· It is not too expensive.

· Snakes are easily burrowed in it.

· It does an excellent job in absorbing odour.

Disadvantages:

· It needs to change completely more often.

Conclusion:

Yellow rat snakes are non-venomous and they are truly attractive species. Once they’ve been accustomed to being handled and you’ve become used to dealing, yellow rat snakes make excellent pets.

Lifestyle Pets Bedding Snake Bedding

July 17, 2021July 17, 2021 by user 0

A Guide on Pet Snake Caring – Burmese Python

One of the largest snakes to slither on this Earth is the Burmese Python. They are mostly found in southeast Asia and span across Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and southeastern China. Burmese Python make an excellent pet because of their docile nature and undemanding requirements.

Behaviour
Size and Longevity
- Burmese Python Growth Chart
Temperature Requirements
Humidity
Lighting
Handling
Housing
Cleaning
Diet
Breeding
Substrate Nature
Substrate Types
Conclusion

Behaviour

Burmese Python snakes are stunning creatures with brown and black patterns. They are popular for their attractive appearance, as well as their large size and a calm nature. They are great pets for the right owners. They are however unsuitable for beginners and are better left in the wild. They’re large snakes that are both costly to keep and potentially dangerous. You have to make sure that you have enough space to keep Burmese Python. Owner needs to be very careful when handling Burmese Python, owners have died due to mishandling these kinds of snakes.

Size and Longevity

Burmese Pythons are one of the largest python species in the world. Generally, females are larger than males and they can grow up to 15 feet. Males are somewhat smaller and more slightly built. In captivity, some Burmese pythons have grown to be over 20 feet long and weigh well over 200 pounds. With proper care these snakes can live well over 20 years. There are some reports of specimens living nearly 40 years.

Burmese Python Growth Chart

Age	Size	Weight
Hatchlings	10-30 inches	100-115 grams
3 months	16-40 inches	190-650 grams
9 months	40-50 inches	570-780 grams

Temperature Requirements

Burmese pythons are typically tropical species, it is important to keep these snakes warmer. These snakes require a basking spot of 31 to 33°C with a thermal gradient fading to about 28°C at the cooler end of the enclosure. To maintain this temperature you can use basking lights, infrared bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heating pads.

Humidity

Burmese Pythons humidity should be around 50-60% which can be increased whilst shedding. When they are shedding, a regular misting with tepid water can be provided. A 20-to-30-minute soak in warm water during shedding may also be beneficial to your snake. You can provide a water bowl in a cage but make sure they always have clean water. Hand misting is usually beneficial. If you maintain a humidity level of around 65%, your snake will be able to shed in a healthy way.

Lighting

Burmese Python are tropical species so it is important that they are kept properly warm. During the day, cage temperatures should be in the mid-80s and at night, that should not be lower than 80. During the day, specific basking locations within the enclosure should reach or slightly surpass 95 degrees. Make sure the enclosure has a thermal gradient, with one end warmer than the other, giving the snake a range of temperatures to choose from depending on its demands at any given time.

For Burmese python, no special lighting is required but basic fluorescent bulbs or any heat bulb that gives visible light in addition to heat can be used during the day.

Handling

Usually, Burmese Pythons are large in size. Smaller pythons can be handled freely, but it is recommended that snakes over 6 feet should never be handled alone. When a snake reaches the length of 8 feet, at least two people should be present when it is out. While these animals are usually gentle, they are still unpredictable and powerful. Large snakes over 10 feet should never be handled with less than 3 people. Always keep in mind that mishandling such a massive and powerful creature might lead to disaster.

Housing

Hatchling Burmese Python can be kept in small cages, secure tubs with a hide on one side and a water bowl on the other. But adults require a lot of room space. For male Burmese Python needs an enclosure size of 6ftx2ftx2ft and females will most likely need an 8ftx3ftx2ft enclosure. Burmese pythons are extremely powerful snakes that require a very secure housing. If glass is used in the enclosure, thick laminate glass is recommended as a minimum, with toughened glass being preferred. This will take time and money, so consider your options carefully before purchasing one of these creatures.

Cleaning

Maintain proper temperature, daylight hours and a good nesting location to keep your Python healthy. Cleaning is essential to prevent health problems. Good husbandry and hygiene can be helpful for keeping your snake healthy. Make sure that you keep the enclosure clean. Clean the cage on a regular basis and replace the water. Don’t let the tank’s size deter you from cleaning it!

Burmese Pythons usually defecate 8-14 days after eating and their faeces should be brown and solid. You should take advantage of this opportunity to clean the area more thoroughly and replace the substrate. Their massive cage needs a consistent cleaning routine.

Diet

Snakes should be given defrosted rodent prey of proper size. You can feed them mice, rats and rabbits. Food for Burmese Pythons should be large enough to leave a visible lump in the snake’s belly. Must avoid live food. Newborn Burmese Pythons can eat fuzzy rats or adult mice for first feed. You can feed them every 5 to 7 days a week. As they grow you can increase the size of prey. Adult snakes require a large meal every 4 to 5 weeks to avoid becoming overweight.

Breeding

You do not need to do anything to encourage this, provided they are healthy and the conditions are good, it will happen naturally. If you keep a male and female together, they may breed. A gravid female should be able to lay her eggs in a nesting box. The box should be wide enough for her to spin around completely within. To keep the box damp and humid, you can use moss.

Incubate the eggs at 84^o Fahrenheit in an incubator. To keep the humidity around the eggs, we incubate them in enclosed boxes on a moist substrate. The eggs will begin to hatch after around 60 days, and the first babies to emerge will urge the rest of eggs to hatch.

Substrate Nature

There are a wide range of substrates available for Burmese Pythons. The bedding should be one that is easy to clean and helpful for maintaining humidity levels. Newspaper is absorbent, fairly sterile and readily available. Various woods, shavings and shredded substrate products are acceptable too, although they tend to foul in moist environments. Paper is also an option as it is cheap, easy to clean and hygienic. Aspen shaving or cypress shaving is your best option, being fairly cheap and pleasant looking. Pine and cedar shaving must be avoided as they are toxic to snakes.

Substrate Types

Aspen shavings

Aspen shavings make a good substrate for your snake. You can use these shavings with smaller snakes and those that don’t need high humidity. It is soft and comfortable pet bedding. It is super absorbent, chemical free, 100% safe and natural paper bedding. This bedding easily gets moldy. Too much moisture can cause material particles to get under a large snake’s belly scales, causing irritation.

Advantages:

• Affordable.

• Excellent absorbing and clean-up.

• Snakes like to burrow in this.

Disadvantages:

• May need to be changed more often.

• It easily gets moldy.

Cypress Shavings

Cypress Mulch is slightly similar to the Aspen shaving. It is made up of small pieces of wood. It looks attractive and helps to create a natural looking enclosure. It helps to retain moisture. It does not mold easily. Snakes can easily burrow in it.

Advantages:

• It retains moisture.

• It doesn’t mold.

Disadvantages:

• It is an expensive bedding option.

• Mites thrive in cypress mulch.

Coconut Husk

Coconut husk bedding is a completely natural and organic bedding material for your snakes. It is an easily available and low-cost alternative. It helps absorb the odor and locks within the substrate. It is a dust free substrate which is absolutely chemical-free and non-toxic. It doesn’t mold and is very moisture absorbent.

Advantages:

· Highly comfortable material for snakes.

· Odor and Dust free.

· Natural and Organic material.

Disadvantages:

· Doesn’t retain humidity much longer.

· Large pieces of husk can cause irritation.

Newspaper and Paper towel

Newspapers covers are easy as well as cheap. For small cages, paper towels can work superior. It’s versatile and you can place the newspaper on the bottom of the cage. It’s not easy to burrow in a newspaper but shredded paper will resolve the issue. Remove wet or damp newspapers and paper towels, as these can cause skin infections in the snakes.

Advantages:

· It is affordable.

· It is one of the most versatile bedding options.

· More suitable for hatchings.

Disadvantages:

· Adult snakes can’t easily burrow in newspapers.

· Wet or damp newspapers can cause skin irritation for snakes.

Conclusion

Burmese pythons are enormous, gorgeous snakes that can be handled if help is always available while handling adult specimens. This species is docile in general and makes excellent pets. With the exception of feeding time, they are usually slow-moving snakes. If they are not handled or dealt with priority, it can be dangerous.

Author: user

What We Like About Green Iguanas:

Pros:

Cons:

Appearance

Handling

Captive Environment

Cleaning & Misting

Lighting & temperatures

Humidity and Water Requirements

Green Iguana Food

Green Iguana Substrate

Coconut fiber

Newspaper

Artificial Grass Patch

Fun facts about the green iguana

Behaviour

Humidity, Heating & Lighting

What do bearded dragons eat?

Water for bearded dragon

How can I keep my bearded dragon healthy?

Interesting facts about Bearded Dragons

Substrate for Bearded Dragons

Coconut Husk

Calcium sand and Playground sand

Cage Carpet

Newspaper

Facts about lizards

Which lizards are good pets?

Why choose LEOPARD GECKOS?

Significance

Behavior

Fun Facts

How do you groom your pet lizard?

1 Habitat Maintenance

2 Care and Hygiene

3 Diet and Feeding schedule

4 Housing and Substrate

Carpet Liner

Calci Sand

General health Issue

Behaviour

Temperature

Lighting

Humidity

Cleaning

Handling

Diet

Substrate

Conclusion

Temperature and Lighting

Housing

Diet and Nutrition

Handling and Safety

Cleaning

Common health issues

Enclosure

Substrate

Conclusion

Table of contents

Behaviour

Temperature Requirements

Humidity

Lighting

Handling

Cleaning

Diet

Potential Health Issue

Mites

Respiratory Infections

Regurgitation

Substrate Nature

Substrate Type

Aspen Shavings

Newspaper

Beech Chippings

Astroturf / Artificial Grass

Conclusion

Table of contents

Behaviour